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I’ve had Hot Knives make those. They can use the better and thicker steel also. Those heads will accept 1mm thicker than standard for the knife. I bet Neil at MT tool could as well.

Thanks Andy, that is in UK correct. Should have added, looking for a source in USA. Imran Malik https://www.facebook.com/groups/362481112015700/?ref=share

Whitehill tools [email protected]> wrote:

I have not checked with Felder as it is not going to be quick. Took them 6 weeks to get me limiters for a standard knife. These are also referred to as 64F series or 690 series and look like this I am

Hi Cornelius, It is a shame that you can’t mount PF to your Jointer. As to your concern about bow staying there due to PF, David Best and Lucky have addressed this here may be others too. In case I

Netanel, if you’re setting a toe-out on a sliding table in a stand alone shaper to avoid binding your reference should be your shaper fence as this is where the binding could happen. To make it

In general, on a shaper, you want the trajectory of the sliding table to be parallel with the fence plates on the shaper hood. This way you can use any point along shaper fence as a bump-stop

Thanks david, I watched your video again, but the toe-out of the slider is adjusted based on the table saw blade, but on a standalone shaper you don't have a blade, so what would you reference? Does

I believe that gap you see is an illusion because of the poor lighting/shadows. The corner edges of the tenoning plate are chamfered, and it is also relieved at both ends on the underside by about

It seems that there are now a lot more YouTube videos on Fritz Franz and jigs - clamps for sliders. ?I also saw one that uses Brian's parallel fences. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=avio-vxWghE If

David, Thank you for your additional comments and helpful hints. Yes, my sliding table stays coplanar for the section of travel I use when tenoning. It is a short slider. I would think twice to start

Exactly. Just like the tenoning plate. Position the sled so it isn’t machined during the profiling operation. Or, if you want to keep the sled stationary and use the PF, you can always cut out the

Same as always: https://youtu.be/9s2a02XI3BQ David Best DBestWorkshop@... https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidpbest/collections/ https://www.youtube.com/@David_Best

David - Thank you for your input. The suggestion of building a sled that covers the slider as well as part of the cast iron table (with layers of the foil tape on the bottom side) seems like the

Hi Cornelius, If you handle long stock often I recommend looking into PF for jointer. Longest I have jointed is bit over 4m. I have done the width that required 3x of my Dual 51 (510 mm). I have to be

David, How did you make sure the slider is coplanar to the cast-iron? What is your reference point?

Here are my suggestions. Your sliding table should be adjusted to be the same distance above the cast iron top at both ends, and be coplanar to the cast iron top. It should also maintain its coplanar

Thanks for your feedback! Brett - your suggestion with the copy paper makes sense since we're only talking about a fraction of a mm, but how and where do you place/secure the paper when you feed a

I have a follow up question. Did how did you make sure the fence is coplanar with the sliding table? I tried to change the toe out of the slider, but when I am setting the back edge of the slider, the

I will recommend extra pressure modules from Aigner if you have rails mounted on your table, or also buy the rails and enjoy the versatility. There's a couple module attachments that look well suited