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Re: Felder 500-03-019 dado blade how to use

 

Thanks I thought so. I never pulled it out of the box until today. I bought it thinking that 15 was the same as 3/4¡±. Lol Then I realize I needed the other one that is $299 additional. More money so I just put it on the shelf. I Thought I would try it today and now I will put back in the box. I will call Felder Monday. Thanks for your help.


Re: Felder 500-03-019 dado blade how to use

 

Should be a shim set with it to get you out to 15mm...

Mine came with an assortment of .1, .2, .5, 1 & 2mm shims... I think 9 or 10 in total.


Felder 500-03-019 dado blade how to use

 

I bought the dado blade 3 years ago and just went to use it but I did not get any shims, not sure it should have them. Been on line and see shims but no real instructions. I only bought the 8-15 mm. Does anyone have paper instructions. I must be getting old. Lol It is supposed to be adjustable. If I leave it together I get the 8mm. I think it might be an easy answer. ? Thanks Doug


Re: Used KF700 year 200 price check

 

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Hi Imran,

If you get a chance could you please send a photo of: ¡°?Similarly, there is a plastic piece that attaches to the rectangular bottom of the saw blade dust shoot and allows a round dust hose connection.¡±

I have a KF700 from 2001 I bought used and am now wondering if that might be missing on mine.?

Thanks much,
Joseph


On Mar 5, 2021, at 11:05 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
Stephen,

Thought of couple more things. Looks for plastic dust shield in the shaper opening. Mine is clear plastic. This is easy to ruin if one accidentally lowers a large cutter head. Similarly, there is a plastic piece that attaches to the rectangular bottom of the saw blade dust shoot and allows a round dust hose connection.

At minimum you should have the euro guard that mounts to the riving knife for dust collection. Not sure if the overhead dust collection was available at that time.

Verify electric brake works.

My shaper came with a steel pressure plate that keeps wood against shaper fence and a rubber hold down. Also nice is the micro adjust on shaper. Not as critical but I did use the micro adjust on my rip fence as well.

A tilt bracket is also nice to have if you are interested in power feeder.

Imran?

On Mar 5, 2021, at 8:39 AM, Stephen Zielke <tseelkah@...> wrote:

?Hello - I've been reading a few posts and topics to research the ins and outs of used Felder machinery (I own all kinds of brands, almost always used, incl. a Hammer A31, Minimax, Rojek and Powermatic). I've found a locally available used KF700, year 2000. I would call it's condition "fair" - it's been sitting for 2 years unused, and is on it's 3rd owner. Covered in dust inside and out. It would be a step up to a format slider from my 1990's era Rojek KPF300, with its solid guide rail and small cast iron outrigger table and simple shaper.

Pro's - tilting and reverse shaper functions would be new to me (Rojek is vertical and forward only), format slider, both motors and power functions operate, slider rolls well, everything is nominally flat, the shaper spindle and saw arbor both run true with no wobble (like maybe 1/1000). No rust, just fair amount of scratches and dust.

Con's - missing a few accessory items, older F mount and non X-roll table era, only one spindle, no shaper parts except the basic fence, and the whopper, 3 phase 5.5 KW (7.5hp) - this last one involves $1300 to purchase a RPC since I have single phase. 40-50 amp breaker will use half my shop power. Only 80" slider, I have been searching for 98"+ for about a year (to replace the 60" Rojek, to have more sheet good processing capacity). I find several local 10' sliders? - without the shaper function - on Craigslist each month, but the 8' size seems to be a unicorn.

The $3500 seems like an almost fair price for a "needs TLC" machine, although the RPC means it's closer to $5k before selling the Rojek. That's still under half price compared to new.

Thoughts on this price, for this era of machine - just about right, or too high?

thanks.


Re: New K940S issues

 

Just my opinion but neither seem issues that are reasonable scratches or knicks on a new machine.? If indeed the repair to the table is truly as involved as has been suggested, only imagining what tolerances would have to be accomplished assembling one, I¡¯d be asking for a new ¡°part¡± (i.e. table.? Either swapped out or factory repaired).

New means new.? Seems the liability should be either with the company¡¯s packaging or the shipper. ?

On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 10:38 AM AJ Quinter <ajquinter@...> wrote:
I posted here a little while back about an opportunity I had to purchase several Felder tools (lightly used saw, planer, jointer, dust collector, etc.).? It seemed like a great deal, but unfortunately things fell apart quickly when I stipulated in the bill of sale that the seller had to confirm that he was the legal owner of the equipment, free of liens or other encumbrances.

After that deal fell apart, I ended up ordering a new K940S with a 126" sliding table.? I have never owned a sliding table saw and although I own David Best's excellent survival guide, decided to have the machine commissioned by a Felder technician.

I received the saw and a couple of issues came up during the commissioning.? The outrigger and fence extrusions were packed with the sliding table.? During shipping these extrusions scratched the insulating tape on the underside of the sliding table.? The damage did not look like a big deal at the time.?

When the entire commissioning process was finished, I made a test cut and the stop button on the sliding table did not work (the start button worked fine).? Justin, the technician, indicated that the start button works with radio frequency, but the stop button works by conducting electricity through the sliding rails themselves.? The rails must need to be isolated in some manner to prevent the signal from shorting out to the machine base.? He indicated that the scratched insulating tape could be the issue (he tried fixing this with electrical tape, but didn't succeed), or it could be a damaged insulating coating on one of the many, many screws in the sliding table assembly.? He indicated that this was definitely a warranty issue.? He would need to come back and completely disassemble the sliding table to try to fix the problem.??

I am not at all thrilled with this idea!? Although Justin seemed very competent, I don't like the idea of someone disassembling and reassembling the factory assembled sliding table on site.? Obviously, this component is really the critical precision element on the whole machine.? I don't have clean space, fixtures, etc. for this operation to take place.? I am also quite concerned that when finished (and with my luck) nothing will be resolved!? Further, I am not thrilled about someone coming in and upending my shop for several days with this process.

One of the other issues I had is the wire connection between the sliding table and main saw cracked during installation.? Justin indicated that this was a relatively common issue, but obviously not ideal.? He checked in the electrical panel and indicated that there were no issues with functionality relating to the cracked connection.??

I would love to get some feedback from all of you regarding these issues.? How would you proceed?? What would you try to get Felder to do to remedy the situation?? How big of a deal is it that the stop button on the sliding table doesn't work???

Thanks so much for your help and opinions!


??


New K940S issues

 

I posted here a little while back about an opportunity I had to purchase several Felder tools (lightly used saw, planer, jointer, dust collector, etc.).? It seemed like a great deal, but unfortunately things fell apart quickly when I stipulated in the bill of sale that the seller had to confirm that he was the legal owner of the equipment, free of liens or other encumbrances.

After that deal fell apart, I ended up ordering a new K940S with a 126" sliding table.? I have never owned a sliding table saw and although I own David Best's excellent survival guide, decided to have the machine commissioned by a Felder technician.

I received the saw and a couple of issues came up during the commissioning.? The outrigger and fence extrusions were packed with the sliding table.? During shipping these extrusions scratched the insulating tape on the underside of the sliding table.? The damage did not look like a big deal at the time.?

When the entire commissioning process was finished, I made a test cut and the stop button on the sliding table did not work (the start button worked fine).? Justin, the technician, indicated that the start button works with radio frequency, but the stop button works by conducting electricity through the sliding rails themselves.? The rails must need to be isolated in some manner to prevent the signal from shorting out to the machine base.? He indicated that the scratched insulating tape could be the issue (he tried fixing this with electrical tape, but didn't succeed), or it could be a damaged insulating coating on one of the many, many screws in the sliding table assembly.? He indicated that this was definitely a warranty issue.? He would need to come back and completely disassemble the sliding table to try to fix the problem.??

I am not at all thrilled with this idea!? Although Justin seemed very competent, I don't like the idea of someone disassembling and reassembling the factory assembled sliding table on site.? Obviously, this component is really the critical precision element on the whole machine.? I don't have clean space, fixtures, etc. for this operation to take place.? I am also quite concerned that when finished (and with my luck) nothing will be resolved!? Further, I am not thrilled about someone coming in and upending my shop for several days with this process.

One of the other issues I had is the wire connection between the sliding table and main saw cracked during installation.? Justin indicated that this was a relatively common issue, but obviously not ideal.? He checked in the electrical panel and indicated that there were no issues with functionality relating to the cracked connection.??

I would love to get some feedback from all of you regarding these issues.? How would you proceed?? What would you try to get Felder to do to remedy the situation?? How big of a deal is it that the stop button on the sliding table doesn't work???

Thanks so much for your help and opinions!


??


Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks Tom. Good Summary ?

Imran

On Mar 7, 2021, at 9:44 AM, tom@... wrote:

?Hi Imran!?

Yes, based on my research and experience it appears that the following is generally true in terms of Felder/Aigner compatibility:

-- When the Felder table extension mounting bars (TEMB) are installed with the bolts at the bottom of the bars, they are compatible with both Felder and Aigner products
-- When the Felder TEMB are installed with the bolts towards the top of the bar (machines with shallow (less than 40mm tall) aprons, reduced OD spacers will allow for most Felder table extensions, but is still too shallow for Aigner table extensions (the Aigner table extensions and some Felder parts, such as the band saw fence assembly, have a deeper "hook").?
-- The Aigner TEMB are shorter than the Felder TEMB, so the Aigner TEMB will accommodate the 1m Aigner and likely the Felder 1m table extension, but the Aigner TEMB is not tall enough to support the Felder cantilevered table extensions.?

Ultimately, while the Felder bars are triple the cost of the Aigner, they seem to have broader compatibility/versatility. Also, they are a one-time purchase for machines, and they don't wear out, so it's not as though it's an ongoing expense. I've just started incorporating them into the expected purchase price of a given non-Felder machine..... Hope this helps, I'm happy to explain in more detail if desired. ?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: CF531 Electrical Schematic

 

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Blaine,

I found this in files. This may not apply to your yr of manufacture but it does show a dashed line connection to operate w/o brake. I would still call felder to confirm.


Imran

On Mar 7, 2021, at 10:55 AM, Blaine Wright <blaine@...> wrote:

?Thanks Imran.
Yes, I have a manual, but haven¡¯t found schematics in it yet. There is no wiring diagram on the panel door, and we haven¡¯t been able to bypass the brake controller yet, but will have another go later today..
I¡¯ll call Felder as I¡¯ve read many good accounts of great support they¡¯ve provided to others in this group.
Cheers
Blaine





Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thank Tom, super helpful.

?

From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of tom@...
Sent: Sunday, March 7, 2021 7:44 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Adding fence to bandsaw?

?

Hi Imran!?

Yes, based on my research and experience it appears that the following is generally true in terms of Felder/Aigner compatibility:

-- When the Felder table extension mounting bars (TEMB) are installed with the bolts at the bottom of the bars, they are compatible with both Felder and Aigner products
-- When the Felder TEMB are installed with the bolts towards the top of the bar (machines with shallow (less than 40mm tall) aprons, reduced OD spacers will allow for most Felder table extensions, but is still too shallow for Aigner table extensions (the Aigner table extensions and some Felder parts, such as the band saw fence assembly, have a deeper "hook").?
-- The Aigner TEMB are shorter than the Felder TEMB, so the Aigner TEMB will accommodate the 1m Aigner and likely the Felder 1m table extension, but the Aigner TEMB is not tall enough to support the Felder cantilevered table extensions.?

Ultimately, while the Felder bars are triple the cost of the Aigner, they seem to have broader compatibility/versatility. Also, they are a one-time purchase for machines, and they don't wear out, so it's not as though it's an ongoing expense. I've just started incorporating them into the expected purchase price of a given non-Felder machine..... Hope this helps, I'm happy to explain in more detail if desired. ?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: CF531 Electrical Schematic

 

Thanks Imran.
Yes, I have a manual, but haven¡¯t found schematics in it yet. There is no wiring diagram on the panel door, and we haven¡¯t been able to bypass the brake controller yet, but will have another go later today..
I¡¯ll call Felder as I¡¯ve read many good accounts of great support they¡¯ve provided to others in this group.
Cheers
Blaine


Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?

 

Hi Imran!?

Yes, based on my research and experience it appears that the following is generally true in terms of Felder/Aigner compatibility:

-- When the Felder table extension mounting bars (TEMB) are installed with the bolts at the bottom of the bars, they are compatible with both Felder and Aigner products
-- When the Felder TEMB are installed with the bolts towards the top of the bar (machines with shallow (less than 40mm tall) aprons, reduced OD spacers will allow for most Felder table extensions, but is still too shallow for Aigner table extensions (the Aigner table extensions and some Felder parts, such as the band saw fence assembly, have a deeper "hook").?
-- The Aigner TEMB are shorter than the Felder TEMB, so the Aigner TEMB will accommodate the 1m Aigner and likely the Felder 1m table extension, but the Aigner TEMB is not tall enough to support the Felder cantilevered table extensions.?

Ultimately, while the Felder bars are triple the cost of the Aigner, they seem to have broader compatibility/versatility. Also, they are a one-time purchase for machines, and they don't wear out, so it's not as though it's an ongoing expense. I've just started incorporating them into the expected purchase price of a given non-Felder machine..... Hope this helps, I'm happy to explain in more detail if desired. ?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: #Felder_3phase_Machine_Motor_Currents_KF700_K975_Dual51 #felder_3phase_machine_motor_currents_kf700_k975_dual51

 

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David,

Good point on soft start. In the number I posted both K975 and Dual51 have star-delta start.

Imran

On Mar 6, 2021, at 2:48 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:

?
The three phase higher hp felder motors I've seen are soft start so starting the rpc will be the limitation, not the machines.? I have 110 amps going to the garage shop and can run about 20 hp at the same time and my old motors are generally hard starting.?
Dave


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 1:51 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] #Felder_3phase_Machine_Motor_Currents_KF700_K975_Dual51
?

I thought this might help folks make an informed decision when they have limited power in shop. Actual currents are usually much less than what is listed on the label. All measurements made with motor idling. I made these measurements with a inexpensive clamp meter. I noted maximum current that I saw. Since this is not a true RMS meter a fudge factor of 10% should be sufficient to provide worst case current.

?

KF700 Machine Label. Measured shaper 3KW motor.

Measured Starting 18A. Idling 2.8A. I had previously measured current with a scope on this machine and a peak current of 4A matches the RMS reading I took.

<image003.jpg>

?

K975 Machine Label. Measured saw motor (5.5KW) alone and Saw & Scoring (1.1KW) motors together.

Measured Starting 24A. Saw idling 4A. Saw & Scorer idling 5.7A.

<image005.jpg>

?

Format4 Dual51 Machine Label. 7.35KW motor.

Measured Starting 38A. Idling 6.2A. I had previously measured current with a scope on this machine and a peak current of 10A equates to 7A RMS. So I would suggest using 7A.

<image007.jpg>

?

Hope this is helpful.

?

Imran


Re: #Felder_3phase_Machine_Motor_Currents_KF700_K975_Dual51 #felder_3phase_machine_motor_currents_kf700_k975_dual51

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The three phase higher hp felder motors I've seen are soft start so starting the rpc will be the limitation, not the machines.? I have 110 amps going to the garage shop and can run about 20 hp at the same time and my old motors are generally hard starting.?
Dave


From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 1:51 PM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: [FOG] #Felder_3phase_Machine_Motor_Currents_KF700_K975_Dual51
?

I thought this might help folks make an informed decision when they have limited power in shop. Actual currents are usually much less than what is listed on the label. All measurements made with motor idling. I made these measurements with a inexpensive clamp meter. I noted maximum current that I saw. Since this is not a true RMS meter a fudge factor of 10% should be sufficient to provide worst case current.

?

KF700 Machine Label. Measured shaper 3KW motor.

Measured Starting 18A. Idling 2.8A. I had previously measured current with a scope on this machine and a peak current of 4A matches the RMS reading I took.

?

K975 Machine Label. Measured saw motor (5.5KW) alone and Saw & Scoring (1.1KW) motors together.

Measured Starting 24A. Saw idling 4A. Saw & Scorer idling 5.7A.

?

Format4 Dual51 Machine Label. 7.35KW motor.

Measured Starting 38A. Idling 6.2A. I had previously measured current with a scope on this machine and a peak current of 10A equates to 7A RMS. So I would suggest using 7A.

?

Hope this is helpful.

?

Imran


Re: Used KF700 year 200 price check

 

Hi Steve,

Attached shows what the plastic dust collector "basket" should look like. I
just posted measured currents of motors including 5.5KW and this might help
you in determining your head room.

The only other thing I would say is that I had the KF700 with 78" slider for
17 yrs and it served me fine as I was working and therefore a part time
user. I cut ply with circular or track saw when needed. Once retired I
wanted a dedicated saw, which I have now and KF is a dedicated shaper.

Not sure if that trajectory would work for you. $3500 is not bad even for a
shaper and you may get it for less due to missing items. For use as a
shaper, you have a much better chance of aligning the short slider to near
cast iron height than a longer slider.

Anecdotally, I think 9' (110") slider are more common than 8'. You may have
better luck finding that. Also, clamps (especially pneumatic) are
wonderfully amazing on sliders. Manu of us use two for long rips or ply, so
9' is minimum for that scenario.

Imran

-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Stephen Zielke
Sent: Friday, March 05, 2021 10:43 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Used KF700 year 200 price check

Thanks Patrick & Imran for your thoughts. I was excited to see this saw come
up in the Seattle market local to me, but then found it to be so-so in
person.

It's missing an eccentric clamp, table saw blade guard, and anything for the
shaper beyond a fence: no hold downs or other safety feature items, which I
would have thought an original shaper user would have thought necessary
(even my Rojek has a bundle of different helpers for the shaper). The
current owner only used it as a saw. It seems like the under the table
shaper dust collector "basket" is half broken, unless it's normal that half
the sphere is missing. Only the half connected to the dust tube leading to
the exterior is there, so a lot of chips would fall down onto the
spindle/belt, that seems wrong. Although the exterior of the body says it
can take a high speed spindle, the E-shop part numbers suggest only more
modern ones are stocked. I will have to contact my Felder salesperson. It's
a pretty expensive part, I think I would probably just work a router table
into an outfeed table extension (to utilize the slider) and keep the shaper
for shaper sized cutters. That's what I did with the Rojek.

The outrigger table is all fine and present. Just no eccentric hold down.

The 3 phase is the problem - due to limited power at my subpanel, I talked
to an electrician today. He advised me I should turn off my heat when using
the saw and RPC, or I might blow the main under initial motor loading. No
other tool in the shop exceeds 4.8hp (3.5KW) single phase, and most are
less, so up until now my panel was always ok. It's 80' of difficult conduit
pull, mostly underground, so I won't be upgrading. I know because I did it
all myself when I was younger and more energetic.

I agree about the 80".I was really searching for 98", to just squeak by with
sheet goods. I'm already annoyed on enough occasions with the limits of my
5' saw, and 80" isn't much better. 10' is really common as a used saw, even
5' is somewhat common on the used saw-shaper or 5-in-1 market. But 8' seems
really rare. I think this length issue (along with the RPC) will keep me
looking for a used 8' while I save for another year or so to purchase new.
My used budget is $5-6k at present, and I know new is $8-12k, depending on
make and manuf. So I'm halfway to new.

Great site (and so many more users than the tiny Minimax iogroups!).

Steve


#Felder_3phase_Machine_Motor_Currents_KF700_K975_Dual51 #felder_3phase_machine_motor_currents_kf700_k975_dual51

 
Edited

I thought this might help folks make an informed decision when sizing a phase converter, especially when the single phase power available in the shop is limited.

Actual motor currents are usually much less than what is listed on the machine/motor label, which is typically FLA (Fully Loaded Amps). While it is important to be aware of the in-rush current at motor startup, keep in mind that it only lasts for less than 10mS for a motor running on 60 Hz power. This can be 20x the normal current and it depends upon how hard it is to turn a stationary rotor (this is the locked rotor current spec of the motor). A good example is KF700 below. Shaper with tooling has nearly twice the in-rush vs no tooling.

For sake of completeness, after in-rush current there is still higher than normal current until motor comes up to full speed. These currents are handled by the momentary overload current rating of my 10 HP DPC-A10 (circa 2011) Phase Perfect. This ratings is 150A for 4 seconds and should be sufficient for most 10HP motors. In my user manual 20HP model is rated for 280A and 30HP model for 400A.

You should always consult with the supplier of your converter but in general the in-rush current should be used to check the momentary overload protection of the converter and any fusing needs. Use FLA for sizing the converter and remember that it is very unlikely to experience that current in normal use. This is why I took the measurements. Be aware that in extreme situations compromises are possible.

All measurements made with motor idling. I made these measurements with a inexpensive clamp meter. I noted maximum current that I saw. Since this is not a true RMS meter a fudge factor of 10% should be sufficient to provide worst case current.

KF700 Machine Label. Measured shaper 3KW motor.

Measured Starting 18A. Idling 2.8A. I had previously measured current with a scope on this machine and a peak current of 4A matches the RMS reading I took.

3/20/21 Update. Measured shaper current with Felder 04-2-098 rebate head installed on 30mm spindle. This is a good size steel body cutter at 150mm dia & 51mm cutting height.
Measured Starting 38A. Idling 3.0A.


K975 Machine Label. Measured saw motor (5.5KW) alone and Saw & Scoring (1.1KW) motors together.

Measured Starting 24A. Saw idling 4A. Saw & Scorer idling 5.7A.


Format4 Dual51 Machine Label. 7.35KW motor.

Measured Starting 38A. Idling 6.2A. I had previously measured current with a scope on this machine and a peak current of 10A equates to 7A RMS. So I would suggest using 7A.

Hope this is helpful.

Imran


Router Spindle Compatibility with 240 Hood

 

Guys just piddling around in shop and it occurred to me to check how far back my fence plates go. When I mount the hood in the rear set of holes, the fence plates actually sits behind the centerline of the spindle.



I thought a modification to the micro adjust was required for this. So is it possible that all KF700 are not same?

I know that Aigner fence plates are thicker and from posts definitely sit proud of the spindle center line but I am pretty sure I read here that even felder stock fence plates were also an issue.

It would be good to clarify this for people considering to buy a KF or ones with KF and considering to buy a router spindle.

Imran


Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?

 
Edited

Thanks Tom for the pics. Looks like I can fit the pressure module and extension table if I switch from Aigner to Felder rails.
?
Here is a pic showing ext. table not fitting on Aigner rail.
?
?
The rail is just not wide enough. Maybe Aigner makes them wider and I picked the wrong one. Here is same table on felder rail.
?
?
and Aigner pressure module on the same felder rail
?
?
Imran

On Mar 6, 2021, at 12:00 PM, tom@... wrote:

Hi Joe!?

I added the Felder mounting rails to my little Laguna 14" saw and have been really happy with the utility they've added to the machine.?

<IMG_1108.jpeg>
<IMG_1107.jpeg>
<IMG_1109.jpeg>


The apron on the cast iron top wasn't tall enough to mount the Felder bars in the intended orientation (fasteners in the lower position). Instead, I just bought some stainless spacers on McMaster Carr (smaller OD than the Felder spacers), which give me the clearance necessary for the Felder tables to hook on the rail without interference from the spacers.?

On my Laguna, the blade exits the table out the side, so I've taken to just leaving out the one fastener to ease swapping blades. The photos above are rather old, and don't reflect the smaller OD spacers and removal of the near-side bolt.?

For the in-feed side, I have the Aigner table extension with the round bar adapter and that works fine with my Laguna Driftmaster fence. The Driftmaster is frankly overkill on my saw, so I have the parts on order from Felder for their band saw fence assembly. Once they arrive I'll add a Felder bar to the in-feed side and likely sell the driftmaster, or reserve it for when I eventually add a larger saw.?

Here's the parts breakdown for the Felder band saw fence assembly:?

<Mail Attachment.png>

--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: Adding fence to bandsaw?

 

Hi Joe!?

I added the Felder mounting rails to my little Laguna 14" saw and have been really happy with the utility they've added to the machine.?



The apron on the cast iron top wasn't tall enough to mount the Felder bars in the intended orientation (fasteners in the lower position). Instead, I just bought some stainless spacers on McMaster Carr (smaller OD than the Felder spacers), which give me the clearance necessary for the Felder tables to hook on the rail without interference from the spacers.?

On my Laguna, the blade exits the table out the side, so I've taken to just leaving out the one fastener to ease swapping blades. The photos above are rather old, and don't reflect the smaller OD spacers and removal of the near-side bolt.?

For the in-feed side, I have the Aigner table extension with the round bar adapter and that works fine with my Laguna Driftmaster fence. The Driftmaster is frankly overkill on my saw, so I have the parts on order from Felder for their band saw fence assembly. Once they arrive I'll add a Felder bar to the in-feed side and likely sell the driftmaster, or reserve it for when I eventually add a larger saw.?

Here's the parts breakdown for the Felder band saw fence assembly:?


--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN


Re: zci for k940

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Yea, was planning on getting better footage but the ops manager popped into the area, i mean of all places - the building is huge with hundreds of machines on top of each other and he happened come by this one...

Regards, Mark

On Mar 6, 2021, at 11:36 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?

Thank for clarification Mark. It was hard to see what¡¯s going on ¡­..

?

From: [email protected] On Behalf Of Mark Kessler
Sent: Saturday, March 06, 2021 11:10 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] zci for k940

?

Hi Imran,?

Wire edm is done submerged, the video shown is the cnc¡¯ing after the edm

Regards, Mark

?

?



On Mar 6, 2021, at 10:26 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?

Looking good. I have not seen wire EDM in person but read up some time ago and was under the impression that it is always done submerged. Apparently it can be done with just abundant fluid as well.

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Imran?


On Mar 4, 2021, at 1:56 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

?Quick update for those that are interested on the k940s zci, chips are starting to ?! Should be complete next week...

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Interesting that he used one of our edm¡¯s to rough cut the blanks, guess he wanted to start with some super accurate blanks?, left some interesting accurately cut scraps...



Here is the scoring section being milled in the Hurco...

And a still shot...



Regards, Mark



On Jan 19, 2021, at 11:26 PM, Mark Kessler <mkessler10@...> wrote:

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So I decided I needed a zci for the new k940, thought I would get away without one but here I am... I reached out to David Best as I knew he had made one for the kappa. The k940 saw unit, top casting and 3 plastic segments appear to be the same however I have the LED lights so wasn¡¯t sure if David would be willing to modify his design and if it would be worth the time/cost to do so. After a few back and forth emails David decided to not take it on, a few key dimensions were slightly different and could require a few iterations to get it right which I agreed.?

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David was so kind in allowing me to use his drawings, however after I started to model it and compared it to my parts in hand it wasn¡¯t adding up so I had to abandon the drawings given and just start from scratch from my actual parts.

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So the first task was to model the LED section first as it is the most difficult to work out, then 3d print, check fit and make adjustments (done) After that 3d print all the parts to confirm (tomorrow) and finally have machined in aluminum (tbd)

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The other unknown was how was the LED installed, the only way to find out was to remove it which would obviously void the warranty but after studying the elect schematic and looking at the parts drawings I convinced myself that it was no big deal and easy to fix if I screwed up the LED strip.?

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So here are some progress pics... note, the 3d printed LED section is short due the the 3D printer bed not being long enough, a bolt hole is missing so it is not tight against the cast...

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Below is the auto score feature in action with the as delivered LED section?

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Regards, Mark

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Re: Barn Door Hardware Recommendations

 

These pocket doors came up in discussions a while back





Dave Davies

On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 7:00 AM david@... via <david=[email protected]> wrote:
I¡¯m a big fan of KN Crowder products.? Here is a link to there barn door systems: ?

You may or may not like the esthetics of the Crowder choices - they all hide the track and roller mechanisms. ?

If you prefer the more rustic and exposed mechanism hardware, I know several people who have been happy with the products sold by this outfit: ?

David Best







On Mar 6, 2021, at 4:47 AM, Patty & Steve Spear via <passpear@...> wrote:

Hi,

? ? ?My wife wants me to replace her pantry door with a barn door. She wants it painted so I was just going to make it out of 6/4 popular. She likes the soft close/open feature. Any suggestions on where to buy the hardware?? The big box stores carry some, but I am suspect of the quality. I am thinking it maybe worth spending more on the hardware as this door will be opened and closed many times a day. Thanks for your suggestions.?


Steve




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Dave & Marie Davies

318-219-7868