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Hi Scott also don’t stand behind the blade and use appropriate riving knife thickness. Riving knife should be little less the saw kerf. Mac,,, martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood

Thanks Mac. Of course not... Never thought of that. :( Experience can only be earned.... Bill Belanger [email protected]> wrote:

Bill and all, I experienced kickback on my Saw stop cutting 2" oak. - The wood hit me just right of my navel and bruised my liver....All in All I was lucky. Poor cutting technique by me (always use

Hi Bill Do you have the correct riving knife width for the blade? martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330

I'm sure the more experienced folks on this group have experienced kickback, but for those like me who haven't yet, here's a video of kickback on a 90x90mm piece of wood using a 400mm blade. Good to

Ok…WHY ? Would the manufacturer do that? Makes no sense at all? But that seems consistent with what I observed. A hose that should be durable, breaking down inside my saw. Go figure. Chris Rozycki

Here's a photo of one of my hold-downs, made very quickly from scrap oak and ash, and a couple of bits that were in the "too useful to throw away" bin. The table T-nut has an 8mm T-nut (like the one

I read somewhere on the web (so it must be true!!) that the internal hose is made of a biodegradable material that disintegrates over time so take that for what it is worth.

When the factory hose on my K3 disintegrated, I replaced it with standard 4 inch flex hose. After about an hour of struggle and swearing, I finally got it done but it was a big PITA. It proved

FWIW, here are the details of the KF700 rectangle to round transition. First it is a 2 pc design with a point and a groove. The pieces came apart as I removed it. I guess the adhesive finally gave

The only disadvantage I have found with it is the stud is in the t-slot and if you already have clamps on the machine you have to slide them out to put in the bridge clamps. I might make version 2

Few picks of my bridge clamp , slot and tennon 6” 3x3 ash first one others thin lumber martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330

Brian, I think the best part of your design is that it registerers the hold down so you get the most purchase on the wood without hitting blade… Repeatedly Bill Belanger

I used wood blocks like Lucky's picture for years, just got tired of fumbling with placement and finding material the same thickness to use as the jack side. A little bit of work with scraps laying

It will be interesting to see what you find out. My experience is that nothing coming off of a FDM printer is going to be as strong as aluminum. The layer adhesion of the plastic is not strong enough

For the upside down question I was referring to when you 3D print it. Would you print it on its side, with the later lines running vertical when the bride is in use or would you print it on its back

Give me couple of days to get back to my shop, I will photograph what I have made. But the short answer is that I sized the width to match the pressure foot diameter on my AirTight clamp. Any short

Infer, I like the looks of the printable adapter. However, I am concerned about conflict with the lower blade pulley. The picture of the guts of a C3 machine shows the pulley above the bottom of the

I had the same thought few weeks ago. i spoke with PP about getting the 7.5HP (simple). They told me it wouldn’t be suitable for the 5.5kW Felder since it has motor break. (Or any other sensitive

Hi David - Two quick questions.? How wide would you make the clamping bridge and what orientation would you bring it in - upside down with the legs sticking up on on its side? Jeff