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Re: Barth Multipress RP3001 with clamps and casework supports [Seattle area]
missed a picture. ? note how the magswitches are used. ?In my case, I make something that attached to the back of the perforated plate, but you can make something that attaches that way to the frame. ?I find that this is a great way to store things on machine sides in general.
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Re: Barth Multipress RP3001 with clamps and casework supports [Seattle area]
I saw the mention by my friend Dave. ?I would not say you will kick yourself later if you sell it ..... assuming you do not or will not use it and think you are better off using the space in a better way. ?I think if you really do not use something, you should sell it (ideal), donate, give away, or throw. away. ?Space has value! ?Even if you find a clever way to position the unit and store things behind it, that does not matter if you do not find value in keeping it.
?
Now, as for use, it is mentioned that it was once used for large cabinet and case work, but not really being used that way at this time. ?It is certainly setup for gluing large boxes as pictured. ?The usefulness depends on how it is used. ?If I were to only use it for a rare large box, I would not want to have one either.
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However, I use mine often as my main use is for gluing boards together where I do not need depth. ?It could be for drawer parts when one board is not wide enough (often the case), or a panel door, or a face frame, or a table top. ?Super easy and fast! ?The attachments for large boxes are stored behind the multiples most of the time.
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I attached a couple of pictures of how I use the space in the back of the multipress, and along the back wall behind the muitipress. ?By not having it backed up against a wall or garage door, true, I lose some space in front of the press. ?However, I gain a LOT of storage both in the back of the unit and behind the unit while just allowing enough room to walk behind the multipress.
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My unit has the perforating plate. ?I do not use that with the clamps. ?If I had a much longer multipress, I would or if I had different applications I would. ? If anyone wants up to 4 of these unused clamps at a price way below new, please let me know (see attached). ?As an FYI, they can be adapted to use on the Barth vacuum table and I believe they can be used with the 20mm perforated Festool top with these
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I have these clamps for my Barth Bench. ?They are great. ?I just do not use more than a couple at a time on the bench and do not need the extras.
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Bryce,
Thanks so much for the video, it’s cleared up my understanding of the hood - I bought mine at auction recently and now realise I don’t have the ring fence part, just the hood itself. Given how often I’m likely to use this, I’ll order the ring fence part
rather than get into rub collars, as whilst I can see they’re useful, I also see that I have more scope for adjusting the depth when using a ring fence.
Anyway, thanks so much for taking the time to help, it’s very much appreciated!
Cheers, Morgan.
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On 6 Apr 2025, at 17:35, Bryce Comer via groups.io <bryce@...> wrote:
?
Hi Morgan,
is a video that goes part way to explaining the hood for curved work. As i write this, i am thinking i should go into more depth on the hood itself, & so will
try to incorporate more detail in the next video on doing curved work on the shaper involving the use of rub collars including jig design.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
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Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood
Yes - “most” but not “all”. ?Even though, as he says, "don't even have a head to toss on” the shaper, just turning on the shaper spindle and observe the yellow “reverse” light would tell a lot about the condition. ?I seriously doubt the outrigger position or contacting the blade would trigger the machine to shut down unless it’s triggering the stop circuit via vibration. ?The idea the outrigger position or blade contact would disrupt the 24V circuit is tin-foil-hat thinking IMO. ?Since his machine is single-phase, there could be an issue with he internal VFD, but his statement "Able to switch off and back on at machine so does not come back on without cycling power switch” suggests to me that it’s the stop-circuit as the culprit here. ?I would suggest the following. ?When the machine stops during a cut, cycle the reverse switch on the shaper and observe the yellow indicator light to see if it turns on. ?Report here. ?If that light does illuminate when the reverse switch is toggled, then it’s probably not the stop-circuit at fault here, and more likely a bad relay, or some other issue with the VFD. ? If that light does not illuminate, then it’s most likely the stop circuit, which could be one of the microswitches, bad connection to the “Stop” button switches, dirty slider bearing ways, or poor connection from the electronic panel to the stop switches.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Apr 6, 2025, at 4:25?PM, imran via groups.io <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:
Hi David,
Not sure if you got all msgs but Kyle responded to most if not all questions. I have heard of this happening when xcutting on the slider, not necessarily with material hitting the blade though. However, depending upon where the outrigger is positioned on the slider, it may seem like the material contacting the blade is causing the shutdown but in reality it is just that the slider has travelled a certain amount causing a break in signal as you mentioned. Besides cleaning the ways it may also be prudent to check the wiring related to the slider switches as well.
Kyle mentioned he was ripping, so not sure if the slider was locked while he was doing the ripping. That would make a dirty micro switch a possible culprit.
Another possibility is the overload relay that senses current. Brian also mentioned this. This is usually labeled as 2K1 in the electrical cabinet.
Imran Malik
On Apr 6, 2025, at 6:18?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote:
? There is not enough information here for us to really be helpful. ?Please reply with answers to Brian’s questions. ?Without hearing more, I’d be very suspicious that the issue is related to the stop circuit connected through the sliding table to the switches at “the end of the wagon.” ? That circuit runs through the bearings, and if that circuit is broken (for just a millisecond) because of poor contact induced by the vibration of the saw starting to cut, that would produce the behavior you observe. ?Try cleaning the bearing ways of the lower and upper sliding table extrusions. ?Douse it with a solvent like WD-40, run the slider back and forth several times, then clean the ways several times to remove the solvent. ?Of course there are a bunch of other possibilities, but I’d start with that.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Apr 6, 2025, at 1:50?PM, Kyle Stiefel via groups.io <kstiefel@...> wrote:
Update:
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So went through everything getting dust out of all the nooks and crannies as the day went on.?
?
Initially it let me then restart the saw from the wagon or frame without recycling the on/off but would still cut out when I tried to cut about 3/4."? I did not try thinner stuff.
?
I then kept messing around and cleaning as the no longer switching the main switch on/off was a change with the policing of dust around the unit.?
?
Finally got it to rip 2 sticks of 8/4 maple which is how I had started the day but then ran out of time for the day as the family calls.?
?
Fingers crossed next weekend I can actually meet my goals from this weekend.
?
Who knows but the sawdust was likely causing an electronic gremlin somehow.??
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Re: Need 12" digital caliper
Aaron,
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You are going to love having a 12" caliper in the shop but don't think it stops there? ? One day you will be at an estate sale and say "Ooh, what's in that big box over there? ?Is that a 16" caliper? I probably need that!" ? Came in handy when I was measuring my J/P head the other day but I couldn't directly measure the entire shaft. ? Now I want a 24" one. ? It's a slippery slope my friend. ?you have been warned?
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-Rusty
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Re: Aftermarket saw blade guard for Hammer Winner
I had that SawStop guard on my Ridgid Contractor's Saw back before I got the slider.? It worked pretty well; definitely better than the stock K3 guard and currently better than my Harvey Shark setup (which as I noted earlier is probably limited due to my DC setup).? You might not be getting much dust off the blade because it looks like you are running with the stock blade insert rather than a zero-clearance style.? There's little room for dust to go down into the cabinet with zero-clearance, but the overall benefits seem to outweigh that negative.
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At one point I mounted the SawStop guard to the stock K3 riving knife.? It was a hack, but it was possible.? One annoyance was how far it extends compared to the stock guard, although I guess the Harvey Shark unit is just as large (but a different style of course).? The other annoyance is that backing up the slider after making a cut would mean the piece on the slider would slam into the back of the guard's "wing" and either prevent / hinder the reverse movement of the slider or cause the entire guard to violently pop up.? Neither was acceptable for me, so I scrapped that plan fairly quickly.
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Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood
Hi David,
Not sure if you got all msgs but Kyle responded to most if not all questions. I have heard of this happening when xcutting on the slider, not necessarily with material hitting the blade though. However, depending upon where the outrigger is positioned on the slider, it may seem like the material contacting the blade is causing the shutdown but in reality it is just that the slider has travelled a certain amount causing a break in signal as you mentioned. Besides cleaning the ways it may also be prudent to check the wiring related to the slider switches as well.
Kyle mentioned he was ripping, so not sure if the slider was locked while he was doing the ripping. That would make a dirty micro switch a possible culprit.
Another possibility is the overload relay that senses current. Brian also mentioned this. This is usually labeled as 2K1 in the electrical cabinet.
Imran Malik
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On Apr 6, 2025, at 6:18?PM, David P. Best via groups.io <dbestworkshop@...> wrote: ? There is not enough information here for us to really be helpful. ?Please reply with answers to Brian’s questions. ?Without hearing more, I’d be very suspicious that the issue is related to the stop circuit connected through the sliding table to the switches at “the end of the wagon.” ? That circuit runs through the bearings, and if that circuit is broken (for just a millisecond) because of poor contact induced by the vibration of the saw starting to cut, that would produce the behavior you observe. ?Try cleaning the bearing ways of the lower and upper sliding table extrusions. ?Douse it with a solvent like WD-40, run the slider back and forth several times, then clean the ways several times to remove the solvent. ?Of course there are a bunch of other possibilities, but I’d start with that.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
On Apr 6, 2025, at 1:50?PM, Kyle Stiefel via groups.io <kstiefel@...> wrote:
Update:
?
So went through everything getting dust out of all the nooks and crannies as the day went on.?
?
Initially it let me then restart the saw from the wagon or frame without recycling the on/off but would still cut out when I tried to cut about 3/4."? I did not try thinner stuff.
?
I then kept messing around and cleaning as the no longer switching the main switch on/off was a change with the policing of dust around the unit.?
?
Finally got it to rip 2 sticks of 8/4 maple which is how I had started the day but then ran out of time for the day as the family calls.?
?
Fingers crossed next weekend I can actually meet my goals from this weekend.
?
Who knows but the sawdust was likely causing an electronic gremlin somehow.??
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Re: Need 12" digital caliper
I have the??unit which I love, but I wanted something less precious for everyday “burner” type use. ?So I just recently bought this one from Amazon, which is fine. ?One of the things I like about it is that the battery cover is held in place by a tiny screw, so it’s less likely to fly off into the bowls of the shop never to be found again.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Apr 6, 2025, at 2:47?PM, imran via groups.io <imranwoodshop@...> wrote:
?I am very happy with shars. I wanted one with 2032 battery and large digits. I know there is another Shars model and I was struggling between them but I like what I ended up getting. Smooth movement and reasonable price. Did not know they come with 4 decimal points.
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On Apr 6, 2025, at 5:16?PM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
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Hey guys.? I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper.?? I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so.?? There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.).?? Can anyone recommend a decent one??? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers.? The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement.?? I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think.
?
-Aaron Inami
Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood
There is not enough information here for us to really be helpful. ?Please reply with answers to Brian’s questions. ?Without hearing more, I’d be very suspicious that the issue is related to the stop circuit connected through the sliding table to the switches at “the end of the wagon.” ? That circuit runs through the bearings, and if that circuit is broken (for just a millisecond) because of poor contact induced by the vibration of the saw starting to cut, that would produce the behavior you observe. ?Try cleaning the bearing ways of the lower and upper sliding table extrusions. ?Douse it with a solvent like WD-40, run the slider back and forth several times, then clean the ways several times to remove the solvent. ?Of course there are a bunch of other possibilities, but I’d start with that.
David Best
DBestWorkshop@...
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/
https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best
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On Apr 6, 2025, at 1:50?PM, Kyle Stiefel via groups.io <kstiefel@...> wrote:
Update:
?
So went through everything getting dust out of all the nooks and crannies as the day went on.?
?
Initially it let me then restart the saw from the wagon or frame without recycling the on/off but would still cut out when I tried to cut about 3/4."? I did not try thinner stuff.
?
I then kept messing around and cleaning as the no longer switching the main switch on/off was a change with the policing of dust around the unit.?
?
Finally got it to rip 2 sticks of 8/4 maple which is how I had started the day but then ran out of time for the day as the family calls.?
?
Fingers crossed next weekend I can actually meet my goals from this weekend.
?
Who knows but the sawdust was likely causing an electronic gremlin somehow.??
|
Re: Need 12" digital caliper
?I am very happy with shars. I wanted one with 2032 battery and large digits. I know there is another Shars model and I was struggling between them but I like what I ended up getting. Smooth movement and reasonable price. Did not know they come with 4 decimal points.
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On Apr 6, 2025, at 5:16?PM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
?
Hey guys.? I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper.?? I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so.?? There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.).?? Can anyone recommend a decent one??? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers.? The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement.?? I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think.
?
-Aaron Inami
Re: Need 12" digital caliper
I am very happy with shars. I wanted one with 2032 battery and large digits. I know there is another Shars model and I was struggling between them but I like what I ended up getting. Smooth movement and reasonable price. Did not know they come with 4 decimal points.
| |
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Apr 6, 2025, at 5:16?PM, Aaron Inami via groups.io <ainami@...> wrote:
?
Hey guys.? I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper.?? I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so.?? There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.).?? Can anyone recommend a decent one??? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers.? The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement.?? I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think.
?
-Aaron Inami
Re: Raising an FB710 off its crate
Hi Doug, Where are you these days?
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On Apr 6, 2025, at 11:09?AM, Doug Speck via groups.io <speckde@...> wrote:
Shinta,
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I had a similar situation in my last shop/garage.? It was a finished garage, but it had an attic access that allowed for adding additional lifting height to the chain hoist.? I used a chain hoist because it allows for almost infinite control of your lift speed.? I constructed a 2x "beam" to spread the load of the band saw onto multiple joists and added another foot to the chain hoist attachment point (see picture).? I lifted the saw using the crate, not the eye bolt that the manual specified as the eye bolt requires a much higher lift height.? Once the saw is erected to a height that the center of gravity shifts to the opposite side of the lift chain, it will stand up on its own weight.? In fact, you will need to support the machine's base to control the rate of descend.? Be very careful at this junction.
?
Thanks for the pictures and description of your solution. ?I had not thought to use the crate to lift from but that does seem like it would improve the geometry. ?It appears that the attach point of the hoist to the crate was to the left of the hoist when you began lifting, and the hoist chain rotated counterclockwise through vertical and then to the right as the saw rotated upright. ?Is that right? What point on the saw was directly below the hoist when you started lifting?
?
Is that a single length of black pipe supporting the chain hoist? ?How long is the section of pipe between those 2x8's? ?I was advised by our builder not to hang the hoist from our joists as I'd have to drill through the web of the joist and support the pipe there and he wasn't sure it was rated for a load applied like that. ?I'm thinking to build a couple posts, each composed of 2 or 3 2x6's, which I can fit up between the joists to get maximum height, and run the pipe between them. ?However, if the saw & crate have to swing between them, they'd have to be far enough apart that black pipe seems potentially inadequate, plus the posts have to be held solidly upright as the direction of the load moves, so the design gets more complicated...
?
Doug
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Re: Need 12" digital caliper
I am in the same boat. Well, maybe I “want” a 12”, or “could sure use” a 12” caliper rather than actually need one. I am looking forward to responses.
--
John Hinman
Boise ID
Kappa 450X and A941
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Hey guys.? I'm in need of a 12" digital caliper.?? I have a Mitutoyo 6" that is excellent, but their 12" calipers are upwards of $470 or so.?? There are many cheaper variants (Fowler, Inzise, Accusize, etc.).?? Can anyone recommend a decent one??? Some of these cheaper calipers have flimsier bodies and thinner calipers.? The flexible bodies can cause a variance in measurement.?? I would love a stainless steel variant, but let me know what you think.
?
-Aaron Inami
|
Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood
Update:
?
So went through everything getting dust out of all the nooks and crannies as the day went on.?
?
Initially it let me then restart the saw from the wagon or frame without recycling the on/off but would still cut out when I tried to cut about 3/4."? I did not try thinner stuff.
?
I then kept messing around and cleaning as the no longer switching the main switch on/off was a change with the policing of dust around the unit.?
?
Finally got it to rip 2 sticks of 8/4 maple which is how I had started the day but then ran out of time for the day as the family calls.?
?
Fingers crossed next weekend I can actually meet my goals from this weekend.
?
Who knows but the sawdust was likely causing an electronic gremlin somehow.??
|
Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood
Does as soon as wood is touched mean you are unable to cut any amount of kerf in even thin soft wood?
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Re: Aftermarket saw blade guard for Hammer Winner
Mike, I bought 1999 C3-31 and soon discovered a host of flaws; that dinky little guard, a rip fence that wouldn’t lock down, and a miter gauge that rattled around. Really lame design effort on those items.
For the guard I adapted the SawStop upgrade fence which is a lot less money and time but nowhere near as nice as what you are looking at. For that you need a new and custom riving knife which I drew up and emailed to SendCutSend and they sent back the knife. About $25 for the knife. I can send the file if you are interested.
?
?
Something I don’t understand, there is very little dust coming off my blade, so I never hooked up the DC to it. Might be because I don’t run a lot of sheet goods production style and never MDF type materials.
?
You might consider also imbedding a couple magnets into the back of the riving knife if your block rattles around loose as soon as you back off the nut like mine did, and I love the knob but that might be a bit wacky for some people. Sure is convenient though.
?
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My other modifications are a Unifence with a DRO and an Osborne miter gauge that’s been further modified with some 80/20.
?
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Re: Raising an FB710 off its crate
Shinta,
?
I had a similar situation in my last shop/garage.? It was a finished garage, but it had an attic access that allowed for adding additional lifting height to the chain hoist.? I used a chain hoist because it allows for almost infinite control of your lift speed.? I constructed a 2x "beam" to spread the load of the band saw onto multiple joists and added another foot to the chain hoist attachment point (see picture).? I lifted the saw using the crate, not the eye bolt that the manual specified as the eye bolt requires a much higher lift height.? Once the saw is erected to a height that the center of gravity shifts to the opposite side of the lift chain, it will stand up on its own weight.? In fact, you will need to support the machine's base to control the rate of descend.? Be very careful at this junction.
?
Thanks for the pictures and description of your solution. ?I had not thought to use the crate to lift from but that does seem like it would improve the geometry. ?It appears that the attach point of the hoist to the crate was to the left of the hoist when you began lifting, and the hoist chain rotated counterclockwise through vertical and then to the right as the saw rotated upright. ?Is that right? What point on the saw was directly below the hoist when you started lifting?
?
Is that a single length of black pipe supporting the chain hoist? ?How long is the section of pipe between those 2x8's? ?I was advised by our builder not to hang the hoist from our joists as I'd have to drill through the web of the joist and support the pipe there and he wasn't sure it was rated for a load applied like that. ?I'm thinking to build a couple posts, each composed of 2 or 3 2x6's, which I can fit up between the joists to get maximum height, and run the pipe between them. ?However, if the saw & crate have to swing between them, they'd have to be far enough apart that black pipe seems potentially inadequate, plus the posts have to be held solidly upright as the direction of the load moves, so the design gets more complicated...
?
Doug
|
Hi Morgan,
is a video that goes part way to explaining the hood for curved work. As i write this, i am thinking i should go into more depth on the hood itself, & so will try to incorporate more detail in the next video on doing curved work on the shaper involving the use of rub collars including jig design.
Regards,
Bryce
--
https://www.brycecomerwoodworks.com/
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCHdrRaAZd_pOa7wwbdNPUEw
|
Re: KF 700 - shutting off as blade touches wood
I actually never have used the shaper on it, don't even have a head to toss on, ugh.
I will try to get them tomorrow unfortunately they run EST I think which makes it hard as I work the same.
Have a good weekend.
Sent from Verizon mobile
Does the shaper spindle react the same way? They have amp draw settings in the electronics, that's beyond me, I would contact Felder on Monday.?
On Sunday, April 6, 2025 at 09:00:57 AM MST, Kyle Stiefel via <kstiefel= [email protected]> wrote:
Took delivery 2021 Single phase Breaker not tripping Able to switch off and back on at machine so does not come back on without cycling power switch?
Sent from Verizon mobile Need more info... what vintage? Single or three phase? VFD? Tripping the braker at your panel? Does it come back on without turning off the power to the machine?
On Sunday, April 6, 2025 at 08:52:49 AM MST, Kyle Stiefel via <kstiefel= [email protected]> wrote:
Morning folks,
?
I have a KF700 and was trying to do some work today.? Now as soon as wood touches the blade the saw is instantly turning off.? This is the first time I have encountered this issue.? The manual doesn't address at all.
?
Any suggestions??
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David P. Best
imran
Bryce Comer