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Re: A3-41 Table Adjustments #hammer #jointerplaner #jpsetup

 

When I had my Felder engineer here for my Hammer C3 31 he had several tips regarding the jointer beds, maybe it will be of use for you:
  • If you have to replace the cutter head and need to start all over, start with the infeed bed and align it to the cutter head not the other way around
  • Only if you have your infeed bed aligned to the cutter head, then align the outfeed bed
  • I also took some notes while he was talking back then:
    • The planer outfeed bed needs to be 0.04mm lower then the highest point of the cutter head
    • At the thicknesser table, the infeed roller needs to be 0.9mm under the lowest point of the cutter head, the outfeed roller 0.3mm lower then the lowest point of the cutter head
Have you made any progress in the meantime?
Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 
Edited

Here is another diy guard from Mike Farrington.?
?
Jay

On Fri, Mar 10, 2023 at 2:54 AM aero_qfi <davesawdon@...> wrote:

My question seems to have started a good discussion.
There's an interesting design (similar to the commercial offerings people have mentioned) here: ?I particularly like the simple addition of an extra "barrier" for catching dust with edge cuts.

Dave (in the UK)

?

?
Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

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Hi Dave,

Yes. Thanks for starting this thread. It’s something I need to think about and I can see the many advantages of this type of system. Axminster Tools have a few options available. I'm still a long way from finishing the restoration of my CF731.

Barrie (Also from the UK)

Image.jpeg

Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

My question seems to have started a good discussion.
There's an interesting design (similar to the commercial offerings people have mentioned) here: ?I particularly like the simple addition of an extra "barrier" for catching dust with edge cuts.

Dave (in the UK)
Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert? #jointerplaner

 

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I have Tersa on my Dual 51 and love it. ?Except when a contractor friend came over with 250 feet of 16” wide rough live oak to do S2S. ?We emptied the RL160 every single board. ?If you’re planning a lot of production with the planer, the chip volume with Tersa is easily 3-4 times that of my Dewalt lunchbox planer with spiral cutter.

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best





On Mar 9, 2023, at 7:44 PM, Tom Morris <morrist@...> wrote:

I have both the machines you’re looking at with Tersa. The president of Martin USA at the time recommended the Tersa, I have no regrets .

Tom Morris?
Wichita, KS

Re: Martin cutter blocks - which one tersa or xylent type carbide insert? #jointerplaner

 

I have both the machines you’re looking at with Tersa. The president of Martin USA at the time recommended the Tersa, I have no regrets .

Tom Morris?
Wichita, KS
Re: Any experience with GDP Tooling?

 

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Tom,

Those router bits/shanks are made by Guhdo. ?I don’t own those specific bits, but I do own other shaper tooling made by Guhdo and it’s excellent quality. ?At one time most of the shaper tooling offered by Felder was private labeled from Guhdo - I’d be surprised if that isn’t the case today.

David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best



On Mar 9, 2023, at 10:53 AM, tom@... wrote:

I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??

It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?

I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?

GDP Tooling router shaft:??

GDP Tooling extension:??

GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??

It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

Re: Any experience with GDP Tooling?

 

Tom, in Europe these are ok for industrial boring gear, in metric and imperial.


Don't know about availability your side of the pond.
I generally buy from a company in Italy and find the delivery and service good.

Kindest regards

Jonathan Samways



On Thu, 9 Mar 2023, 9:24 pm mac campshure via , <mac512002=[email protected]> wrote:
Tom?
I would be looking at Scherr ?router
These are serious routers great features?
Mac,,



martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Mar 9, 2023, at 12:53 PM, tom@... wrote:

?I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??

It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?

I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?

GDP Tooling router shaft:??

GDP Tooling extension:??

GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??

It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

IMG_9892.png

Re: Any experience with GDP Tooling?

 

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Tom?
I would be looking at Scherr ?router
These are serious routers great features?
Mac,,

IMG_9892

martin/campshure/co/llc
mac campshure
7412 elmwood ave.
middleton, wi 53562-3106
608-332-2330?cell

Designing and building for 50 years


On Mar 9, 2023, at 12:53 PM, tom@... wrote:

?I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??

It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?

I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?

GDP Tooling router shaft:??

GDP Tooling extension:??

GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??

It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

Any experience with GDP Tooling?

 

I'm currently working on dialing-in some details on a project using Tectus hinges, and am seeing the option to use router bits from GDP Tooling, and was wondering if users here had any input/feedback??

It appears that the GDP router bits utilize a 1/2" shank bit with a M12x1 threaded stud. From here, users can add varying lengths of extensions, capping with a variety of diameters of cutting tools.?

I'm currently using a Templaco template, but am finding it rather cumbersome, and am inclined to go with the Simonswerk template system. With the Simonswerk template, there is an option for an Imperial or Metric version, with the guidance from Simonswerk that the Metric version is more precise.?

GDP Tooling router shaft:??

GDP Tooling extension:??

GDP Tooling 24mm cutter:??

It appears that there is a decent selection of tooling out there which accepts this M12x1 thread pattern, could be interesting for certain mortising operations....??
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

John,

I would assume Felder made some improvements. The tension must be adjustable. Remove 4 machine screws, so you can see how the guard is held in place.

James


On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 1:20?PM John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
James, this is what mine looks like. My saw, K700S, arrived about 11 or 12 months ago.

--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941

Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

James, this is what mine looks like. My saw, K700S, arrived about 11 or 12 months ago.

--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

John,

Yes, tension can be adjusted on the black knob. There is a nylon cap at the tip of the knob inside. After?removing the machine screws, I got access to the nylon cap, just turned it counterclockwise.

I am surprised that your overhead guard does not have the knob. Mine is 2016 KF700sp. Can you post a picture of your overhead guard?

Capture.JPG


James


On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 12:45?PM John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:
I had the Shark guard on my Unisaw. I liked it, and the dust collection was pretty good. My saw did not have a riving knife, though, so the guard was attached to the table. Every time I adjusted the blade height I had to manually adjust the height of the Shark. That was a nuisance.

I like my Felder overarm guard, even though I would change a few things if I could. James Zhu, is the black knob in your picture part of the guard? Does that adjust the tension? My set-up does not have anything like that.

David Best, my guard has a different set-up. There is a bolt that secures the arm in place. What you did is exactly what I would like to have on mine!

--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941

Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

I had the Shark guard on my Unisaw. I liked it, and the dust collection was pretty good. My saw did not have a riving knife, though, so the guard was attached to the table. Every time I adjusted the blade height I had to manually adjust the height of the Shark. That was a nuisance.

I like my Felder overarm guard, even though I would change a few things if I could. James Zhu, is the black knob in your picture part of the guard? Does that adjust the tension? My set-up does not have anything like that.

David Best, my guard has a different set-up. There is a bolt that secures the arm in place. What you did is exactly what I would like to have on mine!

--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941
Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 12:16 PM, Aaron Inami wrote:
Interesting.? The video on the Harvey web page shows the guy pushing the guard “away” from his operator position instead of pulling it towards him.
If you're referring to the video about the Harvey workstation that's on the page you linked, I don't even see the guard being moved in that video.? Perhaps there's another video out there, or I'm just not realizing the part where the guard is moved.

However if you look at the first picture on the page that shows the guard you can see two little black (rubber) cylinders where the shiny vertical metal arm meets the black base.? One cylinder is vertical, the other is horizontal.? The vertical one is attached to the base and is the stop.? The horizontal one is attached to the vertical piece and rotates as the guard pivots.? If you try to push the guard away (toward the back of the saw) then the cylinders will collide and the pivot motion will stop.? If you move the guard toward the front then the cylinders will get further apart, thus allowing the pivot.
Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

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If the overhead guard pivot-latch mechanism is anything like my Kappa 400, it’s pretty simple to add a release mechanism at the slider-side of the machine. ?Have a look at this mod:



David Best - via mobile phone?

David Best - via mobile phone?

On Mar 9, 2023, at 8:01 AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?This sounds like an interesting project.

I have the Felder overhead guard, and like it but would change a couple of things if I could. I’ll throw these out just for ideas:

First, the Felder guard is hard to lift. I have to use two hands to adjust the clearance over the work piece. If I could make that easier to operate I would. I’ve tried to adjust the tension in the guides but have not had success.

Second, sometimes the guard ?has to be moved completely out of the way. On my Felder that means walking around to the back of the machine and unscrewing a bolt. Putting it back in place means another trip around the machine. If there was a way to release the guard from the operator’s normal position that would be really convenient.

Third, even though the guard itself is clear it is not easy to see the blade to check for blade height and such. Not sure how to fix that. If it was easier to lift the guard a bit that might not be so much of an issue.

Lastly, the dust collection is not great. Collection is through a part of the support arm, and between the small area and the sharp corners in the route the air flow is restricted.

Just some things to think about. I hope to see what you come up with!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941

Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

开云体育

Interesting.? The video on the Harvey web page shows the guy pushing the guard “away” from his operator position instead of pulling it towards him.

?

-Aaron

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Steve Wurster
Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2023 9:07 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [FOG] Overarm saw (crown) guard

?

I have the Harvey guard that Aaron linked to mounted to my Hammer K3.? It's really well made and works fairly well.? Like all / most of these, the collection when trimming an edge is poor.? I've messed around with ideas on how to improve that but didn't yet make anything that works really well.

While the guard pivots out the way easily, the direction of pivot is toward the operator, so it's unlikely that "falling" into the guard will cause any problems because the guard won't be able to move any further.? However as John pointed out for the Felder one, the lock on the Harvey is also at the pivot point, so I have to walk all the way around the saw to lock / unlock when needed.

Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

Dave, have a look at Scott and sargents site, recently?they sent me a flyer on overhead guards, they might have something interesting.?

On Thu, 9 Mar 2023 at 17:43, James Zhu <james.zhu2@...> wrote:
I have the overhead guard on my KF700sp. As you probably know, I hate the changeover between the saw and the shaper. I bet money that Martin will never make a saw/shaper combo.

But I do like the overhead guard, I think every saw should have an overhead guard. I cannot watch people using their hand?to push the wood thru the spinning blade so closely.

I recently adjusted the tension on my overhead guard. My issue was the guard would not hold the position. Just remove 4 machine screws, you will know how to adjust the tension on the knob, very easy to do.

IMG_3056.JPG

James

On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 11:24?AM Wade Dees <wjdsignature@...> wrote:
Hi John,

After researching and asking around about the Felder overhead guard, many of your listed thoughts are why I’ve decided to live without it. ????

Thx,

Wade



On Mar 9, 2023, at 8:01 AM, John Hinman <jhinman1911@...> wrote:

?This sounds like an interesting project.

I have the Felder overhead guard, and like it but would change a couple of things if I could. I’ll throw these out just for ideas:

First, the Felder guard is hard to lift. I have to use two hands to adjust the clearance over the work piece. If I could make that easier to operate I would. I’ve tried to adjust the tension in the guides but have not had success.

Second, sometimes the guard ?has to be moved completely out of the way. On my Felder that means walking around to the back of the machine and unscrewing a bolt. Putting it back in place means another trip around the machine. If there was a way to release the guard from the operator’s normal position that would be really convenient.

Third, even though the guard itself is clear it is not easy to see the blade to check for blade height and such. Not sure how to fix that. If it was easier to lift the guard a bit that might not be so much of an issue.

Lastly, the dust collection is not great. Collection is through a part of the support arm, and between the small area and the sharp corners in the route the air flow is restricted.

Just some things to think about. I hope to see what you come up with!
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
K700S and A941



--
Kindest Regards

Jonathan Samways

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Re: Overarm saw (crown) guard

 

I have the Harvey guard that Aaron linked to mounted to my Hammer K3.? It's really well made and works fairly well.? Like all / most of these, the collection when trimming an edge is poor.? I've messed around with ideas on how to improve that but didn't yet make anything that works really well.

While the guard pivots out the way easily, the direction of pivot is toward the operator, so it's unlikely that "falling" into the guard will cause any problems because the guard won't be able to move any further.? However as John pointed out for the Felder one, the lock on the Harvey is also at the pivot point, so I have to walk all the way around the saw to lock / unlock when needed.

Re: Saw controls on slider

 

The Felder level table saws (K500, K700, etc) all use low voltage wire that is ultimately connected to the saw chassis (i.e. ground).? The following thread explains a bit on how it's done:

/g/felderownersgroup/topic/96460647#127960

I think it was a 24V DC current fed from a coil.? The 24V "hot" wire is connected to one of the slider rails which has been isolated from the machine (i.e. ground).? The hot rail is connected to a 470ohm resistor (to provide load) and a contactor switch at the end of the table.? This is ultimately connected back to the slider table and ground which provides a complete circuit.? Once you push the "stop" button at the end of the slider, it breaks the contact in the circuit.? The control box inside the saw detects the broken circuit and shuts down the saw motors.

-Aaron Inami

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