Re: How do I make this molding

#137928

Realizing that I could build up complex profiles from multiple pieces was the key thought that really opened up possibilities for me.? Depending on the complexity, I've sometimes build fixtures to enable consistent glue-ups of the component parts.? I've also built fixtures to enable me to run sub components through routing/shaping.? I'm largely a self taught woodworker, but I have a background as a machinist, where creating fixtures is a very common technique for solving difficult work-holding problems.

Re: Advice about spraying unit for light metals on slider

#137927

I have cut a lot of aluminum on the slider. Unless you want to do it a lot, I wouldn't bother with the lubrication option. I use a Castrol Stick Lube I think they call it, use it on the chop saw, table saw and band saw if I'm cutting aluminum.

If you really have a lot, I designed an MQL lubrication system and you could run alcohol through it. That? is done on quite a few metal working machines where they don't want any oil on the finished product. I have a pdf instruction file on how to build the system if anybody wants it. File is too big to email, see the link below:

Brian Lamb

blamb11@...

lambtoolworks.com

On Tuesday, October 29, 2024 at 01:46:34 PM MST, Michael Wolf <missingeggacct@...> wrote:

Does anyone have experience with a slider that has the optional spraying unit for cutting light metals?? I'm planning to buy a slider at the end of this year, and am trying to decide if I should get a K700S with that option, as I do an odd array of one-off fabrication, and the ability to cut aluminum sheet could be helpful.? My main hesitation is whether the sprayer is really only useful to enable a saw for consistent cutting of aluminum, but not so helpful if one is regularly wanting to switch between wood and aluminum.? If it takes me hours to switch materials due to the need for cleaning things up, I won't bother with the sprayer.

CF531 delayed stop

#137926

Recently my CF531 has exhibited a delay in stopping.? When I press the stop button, the machine begins to slow down but then increases in speed and I have to wait 5 to 10 seconds before the machine stops completely.? This is the case for all of the combination machine functions.? Does anyone know why this is happening and how I might correct the problem.??

Thanks, Laurie Lewis

Re: How do I make this molding

#137925

开云体育

Thanks Jonathan, Bryce and Patrick. Yes, the thought was to do it in 2 pieces. Dado the profiles stock and the glue it to a backer. The shadow line is the tough part. I can roll the molding on top of a spinning router V bit but need to secure the end of the molding against something for registration of each cut and also to avoid any sideways movement of the molding. Still not sure if it is safe.

Imran Malik

Show quoted text

On Oct 29, 2024, at 11:45?AM, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:

?

Like Patrick said, do it in two pieces, heck even if it were stained, you could still do it in two by first ripping the piece to be used in two. If the saw kerfs do indeed go full depth, or even close to it, i would simply do the dado cuts for the dentil part, then glue the pieces together before making the kerf cuts.

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

Advice about spraying unit for light metals on slider

#137924

Does anyone have experience with a slider that has the optional spraying unit for cutting light metals?? I'm planning to buy a slider at the end of this year, and am trying to decide if I should get a K700S with that option, as I do an odd array of one-off fabrication, and the ability to cut aluminum sheet could be helpful.? My main hesitation is whether the sprayer is really only useful to enable a saw for consistent cutting of aluminum, but not so helpful if one is regularly wanting to switch between wood and aluminum.? If it takes me hours to switch materials due to the need for cleaning things up, I won't bother with the sprayer.

Re: New Owner of K700S

#137923

I bought a narrow one from Crown. After looking at online options, prices and shipping I found an add for Crown. A quick call to the number got me a call back from my local rep. He was able top get me a new 48" narrow Crown for 500.00 delivered to my shop. Made in the USA with a service and parts warehouse 3 hours from my house. I use it for many jobs in? the shop like moving my bench ect. It was very competitively priced the rep delivered it himself, I figure if it good enough for Costco it should do me well!

--

Mark Foster

Re: OT: What totally unexpected things you have found in the shop

#137922

Unexpected thing occurred years back designing/handcrafting a front door for a client; I was milling stock on jointer and saw what looked like a drop of blood on wood after flipping, but then realized it was a hole, then noticed a few woodchuck bees ? flying in shop.  I’d stored wood outside under cover and didn’t foresee this coming but I remedied it with Dutchman’s and the door being a one off a bit eccentric it just adds to the patina, (no issues with client having one Dutchman on stile……. So a happy ending to what could have been a total redo as I had no more wine tank wood.   Please see Photos attached below. Cheers

Re: File /General Information/BGHM_Shaper Training English.pdf uploaded #file-notice

#137921

Wow! At first glance it looks like a wealth of good information. It's always good to be reminded how to use these machines safely. I've a few "pucker" moments that I would like to avoid. This document will be helpful. Thank you for sharing.

Kerry

--

Kerry Smith
Gotham Woodworks
www.gothamwoodworks.com

File /General Information/BGHM_Shaper Training English.pdf uploaded #file-notice

Group Notification

#137920

The following items have been added to the Files area of the [email protected] group.

/General Information/BGHM_Shaper Training English.pdf

By: David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...>

Description:
I added the shaper section from the BGHM training document. Dave Davies

Re: New Owner of K700S

#137919

I found a used one locally, paid $100 for it, but then had to rebuild the seals on the lift cyliinder, not sure it was worth the savings to go used. Mine is a BT Lift, think they are made in Europe, parts are readily available. Any reputable brand will be good, Crown, Jet and many others. You will need a narrow unit, mine is 20.5" x 48". You can pick up anything with it, but being narrow, you do need to balance the item you are trying to lift.

When I originally got my saw back in 2001, the driver used a lift gate and his pallet jack to get it off the truck and into my garage at the time. Then I rented a narrow pallet jack and got it down off the pallet and moved from the garage into the shop. I didn't buy my own pallet jack until about 15 years ago after moving several times... should have done it right at the beginning.

Brian Lamb

blamb11@...

lambtoolworks.com

On Tuesday, October 29, 2024 at 08:45:26 AM MST, Denno <dennis@...> wrote:

Many thanks Brian, I think I may go ahead and buy one. I know it will come in handy around the shop for other things as well.

Did you go with a specific brand and were you happy with its performance?

I have read that I will need the narrow version. Do you know if the narrow version would also move the pallet after it is unloaded by the saw delivery driver?

I have a very long driveway and am wondering if I can talk/tip the driver into 'palleting' it into my garage or if I am better off having the above pallet jack ready and waiting at the street?

?

Many thanks

Dennis

Re: New Owner of K700S

#137918

Many thanks Brian, I think I may go ahead and buy one. I know it will come in handy around the shop for other things as well.

Did you go with a specific brand and were you happy with its performance?

I have read that I will need the narrow version. Do you know if the narrow version would also move the pallet after it is unloaded by the saw delivery driver?

I have a very long driveway and am wondering if I can talk/tip the driver into 'palleting' it into my garage or if I am better off having the above pallet jack ready and waiting at the street?

?

Many thanks

Dennis

Re: How do I make this molding

#137917

Like Patrick said, do it in two pieces, heck even if it were stained, you could still do it in two by first ripping the piece to be used in two. If the saw kerfs do indeed go full depth, or even close to it, i would simply do the dado cuts for the dentil part, then glue the pieces together before making the kerf cuts.

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

Re: New to me RL200

#137916

Thanks for your insight Peter. It is working very well, & everything seems to check out, so i guess i'll enjoy the benefit of the extra warmth over the winter, then see how it goes in the summer. :)

?

Regards,

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

Re: How do I make this molding

#137915

Hey Imran,

Will the moulding be painted like the example? Also, do you have a closer photo??

If the final moulding will be painted, then i would do it in two pieces. The front dentil moulding would be one piece. This allows you to run through a dado and achieve the squared?profile in one shot. The second piece is simple flat stock that appears to be taller than the dentil moulding. Once painted they will appear as one moulding. As for the small groove separating the dentil pieces, can you see how deep it is? If it is just a simple shadow line, then you can make a nonthrough?cut at the table saw/radial arm saw. If that skinny groove goes full depth, then i suppose you are gluing a ton of separate dentil pieces with a spacer. This seems like a PITA. I just did a similar dentil moulding for an exterior door and i am interested in how the pros approach it. I did all my cuts with a dado stack at my oliver 232. I made it out of one solid piece of sapele, and this ended up requiring a decent amount of cleanup in very tight nooks n crannies. In hindsight, i would have chopped the moulding up into many different pieces in order to make sanding much much easier. I dont?appreciate the grain continuity as much as i thought i would.?

Patrick

On Tue, Oct 29, 2024 at 10:19?AM jontathan samways via <jonathansamways=[email protected]> wrote:

Show quoted text

Imran , I presume you didn’t have CNC.
I don’t and this is how I would attack it …..first shape the length of moulding to required shape. I would then make a jig for the router, you would need to cut in from 2 directions to get rid of the round shape of the router cutter. Finish the inside of the cut/hole with chisel. Last job is the cut the division…….These type of moulding are fun especially if you see the internal and external miters and want all the segments the same size. Always start fitting with a full segment on the external mitres and hope the external mitre works out ok

Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción.
This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.

On Tue, 29 Oct 2024 at 14:34, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:
I know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas?

Imran Malik

Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

#137914

Ok, so if you're talking face frames, then do as Mac suggests (& i stated in my other post). Rip over size and dress. I will assume your material is 4/4? Rip first, dress second. You can also rough cut material into shorter lengths, cutting your longest lengths from the straightest pieces. This of course will be more time consuming, but may be necessary if you material is less than ideal in its straightness. The problem you may run into depending on the species, and how it has been dried, is the stresses in the board might result in very bent pieces after ripping them down in size. This can vary from one board to another, and from one batch to another. Based on how much each board moves, you might need to make a wider rip, so you can get a straight edge on the jointer. Next joint the face, then the edge of each board. They are now ready to run through the thickness planer to get them perfectly parallel in width and thickness and exactly to the required size. Being face frames, some amount of bowing might be acceptable, in which case, you might be better off dressing all the material in the longest lengths possible, and then cutting to the required lengths. Remember, always cut your longest lengths first!!!

?

Hope this helps.

Bryce

--

https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw

Re: New Owner of K700S

#137913

Hey Dennis:

?

Just a few comments/thoughts as relatively recently went through the same process:

?

1.? Do invest in a narrow pallet jack as it will make life easier when just moving the main and slider arm shipping crates around the shop, and when taking the slider off the crate.? Buy or borrow one.

?

2.? Keep it simple and don't overthink (like I did) getting the slider off the pallet - build a ramp and use the pallet jack to roll it down.? I did this by myself and was much easier than expected.? Moving the main body of the saw? ? ? around is easy with the pallet jack but becomes VERY tricky and will lean once the slider arm is attached so get the body in its the final location otherwise it will be a PITA to move once the arm is installed.??

?

3.? I have yet to purchase the Lamb Tool and Mac's Clamps as wanted to learn the basics and get used to the saw itself before introducing other appliances and learning curves.? Am close though ;).

?

4.? I will be making the FF jig on my own and feel it is a requirement for a slider.

?

5.? Do think about getting the saw commissioned by Felder - I eventually did for all my equipment and it proved worthwhile to get the equipment dialed in.

?

6.? You will need good clamps and finally pulled the trigger on the new Harvey clamps.? The ones by Felder IMHO are bulky and not as user friendly.

?

Kamal Patel

?

Re: How do I make this molding

#137912

Imran , I presume you didn’t have CNC.

I don’t and this is how I would attack it …..first shape the length of moulding to required shape. I would then make a jig for the router, you would need to cut in from 2 directions to get rid of the round shape of the router cutter. Finish the inside of the cut/hole with chisel. Last job is the cut the division…….These type of moulding are fun especially if you see the internal and external miters and want all the segments the same size. Always start fitting with a full segment on the external mitres and hope the external mitre works out ok

Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción.
This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.

Show quoted text

On Tue, 29 Oct 2024 at 14:34, imranindiana via <imranindiana=[email protected]> wrote:

I know how to achieve everything but the shallow groove between notches. Any ideas?

Imran Malik

Re: Bowmouldmaster Install Issue

#137911

开云体育

First use of BMM. Much needed shaper insert for 150 mm cutterheads.

Imran Malik

Show quoted text

On Oct 27, 2024, at 10:53?PM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?

Done!

<image0.jpeg>

Imran Malik

On Oct 27, 2024, at 10:34?AM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?Hi David,

Thanks for the reference. It never fails, I looked through the index (obviously not carefully enough) and the section 7 in survival guide before asking the question. Completely missed the installation provided in Section 10 ??♂?

The great survival guide has all the answers if you are smart enough to look carefully.

I will report if the webbing is any different than survival guide on my 2002 KF700.

Imran Malik

On Oct 27, 2024, at 10:11?AM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:

?Imran - from page 226 in the Survival Guide - ?this would be for ?KF700, but the F700 is similar. ?Trunion bolts only exist on pre-X-Roll type machines which I believe is what you have. ?Check the webbing positions on the underside of the cast iron top before drilling - you don’t want to drill into the webs :

<BowmouldMaster.jpg>

If you plan on using tooling with the BowmouldMaster in conjunction with the sliding table and a crosscut fence, then I would not recommend rotating the template. ?Better to drill two sets if necessary to get the full position flexibility of the hood. ?I often use the BowmouldMaster with counter-profile tooling and a crosscut fence because the dust extraction is so much better with that hood. ?

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

On Oct 27, 2024, at 6:54?AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Thanks Teboma. Rotating is definitely an option. I should have mentioned that I eyeballed it but my OCD, won’t allow it.

Hi Tom, Thanks for sharing your experience. By omission, I assume you have not discovered any issues. If something came up I could do another set towards the front.

Imran Malik

On Oct 27, 2024, at 8:14?AM, Tom Gensmer via groups.io <tom@...> wrote:

?
Hi Imran,?

?

I had a similar issue when drilling for the 220mm Bowmould on my TF-130. As Teboma suggests, the easiest solution is to simply rotate the template to avoid existing obstructions.?

?

In my case, the limiting factor was the large opening in the table, which precluded rotating the template, so I just shifted it back enough to clear the opening.?

?

?

--

Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

#137910

Thank you for the replies...John and Imran, great suggestions and simple and should do the trick!? Am going to try this method along with the BS or rough cut on the slider and then finishing on the JP.

?

Re: Help Ripping - just got my first sliding table saw. Felder k700s

#137909

I use the same method as Imran.

John love you Gizmo! thanks for sharing.

Show quoted text

On Tue, 29 Oct 2024 at 12:33, DanielD via <dan=[email protected]> wrote:

Hullo all- very informative thread, thanks to all the contributors! I learn a lot here.

I recall one member posting that they precisely cut a square of MDF, set it against the left fence, and now you have a registration surface for ripping narrower pieces. (Can clamp the mdf to the outrigger so it doesn’t shift). I made one of 3/4”, 500mm square, so I can use the flip stop to set rip width by adding 500. Works really well and as long as the two ‘good’ sides touch nothing else, has stayed true for a lot of use. Costs nothing :-)

Cheers

--

Daniel Day
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada

--

Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

Este mensaje se dirige exclusivamente a su destinatario y puede contener información privilegiada o confidencial. Si no es vd.el destinatario indicado, queda notificado de que la utilización, divulgación y/o copia sin autorización está prohibida en virtud de la legislación vigente. Si ha recibido este mensaje por error, le rogamos que nos lo comunique inmediatamente por esta misma vía y proceda a su destrucción.
This message is intended exclusively for its addressee and may contain information that is confidential and protected by professional privilege.If you are not the intended recipient you are hereby notified that any dissemination, copy or disclosure of this communication is strictly prohibited by law. If this message has been received in error, please immediately notify us via e-mail and delete it.