|
Re: Shaper Spindle Question
I like reading comments on questions like this, so I can learn a thing or two....
?
Fortunately with my spindle moulder TI145EP there is auto calibrate function to a built in "true perpendicular" and relative fence positions.?
?
I discovered this function while investigating why the tenon plate is cutting trapzoid rather than square - turn out the spindle was out by 0.9 deg.?
?
by pressing auto calibrate the spindle will perform series of movement and then tells you certain parameter is out.?
?
If the true perpendicular is out of whack it can be adjusted manually.? |
|
|
Re: What is the best dust extractor for portable tools?
We had a central vacuum system in our house with outlets in each room.? We didn't use it so I moved power unit to the shop.? (My wife never noticed.)? I added a small cyclone separator mounted on a 10 gallon plastic barrel in front of the bag canister. I plumbed 1.5" pvc to pick up stations mounted several places in the shop like the chop saw, grinding stations, above benches and where I vacuum out my autos.
?
I don't know the motor size but it's a lot better than my shop vac.? The inlets are all wall and overhead mount so no cords or power unit to drag around and no floor space used.? The cyclone works so well that I have never emptied the paper filter catch bag.? It's old and mainly steel parts so no plastic to age out.? The system is only good for dust and smaller particles.? There are lots of online sources for components.?Costs might competitive with the green plastic machines. ?BTW, I have a separate AF22 high volume, low pressure 5" duct dust collector for the saw and planer.? Both this and the central vac are mounted together outside the shop.??
?
? |
|
|
Re: What is the best dust extractor for portable tools?
I switched from Festool to a Mirka extractor when I upgraded to their Deros sander. It's a Nilfisk built vac I believe. It is big and bulky, but it does the job well. I got tired of replacing parts on my CT mini that I'd had for 10 years or so.? A couple of people in my shop have new Makita vacs that I think are also built by Nilfisk. They have Auto cleaned filter feature that is so obnoxious it drives me bonkers. I measured it at 20 ft away at 89 decibels. And it does it like every 20 seconds while you're running the vacuum. So annoying and unnecessary I think the mirka and the Nilfisk Aero I've used just have a manual clean button.? Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 |
|
|
Re: What is the best dust extractor for portable tools?
Hi PK,?
?
Sorry I'm late to conversation, I was working on-site yesterday.?
?
As has already been discussed, the Festool CT-22/33 were very nice vacuums, I suspect there's a crack somewhere which is compromising performance.
-- Interestingly, while the CT-26/26/48 have some improved creature comforts, the electronics package in the 22/33 seem to be more robust, as evidenced by the raft of fried control boards when users shifted their Oneida Dust Deputy cyclones from the older vacs to the 26/36/48 when they were released.?
-- The Festool 26/36/48 have the greatest variety of accessories available in terms of work station, boom arm, etc..., so they might end up being the best option for a mobile sanding station.?
-- The 26 can fill quickly if you're performing a lot of routing operations, though it's probably the best suited for taking on-site.?
-- The 36 is a decent all-rounder, and probably the best bet for shop-based work.?
-- The 48 has the best value proposition in terms of volume, but I've heard the bags can be quite heavy/dense when filled, particularly with sanding dust.?
?
The Nilfisk Attix 33/44 are great vacs. I'm running a Attix 44 as my "shop" vacuum. A few notes:
-- It's important to note that the Nilfisk (and most of the re-brands) ship with a 32mm hose, which is a great all-rounder but probably overkill for sanders, and you'd likely want to order a 27mm hose for your sanders.?
-- Mirka offers a "work station" which clips to the top of the Nilfisk vacs, which provides you with a location to hang sanders, hoses, and accessories. Great for a mobile sanding station.
-- The Attix 33/44 utilize a a two- or three- stage filtration system. At a minimum, they utilize a HEPA filter encased in a plastic shroud, a separate pre-filter, and utilizing a fleece liner bag serves as a third stage. The advantage of this system is that the pre-filter is relatively inexpensive, and allows you to change it out multiple times before you'd eventually need to service the HEPA filter. This is particularly relevant when performing more "construction"-type work where you're extracting drywall, concrete, plaster, or other cementitious dust, where you benefit from an automatic filter cleaning mechanism on the pre-filter, while still getting the benefit of the HEPA protection. In contrast, if you opt for one of the Auto-Clean Festool vacs, you give up the HEPA filter.?
-- Hoses are forward/backward compatible with Festool.?
?
Perhaps somewhat less optimized for Shop work but still worthy of mention are the Starmix iPulse vacuums, arguably the best portable extractors on the market.
-- These vacs are produced by Starmix in Germany, and re-branded through a variety of other German companies such as Mafell, Metabo, Rokamat, and several others.
-- Hoses are forward/backward compatible with Festool.?
-- I have a and a Metabo vac, both of which have seen extensive on-site service.
-- The Mafell is my "daily driver" and lives in the van, I keep it setup with sleeve liner bags for general use.?
-- The Metabo is setup for cementitious dust extraction, including drywall sanding, concrete/stucco cutting, concrete grinding, breaking, etc.... I keep this vac set up with the poly liner bags.?
-- Scope of delivery varies widely, so makes sure you're looking to see whether you're getting HEPA filters, anti-static hoses, etc....?
-- One advantage of the Starmix iPulse vacs is that they have an internal sensor which measures airflow, and only pulse/clean the filters when airflow drops below a set value. This compares favorably to most of the other vacs with an auto clean function which usually activates every ~15 seconds or so, whether it's necessary or not, which can get old if you're running it for hours on end and have to listen to it pulse every 15 seconds......?
-- One down side of the Starmix vacs is that when they do pulse, it's a rapid pulsing of one filter, then the other. It's fine if you're accustomed to it, but it can be starting for clients the first time they hear it. In 2017 I had the opportunity to visit the Mafell factory in Germany, which has Heckler and Koch as a neighbor. The Mafell trainer joked that "we never use our vacuums outdoors, for fear that our neighbors will shoot back!". Let it never be said the Germans don't have a sense of humor.?
?
I'll leave you with some great videos showing some torture tests of the iPulse vacuums, there's over a dozen but these are some of my favorites:?
?
Bier Fest: ?
?
Der Bauernhof: ?
?
Der Allesauger Teil 2: ?
?
Der Saugkraft Test: ?
?
There are plenty more videos of hitting the vac with a sledgehammer, dropping metal debris on it, dragging behind a car, etc.... Love that music!?
--
Tom Gensmer Heritage Home Renewals, LLC Minneapolis, MN |
|
|
Re: BF6-31 - planer infeed and outfeed roller adjustment
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Bill,I am out of town so don¡¯t have access to my notes. I will need to read your msg a few times with no distractions to understand what you are after but The main thing you need to know is the relative distance between the roller and cutterhead. I would not worry about the variation with each, the cutter head and the roller. You can verify these individually. My cutterhead is +/- 0.001¡±. I have never measured the roller but it should be close but likely not as tight a tolerance. Eitherway, just ask felder what the relative difference should be, unless composts here. I only check the height at each end and the middle from the planer bed. Sorry if this is not what you are after. Imran Malik On Oct 6, 2024, at 3:59?AM, Bill Webb via groups.io <wawebb1@...> wrote:
? I have learned a lot by following?questions and responses in this group over the?last few years, and I now?have a question of my?own. ? I am working on adjusting and setting up a BF6-31, and with the help of David Best's Survival Guides I have made good progress.? I just replaced the bearings on the cutterhead, ?the infeed roller, and the outfeed roller, ?and I now want to set the lowermost position of both rollers in a rest state, with nothing touching the?underside of the rollers other than a dial caliper.? My plan is to use a Oneway gauge to measure the height from the planer table to the lowest point on the cutterhead, and then to adjust?each side of each roller?to make the lowest point of each roller parallel to the lowest point of the cutterhead at each side. ? My problem is that I do not know whether to adjust the rollers to make the height of the lowest point of the roller to be equal to the height of the lowest point of the cutterhead, or greater or less than the height of the lowest point of the?cutterhead by a distance x.? To be specific, I am trying to find out what value I should use for x: x=0 (the height of the lowest part of the roller is equal to the height of the lowest point of the cutterhead), x=some positive number?(the height of the lowest part of the roller is greater than the height of the lowest point of the cutterhead), or?x=some negative number (the height of the lowest part of the roller is less than the height of the lowest point of the cutterhead).? It may be that the value of x is different for the two rollers. I would appreciate any thoughts as to what is the best value of x to use in adjusting the infeed and outfeed rollers.? Thanks for any help you can give me. Bill Webb |
|
Albert Lee
PK
Tom Gensmer
Jonathan Smith
Jason Holtz
imran
martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
Designing and building for 50 years
Dan Gavrilyuk
David P. Best