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My tennis elbows would absolutely love it if I found an easier way to hold parts while dominoing. Been thinking about an MFT style table, or something with t slots to hold my pneumatic clamps for this

Roger, Glad you are making progress. I was able to easily such components online. I have replaced on/off switches and others have replaced emergency stops this way. Look for a PN on the component and

Imran All the functions work just fine as far as I can see. The machine isn’t under warranty anymore….unless it’s more than one year ! Spoke to Felder again and this time managed to speak to a

Roger, I am not sure how exactly felder Ebrake works but a common way for Ebrake to work is to apply reverse current. It is able to do so with motor switch off but I assume selector switch may allow

I guess if the controlling relay is stuck on or the red/green buttons are malfunctioning (keeping relay on) and there is a gross short in the motor that could happen and produce the hum. I had a motor

Hi Roger, Understand your logic but usually humming comes from Ebrake action when it is working normally. Does this humming you describe sound similar? The other reason for humming would be the

It's definitely the thermal trip that goes. But only when the selector switch is set to P/T and even with the P/T motor not running ie machine in Off mode

Many thanks for the quick reply, Imran. I did wonder about the brake board but the machine is braking normally. Nevertheless I will check it out but where is it located ? It still doesn’t explain

Usually, what you describe is electric brake related. You can take a look and see if you notice a burned component on the brake board. In my case it was a capacitor. In my electrical schematic there

Hi All I thicknessed one piece of wood this morning. Turned it off. Noticed that there still remained a buzzing sound coming from the P/T. Didn't think any more of it. Changed tables out of

I guess it was around 22 years ago that I made those jigs for the shutters. ?Here is a picture from that article and a picture of one of the jigs. ?I would have used baltic birch if I made the jigs

I think the pods are most helpful for sanding/routing rails, stiles and drawer parts. I haven’t tried the domino yet. Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2020 4:06 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re:

I believe you’re correct, Imran. Sent: Sunday, June 21, 2020 4:14 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [FOG] vacuum clamp to hold down parts for sanding/routing works well Thanks Marty. I

Thanks Marty. I assume one can say that clamping force is 10PSI. I am just guessing here that in order to break seal one needs to overcome the entire holding force. Kind of counter intuitive. Imran

I have to be honest, since I've the Bridgewood 16" widebelt the vacuum pads haven't been needed for sanding that much. A non slip pad on a bench works well for most sheet good components for cabinets.

According to a woodworking webpage the hold down force can be roughly calculated by: 10 x (length x width of clamping area). So a 1” x 16” pod would have 160 lbs of force. This assumes you system

The amount of force holding the wood down is partially a function of the pod clamping area. The pods I’ve seen are a minimum of 4” square so to get the equivalent force with a 1” wide clamp it

Marty, My thick head is not following this: “ Narrow stock needs to be fairly long to get reasonable clamping force.” Imran

The bar, in my video, is made or sold by Rockler. It sits on the back side of the louver, so is barely visible when the shutters are in place, regardless of whether the louvers are open or closed.

One of the reasons I made mine pods was because the commercially available units were too wide to hold narrow stock. Narrow stock needs to be fairly long to get reasonable clamping force. Sent: