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Re: Wax/oil finishes
Jason, good point about the wax in these products. I did make a sample and the poly went on fine and still ok after a couple days. Way back when we did cabinets using glazes, stains and catalyzed topcoats we would test for compatibility by putting samples in the freezer overnight and out in the sun. I also hate poly but worried about the high usage on this bar. I have some time on this and will also look into going over this with Livos.
I am very pleased with the way the Rubio chocolate color went on the white oak. The wood had a lot of color variation and the stain evened it all out with no blotches. Very easy to apply on flat surfaces but tedious on the moulding. |
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Re: Wax/oil finishes
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Mike:
Can you give more specifics on this product? Emmet¡¯s urethane gel or ¡? Thanks!
Warm regards,
Lucky
Dr David Luckensmeyer
From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Mike Blake via groups.io <me.blake@...>
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2024 11:40:27 AM To: [email protected] <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [FOG] Wax/oil finishes ?
We have used ¡®The Good Stuff¡¯ for the last 20+ years on butcher block tops. ?A little fussy to apply, (wipe on and off), and durable. ?Plus it¡¯s easy to touch up. ?Haven¡¯t found anything better, and looks pretty good on furniture too.
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Mike
M.E. Blake General Contractors?
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Re: Wax/oil finishes
I have only used Rubio twice.? It was the easiest thing to apply I have ever used, and smelled nice, sort of like honey, while it was going on as well.? I applied two coats, which drastically improved the sheen to something that looks like a matte?finish to me and everyone who has seen it.? A tiny bit goes a very long way.? Three years later (it's abar cabinet), it looks exactly as it did when I finished applying it.? That is curly cherry, not "blotching" in case anyone was concerned.? Jeff On Sat, Sep 14, 2024 at 10:53?AM Joe Calhoon via <joecalhoon=[email protected]> wrote: I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don¡¯t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels. |
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Re: Wax/oil finishes
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHi Joe and others: ? I very much appreciate all the commentary on real-world use. This discussion simply adds to the data and helps keep us all informed. ? Jason, I¡¯ve also found that Livos counter-top oil is far more water repellent then just Livos Kunos (which is what I tested). I wanted to review another 8 products, and the variations, but the editor needed to keep the review a manageable size for the mag. One thing I¡¯ve found, which people seem to be confirming here, is that more product usually means more durability or water resistance. Hardwax oils are not ¡°supposed¡± to be film finishes, but when applied as a film, or as a hybrid (one or more coats film and one or more coats rubbed in), there is a noticeable uptick in qualities. ? The exceptions are Rubio and Odie¡¯s Oil which seem fairly ¡°durable¡± buffed only. I completely agree that Odie¡¯s is a lot of work and I¡¯m wary of reports here and elsewhere that it does not last. As for Rubio, I¡¯m appreciating the feedback here. Agreed Joe, it is a lot of work in fiddly areas and I personally would probably avoid it. Except for staining. Hardwax oils are so easy to use when different tints are needed. ? I have no experience with putting poly over the top of any hardwax oil so I¡¯m reading the various comments here with interest. I personally hate the look of poly, but I get the need to minimise call-backs. Joe, your comment about varnish takes me back 35 years to a roll-top desk I made with Behlen¡¯s Rock Hard Table Top Varnish. What a brute of a finish to apply but it is still going today. ? There is really not a lot new under the sun. Do yourself a favour and buy Bob Flexner¡¯s book on finishing. It is so well written and clearly backed up by real-world experience. What I love most about his book is that he encourages ¡°breaking the rules¡± and teaches what works (combos, application, etc.) and what doesn¡¯t work and why. Well worth it. ? I suspect that some or all of the hardwax oils have polymerised oil in them. Polymerised oil is much harder than normal oil. Flexner goes into the details. That said, if I were in the USA I¡¯d use Sutherland Welles polymerised oil. I used to be able to get it here but not for more than 25 years. It is a fantastic product (or used to be). David Best has recent experience with it. By the way, Odie¡¯s Oil was the only oil that would not harden in the drying tests. Even several weeks later it was a stick puddle of mess. That tells me it cannot last as there is no resin and no poylmerised oil in them (both of which cure hard). ? Thanks a lot for the discussion. ? Warm regards, Lucky ? Dr David Luckensmeyer ? From:
[email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of Joe Calhoon via groups.io <joecalhoon@...> I know the poly defeats the idea of Rubio but I just don¡¯t want the customer calling me with staining issues. Commercial bar is a tough go. Also going to talk to Todd about Waterlox
now that it was mentioned. The Rubio stain turned out nice. Very laborious to apply especially the moulding and raised panels. |
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýMac,Thankfully you told me about negative hook angle blades when I got my Northfield Unipoint. ?The Unipoint made a great cutoff saw, was very smooth and never bogged down. Joe?
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Re: Version 2.0 Fritz & Franz jig
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýJoe, Rebuilt my first 94 d in 75 they swing in parallelogram straight line.They require a negative rake saw blade I have an 18¡± leitz on saw so 5.5¡± cut off capacity.s people in Ohio They probably had a positive rake and poorly set up.? Any blade over top should be zip to negative few degrees. The 94 d weights close to 2000# 7.5 hp 3600 direct motor drive. This is not ?a set up for the average person? You need mill wright ?skills ,,,lots going on . I consider the saw very safe as saws go? So you can just set material against fence were you want ? Not holding and slam it through !! I have a clamp on it just cause I can! I bought this saw in 2002 and and finally got it up and running couple months ago. Built dust shoot with phenolic inserts so dust is captured of the tip and up the blow pipe .? Maya stops are finest bar none supper heavy duty very precise And quick to set . ?Mac,, martin/campshure/co/llc Designing and building for 50 years On Sep 15, 2024, at 10:42?AM, bacchus6015 via groups.io <joeinno@...> wrote:
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mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell
On Sep 15, 2024, at 9:13?AM, DanielD via groups.io <dan@...> wrote:
?[Edited Message Follows]
I did the same¡ love it! I set the TSO tracks back 3/4¡± from the saw blade (don¡¯t want it touching the aluminum) and attached a replaceable piece of hardwood to trim flush and prevent spelching on the back of the cut. The TSO stops are super easy to recalibrate if the edging is replaced.Sorry, can¡¯t post pictures, camping in the Rockies right now :-)?--Daniel Day
Kitchener, Ontario, Canada