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Few picks of my bridge clamp , slot and tennon 6” 3x3 ash first one others thin lumber martin/campshure/co/llc mac campshure 7412 elmwood ave. middleton, wi 53562-3106 608-332-2330

Brian, I think the best part of your design is that it registerers the hold down so you get the most purchase on the wood without hitting blade… Repeatedly Bill Belanger

I used wood blocks like Lucky's picture for years, just got tired of fumbling with placement and finding material the same thickness to use as the jack side. A little bit of work with scraps laying

It will be interesting to see what you find out. My experience is that nothing coming off of a FDM printer is going to be as strong as aluminum. The layer adhesion of the plastic is not strong enough

For the upside down question I was referring to when you 3D print it. Would you print it on its side, with the later lines running vertical when the bride is in use or would you print it on its back

Give me couple of days to get back to my shop, I will photograph what I have made. But the short answer is that I sized the width to match the pressure foot diameter on my AirTight clamp. Any short

Infer, I like the looks of the printable adapter. However, I am concerned about conflict with the lower blade pulley. The picture of the guts of a C3 machine shows the pulley above the bottom of the

I had the same thought few weeks ago. i spoke with PP about getting the 7.5HP (simple). They told me it wouldn’t be suitable for the 5.5kW Felder since it has motor break. (Or any other sensitive

Hi David - Two quick questions.? How wide would you make the clamping bridge and what orientation would you bring it in - upside down with the legs sticking up on on its side? Jeff

Hi John, I can only offer some general comments. I assume you have no plans to add a 3P dust collector or a 3P jointer with 10HP motor. If that is the case, I would inquire about the longevity of the

Yep. Phase perfect. I called them directly. It’s probably worth your time to give them a ring to make sure you aren’t shorting your hp needs. wrote:

That is interesting, Andy. Was it the Phase Perfect rep, or the tool rep recommending an upgrade? The saw I am contemplating has a “soft start” feature, which perhaps will reduce the start-up

Hi Andrew, Sorry to hear about the accident, hope your girlfriend is recovering well. There is a lot going on here and I think you should start fresh. 1. Here is my Dual51 transformer. It

I think you’ll need to add some hp to your phase converter, when I was looking into it my rep indicated that I’d need to over spec the HP. Perhaps he was upselling me but I was going to add

I may acquire a 3-phase saw with 7.5 HP (5.5 KW) motor. I’ll need a converter to produce the necessary power. Any reason not to choose the Phase Perfect Simple 7.5 HP converter, in favor of one of

As for the hose, I have shared this before. This is a flexible (expands and contracts easily) hose and does not put as much strain on the plastic transitional piece (that it attaches to) on my

Rod - That is essentially what I have done. But it seems like such a half-baked solution for such a sophisticated and expensive machine. Why do I feel this way, and why does almost everyone who owns

Hello Imran, sorry for the delayed response, my girlfriend had a car accident and I had to focus on that for the last little while. I’ll try a different approach with the schematic, I’ve scanned

Actually, I’ve been doing some test prints with carbon fiber reinforced PETG and Nylon recently, and I’ve been really impressed how well it compares to aluminum in some applications. This stuff

Great content; thanks for sharing! Jacques