开云体育

Does anyone have any documentation or wiring diagrams for this feature.? My cable, unfortunately, has been damaged from handling.? It appears to be a 2-conductor cable with two black wires that are wired to the conductive sliding table rails.? The connection is, in turn, picked up by other wires that connect to Eaton M22-CK10 and M22-CK01 push button contact blocks at the end of the sliding table where the power buttons are.? Does anyone have any documentation or wiring diagrams for this feature?? I can easily repair this cable, but my concern is that it carries DC power where the polarity of the wires are critical.

Hi Aaron,?

Oh-no!! I'm sorry to hear about your damaged wire. I have to admit, I was really worried about mine during assembly. I have a recent model KF700 w/ remote start, I'll see if I can carve out some time on Monday to dig up my documentation and see if I can find a wiring diagram.?

In the mean time, I'd suggest submitting a ticket to Felder Service here:??

I've found that Felder Service normally takes a couple days to follow up, but when they do they can provide most (if not all) of the documentation related to your machine, as well as guidance about repairs.?

It is my understanding that the current generation remote start uses a radio frequency signal to tell the saw to start, while the "stop" signal is hardwired, using the slider as part of the circuit.?

A side note relating to the remote start, I was experiencing intermittent issues with my remote start, where sometimes it worked, sometimes it didn't (it always worked to "Stop", didn't always work to "Start"). After keeping a "diary" of when the adverse behavior was taking place, I think I've tracked it down to ambient temperature. My shop is not air conditioned (hoping to add a mini-split this Spring), and I observed that the remote start tended to not properly work during the summer months, when my thermostat regularly would read "99F". It's still unclear to me whether it was actually 99F, or if it was warmer but the thermostat only reads to double digits. Either way, every surface in the shop was warm to the touch, and I imagine that the warm temperatures were not playing nice with some of the electronics. Either way, the Felder techs were very generous with their time, and spent several hours working with me to trouble shoot the issue. Lesson learned: Keep the shop at a reasonable temperature....

I'll see what I can come up with, and hopefully Felder can help as well. Good luck!?



--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN

I got a call back from Felder technical support today with the low-down on how this works.? It turns out that this wiring is a DC current and polarity is critical.? One of the wires is "HOT" DC current and the other wire is ground.? The HOT DC wire is connected to a rail that is isolated from the aluminum base.? Below is a picture of my rails.? If you look closely, the rail in the left has isolation tape where it is mounted onto the aluminum base (almost looks like duct tape).? This is the HOT rail.? The HOT wire leads to one of the Eaton M22 contact blocks and also goes through a resistor to provide some load for the DC current (measured 470 ohms on my machine).? The returning wire from the contact block leads back to the ground rail to provide a full circuit.? When you power the saw on, these wires are expected to carry DC current.? When you push the "STOP" button, it breaks the connection and tells the saw to power off.?

This rail wiring is only for the stop button.? European regulations state that if you have a START button, you must have a "STOP" button right next to it and it must be hard wired to ensure it works 100% of the timed.? This functions sort of like how semi truck brakes are held open with compressed air during driving.? The DC current in the circuit is "held open" to allow the saw to run.? If there is any event which causes this DC current to stop, it will power down the saw.? Elements like radio frequency remote or remote batteries cannot be used here because they do not have a 100% non-failure rate (they could fail at any time which defeats the purpose of an emergency stop).

The internal wires have a "1" and "2" printed on them so I can tell which one is DC HOT.? On my machine, the "1" wire is DC hot, so it's a simple thing to repair the broken connection.? I am still having the Felder guy look into the cost and timeline for ordering a new cable.? Worse case scenario, I just butt-connect the wires for a quick repair.

Tom,

With regards to your intermittent issue with remote during hot summers, I do have some thoughts.

The Felder guy did say the "ON" button was essentially an RF garage-door style remote that runs off a 9-volt battery.? This is accessible by taking off the metal cover underneath the remote button tray (at the end of the slider).? The metal plate is mounted using four small T-8 torx screws.? This was news to me, lol.? The transmitter circuit is strapped to a metal plate that is mounted to the plastic tray.

It has been my experience that some digital circuits will become "glitchy" when there is high ambient heat.? A hot summer day in the 105-115 degree range can definitely cause a problem here.? Also, the operating range of a 9V batter tops out at about 130 F.?? Some batteries may be better than others in high temp situations.

If you are not running air conditioning, you could grab a couple bags of frozen peas.? Put one inside the tray on top.? Strap the other one to the bottom of the tray and let these sit for about 10-15 minutes.? That should cool down the casing and internal metal plate temperature enough where you don't have intermittent glitches.