On Jun 1, 2022, at 4:19 PM, Terence via <terencewoolston@...> wrote:

Imran: ?Year of production 2013, schematic shows 230V …no 208V tap. ?Brake board has no display window. ?Agreed on the low voltage…just no one can tell me how to re-set the machine parameters to deal with the 208V. ?Terry

On Jun 1, 2022, at 4:04 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Terence,

My first guess would be that these voltages being low is the problem. Most digital circuits have low tolerance for low supply voltages.

What yr is your machine? Does your schematic show 208V tap?

Does your brake board flash any codes?

Imran Malik

On Jun 1, 2022, at 3:49 PM, Terence via??<terencewoolston@...> wrote:

?Imran: ?The 5T1 does not have a 208V setting, only 230V with the +/-10%. ?Yes, it will start but not run. ?The secondary voltages on the right side of 5T1 are low, 20V although in the 30V slot. ?Terry

On Jun 1, 2022, at 3:29 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Terence,

Not sure what year is your machine but mine is from 2011. Because of some experiences, I can share some information that may be useful.

First, per the schematic the start function is built into the brake board. I have seen the brake board and it looks just the same as in my K975 (just higher current rating due to 7.53KW on dual51 vs 5.5KW on K975). I did have the brake board go out on K975 and it would not start at all. It also blinked a 2 digit code, which I think was 55 but I am not positive. Point being it would not turn the motor, your case seems different.

Now there are 2 transformers in the machine. It would make perfect sense that on 5T1 you would need to move the L1 connection to 208V tab so all voltages shown on secondary are correct. You should be able to verify these voltages as well.

<image0.jpeg>

This is the 2T1, responsible for the 24VAC. It does not have a 208V tab. This would indicate to me that the 24VAC circuit is tolerant of 208V input.

<image2.jpeg>

HTH.

Imran Malik

On Jun 1, 2022, at 2:49 PM, Terence via??<terencewoolston@...> wrote:

?All:

I need HELP. I moved my 7.35kw Dual 51 from a shop with 240V to a shop condo with 208V (two legs from a 3 phase utility supply to a single phase panel). ?The Dual runs on a Phase Perfect Phase converter. ?The Dual worked fine in the old shop but will not run in the new...it starts up but when it hits full speed it shuts down.

I called Felder and they said to change the transformer tap to +10 to make up for the 208 to 230. ?This did nothing...same issue. ?Now the recommendation is to replace the brake board as this handles the task from start to run modes. ?I have no confidence in that analysis as it worked just fine with 240V supply. ?In any case, since I am in the middle of a multi piece furniture production I absolutely must have the Dual operational. ?I ordered the brake board but want trouble shooting advice from some of the electrical experts that know Felder and frequent the FOG.

Help!!

Best, Terry

On Jun 1, 2022, at 4:04 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Terence,

My first guess would be that these voltages being low is the problem. Most digital circuits have low tolerance for low supply voltages.

What yr is your machine? Does your schematic show 208V tap?

Does your brake board flash any codes?

Imran Malik

On Jun 1, 2022, at 3:49 PM, Terence via <terencewoolston@...> wrote:

?Imran: ?The 5T1 does not have a 208V setting, only 230V with the +/-10%. ?Yes, it will start but not run. ?The secondary voltages on the right side of 5T1 are low, 20V although in the 30V slot. ?Terry

On Jun 1, 2022, at 3:29 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Terence,

Not sure what year is your machine but mine is from 2011. Because of some experiences, I can share some information that may be useful.

First, per the schematic the start function is built into the brake board. I have seen the brake board and it looks just the same as in my K975 (just higher current rating due to 7.53KW on dual51 vs 5.5KW on K975). I did have the brake board go out on K975 and it would not start at all. It also blinked a 2 digit code, which I think was 55 but I am not positive. Point being it would not turn the motor, your case seems different.

Now there are 2 transformers in the machine. It would make perfect sense that on 5T1 you would need to move the L1 connection to 208V tab so all voltages shown on secondary are correct. You should be able to verify these voltages as well.

<image0.jpeg>

This is the 2T1, responsible for the 24VAC. It does not have a 208V tab. This would indicate to me that the 24VAC circuit is tolerant of 208V input.

<image2.jpeg>

HTH.

Imran Malik

On Jun 1, 2022, at 2:49 PM, Terence via <terencewoolston@...> wrote:

?All:

I need HELP. I moved my 7.35kw Dual 51 from a shop with 240V to a shop condo with 208V (two legs from a 3 phase utility supply to a single phase panel). ?The Dual runs on a Phase Perfect Phase converter. ?The Dual worked fine in the old shop but will not run in the new...it starts up but when it hits full speed it shuts down.

I called Felder and they said to change the transformer tap to +10 to make up for the 208 to 230. ?This did nothing...same issue. ?Now the recommendation is to replace the brake board as this handles the task from start to run modes. ?I have no confidence in that analysis as it worked just fine with 240V supply. ?In any case, since I am in the middle of a multi piece furniture production I absolutely must have the Dual operational. ?I ordered the brake board but want trouble shooting advice from some of the electrical experts that know Felder and frequent the FOG.

Help!!

Best, Terry

On Jun 1, 2022, at 3:29 PM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Terence,

Not sure what year is your machine but mine is from 2011. Because of some experiences, I can share some information that may be useful.

First, per the schematic the start function is built into the brake board. I have seen the brake board and it looks just the same as in my K975 (just higher current rating due to 7.53KW on dual51 vs 5.5KW on K975). I did have the brake board go out on K975 and it would not start at all. It also blinked a 2 digit code, which I think was 55 but I am not positive. Point being it would not turn the motor, your case seems different.

Now there are 2 transformers in the machine. It would make perfect sense that on 5T1 you would need to move the L1 connection to 208V tab so all voltages shown on secondary are correct. You should be able to verify these voltages as well.

<image0.jpeg>

This is the 2T1, responsible for the 24VAC. It does not have a 208V tab. This would indicate to me that the 24VAC circuit is tolerant of 208V input.

<image2.jpeg>

HTH.

Imran Malik

On Jun 1, 2022, at 2:49 PM, Terence via <terencewoolston@...> wrote:

?All:

I need HELP. I moved my 7.35kw Dual 51 from a shop with 240V to a shop condo with 208V (two legs from a 3 phase utility supply to a single phase panel). ?The Dual runs on a Phase Perfect Phase converter. ?The Dual worked fine in the old shop but will not run in the new...it starts up but when it hits full speed it shuts down.

I called Felder and they said to change the transformer tap to +10 to make up for the 208 to 230. ?This did nothing...same issue. ?Now the recommendation is to replace the brake board as this handles the task from start to run modes. ?I have no confidence in that analysis as it worked just fine with 240V supply. ?In any case, since I am in the middle of a multi piece furniture production I absolutely must have the Dual operational. ?I ordered the brake board but want trouble shooting advice from some of the electrical experts that know Felder and frequent the FOG.

Help!!

Best, Terry

On Jun 1, 2022, at 9:17 AM, bacchus6015 via <joeinno@...> wrote:

I had the 1100 table on my 2000 CF731. ?It came with an after market fine adjuster that mounted in the aluminum extrusion of the slot with the movable registration block. ?I could make very fine adjustments with the fine adjuster but found it to be a pain. Especially after learning how to square the large crosscut fence with a dial indicator and large square. ?Thank you David Best. ?

I rarely removed the large crosscut fence but even when I did it was simple to reinstall and bump the fence againts the stop, check with the large square and dial indicator then push the fence a little one way or another and tighten down. ?The large fence held square very well but a good bump could knock it out of calibration requiring a check with the big square and dial indicator.

After experiencing the X-roll table with the large calibration bump stop on the ends of the table I came to appreciate Brian Lamb’s mod to the old style table with the same bump stop. Brian’s mod is the way to go.

Joe?

On Jun 1, 2022, at 5:11 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Thanks David. I have asked if it is possible to add the registration feature of the current 1100 outrigger to the older model. Let’s see what I hear back.

Imran Malik

<IMG_8135.jpeg>

<IMG_8136.jpeg>

On Jun 1, 2022, at 5:11 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

Thanks David. I have asked if it is possible to add the registration feature of the current 1100 outrigger to the older model. Let’s see what I hear back.

Imran Malik

On Jun 1, 2022, at 4:41 AM, imranindiana <imranindiana@...> wrote:

David,

Here is one the Brad shared with me.

Imran Malik

On Jun 1, 2022, at 7:35 AM, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

?Would you please post a photo of your outrigger table that shows the entire table and crosscut fence. ?I can tell from your photos that your machine has an X-Roll sliding table, but the components that are related to the crosscut fence and how the outrigger table sits on the sliding table appear to be the smaller 1100 outrigger table. ?That outrigger is considerably different than the larger 1300 and 1500 outrigger tables supplied with longer sliding tables. ?Current versions of the 1100 outrigger table look like the following photo - and you can see the 90-degree registration stops on each side at the end of the outrigger table.

David Best

On Jun 1, 2022, at 3:46 AM, celestialgazer2001 <bradpj53@...> wrote:

I've been privately troubleshooting with the help of Imran on setting up my "new" 2004 KF700. There seems to be no provision for a squaring fine adjustment for the X-cut fence; the angle indexing rail has a locking hex nut at each end and the corresponding block has a simple sliding block. The saw end block threads into a hole (front or back) on the outrigger table itself. Is something missing or is this model just this crude? <IMG_3775.JPG><IMG_3776.JPG>

On Jun 1, 2022, at 3:46 AM, celestialgazer2001 <bradpj53@...> wrote:

I've been privately troubleshooting with the help of Imran on setting up my "new" 2004 KF700. There seems to be no provision for a squaring fine adjustment for the X-cut fence; the angle indexing rail has a locking hex nut at each end and the corresponding block has a simple sliding block. The saw end block threads into a hole (front or back) on the outrigger table itself. Is something missing or is this model just this crude? <IMG_3775.JPG><IMG_3776.JPG>

On May 31, 2022, at 7:13 AM, Paul Mc Cann <tpmccann@...> wrote:

?Initially I only saw Renaissance available in very small tins which was why I thought expensive. On a further search I found 3l avaialable for ?64 about $80 which seems very reasonable, ?79 ($100) delivered UK to Ireland?

--
Paul Mc Cann