Re: Hardware for hanging wall cabinets
I have used similar that I get from Hafele for years on many cabinet installs. It works well as long as you can catch enought studs or have blocking in the walls. Mollybolts on an end if you absolutely can't get a stud... like at the end of a cabinet run.
Brian Lamb blamb11@... lambtoolworks.com
On Sunday, December 8, 2024 at 05:49:28 PM MST, Rob Pritchard via groups.io <bobbydazzler2248@...> wrote:
Hi All
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Any suggested/recommended hardware for hanging kitchen wall cabinets? Ideally I would like to install a steel rail to the wall, picking up the studs, and then make minor alterations on the fittings that would be attached to the inside of the cabinet sides.
?
Something like this?
?
I have a lot of cabinets to build and install. The base units are already installed (long story), so I'm looking to make this as easy for myself as possible.
?
?
Thanks in advance.
?
Cheers,
Rob P.
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Air Handling systems ?contact Ka Designing and building for 50 years
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On Dec 8, 2024, at 6:10?PM, mac campshure via groups.io <mac512002@...> wrote:
? Just ordered the right part from our handling systems talk to Kay Designing and building for 50 years On Dec 8, 2024, at 6:07?PM, John Whitley <john@...> wrote:
? Hi Andrew,
?
There¡¯s a rivet, but the head isn¡¯t large and is under a lot of caulk/epoxy gunk at the seal at the bottom of the inlet. (Dear Felder, this could be a lot cleaner.) The adapter fit has never quite gotten far enough around the inlet for the rivet head to register as a problem (or not).
?
I like your idea of using a short section of hose to adapt the machine to the ducting. I have a small complication in that the ceiling to inlet drop isn¡¯t 90¡ã to the floor ¨C it angles upwards to hit the line the first section of trunk needs to be on. ?That suggests wanting a little mechanical support on the bottom end, but I can rig up something if need be.
?
I¡¯ll see what my Nordfab vendor has to say, and report back if they have any helpful suggestions, in case anyone else hits this snag.
?
¨C John
?
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Hardware for hanging wall cabinets
Hi All
?
Any suggested/recommended hardware for hanging kitchen wall cabinets? Ideally I would like to install a steel rail to the wall, picking up the studs, and then make minor alterations on the fittings that would be attached to the inside of the cabinet sides.
?
Something like this?
?
I have a lot of cabinets to build and install. The base units are already installed (long story), so I'm looking to make this as easy for myself as possible.
?
?
Thanks in advance.
?
Cheers,
Rob P.
|
Just ordered the right part from our handling systems talk to Kay Designing and building for 50 years
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Dec 8, 2024, at 6:07?PM, John Whitley <john@...> wrote:
? Hi Andrew,
?
There¡¯s a rivet, but the head isn¡¯t large and is under a lot of caulk/epoxy gunk at the seal at the bottom of the inlet. (Dear Felder, this could be a lot cleaner.) The adapter fit has never quite gotten far enough around the inlet for the rivet head to register as a problem (or not).
?
I like your idea of using a short section of hose to adapt the machine to the ducting. I have a small complication in that the ceiling to inlet drop isn¡¯t 90¡ã to the floor ¨C it angles upwards to hit the line the first section of trunk needs to be on. ?That suggests wanting a little mechanical support on the bottom end, but I can rig up something if need be.
?
I¡¯ll see what my Nordfab vendor has to say, and report back if they have any helpful suggestions, in case anyone else hits this snag.
?
¨C John
?
|
Hi Andrew,
?
There¡¯s a rivet, but the head isn¡¯t large and is under a lot of caulk/epoxy gunk at the seal at the bottom of the inlet. (Dear Felder, this could be a lot cleaner.) The adapter fit has never quite gotten far enough around the inlet for the rivet head to register as a problem (or not).
?
I like your idea of using a short section of hose to adapt the machine to the ducting. I have a small complication in that the ceiling to inlet drop isn¡¯t 90¡ã to the floor ¨C it angles upwards to hit the line the first section of trunk needs to be on. ?That suggests wanting a little mechanical support on the bottom end, but I can rig up something if need be.
?
I¡¯ll see what my Nordfab vendor has to say, and report back if they have any helpful suggestions, in case anyone else hits this snag.
?
¨C John
?
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Re: EGL Mounting at 45 degrees
I agree with Brett. ?The EGL should be solid in all positions.
You mention calibrating. ?Using a dial indicator against the fence in the 90 degree position is a good way to calibrate. ?Use a magnetic mount on the saw table near the saw blade then move the slider back and forth while indicating to the EGL fence. ?The indicator should be constant along the length of the fence. ?The EGL will be accurate at all settings after calibrating but you still have to set the 90 degree position for the other 90 degree position. ??
Joe
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On Dec 8, 2024, at 12:51?PM, Brett Wissel via groups.io <Brettwissel@...> wrote:
? John,?
When the egl is adjusted to fit your slider, there should be a strip on low-friction material on each leg of the 90-degrees barely contacting table. I found I had to fiddle with the bracket set bolts numerous times to get it right. When it is clamped tight, it should be solid. I installed my new EGL today.? Have not calibrated it yet with test cuts , I just setup / mounted it to get familiar with it.? One issue i see is when it¡¯s at 90 degrees it is very solid without any play.? When i set it at 45 degrees there is play from side to side. Is this normal since there is less support on the slider?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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Re: EGL Mounting at 45 degrees
John,?
When the egl is adjusted to fit your slider, there should be a strip on low-friction material on each leg of the 90-degrees barely contacting table. I found I had to fiddle with the bracket set bolts numerous times to get it right. When it is clamped tight, it should be solid.
I installed my new EGL today.? Have not calibrated it yet with test cuts , I just setup / mounted it to get familiar with it.? One issue i see is when it¡¯s at 90 degrees it is very solid without any play.? When i set it at 45 degrees there is play from side to side. Is this normal since there is less support on the slider?
-- Brett Wissel Saint Louis Restoration 1831 S Kingshighway Blvd (at Shaw Blvd) St Louis, MO 63110 314.772.2167 brett@...
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EGL Mounting at 45 degrees
I installed my new EGL today. ?Have not calibrated it yet with test cuts , I just setup / mounted it to get familiar with it. ?One issue i see is when it¡¯s at 90 degrees it is very solid without any play. ?When i set it at 45 degrees there is play from side to side. Is this normal since there is less support on the slider?
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Re: Taller resaw fence for Felder FB610
I don¡¯t have the Aigner rails. I have the flat rails from Felder. Are they compatible with Aigner gear?
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Re: Source for custom knives for 40 mm Felder safety cutter
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Yup, his guarding leaves a lot to be desired, but he's getting it done!??
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Re: Source for custom knives for 40 mm Felder safety cutter
Brent,
Thanks.
I just found a video from Manor Wood youtube channel, in which it gives an in-depth introduction of this Hammer-Felder combi cutter head. Indeed, a very nice cutter head.
? (you can fast forward to 2:00 in the video)
James
Hi James, in use they are the same, but the hammer/Felder? specific one is drilled out on the top and supplied with a washer hey manufacture to work seamlessly with Felder top cap securing system.
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Yeah in that video he was clearing a pretty big mortise, 60 minutes of pulling down on that size mortise vs pushing into it is probably equally annoying just in different areas. ?
My wife wants to get a rowing machine. Maybe she can just cut mortises for me instead.?
Nice, Andy, I¡¯ve seen a few of his videos. He has a decent bit of kit. His projects are eclectic.?
That square mortise demo looked like a fair amount of work. An upper body workout. Sort of what I want to avoid, and the reason I bought the Greenlee. I had a floor standing Powermatic mortiser a few years ago and operating it was a little arduous. I would not want to operate that type of machine for 30-60 mins straight. Maybe the Felder isn¡¯t as much work as it looked? Atleast it is both levers that are lower down so it engages more larger muscle groups than the vertical arm lever of most vertical mortisers.?
Patrick In this video the user demonstrates many aspects of this unit. Including square (rectangular) mortises.?
Hijacking this thread slightly, but I¡¯m also curious in the horizontal mortiser discussion. I picked up a larger automatic hollow chisel mortiser a couple weeks ago, and haven¡¯t used it yet, but I¡¯m curious if I made the right choice. One concern I have is the automatic mortisers almost have to use vintage tooling¡ªgreenlee, Forrest city, etc¡ª-that will eventually become hard/impossible to source. Second, it¡¯s my understanding the greenlee 227 and wysong miles 284 eat up tooling less than 1/2¡±. Just too aggressive for smaller tooling. Lastly, I¡¯m in a basement and space is a little tight. The greenlee takes up a big footprint compared to a euro horizontal mortiser.?
Is there a video or instructional set of photos for the Felder unit making square holes? I see the option on the website, but I am not following how that accessory actually works.?
Is the hollow chisel mortiser antiquated and obsolete? Will a decent slot mortiser like a griggio etc. outperform the greenlee 227? Is setup easy and fast on a horizontal mortiser??
Patrick? On Thu, Dec 5, 2024 at 9:54?AM imranindiana via <imranindiana= [email protected]> wrote: Hi Tom,
I can confirm that you can add?chisel mortising and dowel boring because I did that on my 2nd hand FD250. It is 2011, 2.2KW, 3Ph single speed machine so not sure if things have changed over the years.
Surprisingly, I received a set of pictures from the Felder technician (not official Felder documentation) that made the install easy. It had been a few yrs now but don¡¯t recall any issues.
? Hi Andy,?
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Yes, the mechanical DRO I mentioned is the counter for the system hand wheel. Once I got it calibrated it's been very precise.?
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For single phase, yes there is a variable speed option. I try to go three phase whenever possible, and am skeptical about variable speed anything, but yes there is definitely an option.?
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As David Best points out, the MultiRouter is a great machine for furniture work, but you're limited to smaller pieces (the motor is fixed, table moves), and you're limited to 1/2" and smaller shank tooling, whereas the FD-250 (and other horizontal mortisers) will accept up to 20mm diameter shanks.?
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As Joe points out, the Rangate dowel bits are awesome. Carbide-tipped and oversized by 0.1mm, they are a perfect complement to their Rot-Resist dowels. Now that I've calibrated the 16mm dowel boring template to the cast iron table, it's a pretty simple task to use the cast iron block and the dowel bar to bore properly indexed dowel holes, so assembly is a breeze.?
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It's important to note that the "chisel mortising" and "dowel boring" options are ostensibly "Factory-only" options. I've been told that you can order the parts after the fact, but I wouldn't want to spend the time trying to retrofit them. My thought process was that I was better off just ordering a fully tricked-out machine, that way I wouldn't find myself wanting for features at a later time, and this way the machine would have broader appeal if/when I were to eventually sell it.?
--
Tom Gensmer
Heritage Home Renewals, LLC
Minneapolis, MN
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Re: Source for custom knives for 40 mm Felder safety cutter
Hi James, in use they are the same, but the hammer/Felder? specific one is drilled out on the top and supplied with a washer hey manufacture to work seamlessly with Felder top cap securing system.
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Re: Source for custom knives for 40 mm Felder safety cutter
Brent,
What is the difference between the following two 125x55 whitehill cutter heads? Based on the photos, they look the same to me.
James
Just to be clear, I'm referring to the 4mm thick, 55mm knives they call the "B" series knives.
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The "C"? series are also 55mm but are 6mm thick and not suitable for the euroblocks.
?
B
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Patrick, My favorite drilling and mortising is? |
Rob Pritchard
Ron Pomeroy