Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
Hi David, I've had my 941 running nonstop for about 2 1/2 years and have put a lot of material through it. I think it's time to turn the cutters because there are a few nicks here and there, but they still leave a nice finish otherwise, no tear out. I think your issue is actually with your outfeed table, not your cutters. Your mechanism is a little different than mine, but the basic arrangement is the same, with bump stops for table height adjustment and a latch to pull the table into the stops. In my case, I had an issue where the table wasn't quite reaching the stops because the latch was set a little too high (my machine has cam levers, and the one for the outfeed table would spin without tightening), so I adjusted the latch down a little. But you might just need to tweak your bump stop to let the table sit down a little more. This issue would affect the side closest to the operator much more than the far side, because the pivot point is so close to the other side. Hope that makes sense! -Shawn
On Wednesday, November 25, 2020, 02:10:34 PM PST, david.r.milson@... <david.r.milson@...> wrote:
Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
Hey David,
I don’t own a dual51, but I do have carbide insert heads. In the last 12 months, about how many board feet have you put through the machine? Unless you processed 5,000ish board feet, I don’t think the inserts should be dull. A J/P cutterhead does double duty, but I’ve found the carbide heads can eat a ton of lumber. Like you, I rotated mine after about a year, and that was not the best decision. I noticed zero difference in the board’s surface finish before and after rotating.?
Sounds like your outfeed table is out of parallel with the cutterhead. If I had to guess.?
Patrick
On Wed, Nov 25, 2020 at 5:34 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: My dual51 has tersa head but for your mentioned concern, I have been jointing on front (near operator) of cutterhead and try to plane most often on the back. This may actually wear the feeding mechanism unevenly so I am not sure if I should continue this practice. ? Imran ? ? Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
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Tenoning Plate Nut Screws
can someone share the slider nut screw details. i got the plate but it did not come with any nut or screws. not sure if it is a flange head or a washer is used with a different type. appreciate the feedback. here is the pic of the nut from survival guide but would like to see the other side.
imran
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Tom,
thanks for taking the time to share the details. i find this very interesting but just to be sure you have an OSB sub floor (albeit multiple layers). i assume the membrane is next but not sure if it is just floating as a barrier or fixed somehow. then you have wood veneer glued and nailed to OSB. is this another layer of OSB or is this subfloor OSB? how thick are the veneers?
i made traditional wood flooring for a friend that was variable width. it came out really nice. i agree that std wood flooring can be boring. i do like the wide plank look of old days with plugged screws.
imran
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 7:10 PM, tomruth@... wrote: ?? imran, ? Yeah it's not really cost effective, but I wanted to try it and see what happened.? If I do it again I would just resaw 4 or 5 qtr? hardwood once and screw and plug it down. I did it because nobody on woodweb would say it was possible. It was a fun test. The new wood flooring glues are amazing.? I built up an osb sub floor with two and sometimes 3 sheets of 1/2" osb glued and nailed with joints staggered. I used a membrane designed to put wood flooring over concrete under the osb. The veneers were then glued with Bostik glue and top nailed with pin nails right onto the osb. The whole floor was floating. You really don't need T$G flooring, as old time floors were just boards nailed down anyway.? I didn't care if there were any gaps, but so far it's held tight and no gaps. I made sure the 10 ft lengths were straight. I hate the look of cheap wood floors with narrow, short boards. I wanted something different.
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
I was looking at? their? large disk sander.
So I wrote them a? letter inquiring into? the flatness of the
disk? the? total indicator run out and the? class of bearings in
the thing.
THEY SENT ME A HAT.
I didn't buy their machine
On 11/24/20 11:50 PM, PK wrote:
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Baileigh Black Friday sale...
Same 18" machine is (based on the website) is $9850. That is a lot
of machine for the $. Basically digidrive and 3000 pounds.
Would be great if you could see on in person running...
Happy to wait for my AD941, but damn...
PK
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? imran, ? Yeah it's not really cost effective, but I wanted to try it and see what happened.? If I do it again I would just resaw 4 or 5 qtr? hardwood once and screw and plug it down. I did it because nobody on woodweb would say it was possible. It was a fun test. The new wood flooring glues are amazing.? I built up an osb sub floor with two and sometimes 3 sheets of 1/2" osb glued and nailed with joints staggered. I used a membrane designed to put wood flooring over concrete under the osb. The veneers were then glued with Bostik glue and top nailed with pin nails right onto the osb. The whole floor was floating. You really don't need T$G flooring, as old time floors were just boards nailed down anyway.? I didn't care if there were any gaps, but so far it's held tight and no gaps. I made sure the 10 ft lengths were straight. I hate the look of cheap wood floors with narrow, short boards. I wanted something different.
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Re: ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock
#spiralcutterhead
My dual51 has tersa head but for your mentioned concern, I have been jointing on front (near operator) of cutterhead and try to plane most often on the back. This may actually wear the feeding mechanism unevenly so I am not sure if I should continue this practice. ? Imran ?
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From: [email protected] On Behalf Of david.r.milson@... Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2020 5:11 PM To: [email protected]Subject: [FOG] ideas for changing the carbide inserts on silent power cutterblock #spiralcutterhead ? Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
|
Hi, having used my Dual51for about 12 months just recently, I noticed the carbide inserts need attention.
The closest half of the cutter block has worn faster than the back half (as I find it difficult to reach all the way back for jointing boards).
The inserts still do a very reasonable job cutting, but they have worn down.? I can just feel the end of the board hitting the leading edge of the outfeed table so I know it needs attention. And... It doesn't happen when I use the back half of the cutter block
My assumption for best practice would be to rotate all the inserts at once.? I'm wondering if swapping the front half with the back half (and keep using the same edge) to prolong their life might be a good idea?
Cheers
David
Cambridge, New Zealand
|
Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
Paul,
not sure how much more is AD941 but i would be super concerned about service with Baileigh. this is just an perception i have no experience with Baileigh. plus you got FOG for extra assurance ?
Imran
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 10:46 AM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote: ?Imran,
I am sure they are not comparable from a quality perspective, that is why I am patiently waiting for my AD941!
Paul
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
Imran,
I am sure they are not comparable from a quality perspective, that is why I am patiently waiting for my AD941!
Paul
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
thanks Paul. perhaps a diff build level between 2 machines.
imran
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On Nov 25, 2020, at 12:11 AM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote: ? <Screenshot 2020-11-24 210904.png> 15% off $11546.? Must look different on the PC vs mobile...
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
 15% off $11546.? Must look different on the PC vs mobile...
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Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
PK,
this is what i see, where do you see $9850 price? do note that for some reason they list a 12” J/P first followed by 18” model.
imran
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On Nov 24, 2020, at 11:50 PM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote: ?Baileigh Black Friday sale...
Same 18" machine is (based on the website) is $9850. That is a lot of machine for the $. Basically digidrive and 3000 pounds.
Would be great if you could see on in person running...
Happy to wait for my AD941, but damn...
PK
|
Re: AD941 vs. Baileigh JP-1898-NC
Baileigh Black Friday sale...
Same 18" machine is (based on the website) is $9850. That is a lot of machine for the $. Basically digidrive and 3000 pounds.
Would be great if you could see on in person running...
Happy to wait for my AD941, but damn...
PK
|
Re: Qailine quick disconnect
Howard,
are you asking about various quick connect tube fitting used in clamps and in plumbing the slider?
if so what size tube you intend to use?
i have a list of PNs for 5/32” (4mm) and 1/4” tubing which i have used for two different setups of pneumatic clamps.
BTW, i really have not noted a big difference in clamp performance going from 5/32” to 1/4” tubing. i do notice that 1/4” tubing is available in more material choices and can be more kink resistant due to material options and physical size. Perhaps same is true for quick connect tube fitting seeing what Mac uses, not sure if that quality is available in 5/32”.
imran
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On Nov 24, 2020, at 10:15 PM, Howard Metz <hdmetz1960@...> wrote: ?I’m looking for the source and part numbers for the quick disconnects people are using with their air clamps.
thanks
howard
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Re: Qailine quick disconnect
Howard: ?
David Best
https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/
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I’m looking for the source and part numbers for the quick disconnects people are using with their air clamps.
thanks
howard
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I’m looking for the source and part numbers for the quick disconnects people are using with their air clamps.
thanks
howard
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That’s interesting David. I’ve had three new Trimasters over the years and they all seem to cut the same: very consistent in both quality and speed. I’ve never had them sharpened as my current provider in Australia does not sharpen the 1” variety. I don’t know why. I’ve had one CT Woodmaster band and I agree that the 1.3 TPI fits my saw better. The cut is demonstrably faster and smoother. I think I’d need more exposure with the CT blades to see if they are consistently good or not.
Appreciate your observations David. Thanks for contributing.
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On 25 Nov 2020, at 8:11 am, David Kumm < davekumm@...> wrote:
I think the quality of the grind is more important than Trimaster Vs CT.? I've had too many people preferring either to guess which is best.? The Trimaster has more carbide but a fast running saw likes the 1.3.? My experience has been that if one tooth is slightly off it really shows in the cut.? Dave
Jason:
I have not done that and I wonder too. But I know the CT Woodmaster is much less expensive than the Trimaster and I get a demonstrably better cut and it cuts faster. As a result, I will not buy another Trimaster. Each to their own.
Lucky On 25 Nov 2020, at 7:15 am, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
I had a Trimaster previously, and I got a lot of mileage out of it until I cut some anigre which is high in silica.
I do wonder about the whole carbide/steel argument?though. Obviously?the?carbide?will outlast. In most other cases, planer knives, lathe tooling, etc. the sharp tool steel is a better cut than carbide. The Wood Slicer blades are $45 a piece for our saw and the cut is amazing. I can buy 6 for the price of the Trimaster. Wonder how that math would come out factoring in resharpening of the carbide, possibility of needing more cleanup after cutting etc.
Has someone done this for me already?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture?
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- ?Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 ?
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New vacuum clamp pads for the shop
Not sure if any of you have or use the festool vacuum clamp system but I stumbled on a guy on ig who sells a very simple design for more then half the cost. Did some great videos on how he uses them so I decided to buy some and really glad I did. I know there’s other kits other there but I liked the size of the pads he does. I’m sure I could make these for a lot less but hey figured I’d share regardless since he’s doing a Black Friday sale.
check him out his ig account is kouroscarpentry and website is kouroscarpentry.com he’s doing?
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I think the quality of the grind is more important than Trimaster Vs CT.? I've had too many people preferring either to guess which is best.? The Trimaster has more carbide but a fast running saw likes the 1.3.? My experience has been that if one tooth is slightly
off it really shows in the cut.? Dave
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From: [email protected] on behalf of David Luckensmeyer
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 2020 4:51 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] New resaw setup
Jason:
I have not done that and I wonder too. But I know the CT Woodmaster is much less expensive than the Trimaster and I get a demonstrably better cut and it cuts faster. As a result, I will not buy another Trimaster. Each to their own.
Lucky
On 25 Nov 2020, at 7:15 am, Jason Holtz < jholtzy@...> wrote:
I had a Trimaster previously, and I got a lot of mileage out of it until I cut some anigre which is high in silica.
I do wonder about the whole carbide/steel argument?though. Obviously?the?carbide?will outlast. In most other cases, planer knives, lathe tooling, etc. the sharp tool steel is a better cut than carbide. The Wood Slicer blades are $45 a piece for
our saw and the cut is amazing. I can buy 6 for the price of the Trimaster. Wonder how that math would come out factoring in resharpening of the carbide, possibility of needing more cleanup after cutting etc.
Has someone done this for me already?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
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imran
PK
David P. Best
David Luckensmeyer