some years ago, I was concerned?? with the geometry of the cut
with toe out.? So I worked it out using? CAD.? The deviation from
flat into the slightly? concave geometry with? quite a few
thousandths of toe out ? using a 12" blade is almost nill;? it is
a decimal point? followed? by a few zeroes to the right of the
decimal before any numbers? come in.? Like 0.0002? Like that.?? So
there really? is nothing but benefit to building a little toe out
on the rip fence.?
On 7/26/20 12:48 PM, joelgelman via
groups.io wrote:
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For the calibration of the rip fence for toe out (or to not have
any toe out), I was made aware of a method I had not previously
considered. ?That method was to use a gauge along the fence with a
dial indicator where measurements are compared at the front of the
blade and at the back of the blade (with the blade rotated so the
measurement is at the same part of the blade).
I always thought the best way was to first make sure the blade was
parallel to the slider and the crosscut fence was perfectly square
to the slider-blade. ?Then, bring the fence towards the slider and
use something clamped to the fence or slider or a square indexed
to the miter slot to compare the distance to the fence front to
back as the slider is moved. ?The toe out is the difference front
to back. ?Alternatively, I see that some cross cut a good sized
piece of wood (eg MDF) on the slider, then push it along the
crosscut fence until it is touching the rip fence to see how it
touches along the length of the rip fence.
Any thoughts? ?If the gauge is a better way, then I will buy or
borrow one, such as a Oneway multi-gauge, and change how I
calibrate.
