How bizarre. ?Copying the link to Brian’s precision level brings up the parallel guide picture. ?Still, follow the link for a very functional precision level...
On May 21, 2023, at 11:32 AM, Matthew Hanson <fiftyeight180@...> wrote:
Quick update - the concrete floor was wavy and after a carpenter's level and wood shim level job the table alignment?is much improved. The forward half of the table still has a bit of drag on the outfeed end but only severe at the very front end. And a slight concave relationship still exists across the slider/table.? Time to order a precision level...
On Sun, May 21, 2023 at 9:44?AM Matthew Hanson via <fiftyeight180=[email protected]> wrote:
David,
Thank you for sharing the excellent video. Your process, as filmed, must assume the cast iron table is properly installed to the chassis - or have you previously?checked this? The table appears evenly spaced above the chassis and coplanar (carpenter level). The table is virtually flat across but has a .004" lengthwise dip at the right edge increasing to a worst case of .012" just forward of the blade ?- as measured with feeler gauges under a Starrett 36" straight edge. I am sure the shaper cutout doesn't help with this. ?
The palouse is beautiful and Walla Walla is great?- but I admit I gravitate?to Napa cabs.?
Matt
On Sat, May 20, 2023 at 8:46?PM David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?Hello Matt,?
Although I’m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons.? First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer’s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
<sunrise-on-palouse-hills-randall-roberts.jpg>
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It’s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You’re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out.? Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
On May 21, 2023, at 12:32 PM, Mondo3 <raygutnick@...> wrote:
Other than this Felder Owner's Group, what other tool forums do you follow? I'd be interested to see if they have discuss similar issues as with some Felder products.
Other than this Felder Owner's Group, what other tool forums do you follow? I'd be interested to see if they have discuss similar issues as with some Felder products.
Quick update - the concrete floor was wavy and after a carpenter's level and wood shim level job the table alignment?is much improved. The forward half of the table still has a bit of drag on the outfeed end but only severe at the very front end. And a slight concave relationship still exists across the slider/table.? Time to order a precision level...
On Sun, May 21, 2023 at 9:44?AM Matthew Hanson via <fiftyeight180=[email protected]> wrote:
David,
Thank you for sharing the excellent video. Your process, as filmed, must assume the cast iron table is properly installed to the chassis - or have you previously?checked this? The table appears evenly spaced above the chassis and coplanar (carpenter level). The table is virtually flat across but has a .004" lengthwise dip at the right edge increasing to a worst case of .012" just forward of the blade ?- as measured with feeler gauges under a Starrett 36" straight edge. I am sure the shaper cutout doesn't help with this. ?
The palouse is beautiful and Walla Walla is great?- but I admit I gravitate?to Napa cabs.?
Matt
On Sat, May 20, 2023 at 8:46?PM David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?Hello Matt,?
Although I’m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons.? First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer’s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It’s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You’re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out.? Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
Thank you for sharing the excellent video. Your process, as filmed, must assume the cast iron table is properly installed to the chassis - or have you previously?checked this? The table appears evenly spaced above the chassis and coplanar (carpenter level). The table is virtually flat across but has a .004" lengthwise dip at the right edge increasing to a worst case of .012" just forward of the blade ?- as measured with feeler gauges under a Starrett 36" straight edge. I am sure the shaper cutout doesn't help with this. ?
The palouse is beautiful and Walla Walla is great?- but I admit I gravitate?to Napa cabs.?
On Sat, May 20, 2023 at 8:46?PM David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?Hello Matt,?
Although I’m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons.? First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer’s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It’s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You’re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out.? Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
On May 20, 2023, at 11:22 PM, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
Mike, I forgot to bring up one other aspect of indexable groovers. ?If they have “nickers” that ensure the vertical wall of the groove is cut cleanly, those nickers will leave “bat ears” in the part being cut. ?These are the “nickers” I’m talking about, and they exist on the Felder dado cutters:
<Felder Bats.jpeg>
The “bat ear” profile left by them is as shown in the image below. ?If you’re doing heirloom furniture, the perfectionists among us can really protest the results of such a groove. ? Lots of people go to the trouble of honing down the nicker inserts so they cut just to the bottom of the groove rather than beyond it. ?
<bat ears.jpeg>
This might be an important consideration if you’re working in a genre like Craftsman-type output (Green & Green &?Biedermeier come to mind).
If you had to choose between spending $1k on a high speed spindle or putting that money towards cutters that do similar jobs
My 0.02. ?Well, if you give up your router table, and you also do not have the option of using your shaper with router bits, there are certain things you will not be able to do. ?For just 1 example, let's say you make dovetails using a jig and a router table. ?Shaper tooling will not do a similar job.
This topic has come up in different forms where some say you do not want to use the shaper with router bits when the speed is slower where others say if you are 10,000 to 12,000 RPM, you are fine. ?Whereas some say they would never be without a router table, others with a shaper got rid of their router table and never looked back. ?However, I do not believe they were using the shaper as part of a combo and were without a router spindle.
I have a stand alone shaper and got rid of my router table. ?If space were truly were not an issue, I would not have done that but I preferred using space for a separate jointer planer after having a combo JP for decades. ?However, I would not have done that if I could not use my shaper with router bits and be able to move the fence back far enough to work with router bits, and no way would I have done that when my shaper was part of a saw-shaper combo even with a router spindle due to the changeover hassle as pointed out. ?
Before I got rid of my router table, I went without using it where I used my shaper exclusively to make sure I would not miss it.
Another KF user here who wouldn't be without a router table. Even if it were one of the baby Veritas ones Tom Gensmer loves so much. Most of my round over type operations are with dedicated Bosch Colt routers. They are cheap enough I have 3 or 4 with dedicated functions. I have a pair of cordless Milwaukee routers also for specific veneer trimming use that are used dozens of times every day. That said the router table is still in use way more often than the shaper.
Jason?
Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765
-- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
I went back to work after acquiring the Felder dado set so it has not been used yet. I have 2 adj. 150mm grooving cutters covering the range of 4-28mm. I would like to learn if the felder dado works similar to the grooving cutters where I can make a tenon in one pass. I have not seen Felder dado advertised as such, so for now keeping my groovers. The groovers are also much easier to handle, so not sure if I would get rid of them.
On May 19, 2023, at 12:29 PM, Steven B <sb@...> wrote:
?Not to hijack this thread, but I pose a question for the group:
I'm still familiarizing myself with shaper cutters and operation...Would this dado set be compatible with a 30mm spindle shaper for grooving? And if so are there any downsides to using such large diameter tooling, versus something more standard such as 160mm diameter?
With my ear protection on, I cannot hear the blade brake (buzzing sound).? I had to turn off the dust collector and take off the ear pro before I could hear the buzzing.?
Roger S.-? On my computer, I can't make out the details on the circuit diagram in your post above.? Which manual do you have that shows these circuit drawings ?? My C3 manuals only show this one circuit schematic drawing (PDF attached). thanks,? Rich M.
My bad…my machine does ?buzz but most noticeable after the Planer/thick esser had spun down….which it does well wthin the 10 seconds. ?The table saw also breaks but, having higher inertia, pretty much takes up the ten seconds and the noise from the blade spinning masks the buzz.
I have gone back to have another look and I’d be keen to understand on average how long it takes others jointer helical heads or spindle router spindles to slow, the break might not be applied on my saw at all, that would make more sense than
two out of the three motors doing it and just not the saw because all other switching functionality works fine otherwise
I may reach out to Felder also for a question, looking for an exploded schematic of the C3 31. If anyone has one would you mind passing it on if it’s pdf format
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what’s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I’m hoping something relevant comes up in this
post.
I have gone back to have another look and I’d be keen to understand on average how long it takes others jointer helical heads or spindle router spindles to slow, the break might not be applied on my saw at all, that would make more sense than
two out of the three motors doing it and just not the saw because all other switching functionality works fine otherwise
I may reach out to Felder also for a question, looking for an exploded schematic of the C3 31. If anyone has one would you mind passing it on if it’s pdf format
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what’s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I’m hoping something relevant comes up in this
post.
I have gone back to have another look and I’d be keen to understand on average how long it takes others jointer helical heads or spindle router spindles to slow, the break might not be applied on my saw at all, that would make more sense than
two out of the three motors doing it and just not the saw because all other switching functionality works fine otherwise
I may reach out to Felder also for a question, looking for an exploded schematic of the C3 31. If anyone has one would you mind passing it on if it’s pdf format
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what’s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I’m hoping something relevant comes up in this
post.
I have gone back to have another look and I’d be keen to understand on average how long it takes others jointer helical heads or spindle router spindles to slow, the break might not be applied on my saw at all, that would make more sense than
two out of the three motors doing it and just not the saw because all other switching functionality works fine otherwise
I may reach out to Felder also for a question, looking for an exploded schematic of the C3 31. If anyone has one would you mind passing it on if it’s pdf format
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what’s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I’m hoping something relevant comes up in this
post.
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what’s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I’m hoping something relevant comes up in this post.
Mike, I forgot to bring up one other aspect of indexable groovers. ?If they have “nickers” that ensure the vertical wall of the groove is cut cleanly, those nickers will leave “bat ears” in the part being cut. ?These are the “nickers” I’m talking about, and they exist on the Felder dado cutters:
The “bat ear” profile left by them is as shown in the image below. ?If you’re doing heirloom furniture, the perfectionists among us can really protest the results of such a groove. ? Lots of people go to the trouble of honing down the nicker inserts so they cut just to the bottom of the groove rather than beyond it. ?
This might be an important consideration if you’re working in a genre like Craftsman-type output (Green & Green &?Biedermeier come to mind).
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
Wow - just a year apart. ?Richael's undergrad commencement was 2013. ?I wonder if they knew each other. ?Currently she's in Ph.D program at U Washington. ?Private schools from K-onward - the meter just hit $1M. ?Hopefully this will come back in the form of eldercare soon enough. ?Liquidating my shop might help, but won’t last long. ?LOL.
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On May 20, 2023, at 9:31 PM, Mark Foster <mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
David,?
Thank you for your YouTube video, I just reviewed it again in the last few days. After a couple years I finally decided to give it a shot at improving my tuning.?
I did not know your daughter was a Whitte, we have one class 2012.
Mark Foster
Bend, Oregon
On May 20, 2023, at 20:46, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?
?Hello Matt,?
Although I’m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons. ?First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer’s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
<sunrise-on-palouse-hills-randall-roberts.jpg>
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It’s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You’re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out. ?Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
David Best - via mobile phone?
On May 20, 2023, at 7:01 PM, fiftyeight180@... wrote:
?Hello All,
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
Thank you for your YouTube video, I just reviewed it again in the last few days. After a couple years I finally decided to give it a shot at improving my tuning.?
I did not know your daughter was a Whitte, we have one class 2012.
On May 20, 2023, at 20:46, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?
?Hello Matt,?
Although I’m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons. ?First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer’s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
<sunrise-on-palouse-hills-randall-roberts.jpg>
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It’s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You’re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out. ?Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
David Best - via mobile phone?
On May 20, 2023, at 7:01 PM, fiftyeight180@... wrote:
?Hello All,
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
Although I’m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons. ?First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer’s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It’s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You’re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out. ?Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
On May 20, 2023, at 7:01 PM, fiftyeight180@... wrote:
?Hello All,
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.