Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Sure, it may take a week with the holiday, I won't leave you hanging!
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Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
As with all things, I guess its how you plan to use it.?
At our pro shop, we're constantly bouncing back and forth with setups and I know how long manual adjusting and verification takes....and the mistakes that can get made. I am reminded at least every other setup how smart the decision was because we don't make so many mistakes and it's easier to get back to a previous setup. Many times its as simple as taking a photo on the phone to reference upon return. This is super helpful on shaper setups.
All equipment is metric also, for good reason, and further prevents mistakes in measurements and setups. The ability to work in metric also means you are at 0.1mm resolution, which we have found very beneficial. 0.1mm per button tap and its easy to find perfect.
So, from another angle - ask yourself how costly can mistakes be if preventable with digital? And how precise do you need results to be?
I have the power drive on the ad941 j/p and the dumbed down version of it on the k700s.
On the ad941 i had a little bit of a hard time with the “tap” at first but doesn’t take the long to get the hang of of it, i will say that seems a bit more troubling in decimal than mm, i only use mm...
The saw, the dumbed down version as I call it is the version that has no digital readout and is for the blade up and down only - the tilt is the dial indicator, I would not recommend that configuration, when you try to dial in the exact height of the blade it’s hard to get it where you want without trial and error, you would be better off with manual and a dial indicator.
From what I understand the powerdrive is pretty robust and accurate, i did inquire about the cost of replacing the board if it failed and was told it is something like $200 - $300. You should expect a good 10 years on a quality built circuit board these days and really much longer, i work in industrial controls now and we have similar build quality boards in super harsh conditions (talking unconditioned, exposed to elements in India, Africa to name a few but pretty much every location on earth and 24/7 operations) that last 10 years. A lot of boards if not all these days can also be repaired if you know what to look for, use to be that these boards were one offs now mostly a commodity item. I am not at all concerned with powerdrive level electronics...
Digi drive is a different story so someone else with experience would have to comment on that.?
I would think with the saw shaper you would want the power drive for ease of shaper setup but I am not a combo guy for saw shaper....
The k940s that is replacing my k700s will be power drive with all dro, i am an ex professional furniture/millwork maker but now hobby some commission and i think the powerdrive is basically $1500 and full dro $1500 and totally worth it over the long hall. I figure at best I have 25-30yrs left of woodworking so not alot in the scheme of things... ? [Edited Message Follows]
Well, I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider. I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know. What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)??? Help... PK
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Thanks Brett - would you post a picture when you set it up?
Regarding my research? and everyone's recommendations, it looks like building and rigging a dedicated laser line with a 90 degree beam is going to be possible and budgeted about $100.?
But, like Uncle Clint, it appears a package using a pre-made laser level unit may be much easier and more flexible. My current unit doesn't have a pendulum that will lock at angle, but I saw some new ones that have much better features.....I think with the flexibility and cost, this is the best solution. Plus I can still pull it off to hang a picture on the wall. I just ordered a cheap green laser unit rechargeable with USB and magnetic bracket that will arrive later this week - thanks for everyone's help!
I too was looking for a laser solution but like Jason i gave up and went back to my trusty gauge block when it matters, when it doesn’t I just eye ball it...
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:46 AM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?Hi Clinton:
Do you have any pics of your laser set-up? And what are the laser specs? I often hear the notion of lasers not being strong enough to see in good light, or being too wide to be useful. Your laser sounds quite good, in contrast.? ? Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Regarding my research? and everyone's recommendations, it looks like building and rigging a dedicated laser line with a 90 degree beam is going to be possible and budgeted about $100.?
But, like Uncle Clint, it appears a package using a pre-made laser level unit may be much easier and more flexible. My current unit doesn't have a pendulum that will lock at angle, but I saw some new ones that have much better features.....I think with the flexibility and cost, this is the best solution. Plus I can still pull it off to hang a picture on the wall. I just ordered a cheap green laser unit rechargeable with USB and magnetic bracket that will arrive later this week - thanks for everyone's help!
I too was looking for a laser solution but like Jason i gave up and went back to my trusty gauge block when it matters, when it doesn’t I just eye ball it...
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:46 AM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
?Hi Clinton:
Do you have any pics of your laser set-up? And what are the laser specs? I often hear the notion of lasers not being strong enough to see in good light, or being too wide to be useful. Your laser sounds quite good, in contrast.? ? Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I too was looking for a laser solution but like Jason i gave up and went back to my trusty gauge block when it matters, when it doesn’t I just eye ball it...
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:46 AM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
? Hi Clinton:
Do you have any pics of your laser set-up? And what are the laser specs? I often hear the notion of lasers not being strong enough to see in good light, or being too wide to be useful. Your laser sounds quite good, in contrast.? On 22 Nov 2020, at 2:46 pm, clinton.freer Freer <clinton.freer@...> wrote:
? Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
I have the power drive on the ad941 j/p and the dumbed down version of it on the k700s.
On the ad941 i had a little bit of a hard time with the “tap” at first but doesn’t take the long to get the hang of of it, i will say that seems a bit more troubling in decimal than mm, i only use mm...
The saw, the dumbed down version as I call it is the version that has no digital readout and is for the blade up and down only - the tilt is the dial indicator, I would not recommend that configuration, when you try to dial in the exact height of the blade it’s hard to get it where you want without trial and error, you would be better off with manual and a dial indicator.
From what I understand the powerdrive is pretty robust and accurate, i did inquire about the cost of replacing the board if it failed and was told it is something like $200 - $300. You should expect a good 10 years on a quality built circuit board these days and really much longer, i work in industrial controls now and we have similar build quality boards in super harsh conditions (talking unconditioned, exposed to elements in India, Africa to name a few but pretty much every location on earth and 24/7 operations) that last 10 years. A lot of boards if not all these days can also be repaired if you know what to look for, use to be that these boards were one offs now mostly a commodity item. I am not at all concerned with powerdrive level electronics...
Digi drive is a different story so someone else with experience would have to comment on that.?
I would think with the saw shaper you would want the power drive for ease of shaper setup but I am not a combo guy for saw shaper....
The k940s that is replacing my k700s will be power drive with all dro, i am an ex professional furniture/millwork maker but now hobby some commission and i think the powerdrive is basically $1500 and full dro $1500 and totally worth it over the long hall. I figure at best I have 25-30yrs left of woodworking so not alot in the scheme of things...
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Show quoted text
On Nov 22, 2020, at 12:12 AM, PK <paul.kellymjc@...> wrote:
? [Edited Message Follows]
Well, I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider. I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know. What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)??? Help... PK
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Hi Clinton:
Do you have any pics of your laser set-up? And what are the laser specs? I often hear the notion of lasers not being strong enough to see in good light, or being too wide to be useful. Your laser sounds quite good, in contrast.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 22 Nov 2020, at 2:46 pm, clinton.freer Freer <clinton.freer@...> wrote:
? Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I tried to rig up a laser on my Panhans. I bought?a relatively high power red laser on ebay, and was intending to mount it to the overarm guard support tube or the dust collection pipe about 7 feet from the saw table.The line ended up being too wide, and not nearly bright enough in a very well lit shop. I also tried to use my broken laser level. once you tilt it too far it gets wonky. I gave up. I've had enough practice sighting down the edge of the slider that I can get remarkably close to a pencil line. It sure would be nice though. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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Re: Would you buy a combo Shaper/Saw?
Well,
I spent some time this week with Carl @Felder in Anaheim.? Decided on a configuration I think.? Waiting on a quote.? KF700SP if it is possible to get it in single phase with a 9' slider.
I am really torn about power drive.? Carl had lots of thoughts around going manual.? The tap feature does seem annoying, but I haven't lived with it to know.
What does everyone think?? For a hobby WW?? Is it something to break?? How much more is the cost (power drive vs 4 dial indicators)???
Help...
PK
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
Hi guys
I made a steel bracket above my slider and mounted a Leica builders laser that has a magnetic base. I placed a two meter straight edge against the blade of the saw and quite easily adjusted the laser line to the straight edge. The beam fades at the ends so I centered the beam at the infeed edge of the saw to maximize the projection onto the material. The higher you go above your machine the thicker your line will be.? It workes quite well as a reference.
Regards
On Sun, 22 Nov 2020, 3:34 pm Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression, < airtightclamps@...> wrote: I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: new to me, benefit of scoring
I have to say low angle pocket screws are a revolution the first time you use them.? My brother has a TSM-12 and was preaching to me about it...? So I happened to find a Porter Cable 552 New in the box (new old stock) on ebay for next to nothing.? Came in the original box.? It is basically a licensed copy, because Castle used to use porter cable routers in the machine.
It has one disadvantage from the Castle.? The Castle accepts stock up to 1.5" thick I believe, and the 552 only accepts 15/16" stock.
Amazing tool, makes cabinets Childs play.
If you find either for sale, buy it.
PK
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Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I have a cut block on my fence so I know we’re the lead edge cut will be and I know where that is on the handle side be just look and feel clamp and cut. If I need to cut to a line I put a light long straight edge against to saw tips and line up with the line and clamp and cut. Sorry can’t help with the laser thingy. Maybe Carter can advise. Mac,,? Designing and building for 50 years
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Show quoted text
On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:56 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:
? Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran
On Nov 21, 2020, at 11:25 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
You can buy old stock open or sealed bearings with little risk unless no longer packed to keep out moisture.? If i find an older sealed bearing I need that is difficult to find new, I just pop the seals and inspect or most likely replace the grease and put
the seals back.? Shielded bearings are best to buy new as you have to be better than me to replace a shield.? The one thing you don't want to do is spin a dry bearing, even when cleaning.? Using air to spin out the mineral spirits when cleaning is a good way
to screw them up.? Dave
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I look for recognized manufacture usually old stock. I wouldn’t consider something on e bay as necessarily ?junk .
All your Felder stuff is sealed bearings.the. Grease is good for at least 10 years if used daily.?
I use my machines in machine shop regularly, ?I am shocked ?at how little time I put on the
Machine with timers.
I would not worry about sealed bearings giving out.
I dislike ?VOC a lot so try to limit my exposure.?
Designing and building for 50 years
On Nov 21, 2020, at 6:10 PM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
It really depends on what I am doing.? I may go to ebay and get cheap shit or? I may? insist on? Fafner? or Timkin and? then I end up payiing? a lot more.
On 11/21/20 12:27 AM, Joe Jensen wrote:
Anyone recall?
|
Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
6307.? Sealed are fine as the rpm is so slow.? You want C2 or CN ( normal ) clearance, not C3.? SKF Explorer ABEC 3 or equiv.? ABEC is a measure of precision or how concentric the inner and outer races are.? No point in any bearing with higher precision due
to the slow rpm and cage material.? Dave
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They are for? Tannewitz 30” bandsaw, upper wheel.? The size is OD = 80mm, ID = 35mm, ?width = 21mm
?
?
What is the application?? What size bearing ?? Are they for the Tanny wheels?? Dave
What spec bearings do I need, pretty sure the metal shield ones that were in there were not original.? I assume I want no seal bearings but what clearance, C3? And what
ABEC?? Two big bearings support the upper wheel, maybe 100 lbs wheel.? They are on a 35mm shaft and about 10” apart.
?
?
I have been buying from motion/ wisconsin bearing for 50 years this is volume one a superb reference book ?50 years old . I two try to support the local businesses. 70% of my venders are within 100 miles.
When the bearings start getting real expensive I go to ebay first.?
 
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Nov 21, 2020, at 1:26 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
Jason and Tom, I'm in agreement about supporting local businesses.? They support my accounting firm.? My experience locally with bearing and some other shops is that they aren't manned with the type of knowlege to
justify the price upcharge.? Over the many years I've bought from bearing, motor, ? electrical, machine shops, etc, I've seen a depth of knowledge retiring and not being replaced.? Not a rant but people who understand how things work are becoming more rare.?
That is a real loss.? That might be different in larger markets with a larger pool to draw from but a real issue in some smaller towns.? Dave
I'm with Tom on this one. I have two local bearing supply houses that 98% of the time have what I need, on the shelf in SKF or Nachi. Often a couple dollars more than ordering it online, but I don't care about that. I'd rather pay more, talk to a live person
who knows what they're talking about, and have it the day I discover I need it. We've lost a lot of places like that the last 10 years and I do my best to support the ones that are still around.
?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Laser Kerf Line for slider saw?
I haven’t but i think it would be great. ??
On Sat, Nov 21, 2020 at 12:56 PM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Brett,
i am sure you know Felder makes one for bandsaws. bit salty for me as a hobby user. I do not know if anyone has tried mounting it for saw application.
imran ? Has anyone?installed or does a successful modification?exist for quick line-ups of the initial cut on rough stock like laser lines on a high-end rip saw? I'm envisioning it being mounted to an overhead guard mount or even from an isolated ceiling mount. Just didn't know if anyone had a practical and/or reliably accurate one, I'm still aggravated by using my feeler block for clearance and fumbling the stock around, seems like it could be better.
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
|
Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
That's not what I said.
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On 11/21/20 7:22 PM, Airtight: Clamps by Air Compression wrote: I wouldn’t consider something on e bay as necessarily ?junk .
|
Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
I look for recognized manufacture usually old stock. I wouldn’t consider something on e bay as necessarily ?junk . All your Felder stuff is sealed bearings.the. Grease is good for at least 10 years if used daily.? I use my machines in machine shop regularly, ?I am shocked ?at how little time I put on the Machine with timers. I would not worry about sealed bearings giving out. I dislike ?VOC a lot so try to limit my exposure.? Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Nov 21, 2020, at 6:10 PM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:
?
It really depends on what I am doing.? I may go to ebay and get
cheap shit or? I may? insist on? Fafner? or Timkin and? then I end
up payiing? a lot more.
On 11/21/20 12:27 AM, Joe Jensen wrote:
Anyone recall?
|
Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
It really depends on what I am doing.? I may go to ebay and get
cheap shit or? I may? insist on? Fafner? or Timkin and? then I end
up payiing? a lot more.
On 11/21/20 12:27 AM, Joe Jensen wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
|
Re: Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
They are for? Tannewitz 30” bandsaw, upper wheel.? The size is OD = 80mm, ID = 35mm, ?width = 21mm
?
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From: [email protected] < [email protected]>
On Behalf Of David Kumm
Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2020 3:14 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Where to buy bearings? I recall people recommending someone online
?
What is the application?? What size bearing ?? Are they for the Tanny wheels?? Dave
What spec bearings do I need, pretty sure the metal shield ones that were in there were not original.? I assume I want no seal bearings but what clearance,
C3? And what ABEC?? Two big bearings support the upper wheel, maybe 100 lbs wheel.? They are on a 35mm shaft and about 10” apart.
?
?
I have been buying from motion/ wisconsin bearing for 50 years this is volume one a superb reference book ?50 years old . I two try to support the local businesses. 70% of my venders are within 100 miles.
When the bearings start getting real expensive I go to ebay first.?
 
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
?
On Nov 21, 2020, at 1:26 PM, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:
?
Jason and Tom, I'm in agreement about supporting local businesses.? They support my accounting firm.? My experience locally with bearing and some other shops is that they aren't manned with the
type of knowlege to justify the price upcharge.? Over the many years I've bought from bearing, motor, ? electrical, machine shops, etc, I've seen a depth of knowledge retiring and not being replaced.? Not a rant but people who understand how things work are
becoming more rare.? That is a real loss.? That might be different in larger markets with a larger pool to draw from but a real issue in some smaller towns.? Dave
I'm with Tom on this one. I have two local bearing supply houses that 98% of the time have what I need, on the shelf in SKF or Nachi. Often a couple dollars more than ordering it online, but I don't care about that. I'd rather pay more,
talk to a live person who knows what they're talking about, and have it the day I discover I need it. We've lost a lot of places like that the last 10 years and I do my best to support the ones that are still around.
?
Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765
--
Jason
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South
Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
jason,
that is a sweet setup.
imran
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On Nov 21, 2020, at 10:13 AM, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote: ?As many of you know, I'm an auction hound. It really paid off recently when I found this bandsaw feeder, brand new in the box, and local!? This is not your typical Comatic type bandsaw feeder. This is completely different, it's basically a infinitely variable speed edge sander, with a outboard pressure module. It's Italian made and was imported by Laguna for a little while. They reportedly tried to have it copied in China and it didn't work out so well. I'd never seen or heard about this thing before, but we decided to give it a shot. The auction ended and we got it for about $800. Higher than I would have expected, but way cheaper than any other bandsaw specific feeder. We learned that it was supposed to attach to the Laguna Driftmaster Fence, which has also been discontinued. We ended up having a bracket fabricated to attach it the Felder 540's fence rail. We are intending to dedicate this saw to resaw, so we didn't mind loosing the stock fence ability. The pressure module is designed to slide into the t-slot. As you know, the Felder slot is very shallow, so we milled the bar to fit, and just use a single clamp to keep it in place rather than drilling and tapping. It's also easy to remove this way. Here's a short video of it in action, and a photo of the cut. We are using a 3/4" Wood Slicer blade in the video. The quality on both sides, offcut and the thin piece are good enough to glue to. No need to re joint the plank before cutting another. We will probably put a Lenox carbide blade on once we use up our stash of Slicer blades.  -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
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David Luckensmeyer
Jason Holtz
PK
Joe Jensen
imran