Another KF user here who wouldn't be without a router table. Even if it were one of the baby Veritas ones Tom Gensmer loves so much. Most of my round over type operations are with dedicated Bosch Colt routers. They are cheap enough I have 3 or 4 with dedicated functions. I have a pair of cordless Milwaukee routers also for specific veneer trimming use that are used dozens of times every day. That said the router table is still in use way more often than the shaper.
Jason?
Jason Holtz J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406 612.432.2765
-- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
I went back to work after acquiring the Felder dado set so it has not been used yet. I have 2 adj. 150mm grooving cutters covering the range of 4-28mm. I would like to learn if the felder dado works similar to the grooving cutters where I can make a tenon in one pass. I have not seen Felder dado advertised as such, so for now keeping my groovers. The groovers are also much easier to handle, so not sure if I would get rid of them.
On May 19, 2023, at 12:29 PM, Steven B <sb@...> wrote:
?Not to hijack this thread, but I pose a question for the group:
I'm still familiarizing myself with shaper cutters and operation...Would this dado set be compatible with a 30mm spindle shaper for grooving? And if so are there any downsides to using such large diameter tooling, versus something more standard such as 160mm diameter?
With my ear protection on, I cannot hear the blade brake (buzzing sound).? I had to turn off the dust collector and take off the ear pro before I could hear the buzzing.?
Roger S.-? On my computer, I can't make out the details on the circuit diagram in your post above.? Which manual do you have that shows these circuit drawings ?? My C3 manuals only show this one circuit schematic drawing (PDF attached). thanks,? Rich M.
My bad¡my machine does ?buzz but most noticeable after the Planer/thick esser had spun down¡.which it does well wthin the 10 seconds. ?The table saw also breaks but, having higher inertia, pretty much takes up the ten seconds and the noise from the blade spinning masks the buzz.
I have gone back to have another look and I¡¯d be keen to understand on average how long it takes others jointer helical heads or spindle router spindles to slow, the break might not be applied on my saw at all, that would make more sense than
two out of the three motors doing it and just not the saw because all other switching functionality works fine otherwise
I may reach out to Felder also for a question, looking for an exploded schematic of the C3 31. If anyone has one would you mind passing it on if it¡¯s pdf format
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what¡¯s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I¡¯m hoping something relevant comes up in this
post.
I have gone back to have another look and I¡¯d be keen to understand on average how long it takes others jointer helical heads or spindle router spindles to slow, the break might not be applied on my saw at all, that would make more sense than
two out of the three motors doing it and just not the saw because all other switching functionality works fine otherwise
I may reach out to Felder also for a question, looking for an exploded schematic of the C3 31. If anyone has one would you mind passing it on if it¡¯s pdf format
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what¡¯s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I¡¯m hoping something relevant comes up in this
post.
I have gone back to have another look and I¡¯d be keen to understand on average how long it takes others jointer helical heads or spindle router spindles to slow, the break might not be applied on my saw at all, that would make more sense than
two out of the three motors doing it and just not the saw because all other switching functionality works fine otherwise
I may reach out to Felder also for a question, looking for an exploded schematic of the C3 31. If anyone has one would you mind passing it on if it¡¯s pdf format
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what¡¯s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I¡¯m hoping something relevant comes up in this
post.
I have gone back to have another look and I¡¯d be keen to understand on average how long it takes others jointer helical heads or spindle router spindles to slow, the break might not be applied on my saw at all, that would make more sense than
two out of the three motors doing it and just not the saw because all other switching functionality works fine otherwise
I may reach out to Felder also for a question, looking for an exploded schematic of the C3 31. If anyone has one would you mind passing it on if it¡¯s pdf format
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what¡¯s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I¡¯m hoping something relevant comes up in this
post.
Nathan, my CF 741 saw has the buzzing sound. It used to stop quite quickly, but it now buzzes for a long time before stopping. I need to look into what¡¯s going on I suspect it will require some adjustment. I¡¯m hoping something relevant comes up in this post.
Mike, I forgot to bring up one other aspect of indexable groovers. ?If they have ¡°nickers¡± that ensure the vertical wall of the groove is cut cleanly, those nickers will leave ¡°bat ears¡± in the part being cut. ?These are the ¡°nickers¡± I¡¯m talking about, and they exist on the Felder dado cutters:
The ¡°bat ear¡± profile left by them is as shown in the image below. ?If you¡¯re doing heirloom furniture, the perfectionists among us can really protest the results of such a groove. ? Lots of people go to the trouble of honing down the nicker inserts so they cut just to the bottom of the groove rather than beyond it. ?
This might be an important consideration if you¡¯re working in a genre like Craftsman-type output (Green & Green &?Biedermeier come to mind).
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
Wow - just a year apart. ?Richael's undergrad commencement was 2013. ?I wonder if they knew each other. ?Currently she's in Ph.D program at U Washington. ?Private schools from K-onward - the meter just hit $1M. ?Hopefully this will come back in the form of eldercare soon enough. ?Liquidating my shop might help, but won¡¯t last long. ?LOL.
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On May 20, 2023, at 9:31 PM, Mark Foster <mfsta2lt@...> wrote:
David,?
Thank you for your YouTube video, I just reviewed it again in the last few days. After a couple years I finally decided to give it a shot at improving my tuning.?
I did not know your daughter was a Whitte, we have one class 2012.
Mark Foster
Bend, Oregon
On May 20, 2023, at 20:46, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?
?Hello Matt,?
Although I¡¯m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons. ?First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer¡¯s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
<sunrise-on-palouse-hills-randall-roberts.jpg>
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It¡¯s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You¡¯re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out. ?Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
David Best - via mobile phone?
On May 20, 2023, at 7:01 PM, fiftyeight180@... wrote:
?Hello All,
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
Thank you for your YouTube video, I just reviewed it again in the last few days. After a couple years I finally decided to give it a shot at improving my tuning.?
I did not know your daughter was a Whitte, we have one class 2012.
On May 20, 2023, at 20:46, David P. Best <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
?
?Hello Matt,?
Although I¡¯m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons. ?First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer¡¯s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
<sunrise-on-palouse-hills-randall-roberts.jpg>
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It¡¯s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You¡¯re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out. ?Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
David Best - via mobile phone?
On May 20, 2023, at 7:01 PM, fiftyeight180@... wrote:
?Hello All,
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
Although I¡¯m a bit of a distance from you (Portland Oregon), I know your area well for a few reasons. ?First, the rolling hills of the Pullman area are a photographer¡¯s paradise when the wheat crops come in and during harvest:
Second, you are close to the heart of some amazing wine areas - that I have frequented often.?
And third, you are very close to WallaWalla and Whitman College where my daughter got her degrees and I enjoyed visiting. ?Nice place.?
It¡¯s unfortunate that your sliding table is lower than the cast-iron top. That means you will have to go through a pretty serious adjustment process to bring it up to the proper height, and also ensure that it stays at the proper height throughout the full travel of the sliding table. You¡¯re going to need some special tools to do this, but the basic process I have laid out in a YouTube video that you can find at the following link. Attached is my latest suggestion for tools to commission and align your Felder equipment.
If you were just a bit closer I might drive up and help you out. ?Perhaps on my next travels to Seattle to visit my daughter I could be persuaded to divert into the wine country and out into the hills. We will see.
On May 20, 2023, at 7:01 PM, fiftyeight180@... wrote:
?Hello All,
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
<IMG_4974.JPG>
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
Randy texted me that link earlier. ?I am about to get a vintage bandsaw, but if not for that, I would find this of major interest if it runs as good as it looks. ?This is his website
I saw this also
According to the audio of his shop tour, he is in a space where the building just sold and the new owner wants the space, and so he needs to vacate with 3 weeks notice and has to downsize. ?That seems terrible. ?He was saying that it will be hard to find a space with 3 phase. ?I called him and suggested he think about a Phase Perfect and to consider coming to the FOG to get better advice than I am able to give.
I¡¯m also in Washington, In the Milton area. ?Never heard of Pomeroy, had to look that one up. ?Your way down in the corner of the state. ??? Enjoy your new machine.
I have a 2021 K700S, and my new AD941 is headed to terminal in Portland, OR for me to pick up next week.
On May 20, 2023, at 7:01 PM, fiftyeight180@... wrote:
?Hello All,
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
I am new to the group and have started assembly/set-up of my KF700S with electronic motor movements. The first sticker I figured out - the one showing to remove the two 8mm bolts before tilting the blade. I also found that answer in the group messages.?
A photo of the two identical stickers that I haven't figured out is attached and I assume someone can save me a call to Felder Tech...
The saw and 10' slider arrived undamaged (from shipping at least) and I was able to install the slider with the help of a lifting cart. However, the slider is consistently below the surface of the cast table at the shaper end...so more work to do there.
I would never give up my router table even though I have a Profil 45 shaper. ?For simple operations, the router table is far quicker to set up. ?However, part of its simplicity is that it¡¯s not part of the shaper. ?A router spindle for the shaper sounds on par with a shaper cutter in terms of setup time and fussing around. I do like the convenience of having the router table set up for edge-easing, leaving the shaper set up for more complex profile operations.
That said, if you wanted a round-over cutter for the shaper, Whitehill makes an indexable stepped cutter with 2-6mm radii, but check the cavity depth of your shaper to ensure this cutter will fully lower into the spindle hole:
I have a Freud Industrial round-over indexable shaper cutter that I just love. ?According to the Freud Industrial catalog it is still available. ?You can download their catalog here: ?
The cutter I have is the TP31M - it will cut 8-17.5mm radius concave or convex profiles for edging work. ?It¡¯s a 160mm diameter cutter with a 35mm arbor hole that I have a dedicated top-hat bushing pair to shim it down to 30mm. ?The inserts are HSS and easily sharpened, duplicated or made into other radii at a good sharpening shop.
Here are some photos:
David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On May 20, 2023, at 3:45 PM, Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:
Ok, time to tap the group knowledge. I've got a Felder KF700, 1.25" spindle that I acquired but haven't used the shaper yet.
I recently attended Alpine Workshop with a few great new friends. It was a great learning experience, but somehow I never got around to asking the following question, so here it goes:
I would like to use the shaper to replace my existing router table, mostly to regain that floor space. I could spend $1k to buy the high speed router spindle, but that seems pretty drastic, especially given the disadvantages of bits vs cutters.?
If you had to choose between spending $1k on a high speed spindle or putting that money towards cutters that do similar jobs, what would you choose? Most of my router bits are pretty standard round overs and beads. My shaper came with cope and stick, panel-raising, and chamfer cutters, so I have already "replaced" those.
Looking at Amana's carbide-tipped cutters, I could buy their whole line of round overs and rub collars for under $1k. Or would insert cutters be better? If so, which head and cutters do you recommend?
I got to use the asking Rangate products at Alpine Workshop, but I'm not sure that $2k for their multi purpose cutter is the most cost effective choice for a hobbyist workshop. But, I'm open to suggestions.
On Sat, May 20, 2023 at 6:45 PM Brandon Nickel <brandon.nickel@...> wrote:
Ok, time to tap the group knowledge. I've got a Felder KF700, 1.25" spindle that I acquired but haven't used the shaper yet.
I recently attended Alpine Workshop with a few great new friends. It was a great learning experience, but somehow I never got around to asking the following question, so here it goes:
I would like to use the shaper to replace my existing router table, mostly to regain that floor space. I could spend $1k to buy the high speed router spindle, but that seems pretty drastic, especially given the disadvantages of bits vs cutters.?
If you had to choose between spending $1k on a high speed spindle or putting that money towards cutters that do similar jobs, what would you choose? Most of my router bits are pretty standard round overs and beads. My shaper came with cope and stick, panel-raising, and chamfer cutters, so I have already "replaced" those.
Looking at Amana's carbide-tipped cutters, I could buy their whole line of round overs and rub collars for under $1k. Or would insert cutters be better? If so, which head and cutters do you recommend?
I got to use the asking Rangate products at Alpine Workshop, but I'm not sure that $2k for their multi purpose cutter is the most cost effective choice for a hobbyist workshop. But, I'm open to suggestions.