JP,? Not sure if the same design would fit, would have to confirm when you get it.
Anthony, I started it in Siemens NX but the version I am using is customized for mold making and I don’t use it every day so it became to time consuming. I now use Shaper3d with iPad and pencil, totally awesome and fast the drawback is that you can’t get the 2d dims drawings without a bit of extra work, you have to either create a plane and project the edges or export to a 3rd party program. They are adding the feature though in the next few weeks. For this design I don’t need to create 2d drawings as I will just export an X_T file for the cnc.?
Jason, mostly for kickback of small cutoffs and strips plugging up the hose. i too have never liked them for the same reason you mention but came to find out that on the k940 that you don’t need to remove it to tilt the blade at least with a 300mm blade, now not sure how great it will be with the 90 slot and 45deg slot at the same time not to mention different angles, we will see i can imagine changing it out more often with a new one because of that. Juat this morning I had an idea for a quick change insert, i mean 4 short bolts don’t take that long but what is you needed no tools?
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 10:02 AM, Randy Child via groups.io <strongman_one@...> wrote:
?
One of the issues with not having the ZCI is sometimes I have to slice off the ends of solid boards and that small off cut can wedge between the blade and the deflect it into the sliding table.? With a ZCI, that problem is eliminated since the off cut will just sit on the insert and not go anywhere. I'm really hoping someone can 3D print something for the K975 and make it available for purchase.. I'm willing to buy several if they ever got made
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 06:45:01 AM PST, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Use extension roller? with Erica for ripping? ?the Facia on my shack is clear V fir 1.5 x 11" all corners required compound miters. with erica just lay 18' plank on table clamp , support the end with roller and pull saw through for perfect cut.?
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 09:14:14 AM CST, mark thomas <murkyd@...> wrote:
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 06:47 AM, Jason Holtz wrote:
Ripping a 12' 2x6 on a jobsite saw that weighs less than the board you're cutting is a challenge as well. You couldn't do it solo anyway.
?
It's a piece of cake.? You push it half way through to the balance point, then walk around to the other side, and pull it the rest of the way.? With heavy boards, you need to screw the saw down to something with a little heft, or clamp it to your tailgate, etc.
|
Hi Paul, Never liked the S coupling to hard to set extension tables and maintain accuracy. I would change to F A few things i did way back when that were helpful? Motorized planer table, used a 120 volt Bodine gear motor.it was easy to use manual or with motor no gear stress , instant reverse salvaged Hospital bed motor think i bought 3 at a junk store for $7.00 each. Had limit switches at top and bottom of stroke . and a AB joy stick that eliminated the hassle, joy stick would? stay up or down? and? able to micro adjust. I also put gas cylinders on the tables and they would lift themselves.?
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 09:10:54 AM CST, Paul Curme <paul.curme@...> wrote:
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Great feedback guys....you are bringing up some great questions and ideas. ?Jason and Mac, thanks for the recommendations!?Cliff - Height- Really good consideration that I hadn't thought of. ?hmmmm.?
Hamish Casimir- "One of the few negatives are the slots for the mitre gauge." Great intel. ?
"Also the thicker Euro shaft will prevent you from using standard US,? 5/8" shaft sized saw blades, dado stacks etc." ?
? ? ? ? ? ?Also good info. ?I don't have any standard blades having moved on from my earlier cabinet saw when I bought the felder. ?I imagine any saw I get I will need to purchase a few blades as well. ?But super helpful regardless!?
Imran-?
?
"I am not sure if your dad will work on anything large in size" - We have a ?track saw and an adjustable height table, that I picture using as an indeed or outfield support when needed. ?But I picture breaking down big stuff with the track saw before bringing it to the job site saw. ?
"Theft is not uncommon on job sites" ?This is also a great point! ?Had some stuff disappear the last time I built a house. ?That was in the city where it is the cost of doing business, but that is certainly something that is worth considering.... bummer
Bill James - I am certainly better with a table saw than a circular saw! ?Regrettably I never worked on a construction crew as a kid and feel like I never earned my stripes with a circular saw. ?
Michael- Saw stop- "But after using a slider and hold downs, when I do use it I am getting a lot closer to a blade than I am comfortable with" ?
? ? This is a great point. ?It has been a few years since I've used a traditional table saw..... that blade is going to feel very close!?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Fair point.? Almost easier to chew a panel to size.? Dave
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I don’t doubt blade alignment relative to the fence has something do with it, but when wrestling full pieces of sheeting and/or long 2x6 on a small saw, I’m not sure that there’s any way to prevent the back of the blade contacting the material due to the material
being fed inconsistently and wobbling on and off the fence. Two people helps, but doesn’t eliminate the wobble, at least in my experience.
?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the small table and my
tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen? And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after getting the blade guard
with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 06:47 AM, Jason Holtz wrote:
Ripping a 12' 2x6 on a jobsite saw that weighs less than the board you're cutting is a challenge as well. You couldn't do it solo anyway.
?
It's a piece of cake.? You push it half way through to the balance point, then walk around to the other side, and pull it the rest of the way.? With heavy boards, you need to screw the saw down to something with a little heft, or clamp it to your tailgate, etc.
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I don’t doubt blade alignment relative to the fence has something do with it, but when wrestling full pieces of sheeting and/or long 2x6 on a small saw, I’m not sure that there’s any way to prevent the back of the blade contacting the material
due to the material being fed inconsistently and wobbling on and off the fence. Two people helps, but doesn’t eliminate the wobble, at least in my experience.
?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the
small table and my tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> on behalf of TJ Cornish <tj@...>
Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2021 9:54 AM
To: [email protected] <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: [FOG] Job site saw recommendation?
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen?
And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after
getting the blade guard with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
Dave thanks for the suggestion.
I haven't had time to model the machine chassis yet but below is the type of infill I was thinking of.
I have extended it down past the Table hinge to allow for a second vertical support to the chassis.
I am working with the S coupling on my machine I did wonder whether it was possible to use the?
stock hammer extension and just re machine the coupling as you can carve an S Coupling out of an F Coupling.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Paul,
? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
--
Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Paul,? I think Felder originally had a bent piece hey of U channel ?than later came out with a cast block with f couplings. They bolted table edge ?they made s to s ?and s to f think
 F  Designing and building for 50 years
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:37 AM, David Davies <myfinishingtouch@...> wrote:
? Paul, ? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Blade alignment has a lot to do with saws spitting dust forward to the operator.? It generally means the back of the blade is upcutting which should not happen.? My Bosch did not spit forward.
I also found with my Bosch- 20 years old as well-? that clamping a 4' level to the fence helped me when ripping.? Additional fence, particularly in front of the blade helped to compensate for the small table and my tendency to cant long stock.? Dave
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen? And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after getting the blade guard
with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
One of the issues with not having the ZCI is sometimes I have to slice off the ends of solid boards and that small off cut can wedge between the blade and the deflect it into the sliding table.? With a ZCI, that problem is eliminated since the off cut will just sit on the insert and not go anywhere. I'm really hoping someone can 3D print something for the K975 and make it available for purchase.. I'm willing to buy several if they ever got made
On Thursday, January 21, 2021, 06:45:01 AM PST, Jason Holtz <jholtzy@...> wrote:
Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I built two houses with a Bosch 4100 from about 2003. At the time it was the best of the normal brands – the fence was awesome. This was pre-riving knife, so not as up-to-date with safety features. I am sure the new one is better.
?
A couple notes later on – I gave the saw to my dad who has used it sparingly. In his time, he has had the far motor bearing seize twice, requiring replacement. The good news is parts are still available. The bad news is why did this happen?
And more than once?
?
One general comment – any table saw without good dust collection throws a huge amount of crap in your face. When I upgraded to my first cabinet saw (Sawstop ICS), I was blown away at the usability difference, because – especially after
getting the blade guard with dust connector – I could use the saw without gagging and gasping. That was far and away the best part of upgrading for me. I could have done more with dust collection on the cabinet saw, and in hindsight I wish I did.
?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
On Thu, Jan 21, 2021 at 08:47 AM, Jason Holtz wrote:
You couldn't do it solo anyway
Yes and no, if well supported infeed and outfeed at the same level at the saw (mostly saw on the ground), this is feasible. Bill
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Ripping a 12' 2x6 on a jobsite saw that weighs less than the board you're cutting is a challenge as well. You couldn't do it solo anyway. Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Mark, Just curious about your need for a zci. Is it solely to keep offcuts from getting sucked down the throat? I know with sufficient dust?collection this is an issue on our KF. I bought one of John Renzatti's inserts years ago, but it's never actually been on the saw. We tilt the blade often enough that it would be a huge hassle.
What's this LED light?business?all about? Jason Holtz
J. Holtz Furniture
3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
612 432-2765 -- Jason J. Holtz Furniture 3307 Snelling Ave. South Minneapolis, MN 55406
|
Paul, ? Aigner makes a couple of mounting adapters
Dave Davies
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
-- Dave & Marie Davies
318-219-7868
|
As I have the machine in pieces at the moment I have been going through the list of annoyances and inconveniences that I recall when I was last using the machine in anger.
Top of that list was the inability to fit an extension to the front of the thicknesser table which is not fixable on the 10" thicknesser.
Second is the 6 inch gap between the saw table and the planner table that prevents the rip fence traversing smoothly across the full range of the dovetail.
I'm not talking about trying to replace the entire metal plate just a section at the saw end.
Obviously some clearance between the extension and the planner table but no more than 5-6mm.
Has anyone installed an infill or extension piece between the saw table and the planner table on a BF6 Combination machine, either S Coupling or F Coupling and how did you go about mounting it,
bolted to the edge of the saw table or mounted on studs to the machine chassis?
Any thought or engineering opinion on which is the best approach?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Thanks Michael, putting down another vote for the Bosch! ?
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
Hi Bill,
I said most not all.
I still hear from my wife that grandpa built two houses with circular saw as his only power tool so why do I need this workshop, LOL
Imran?
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On Jan 21, 2021, at 8:25 AM, Bill James via groups.io <xxrb2010@...> wrote: ?On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 10:39 PM, imranindiana wrote:
Miter saw or circular saw
If you made your own roof and want a backer for your fascia board at the ends of the rafters, you usually ripped the edge of this backer to match the slope of the roof. A job site table saw will help. A circular saw can do the job, but on 12 ft long 2x6 this is not an easy job. Bill
|
Re: Job site saw recommendation?
I haven’t tried it personally but if I was in the same boat I would have a hard look at the sawstop jobsite saw and try to give it a run side by side with the others. I have the DEWALT and no complaints on that. It was inexpensive, good eneough power, and the
fence is quite stable. ?I also bought it years ago before the sawstop was available. But after using a slider and hold downs, when I do use it I am getting a lot closer to a blade than I am comfortable with. Seems to have excellent reviews as well.?
Michael Tagge
Built Custom Carpentry?
Get
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On Wed, Jan 20, 2021 at 10:39 PM, imranindiana wrote:
Miter saw or circular saw
If you made your own roof and want a backer for your fascia board at the ends of the rafters, you usually ripped the edge of this backer to match the slope of the roof. A job site table saw will help. A circular saw can do the job, but on 12 ft long 2x6 this
is not an easy job.
Bill
|
Jason Holtz
imran