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Shinta,
? ? Longtime lurker and prospective fielder owner in Portland Oregon. I work on scissor lifts, boom lifts, forklifts for a living. Where are you looking? Have you looked at anything in person yet? The used equipment market is ridiculous right now due to the lead times for new equipment from all manufacturers. Skyjack makes an excellent product. Easy to work on, parts are easy to get, and are ?a very well made machine. I would be happy to help you (or anyone else on the forum) any way I can.?
Skylar Reyburn
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It’s pretty interesting what router options are available in Europe. ?Here’s a link to some tilting router lifts…
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Then there are interesting and super capable router table options, like this from RUWI.
Not everything requires a shaper. ?And when you consider the time to cross over from a saw/shaper combination, a dedicated router table can be a real boon. ?Especially when accompanied by a great fence, like the Incra, which gives you real repeatability and the ability to advance/retract the fence in a known amount of travel...
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On May 23, 2023, at 1:18 PM, Joe Kurtz <jkurtz505@...> wrote:
I have a 2005 KF700 w/ 600sqft if space. I regularly switch out the spindles. It takes a ~5 minutes and then I have a sliding router table that goes 15k rpm AND tilts. No router and lift table is going to do that. The router spindle in a smaller hobbyist shop is worth it for floor space imo. Everything I can't do or don't want to change out the spindle for (rarely) I can do by hand or on a track.
Today I needed to cut a tongue and groove to assemble a new steam box. ?I was looking forward to using my new adjustable groover (6.4mm-12mm) but the spacers did not come with it. ?I immediately went in to call Felder and order some spacers. ?Tried twice through sales (going to order that 12-20mm groover as well). ?On hold for 5 minutes, then immediately to voicemail with a message to call on a cell phone if you want to talk immediately. ?Of course, this dude has not called me back the last time I dealt with him. ?Call back and ask for Liz. ?Go to voicemail with no greeting as to who it is. ?So I call back, ask for technical service. ?Say that I need the spacers for the part number. ?Wait — I need your customer number. ?Don’t have it. ?3 minutes of them looking it up. ?In the meantime, I log into their website and give the customer number. ?I need the spacers for the adjustable groover for circular saws. ?Wait, I need to know what machine this is for. ?More malarkey. ?Finally she says I have to get a tech. ?By this time, I’ve wasted 20 minutes. ?I wait for another 5. ?She comes back and says no technician is available, I’ll put in a ticket and they will call you tomorrow.
I go back to the shop. ?I start to disassemble the saw to mount the Forrest dado stack. ?That requires removing the saw blade. ?And replacing the table insert. ?And then figuring out how much to recalibrate the cross cut fence so that I know where to cut the groove and the rebate.
Wait a minute! ?I can do this on my router table with an intra fence. ?It was done perfectly in 15 minutes.
There’s a place for a router table with a good fence. ?At least in my opinion.
YMMV
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On May 23, 2023, at 1:18 PM, Joe Kurtz <jkurtz505@...> wrote:
I have a 2005 KF700 w/ 600sqft if space. I regularly switch out the spindles. It takes a ~5 minutes and then I have a sliding router table that goes 15k rpm AND tilts. No router and lift table is going to do that. The router spindle in a smaller hobbyist shop is worth it for floor space imo. Everything I can't do or don't want to change out the spindle for (rarely) I can do by hand or on a track.
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Hello everyone,
I just about finish a shop addition and will have a 13.5-foot ceiling.? Climbing up and down ladders gets old real quick not to mention it is a bit scary working on such a tall ladder, so looking into a slab scissor lift.? 2632, 26-ft rise, 32-inch platform width seems ideal.? The 1932 isn't much cheaper.? Genie, Skyjack, JLG, etc.? Old vs new?? Anyone has gone through this and has some sage advice to impart?? I would love to hear.? Thought about rent, but would rather have one on hand for future use.??
Thanks!
SW
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
To follow up on my issue: I had loosened the hinge securing bolt on the infeed hinge so much that the infeed table had fallen away and skewed pretty significantly away from the operator side. Consequently the hinge side had been raised so high by this, that when I lowered everything down by the height adjustment knob as the baseline to start my adjustments to bring the infeed table in plane with the outfeed, i had to go near the end of the travel of the adjustment knob, and the cascade continued until I had everything coplanar but couldn't adjust the height very much.
Everything is coplanar and adjusting fine now. So back to my project and thanks for your help.
NB: I had loosened the hinge side so much because previous adjustments had stripped the M6 nut so severely that I figured now would be a good time to do a small amount of surgery to replace the nut and start fresh. I have no idea why Felder moved away from this design for raising the hinge side but the careful balance between hinge bolts and jackscrews seems unnecessarily fragile from what is otherwise an effective way to make these adjustments.
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I have a 2005 KF700 w/ 600sqft if space. I regularly switch out the spindles. It takes a ~5 minutes and then I have a sliding router table that goes 15k rpm AND tilts. No router and lift table is going to do that. The router spindle in a smaller hobbyist shop is worth it for floor space imo. Everything I can't do or don't want to change out the spindle for (rarely) I can do by hand or on a track.
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
I think you may be correct. The measurements were made with the clamping locked down tight - I may be twisting the table. I will loosen the clamp first and take more measurements.
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Re: Felder Silent Power Dado 6.3-20mm
#forsale
Thank you all, and thank you David and Dr. Lucky for the images, measurements, and recommendations - they are all extremely helpful! I appreciate this group's constant support and input. Your in-depth analysis and experience is exceptional. Thank you for sharing it with us all.
Thank you,
Steve
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
As Brian says any deflection with tighting the table is bad sign ,what ever you do in one corner it moves the opposite corner at bias. Tables should sit on ?temples zero zip no play Designing and building for 50 years
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On May 23, 2023, at 7:50 AM, mac campshure <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Infeed ?adjust the hinge side co plane to out feed hinge edge than adjust temple bolts on operator side . Designing and building for 50 years On May 22, 2023, at 8:15 PM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
?Thanks Brian,
Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment.
I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up with the following:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 1: .043 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 2: .001 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 3: .086 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 4: .001 +/-
It's interesting that the two tables are close at the rear, but off at the front. I will have to think about my next step.
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I think 125 diameter is largest cutter under table to tilt with felder 700 series other wise nice size not to big or small , get run bearing to match 2 can be handy for tenons or high profiling. Designing and building for 50 years
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On May 23, 2023, at 5:54 AM, Andy <andy.raynor08@...> wrote:
? The INCRA router table is amazing. I have a shaper. It’s great for larger work but I find a router table indispensable in the work I do.?
The INCRA can do so many things, and being able to hog out rebates and grooves on the shaper then go directly to the router table is a big plus for my individual workflow.? Thanks for the input so far. It sounds like the group consensus would be to continue to use my router for the things it's good at. I built a very simple MDF table with a lift and homemade fence about 15 years ago. I was planning a serious upgrade like an Incra prior to buying the KF700. An Incra top and fence will run me almost as much as the Felder high speed spindle, not to mention still taking up about a 2'x3' footprint. I can certainly understand that removing the Aigner fence will be a PITA if I just need to use the saw briefly.?
Floor space is getting to be a premium. I just brought home a 3' x 5' granite surface plate that I need to work into the floor plan. Hmmm....
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
Infeed ?adjust the hinge side co plane to out feed hinge edge than adjust temple bolts on operator side . Designing and building for 50 years
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On May 22, 2023, at 8:15 PM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
?Thanks Brian,
Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment.
I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up with the following:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 1: .043 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 2: .001 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 3: .086 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 4: .001 +/-
It's interesting that the two tables are close at the rear, but off at the front. I will have to think about my next step.
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The INCRA router table is amazing. I have a shaper. It’s great for larger work but I find a router table indispensable in the work I do.?
The INCRA can do so many things, and being able to hog out rebates and grooves on the shaper then go directly to the router table is a big plus for my individual workflow.?
Thanks for the input so far. It sounds like the group consensus would be to continue to use my router for the things it's good at. I built a very simple MDF table with a lift and homemade fence about 15 years ago. I was planning a serious upgrade like an Incra prior to buying the KF700. An Incra top and fence will run me almost as much as the Felder high speed spindle, not to mention still taking up about a 2'x3' footprint. I can certainly understand that removing the Aigner fence will be a PITA if I just need to use the saw briefly.?
Floor space is getting to be a premium. I just brought home a 3' x 5' granite surface plate that I need to work into the floor plan. Hmmm....
|
Thanks for the input so far. It sounds like the group consensus would be to continue to use my router for the things it's good at. I built a very simple MDF table with a lift and homemade fence about 15 years ago. I was planning a serious upgrade like an Incra prior to buying the KF700. An Incra top and fence will run me almost as much as the Felder high speed spindle, not to mention still taking up about a 2'x3' footprint. I can certainly understand that removing the Aigner fence will be a PITA if I just need to use the saw briefly.?
Floor space is getting to be a premium. I just brought home a 3' x 5' granite surface plate that I need to work into the floor plan. Hmmm....
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
OK, just to confirm, you have the outfeed table set level to the cutterhead, correct??
If so, then first, check to see if your clamping the infeed table down and twisting it, you want to just barely tighten the clamp closest to the cutting head first to hold the table down and see what you have. If the temple bolt furthest from the cutterhead is too high, loosen it and drop it down. We want a three point contact, the two hinges and the closer temple bolt.
Then, adjust the non-hinge side to be the same distance below the outfeed table as the hinge side, so roughly .043” by jacking up the temple bolt. When the table is level to the cutterhead across the width, then double check the #2 and #4 points again.
If #2 and #4 are too low or high, you adjust the hinge closest to #2 to raise/lower the table to bring the table into coplanar with the outfeed.
Then the last step is to raise the temple bolt closest to #4 until it is just supporting the table, but not raising it. Now, you should be able to clamp the table as usual and not have it deflect.
Hope all that helps...
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 22, 2023, at 6:15 PM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
Thanks Brian,
Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment.
I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up with the following:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 1: .043 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 2: .001 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 3: .086 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 4: .001 +/-
It's interesting that the two tables are close at the rear, but off at the front. I will have to think about my next step.
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
Thanks Brian,
Obviously when I reinstalled the infeed table after installing the Shelix head, I thru the infeed table out of alignment.
I remeasured both tables according to your drawing and came up with the following:
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 1: .043 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 2: .001 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 3: .086 +/-
? ? ? ? ? ? ? Point 4: .001 +/-
It's interesting that the two tables are close at the rear, but off at the front. I will have to think about my next step.
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
Ok, long straight edge at the hinge side of the table, is the infeed the same height close to the cutterhead and far away from the cutterhead? If so, and the only issue is that it drops .020” as you come to the temple bolt side, then you can raise the temple bolts and the table will now be coplanar with the outfeed.
If the infeed table is different amounts of distance below the outfeed in a straight line, then you are going to have to adjust both the hinge and temple bolt side. See sketch below.
 Brian Lamb blamb11@... www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 22, 2023, at 3:16 PM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
The infeed table is not parallel to the outfeed in the long direction> It can't be because the whole infeed table is lower on the handle side and higher on the hinge side. So the choice is raise the handle side or lower the hinge side. Again, the difference is about .020".
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
The infeed table is not parallel to the outfeed in the long direction> It can't be because the whole infeed table is lower on the handle side and higher on the hinge side. So the choice is raise the handle side or lower the hinge side. Again, the difference is about .020".
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Re: A3-31 setup and calibration
If you have the infeed parallel to the outfeed in the long direction, but it’s not level side to side, then I would adjust your out board side by the handle.
Brian Lamb
blamb11@...
www.lambtoolworks.com
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On May 22, 2023, at 11:54 AM, Michael Gottlieb <westernsac@...> wrote:
I just finished converting a 15 yr. old A3-31 to a Shelix cutter head. I have my outfeed table in line with the new cutter head. My infeed table is not coplanar with the outfeed table. Should I attempt adjustment of the infeed table by raising the adjustment screws on the handle side, or lowering the adjustments screws on the hinge side? The difference in the infeed table from front to back is about .020". Any suggestions?
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I agree with David on this. ??I am certainly a lower skill level than most in this group? I have accumulated some heads but have others I
was sure I would use and have never put them on my shaper.
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?I recommend you NOT buy a collection of shaper tooling prospectively. ?Buy as you need them. ?I could make the case that everyone needs a rebate head, but when it comes to profile cutters and groovers, the type of projects you embark on will
have a lot of influence on which specific cutters to buy. ?I have some shaper cutters that I was convinced I would need and haven’t been used once in 20 years. ?
David Best - via mobile phone?
David Best - via mobile phone?
On May 22, 2023, at 6:52 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?For new shaper owners I always suggest 3 cutters to start with
1) a 125mm diameter carbide rebate head for rebates, planing, bevelling and pattern copying?
2) an adjustable groover for grooves, bridle joints and tenons.
3) a 40 or 40/50mm Euroblock head with limiters for steel knives, which will handle most of your solid wood profiling
As you have a Felder, I presume you have a curve guard, I would add a few back bearing guide rings including a 125mm one
Regards, Rod
-- Michael Marsico
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? I recommend you NOT buy a collection of shaper tooling prospectively. ?Buy as you need them. ?I could make the case that everyone needs a rebate head, but when it comes to profile cutters and groovers, the type of projects you embark on will have a lot of influence on which specific cutters to buy. ?I have some shaper cutters that I was convinced I would need and haven’t been used once in 20 years. ? David Best - via mobile phone? David Best - via mobile phone?
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On May 22, 2023, at 6:52 AM, rodsheridan <riderofgallifrey@...> wrote:
?For new shaper owners I always suggest 3 cutters to start with
1) a 125mm diameter carbide rebate head for rebates, planing, bevelling and pattern copying?
2) an adjustable groover for grooves, bridle joints and tenons.
3) a 40 or 40/50mm Euroblock head with limiters for steel knives, which will handle most of your solid wood profiling
As you have a Felder, I presume you have a curve guard, I would add a few back bearing guide rings including a 125mm one
Regards, Rod
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David P. Best