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Re: working bump stop

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Brett,
Thanks for the details. John K method does not eliminate the bind it just reduces the friction by reducing the contact area. as the slider is moves fwd over 8¡¯ the material will still get 0.016¡± closer (based on .002¡±/ft slider toe out).?

John,
do you use it for xcut or long 8¡¯ rips? to me binding of 16 thou is still putting pressure that could be avoided. if it works on long rips, i will make one and try it before anything else.

imran

On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:12 AM, Brett Wissel <Brettwissel@...> wrote:

?
1. Its easier to leave rip fence unmodified so you know it is consistent.

2. Pick a spot on the slider travel you always index. I choose to slide mine all the way back until it hits the travel stop, then move stock across slider toward the rip fence until it makes contact.

3. Verify test cut is indeed what you want.if not, adjust rip fence width accordingly and verify it is now correct.

4. Wider stock will contact rip fence further back than narrow stock using this method because the rip fence toe out means the back corner of the stock will contact the rip fence, not the front. So adding John Kee's magswitch point block he showed in prior message will ensure consistency at that same bump stop point regardless of the stock width.

5. Don't worry about it anymore, you've mastered this task now.

On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 9:22 AM jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:
Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......


Jonathan



On Thu, 24 Sep 2020, 16:12 "jmkserv@..., <jmkserv@...> wrote:
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: "imranindiana via " <imranindiana=[email protected]>
Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [FOG] working bump stop

now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1¡± vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don¡¯t like it.

so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.

so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out?

what would i be missing if i do that?

David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....

imran









Re: working bump stop

 

1. Its easier to leave rip fence unmodified so you know it is consistent.

2. Pick a spot on the slider travel you always index. I choose to slide mine all the way back until it hits the travel stop, then move stock across slider toward the rip fence until it makes contact.

3. Verify test cut is indeed what you want.if not, adjust rip fence width accordingly and verify it is now correct.

4. Wider stock will contact rip fence further back than narrow stock using this method because the rip fence toe out means the back corner of the stock will contact the rip fence, not the front. So adding John Kee's magswitch point block he showed in prior message will ensure consistency at that same bump stop point regardless of the stock width.

5. Don't worry about it anymore, you've mastered this task now.

On Thu, Sep 24, 2020, 9:22 AM jontathan samways <jonathansamways@...> wrote:
Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......


Jonathan



On Thu, 24 Sep 2020, 16:12 "jmkserv@..., <jmkserv@...> wrote:
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: "imranindiana via " <imranindiana=[email protected]>
Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [FOG] working bump stop

now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1¡± vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don¡¯t like it.

so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.

so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out?

what would i be missing if i do that?

David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....

imran









Re: working bump stop

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

my question was really to folks who use the tape or another method to have 0 toe-out on rip and asking them if they use it for any other purpose than bump out. if there is no other use then i might as well make it parallel to slider.

imran

On Sep 24, 2020, at 11:06 AM, Imran Malik <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?
John,

i remembered and mentioned a narrow piece along the fence as an option but must be from Duluth, no pinch no stink ?

imran

On Sep 24, 2020, at 10:12 AM, "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:

?
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...>
Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [FOG] working bump stop

now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1¡± vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don¡¯t like it.

so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.

so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out?

what would i be missing if i do that?

David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....

imran








<20160819_114118_resized.jpg>


Re: working bump stop

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

John,

i remembered and mentioned a narrow piece along the fence as an option but must be from Duluth, no pinch no stink ?

imran

On Sep 24, 2020, at 10:12 AM, "jmkserv@... <jmkserv@...> wrote:

?
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...>
Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [FOG] working bump stop

now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1¡± vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don¡¯t like it.

so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.

so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out?

what would i be missing if i do that?

David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....

imran








<20160819_114118_resized.jpg>


Re: working bump stop

 

Or a piece of thick paper between the back of the aluminium fence where it tightens up against fence casting......


Jonathan



On Thu, 24 Sep 2020, 16:12 "jmkserv@..., <jmkserv@...> wrote:
I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: "imranindiana via " <imranindiana=[email protected]>
Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [FOG] working bump stop

now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1¡± vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don¡¯t like it.

so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.

so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out?

what would i be missing if i do that?

David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....

imran









Re: CMT sale @ Scott & Sargent

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

i should clarify, the dado i ordered will only work for 900 series (not sure if true for all models and vintages) as it does not have the 2 pin holes. just 30mm bore.

imran

On Sep 24, 2020, at 8:21 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?i was looking for a dado for K975. Amana (CMT sourced) had the best price. not sure if they are as good as forrest or ridge carbide. anyhow, could not find them in USA, despite websites showing them as apparently 30mm bore is being discontinued.

S&S had one and it is $260 shipped to me vs $400 for above mentioned. ordered yesterday. got shipped notice today and expected delivery on monday. that is impressive.

did see bunch of other CMT items on sale but they might be on sale here as well. had a hard time skipping this adj groover


as it would have completed the typical set - i have 4-15mm but mine is steel and this is AL.

anyhow, sharing in case someone is in need of pandemic set boredom relief ?

imran


Re: working bump stop

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

I've posted this 1/2 dozen times in the last few years, what's one more time.?



John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: "imranindiana via groups.io" <imranindiana@...>
Date: 2020-09-24 9:27 a.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [FOG] working bump stop

now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1¡± vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don¡¯t like it.

so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.

so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop)? instead of 0 toe out?

what would i be missing if i do that?

David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....

imran









Re: working bump stop

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Tape on the end of the fence if your that anal , wouldn¡¯t ?worry about slider toe out. I am ready for a bashing on this recommendation...??

Regards, Mark

On Sep 24, 2020, at 9:27 AM, imranindiana via groups.io <imranindiana@...> wrote:

?now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1¡± vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don¡¯t like it.

so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.

so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) ?instead of 0 toe out?

what would i be missing if i do that?

David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....

imran









working bump stop

 

now that i have an outrigger i am cutting sheets. so far i have been using rip fence for setting the cut line, clamp, push away rip fence and cut. i thought about clamping a narrow piece to rip fence so material is rubbing against 1¡± vs the entire length of rip fence but it is still being constrained and i don¡¯t like it.

so my thought was to do the tape on the leading edge of rip fence trick so when i have it clamped (pulled back there is no toe-out in the rip fence). but there will still be slider toe-out to deal with.

so my question is, should the rip fence be adjusted to the trajectory of slider (toe-in) for this purpose (use as bump stop) instead of 0 toe out?

what would i be missing if i do that?

David B, i did look thru the survival guide this time ....

imran


CMT sale @ Scott & Sargent

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

i was looking for a dado for K975. Amana (CMT sourced) had the best price. not sure if they are as good as forrest or ridge carbide. anyhow, could not find them in USA, despite websites showing them as apparently 30mm bore is being discontinued.

S&S had one and it is $260 shipped to me vs $400 for above mentioned. ordered yesterday. got shipped notice today and expected delivery on monday. that is impressive.

did see bunch of other CMT items on sale but they might be on sale here as well. had a hard time skipping this adj groover


as it would have completed the typical set - i have 4-15mm but mine is steel and this is AL.

anyhow, sharing in case someone is in need of pandemic set boredom relief ?

imran


Re: Lucky's Kitchen Videos #kitchendesign

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Mark,

that is a good point. i know the door test is done by pressurizing the structure. but i have never bothered to quantify 50 pascals of differential pressure.

imran

On Sep 23, 2020, at 11:28 AM, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

?On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 05:01 AM, imranindiana wrote:
my comment was without any appliance/fans. 0.3 ACH stringent standard still means that the leaks in the house will result in a complete air exchange in about 3hrs.
?
Understood.? I was just noting the relationship between a range hood and that standard.

Btw, it seems like you're interpreting the standard as if it were an expression of natural airflow in the absence of mechanical ventilation, but that it not at all what the standard is about nor what it measures.? In no way does it imply that "leaks in the house will result in a complete air exchange in about 3hrs." In fact, without any fans, ACH will be zero, whether the house is rated at 0.3 ACH or 30 ACH.? ?

The standard is an expression of the uncontrollable ventilation in an unbalanced system.? It's saying that if your HVAC system inflow and outflow is out of balance such that it resulted in a 50 pascal pressure differential, you'd have an additional 0.3 ACH above ventilation system's?design ACH rate (typically 5-10 ACH)?

In the olden days, most residential HVAC systems were unbalanced by design.? ?The furnace or AC system pumps air from outside to the inside, creating positive internal pressure, and the air exits through open doors and windows and leaks through closed doors and windows and other parts of the building envelope.? When you're heating or cooling the incoming air, you're "losing" the energy invested when you send that air back outside.? ?Such systems also often have much higher ACH rates than is needed to maintain "fresh" air.? An energy efficient system seeks to minimize the ACH down to the level needed to maintain fresh air (5-10 ACH), and to recover the energy of the exiting heated/cooled air and transfer that energy to the incoming air.? ? To do this predictably, you need to minimize the potentially uncontrolled airflow, which is that the standard is about.? ?


Re: Lucky's Kitchen Videos #kitchendesign

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The bottom line is do you like what you have created? It's doesn't matter what I or anyone else thinks or says or what their opinion is. You live in and use that space not them. The discussion might help someone else make choices in their own design and further improve any future designs of your own.?


John
JMK Services


-------- Original message --------
From: David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...>
Date: 2020-09-23 7:52 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
Subject: Re: [FOG] Lucky's Kitchen Videos #kitchendesign

But what are the definitions of ¡°good taste¡± and ¡°good pre-understanding¡±?
As my Sunday-school teacher oft-said: ¡°Who are you to say you are ¡®good¡¯!¡± LOL

Lucky


On 24 Sep 2020, at 9:40 am, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

As an architect once said to me ¡°To be successful in this trade, you not only need good taste, but you need good pre-understanding.¡±

David Best







On Sep 23, 2020, at 4:18 PM, habacomike via <habacomike@...> wrote:

Lucky, ?no doubt ¡°preunderstanding¡± has something to do with it. ?But so does taste. ?There¡¯s all sorts of ways to ¡°judge¡± design ¡ª efficient use of materials, in accord with some elements of a design ¡°standard,¡± pleasing according to some sort of aesthetic guide, and/or efficient in the use of space, etc. ?But inherently, judging design will be a matter of individual preference. ?So, don¡¯t take anyone¡¯s judgment of your design ¡ª it¡¯s their opinion and background, and who knows what specifically they are using to arise at a judgment. ?Rather I think you are noting the important aspect of design discussions ¡ª learning. ?That is learning why someone values a particular design or how they think it might be improved. ?All design, like all art, is derivative; so exploring other¡¯s opinions can broaden horizons.

I think that¡¯s what you are more or less saying, but the important aspect here is that taste is an important aspect of judging design, and there¡¯s no accounting for that.

Mike

On Sep 23, 2020, at 3:53 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Mark:

I used preunderstanding because I hoped it was sufficiently banal to be understood in context. In truth, it is a rather loaded concept and you are right to question what it means (to me). Thank you.

Your online search was sufficiently vague to be unhelpful, although it redeems in one respect ¡ª the term is often used in relation to biblical research. However, despite its links to theology, there is an atavism to the concept which is more philosophical than theological, and derives notions of meaning, existence, and even existentialism. In my previous emails, I referred to ¡°ideology¡± as a way of summarising and condensing the issues of pre-understanding in a contemporary way. I use the word ideology in a broader sense ¡ª not just to refer to economics or politics ¡ª but sociology, history, and culture.

When I approach a situation like a kitchen design, my "ideological kitchen" is informed by previous experiences, previous discussions (like this one), previous prejudices and ignorances, previous education in all spheres. I might prefer timber finishes because I am a woodworker. I might prefer stainless steel kicks because of the influence of my architect uncle. I might prefer a spartan/clean look because it reminds me of a poorer upbringing when I had less. I might be more testy with you than with the next guy because you happened to use a combination of terms or phrases that was reminiscent of persons who bullied me in my youth. Each of these examples are illustrative of, or formative to, my view of a ¡°good kitchen¡±; my ideological kitchen. These precursors have nothing to do with whether my kitchen has good design or not, and yet they have everything to do with whether my kitchen has good design ¡°for me¡±.

When I use the term pre-understanding, I¡¯m invoking all that goes before me, my American heritage, my white skin, my relentlessly religious upbringing, my experiences in outback Australian schools, my exposures to woodworkers and woodworking techniques, trade magazines on kitchen design, my extensive tertiary education, social influences, political influences, familial influences, etc. ad?nauseam. I make so many assumptions and decisions on the basis of previously lived experiences.

When people come together with relatively parallel pre-understandings, they often find comfort in a shared and reinforced ideology. I know I do. Groups like the FOG are powerful and important because of a shared ideology. (As an aside, I find the sociology of online communities amazingly complex and interesting.) Lots of members here piled in on my kitchen design and we reinforced common ground on what we think is good design. If I¡¯m honest, the positive comments made me feel good. Likewise, when John K. calls me on my bandsaw judgements, I don¡¯t feel so good. But then when I allow myself permission to get behind the emails, behind the texts, and into the realms of understanding and assumptions, I am able to give myself permission to learn, and to feel OK about it. So I reach out to John K. with a conciliatory email and it lets him know that our relatively parallel pre-understandings are strong enough that we can disagree from time to time (even quite strongly) and still enjoy each other¡¯s repartee. Right John? :-)

What is more important to me, indeed what is of existential importance, is not so much the social acceptance or rejection of the FOG member¡¯s views on my kitchen (the desire to feel ¡°good¡±), but the getting behind photos and videos and words, the getting behind my intentional (whether conscious or unconscious) framing of the subject matter, and understanding (pre-understanding) reality itself. I believe we can only understand reality through case-studies like my kitchen design. There is far too much here to unpack, and much of the philosophical roots of the discussion goes beyond my expertise, but I find meaning in understanding myself, and understanding those around me. Meaning is self-chosen, and depending on what is chosen leads to the proverbial experiences of ¡°heaven¡± or ¡°hell¡±. I¡¯ve made hellish choices on many occasions in my life and I¡¯m seeking, more and more, to understand what goes into those choices so I may make different ones.

I wrote the above with the best of intentions and hope I have not offended anyone. As I age (I¡¯m in my mid-forties), I¡¯m realising that I want to be less offended and offensive, less fundamental, more open, more giving and more understanding of others and myself. Obviously, I have a long way to go! :-)

Take care.

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 23 Sep 2020, at 10:35 am, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Lucky, what does "pre-understanding" mean to you?? It's not in the dictionary and the only thing I found in a quick online search is:

"preunderstanding?includes anything and everything we understand, believe, or assume before we study the Bible"

? ?





Re: Lucky's Kitchen Videos #kitchendesign

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

But what are the definitions of ¡°good taste¡± and ¡°good pre-understanding¡±?
As my Sunday-school teacher oft-said: ¡°Who are you to say you are ¡®good¡¯!¡± LOL

Lucky


On 24 Sep 2020, at 9:40 am, david@... via <david@...> wrote:

As an architect once said to me ¡°To be successful in this trade, you not only need good taste, but you need good pre-understanding.¡±

David Best







On Sep 23, 2020, at 4:18 PM, habacomike via <habacomike@...> wrote:

Lucky, ?no doubt ¡°preunderstanding¡± has something to do with it. ?But so does taste. ?There¡¯s all sorts of ways to ¡°judge¡± design ¡ª efficient use of materials, in accord with some elements of a design ¡°standard,¡± pleasing according to some sort of aesthetic guide, and/or efficient in the use of space, etc. ?But inherently, judging design will be a matter of individual preference. ?So, don¡¯t take anyone¡¯s judgment of your design ¡ª it¡¯s their opinion and background, and who knows what specifically they are using to arise at a judgment. ?Rather I think you are noting the important aspect of design discussions ¡ª learning. ?That is learning why someone values a particular design or how they think it might be improved. ?All design, like all art, is derivative; so exploring other¡¯s opinions can broaden horizons.

I think that¡¯s what you are more or less saying, but the important aspect here is that taste is an important aspect of judging design, and there¡¯s no accounting for that.

Mike

On Sep 23, 2020, at 3:53 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Mark:

I used preunderstanding because I hoped it was sufficiently banal to be understood in context. In truth, it is a rather loaded concept and you are right to question what it means (to me). Thank you.

Your online search was sufficiently vague to be unhelpful, although it redeems in one respect ¡ª the term is often used in relation to biblical research. However, despite its links to theology, there is an atavism to the concept which is more philosophical than theological, and derives notions of meaning, existence, and even existentialism. In my previous emails, I referred to ¡°ideology¡± as a way of summarising and condensing the issues of pre-understanding in a contemporary way. I use the word ideology in a broader sense ¡ª not just to refer to economics or politics ¡ª but sociology, history, and culture.

When I approach a situation like a kitchen design, my "ideological kitchen" is informed by previous experiences, previous discussions (like this one), previous prejudices and ignorances, previous education in all spheres. I might prefer timber finishes because I am a woodworker. I might prefer stainless steel kicks because of the influence of my architect uncle. I might prefer a spartan/clean look because it reminds me of a poorer upbringing when I had less. I might be more testy with you than with the next guy because you happened to use a combination of terms or phrases that was reminiscent of persons who bullied me in my youth. Each of these examples are illustrative of, or formative to, my view of a ¡°good kitchen¡±; my ideological kitchen. These precursors have nothing to do with whether my kitchen has good design or not, and yet they have everything to do with whether my kitchen has good design ¡°for me¡±.

When I use the term pre-understanding, I¡¯m invoking all that goes before me, my American heritage, my white skin, my relentlessly religious upbringing, my experiences in outback Australian schools, my exposures to woodworkers and woodworking techniques, trade magazines on kitchen design, my extensive tertiary education, social influences, political influences, familial influences, etc. ad?nauseam. I make so many assumptions and decisions on the basis of previously lived experiences.

When people come together with relatively parallel pre-understandings, they often find comfort in a shared and reinforced ideology. I know I do. Groups like the FOG are powerful and important because of a shared ideology. (As an aside, I find the sociology of online communities amazingly complex and interesting.) Lots of members here piled in on my kitchen design and we reinforced common ground on what we think is good design. If I¡¯m honest, the positive comments made me feel good. Likewise, when John K. calls me on my bandsaw judgements, I don¡¯t feel so good. But then when I allow myself permission to get behind the emails, behind the texts, and into the realms of understanding and assumptions, I am able to give myself permission to learn, and to feel OK about it. So I reach out to John K. with a conciliatory email and it lets him know that our relatively parallel pre-understandings are strong enough that we can disagree from time to time (even quite strongly) and still enjoy each other¡¯s repartee. Right John? :-)

What is more important to me, indeed what is of existential importance, is not so much the social acceptance or rejection of the FOG member¡¯s views on my kitchen (the desire to feel ¡°good¡±), but the getting behind photos and videos and words, the getting behind my intentional (whether conscious or unconscious) framing of the subject matter, and understanding (pre-understanding) reality itself. I believe we can only understand reality through case-studies like my kitchen design. There is far too much here to unpack, and much of the philosophical roots of the discussion goes beyond my expertise, but I find meaning in understanding myself, and understanding those around me. Meaning is self-chosen, and depending on what is chosen leads to the proverbial experiences of ¡°heaven¡± or ¡°hell¡±. I¡¯ve made hellish choices on many occasions in my life and I¡¯m seeking, more and more, to understand what goes into those choices so I may make different ones.

I wrote the above with the best of intentions and hope I have not offended anyone. As I age (I¡¯m in my mid-forties), I¡¯m realising that I want to be less offended and offensive, less fundamental, more open, more giving and more understanding of others and myself. Obviously, I have a long way to go! :-)

Take care.

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 23 Sep 2020, at 10:35 am, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Lucky, what does "pre-understanding" mean to you?? It's not in the dictionary and the only thing I found in a quick online search is:

"preunderstanding?includes anything and everything we understand, believe, or assume before we study the Bible"

? ?





Re: Lucky's Kitchen Videos #kitchendesign

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

As an architect once said to me ¡°To be successful in this trade, you not only need good taste, but you need good pre-understanding.¡±

David Best

https://www.instagram.com/davidpbest/





On Sep 23, 2020, at 4:18 PM, habacomike via <habacomike@...> wrote:

Lucky, ?no doubt ¡°preunderstanding¡± has something to do with it. ?But so does taste. ?There¡¯s all sorts of ways to ¡°judge¡± design ¡ª efficient use of materials, in accord with some elements of a design ¡°standard,¡± pleasing according to some sort of aesthetic guide, and/or efficient in the use of space, etc. ?But inherently, judging design will be a matter of individual preference. ?So, don¡¯t take anyone¡¯s judgment of your design ¡ª it¡¯s their opinion and background, and who knows what specifically they are using to arise at a judgment. ?Rather I think you are noting the important aspect of design discussions ¡ª learning. ?That is learning why someone values a particular design or how they think it might be improved. ?All design, like all art, is derivative; so exploring other¡¯s opinions can broaden horizons.

I think that¡¯s what you are more or less saying, but the important aspect here is that taste is an important aspect of judging design, and there¡¯s no accounting for that.

Mike

On Sep 23, 2020, at 3:53 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Mark:

I used preunderstanding because I hoped it was sufficiently banal to be understood in context. In truth, it is a rather loaded concept and you are right to question what it means (to me). Thank you.

Your online search was sufficiently vague to be unhelpful, although it redeems in one respect ¡ª the term is often used in relation to biblical research. However, despite its links to theology, there is an atavism to the concept which is more philosophical than theological, and derives notions of meaning, existence, and even existentialism. In my previous emails, I referred to ¡°ideology¡± as a way of summarising and condensing the issues of pre-understanding in a contemporary way. I use the word ideology in a broader sense ¡ª not just to refer to economics or politics ¡ª but sociology, history, and culture.

When I approach a situation like a kitchen design, my "ideological kitchen" is informed by previous experiences, previous discussions (like this one), previous prejudices and ignorances, previous education in all spheres. I might prefer timber finishes because I am a woodworker. I might prefer stainless steel kicks because of the influence of my architect uncle. I might prefer a spartan/clean look because it reminds me of a poorer upbringing when I had less. I might be more testy with you than with the next guy because you happened to use a combination of terms or phrases that was reminiscent of persons who bullied me in my youth. Each of these examples are illustrative of, or formative to, my view of a ¡°good kitchen¡±; my ideological kitchen. These precursors have nothing to do with whether my kitchen has good design or not, and yet they have everything to do with whether my kitchen has good design ¡°for me¡±.

When I use the term pre-understanding, I¡¯m invoking all that goes before me, my American heritage, my white skin, my relentlessly religious upbringing, my experiences in outback Australian schools, my exposures to woodworkers and woodworking techniques, trade magazines on kitchen design, my extensive tertiary education, social influences, political influences, familial influences, etc. ad?nauseam. I make so many assumptions and decisions on the basis of previously lived experiences.

When people come together with relatively parallel pre-understandings, they often find comfort in a shared and reinforced ideology. I know I do. Groups like the FOG are powerful and important because of a shared ideology. (As an aside, I find the sociology of online communities amazingly complex and interesting.) Lots of members here piled in on my kitchen design and we reinforced common ground on what we think is good design. If I¡¯m honest, the positive comments made me feel good. Likewise, when John K. calls me on my bandsaw judgements, I don¡¯t feel so good. But then when I allow myself permission to get behind the emails, behind the texts, and into the realms of understanding and assumptions, I am able to give myself permission to learn, and to feel OK about it. So I reach out to John K. with a conciliatory email and it lets him know that our relatively parallel pre-understandings are strong enough that we can disagree from time to time (even quite strongly) and still enjoy each other¡¯s repartee. Right John? :-)

What is more important to me, indeed what is of existential importance, is not so much the social acceptance or rejection of the FOG member¡¯s views on my kitchen (the desire to feel ¡°good¡±), but the getting behind photos and videos and words, the getting behind my intentional (whether conscious or unconscious) framing of the subject matter, and understanding (pre-understanding) reality itself. I believe we can only understand reality through case-studies like my kitchen design. There is far too much here to unpack, and much of the philosophical roots of the discussion goes beyond my expertise, but I find meaning in understanding myself, and understanding those around me. Meaning is self-chosen, and depending on what is chosen leads to the proverbial experiences of ¡°heaven¡± or ¡°hell¡±. I¡¯ve made hellish choices on many occasions in my life and I¡¯m seeking, more and more, to understand what goes into those choices so I may make different ones.

I wrote the above with the best of intentions and hope I have not offended anyone. As I age (I¡¯m in my mid-forties), I¡¯m realising that I want to be less offended and offensive, less fundamental, more open, more giving and more understanding of others and myself. Obviously, I have a long way to go! :-)

Take care.

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 23 Sep 2020, at 10:35 am, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Lucky, what does "pre-understanding" mean to you?? It's not in the dictionary and the only thing I found in a quick online search is:

"preunderstanding?includes anything and everything we understand, believe, or assume before we study the Bible"

? ?




Re: Lucky's Kitchen Videos #kitchendesign

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Lucky, ?no doubt ¡°preunderstanding¡± has something to do with it. ?But so does taste. ?There¡¯s all sorts of ways to ¡°judge¡± design ¡ª efficient use of materials, in accord with some elements of a design ¡°standard,¡± pleasing according to some sort of aesthetic guide, and/or efficient in the use of space, etc. ?But inherently, judging design will be a matter of individual preference. ?So, don¡¯t take anyone¡¯s judgment of your design ¡ª it¡¯s their opinion and background, and who knows what specifically they are using to arise at a judgment. ?Rather I think you are noting the important aspect of design discussions ¡ª learning. ?That is learning why someone values a particular design or how they think it might be improved. ?All design, like all art, is derivative; so exploring other¡¯s opinions can broaden horizons.

I think that¡¯s what you are more or less saying, but the important aspect here is that taste is an important aspect of judging design, and there¡¯s no accounting for that.

Mike

On Sep 23, 2020, at 3:53 PM, David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:

Hi Mark:

I used preunderstanding because I hoped it was sufficiently banal to be understood in context. In truth, it is a rather loaded concept and you are right to question what it means (to me). Thank you.

Your online search was sufficiently vague to be unhelpful, although it redeems in one respect ¡ª the term is often used in relation to biblical research. However, despite its links to theology, there is an atavism to the concept which is more philosophical than theological, and derives notions of meaning, existence, and even existentialism. In my previous emails, I referred to ¡°ideology¡± as a way of summarising and condensing the issues of pre-understanding in a contemporary way. I use the word ideology in a broader sense ¡ª not just to refer to economics or politics ¡ª but sociology, history, and culture.

When I approach a situation like a kitchen design, my "ideological kitchen" is informed by previous experiences, previous discussions (like this one), previous prejudices and ignorances, previous education in all spheres. I might prefer timber finishes because I am a woodworker. I might prefer stainless steel kicks because of the influence of my architect uncle. I might prefer a spartan/clean look because it reminds me of a poorer upbringing when I had less. I might be more testy with you than with the next guy because you happened to use a combination of terms or phrases that was reminiscent of persons who bullied me in my youth. Each of these examples are illustrative of, or formative to, my view of a ¡°good kitchen¡±; my ideological kitchen. These precursors have nothing to do with whether my kitchen has good design or not, and yet they have everything to do with whether my kitchen has good design ¡°for me¡±.

When I use the term pre-understanding, I¡¯m invoking all that goes before me, my American heritage, my white skin, my relentlessly religious upbringing, my experiences in outback Australian schools, my exposures to woodworkers and woodworking techniques, trade magazines on kitchen design, my extensive tertiary education, social influences, political influences, familial influences, etc. ad?nauseam. I make so many assumptions and decisions on the basis of previously lived experiences.

When people come together with relatively parallel pre-understandings, they often find comfort in a shared and reinforced ideology. I know I do. Groups like the FOG are powerful and important because of a shared ideology. (As an aside, I find the sociology of online communities amazingly complex and interesting.) Lots of members here piled in on my kitchen design and we reinforced common ground on what we think is good design. If I¡¯m honest, the positive comments made me feel good. Likewise, when John K. calls me on my bandsaw judgements, I don¡¯t feel so good. But then when I allow myself permission to get behind the emails, behind the texts, and into the realms of understanding and assumptions, I am able to give myself permission to learn, and to feel OK about it. So I reach out to John K. with a conciliatory email and it lets him know that our relatively parallel pre-understandings are strong enough that we can disagree from time to time (even quite strongly) and still enjoy each other¡¯s repartee. Right John? :-)

What is more important to me, indeed what is of existential importance, is not so much the social acceptance or rejection of the FOG member¡¯s views on my kitchen (the desire to feel ¡°good¡±), but the getting behind photos and videos and words, the getting behind my intentional (whether conscious or unconscious) framing of the subject matter, and understanding (pre-understanding) reality itself. I believe we can only understand reality through case-studies like my kitchen design. There is far too much here to unpack, and much of the philosophical roots of the discussion goes beyond my expertise, but I find meaning in understanding myself, and understanding those around me. Meaning is self-chosen, and depending on what is chosen leads to the proverbial experiences of ¡°heaven¡± or ¡°hell¡±. I¡¯ve made hellish choices on many occasions in my life and I¡¯m seeking, more and more, to understand what goes into those choices so I may make different ones.

I wrote the above with the best of intentions and hope I have not offended anyone. As I age (I¡¯m in my mid-forties), I¡¯m realising that I want to be less offended and offensive, less fundamental, more open, more giving and more understanding of others and myself. Obviously, I have a long way to go! :-)

Take care.

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 23 Sep 2020, at 10:35 am, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Lucky, what does "pre-understanding" mean to you?? It's not in the dictionary and the only thing I found in a quick online search is:

"preunderstanding?includes anything and everything we understand, believe, or assume before we study the Bible"

? ?



Re: Lucky's Kitchen Videos #kitchendesign

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Mark:

I used preunderstanding because I hoped it was sufficiently banal to be understood in context. In truth, it is a rather loaded concept and you are right to question what it means (to me). Thank you.

Your online search was sufficiently vague to be unhelpful, although it redeems in one respect ¡ª the term is often used in relation to biblical research. However, despite its links to theology, there is an atavism to the concept which is more philosophical than theological, and derives notions of meaning, existence, and even existentialism. In my previous emails, I referred to ¡°ideology¡± as a way of summarising and condensing the issues of pre-understanding in a contemporary way. I use the word ideology in a broader sense ¡ª not just to refer to economics or politics ¡ª but sociology, history, and culture.

When I approach a situation like a kitchen design, my "ideological kitchen" is informed by previous experiences, previous discussions (like this one), previous prejudices and ignorances, previous education in all spheres. I might prefer timber finishes because I am a woodworker. I might prefer stainless steel kicks because of the influence of my architect uncle. I might prefer a spartan/clean look because it reminds me of a poorer upbringing when I had less. I might be more testy with you than with the next guy because you happened to use a combination of terms or phrases that was reminiscent of persons who bullied me in my youth. Each of these examples are illustrative of, or formative to, my view of a ¡°good kitchen¡±; my ideological kitchen. These precursors have nothing to do with whether my kitchen has good design or not, and yet they have everything to do with whether my kitchen has good design ¡°for me¡±.

When I use the term pre-understanding, I¡¯m invoking all that goes before me, my American heritage, my white skin, my relentlessly religious upbringing, my experiences in outback Australian schools, my exposures to woodworkers and woodworking techniques, trade magazines on kitchen design, my extensive tertiary education, social influences, political influences, familial influences, etc. ad?nauseam. I make so many assumptions and decisions on the basis of previously lived experiences.

When people come together with relatively parallel pre-understandings, they often find comfort in a shared and reinforced ideology. I know I do. Groups like the FOG are powerful and important because of a shared ideology. (As an aside, I find the sociology of online communities amazingly complex and interesting.) Lots of members here piled in on my kitchen design and we reinforced common ground on what we think is good design. If I¡¯m honest, the positive comments made me feel good. Likewise, when John K. calls me on my bandsaw judgements, I don¡¯t feel so good. But then when I allow myself permission to get behind the emails, behind the texts, and into the realms of understanding and assumptions, I am able to give myself permission to learn, and to feel OK about it. So I reach out to John K. with a conciliatory email and it lets him know that our relatively parallel pre-understandings are strong enough that we can disagree from time to time (even quite strongly) and still enjoy each other¡¯s repartee. Right John? :-)

What is more important to me, indeed what is of existential importance, is not so much the social acceptance or rejection of the FOG member¡¯s views on my kitchen (the desire to feel ¡°good¡±), but the getting behind photos and videos and words, the getting behind my intentional (whether conscious or unconscious) framing of the subject matter, and understanding (pre-understanding) reality itself. I believe we can only understand reality through case-studies like my kitchen design. There is far too much here to unpack, and much of the philosophical roots of the discussion goes beyond my expertise, but I find meaning in understanding myself, and understanding those around me. Meaning is self-chosen, and depending on what is chosen leads to the proverbial experiences of ¡°heaven¡± or ¡°hell¡±. I¡¯ve made hellish choices on many occasions in my life and I¡¯m seeking, more and more, to understand what goes into those choices so I may make different ones.

I wrote the above with the best of intentions and hope I have not offended anyone. As I age (I¡¯m in my mid-forties), I¡¯m realising that I want to be less offended and offensive, less fundamental, more open, more giving and more understanding of others and myself. Obviously, I have a long way to go! :-)

Take care.

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 23 Sep 2020, at 10:35 am, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:

Lucky, what does "pre-understanding" mean to you?? It's not in the dictionary and the only thing I found in a quick online search is:

"preunderstanding?includes anything and everything we understand, believe, or assume before we study the Bible"

? ?


Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest #Bandsaw

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

In the days of cast iron bandsaws, Northfield was considered lighter duty than most.? Their 27" was a sweet size but the 32 and 36 were never quite as loved as Oliver, Yates, Tanny or even Moak or Crescent.? 20" saws were not considered to be resaw machines as most had 1-2 hp motors.? Those 6 or 8 pole motors were very smooth though.? Dave


From: [email protected] on behalf of David Luckensmeyer
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 4:55 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest #Bandsaw

Hi John:

Can¡¯t disagree with your email. (I tried.) :-)
Thanks for the education regarding bandsaw weights.
Cheers.

Lucky

On 23 Sep 2020, at 8:52 am, "\"jmkserv@..." <jmkserv@...> <jmkserv@...> wrote:

Lucky, no problem pal, just gives me an opportunity?to rattle your cage a bit, LOL. I think value for the money is a good statement and should include "for where you live". The main reason I have my 600 is that it was only $3000.00 CDN new when I bought it. As far as bandsaw weights go both the 640 and 600/610 are the same weight with?them all at 705 lbs. The?600/610 appears to be beefier because of the larger support column. The often praised Laguna 24" comes in at 725 lbs, the SCM640 at 750 lbs and the king being the lowly Grizzly 24" at 847 lbs. I have no idea from my experience what a heavy build means because all these machines look the same until you get to the old cast iron heavy weights that were from cast because it was cheaper. The Northfield bandsaw are quite heavy in comparison with a very substantial price, the 20" basic machine coming in at over $12,000.00 USD.

I agree about the guides sometimes being an extra cost but honestly have never had an issue setting up any guide to work. I have Laguna Ceramics on the top guide of my 600 and the standard euro guide of the bottom and get extremely?accurate?cuts.

As far as old iron versus new, I personally?think you have to go back more than 20 years but in comparison to new prices there is alot?to choose from. Oh and don't?tell your bandsaw that it has a crap Italian motor it may show what is a well fact over here.

On Tue, Sep 22, 2020 at 5:31 PM David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi John:

I think I should have moderated my comments against Felder bandsaws by saying, not that one should not be purchased (as if they are all rubbish, which of course they are not) but that I think there are better value options elsewhere. The value for money proposition is quite different from what I said before, so I appreciate you pulling me up on it.

I have not owned a Felder 510, 610 or 600 series bandsaw. However, I have set up all of those saws, and I have advised personal friends and colleagues on how to get the most out of theirs, including set up, blade tension, blade choice, etc.

I do not know the weight of the 640 and 610 off the top of my head but I am not convinced that they are the same weight. Do you have the numbers for comparison? If they are indeed the same I¡¯d like to know.

I have found that every bandsaw I¡¯ve ever looked at, new or otherwise, required after market guides. Unless one is handy in the machine shop, designing and building/adapting new guides can get quite expensive. As a result, I would rather spend 1/3 or 1/2 the money buying a vintage saw in the 20-40 year old category, and then upgrading the guides, rather than spending top dollar on a Felder, and then upgrading the guides.

But I understand from your email that you take issue over my blanket statement, particularly as a happy owner of a 600 series bandsaw. On that note, I¡¯m sympathetic, and hope my moderated response above finds more common ground.

David K., can you expand on your comment about ¡°bad luck with Italian motors¡±? My FB540 has a 3HP S1 motor (Italian), which has been an unbelievable workhorse for me over the last 14 years. But that experience is drawn from a sample of one!

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 22 Sep 2020, at 9:29 am, "\"jmkserv@..." <jmkserv@...> <jmkserv@...> <jmkserv@...> wrote:

Interesting statement Lucky, have you ever owned a Felder 510, 610 or 600 series bandsaw? For the record they don't seem to make the 540 anymore, weight for the 640 and 610 are the same with the 640 having the old style round bar for the fence instead of the much more usable F rails on 3 sides. The 540, 640 etc only can tilt to 20 degrees instead?of 45. Also the 510, 610 etc have better resaw heights. I know there have been a couple of issues mentioned about the newer machines but this is typically all you hear from newbies on the?forum looking to resolve problems and we have also not heard back if the 2 or 3 people actually?got them resolved. Height isn't much of problem with the new series coming in at about?80" high. Personally I wouldn't give up my 2011 FB600 for any other bandsaw.

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 6:10 PM David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
TJ Cornish:

There was an FB540 listed a week back or so. I have that saw and it is a vastly better and heavier machine compared to the FB510 and even FB610 (although the latter has a larger table). The FB540 is compact and is probably exactly the size you¡¯re after.

I understand that you don¡¯t want ¡°giant old iron¡±. However, can you fit a 24¡± machine for height? Since you have three phase, you would be able to look for a used Centaur, or Meber, or Agazzani, or older Laguna saw. Any Italian saw made more than 20 years ago, but not so long ago as to be ¡°old iron¡±, would be exactly the kind of saw that you could buy and have for the rest of your life.

I used to like the idea of buying new. New warranty. New paint. New bearings. Shiny and nice. But when it comes to a bandsaw, unless you really spend a LOT of money, the older machines are much better; heavier and far more rigid. Again, I¡¯m not advocating ¡°giant old iron¡±, but get one of those brands listed above, or an older Felder FB540 (which is not made by Felder).

?Do not buy a new Felder bandsaw (said by an avid Felder fan). That¡¯s just my opinion.

Lucky


On 22 Sep 2020, at 8:00 am, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:

I have been casually band saw shopping. I don't currently have one and so need something for moderate resawing. I was leaning toward the Felder FB-510, but have read some posts here that maybe it isn't great? Someone said get the Laguna LT16 instead, and I know the MiniMaxes are fairly highly regarded. A mid-upper-grade 14" saw might be enough for me, but I'd rather buy once/cry once and get my last saw as my first saw.

Anyone have something like this for sale within about 500 miles of Minneapolis? I don't want giant old iron - I don't have space for a saw much larger than a FB-510, but 3-phase wouldn't be a problem.





--
John Kee
JMK Services





--
John Kee
JMK Services


Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest #Bandsaw

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Thanks David K. Interesting information. 60Hz motors will run at 50Hz too, which we did with my Dad¡¯s table saw when we moved over to Australia in the 1980s. The motor didn¡¯t have anywhere near as much power, and had to be rested otherwise it would overheat. It went for years before it died.

I bet the next time I have a large resaw job on my FB540, the Italian motor dies. Sorry I asked. LOL


Lucky


On 23 Sep 2020, at 10:21 am, David Kumm <davekumm@...> wrote:

I thought I was playing nice by saying " I had bad luck with italian motors " rather than saying they were crappy.? Doesn't mean none will last, just like not all grizzly motors will fail ( taking it to extremes ).? I have smoked more Fimec motors than any other and my friends in the used machine business figure the cost of a new motor into their purchases, particularly SCMI machines that just run 50 hz motors at 60 hz.? Theoretically they should run with no issues @ 60hz but putting 10+ hp into a 90 or 100L frame adds heat and doesn't leave much room for error in manufacturing.? Compound that with so many motors sourced in China now ( some are good ) to save money without the consumer knowing the difference and my rant shouldn't be limited to Fimec.

I wouldn't sweat it in a bandsaw though.? The motor can be easily swapped if it goes bad.? As to weight, as John said, to compare you need to look at wheel and table weight and compensate.? Heavy cast iron wheels absorb some vibration but if a saw is well balanced, lighter wheels aren't a negative.? Many old iron saws ran aluminum upper wheels.? My old saws run Wright guides that are 75 years old and part of the time I leave the top one off so I don't see guides as a big enough deal to influence any purchase.? Shoelaces are more important to me.? Dave

From:?[email protected]?<[email protected]> on behalf of "jmkserv@...?<jmkserv@...>
Sent:?Tuesday, September 22, 2020 6:52 PM
To:?[email protected]?<[email protected]>
Subject:?Re: [FOG] Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest #Bandsaw
?
Lucky, no problem pal, just gives me an opportunity?to rattle your cage a bit, LOL. I think value for the money is a good statement and should include "for where you live". The main reason I have my 600 is that it was only $3000.00 CDN new when I bought it. As far as bandsaw weights go both the 640 and 600/610 are the same weight with?them all at 705 lbs. The?600/610 appears to be beefier because of the larger support column. The often praised Laguna 24" comes in at 725 lbs, the SCM640 at 750 lbs and the king being the lowly Grizzly 24" at 847 lbs. I have no idea from my experience what a heavy build means because all these machines look the same until you get to the old cast iron heavy weights that were from cast because it was cheaper. The Northfield bandsaw are quite heavy in comparison with a very substantial price, the 20" basic machine coming in at over $12,000.00 USD.

I agree about the guides sometimes being an extra cost but honestly have never had an issue setting up any guide to work. I have Laguna Ceramics on the top guide of my 600 and the standard euro guide of the bottom and get extremely?accurate?cuts.

As far as old iron versus new, I personally?think you have to go back more than 20 years but in comparison to new prices there is alot?to choose from. Oh and don't?tell your bandsaw that it has a crap Italian motor it may show what is a well fact over here.

On Tue, Sep 22, 2020 at 5:31 PM David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi John:

I think I should have moderated my comments against Felder bandsaws by saying, not that one should not be purchased (as if they are all rubbish, which of course they are not) but that I think there are better value options elsewhere. The value for money proposition is quite different from what I said before, so I appreciate you pulling me up on it.

I have not owned a Felder 510, 610 or 600 series bandsaw. However, I have set up all of those saws, and I have advised personal friends and colleagues on how to get the most out of theirs, including set up, blade tension, blade choice, etc.

I do not know the weight of the 640 and 610 off the top of my head but I am not convinced that they are the same weight. Do you have the numbers for comparison? If they are indeed the same I¡¯d like to know.

I have found that every bandsaw I¡¯ve ever looked at, new or otherwise, required after market guides. Unless one is handy in the machine shop, designing and building/adapting new guides can get quite expensive. As a result, I would rather spend 1/3 or 1/2 the money buying a vintage saw in the 20-40 year old category, and then upgrading the guides, rather than spending top dollar on a Felder, and then upgrading the guides.

But I understand from your email that you take issue over my blanket statement, particularly as a happy owner of a 600 series bandsaw. On that note, I¡¯m sympathetic, and hope my moderated response above finds more common ground.

David K., can you expand on your comment about ¡°bad luck with Italian motors¡±? My FB540 has a 3HP S1 motor (Italian), which has been an unbelievable workhorse for me over the last 14 years. But that experience is drawn from a sample of one!

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 22 Sep 2020, at 9:29 am, "\"jmkserv@..." <jmkserv@...> <jmkserv@...> <jmkserv@...> wrote:

Interesting statement Lucky, have you ever owned a Felder 510, 610 or 600 series bandsaw? For the record they don't seem to make the 540 anymore, weight for the 640 and 610 are the same with the 640 having the old style round bar for the fence instead of the much more usable F rails on 3 sides. The 540, 640 etc only can tilt to 20 degrees instead?of 45. Also the 510, 610 etc have better resaw heights. I know there have been a couple of issues mentioned about the newer machines but this is typically all you hear from newbies on the?forum looking to resolve problems and we have also not heard back if the 2 or 3 people actually?got them resolved. Height isn't much of problem with the new series coming in at about?80" high. Personally I wouldn't give up my 2011 FB600 for any other bandsaw.

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 6:10 PM David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
TJ Cornish:

There was an FB540 listed a week back or so. I have that saw and it is a vastly better and heavier machine compared to the FB510 and even FB610 (although the latter has a larger table). The FB540 is compact and is probably exactly the size you¡¯re after.

I understand that you don¡¯t want ¡°giant old iron¡±. However, can you fit a 24¡± machine for height? Since you have three phase, you would be able to look for a used Centaur, or Meber, or Agazzani, or older Laguna saw. Any Italian saw made more than 20 years ago, but not so long ago as to be ¡°old iron¡±, would be exactly the kind of saw that you could buy and have for the rest of your life.

I used to like the idea of buying new. New warranty. New paint. New bearings. Shiny and nice. But when it comes to a bandsaw, unless you really spend a LOT of money, the older machines are much better; heavier and far more rigid. Again, I¡¯m not advocating ¡°giant old iron¡±, but get one of those brands listed above, or an older Felder FB540 (which is not made by Felder).

?Do not buy a new Felder bandsaw (said by an avid Felder fan). That¡¯s just my opinion.

Lucky


On 22 Sep 2020, at 8:00 am, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:

I have been casually band saw shopping. I don't currently have one and so need something for moderate resawing. I was leaning toward the Felder FB-510, but have read some posts here that maybe it isn't great? Someone said get the Laguna LT16 instead, and I know the MiniMaxes are fairly highly regarded. A mid-upper-grade 14" saw might be enough for me, but I'd rather buy once/cry once and get my last saw as my first saw.

Anyone have something like this for sale within about 500 miles of Minneapolis? I don't want giant old iron - I don't have space for a saw much larger than a FB-510, but 3-phase wouldn't be a problem.





--?
John Kee
JMK Services



--?
John Kee
JMK Services


Re: Looking for a band saw the size of a Minimax 16/Felder FB510 or so in the upper Midwest #Bandsaw

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi John:

Can¡¯t disagree with your email. (I tried.) :-)
Thanks for the education regarding bandsaw weights.
Cheers.

Lucky

On 23 Sep 2020, at 8:52 am, "\"jmkserv@..." <jmkserv@...> <jmkserv@...> wrote:

Lucky, no problem pal, just gives me an opportunity?to rattle your cage a bit, LOL. I think value for the money is a good statement and should include "for where you live". The main reason I have my 600 is that it was only $3000.00 CDN new when I bought it. As far as bandsaw weights go both the 640 and 600/610 are the same weight with?them all at 705 lbs. The?600/610 appears to be beefier because of the larger support column. The often praised Laguna 24" comes in at 725 lbs, the SCM640 at 750 lbs and the king being the lowly Grizzly 24" at 847 lbs. I have no idea from my experience what a heavy build means because all these machines look the same until you get to the old cast iron heavy weights that were from cast because it was cheaper. The Northfield bandsaw are quite heavy in comparison with a very substantial price, the 20" basic machine coming in at over $12,000.00 USD.

I agree about the guides sometimes being an extra cost but honestly have never had an issue setting up any guide to work. I have Laguna Ceramics on the top guide of my 600 and the standard euro guide of the bottom and get extremely?accurate?cuts.

As far as old iron versus new, I personally?think you have to go back more than 20 years but in comparison to new prices there is alot?to choose from. Oh and don't?tell your bandsaw that it has a crap Italian motor it may show what is a well fact over here.

On Tue, Sep 22, 2020 at 5:31 PM David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
Hi John:

I think I should have moderated my comments against Felder bandsaws by saying, not that one should not be purchased (as if they are all rubbish, which of course they are not) but that I think there are better value options elsewhere. The value for money proposition is quite different from what I said before, so I appreciate you pulling me up on it.

I have not owned a Felder 510, 610 or 600 series bandsaw. However, I have set up all of those saws, and I have advised personal friends and colleagues on how to get the most out of theirs, including set up, blade tension, blade choice, etc.

I do not know the weight of the 640 and 610 off the top of my head but I am not convinced that they are the same weight. Do you have the numbers for comparison? If they are indeed the same I¡¯d like to know.

I have found that every bandsaw I¡¯ve ever looked at, new or otherwise, required after market guides. Unless one is handy in the machine shop, designing and building/adapting new guides can get quite expensive. As a result, I would rather spend 1/3 or 1/2 the money buying a vintage saw in the 20-40 year old category, and then upgrading the guides, rather than spending top dollar on a Felder, and then upgrading the guides.

But I understand from your email that you take issue over my blanket statement, particularly as a happy owner of a 600 series bandsaw. On that note, I¡¯m sympathetic, and hope my moderated response above finds more common ground.

David K., can you expand on your comment about ¡°bad luck with Italian motors¡±? My FB540 has a 3HP S1 motor (Italian), which has been an unbelievable workhorse for me over the last 14 years. But that experience is drawn from a sample of one!

Warm regards,
Lucky


On 22 Sep 2020, at 9:29 am, "\"jmkserv@..." <jmkserv@...> <jmkserv@...> <jmkserv@...> wrote:

Interesting statement Lucky, have you ever owned a Felder 510, 610 or 600 series bandsaw? For the record they don't seem to make the 540 anymore, weight for the 640 and 610 are the same with the 640 having the old style round bar for the fence instead of the much more usable F rails on 3 sides. The 540, 640 etc only can tilt to 20 degrees instead?of 45. Also the 510, 610 etc have better resaw heights. I know there have been a couple of issues mentioned about the newer machines but this is typically all you hear from newbies on the?forum looking to resolve problems and we have also not heard back if the 2 or 3 people actually?got them resolved. Height isn't much of problem with the new series coming in at about?80" high. Personally I wouldn't give up my 2011 FB600 for any other bandsaw.

On Mon, Sep 21, 2020 at 6:10 PM David Luckensmeyer <dhluckens@...> wrote:
TJ Cornish:

There was an FB540 listed a week back or so. I have that saw and it is a vastly better and heavier machine compared to the FB510 and even FB610 (although the latter has a larger table). The FB540 is compact and is probably exactly the size you¡¯re after.

I understand that you don¡¯t want ¡°giant old iron¡±. However, can you fit a 24¡± machine for height? Since you have three phase, you would be able to look for a used Centaur, or Meber, or Agazzani, or older Laguna saw. Any Italian saw made more than 20 years ago, but not so long ago as to be ¡°old iron¡±, would be exactly the kind of saw that you could buy and have for the rest of your life.

I used to like the idea of buying new. New warranty. New paint. New bearings. Shiny and nice. But when it comes to a bandsaw, unless you really spend a LOT of money, the older machines are much better; heavier and far more rigid. Again, I¡¯m not advocating ¡°giant old iron¡±, but get one of those brands listed above, or an older Felder FB540 (which is not made by Felder).

?Do not buy a new Felder bandsaw (said by an avid Felder fan). That¡¯s just my opinion.

Lucky


On 22 Sep 2020, at 8:00 am, TJ Cornish <tj@...> wrote:

I have been casually band saw shopping. I don't currently have one and so need something for moderate resawing. I was leaning toward the Felder FB-510, but have read some posts here that maybe it isn't great? Someone said get the Laguna LT16 instead, and I know the MiniMaxes are fairly highly regarded. A mid-upper-grade 14" saw might be enough for me, but I'd rather buy once/cry once and get my last saw as my first saw.

Anyone have something like this for sale within about 500 miles of Minneapolis? I don't want giant old iron - I don't have space for a saw much larger than a FB-510, but 3-phase wouldn't be a problem.





--
John Kee
JMK Services





--
John Kee
JMK Services


Re: BF-741 near Seattle

 

Greg, what is the best way to get a hold of you?? I'm semi local and am interested in several items.

Troy