On Jul 26, 2020, at 11:26 AM, Cliff Rohrabacher, Esq. <rohrabacher@...> wrote:

some years ago, I was concerned?? with the geometry of the cut with toe out.? So I worked it out using? CAD.? The deviation from flat into the slightly? concave geometry with? quite a few thousandths of toe out ? using a 12" blade is almost nill;? it is a decimal point? followed? by a few zeroes to the right of the decimal before any numbers? come in.? Like 0.0002? Like that.?? So there really? is nothing but benefit to building a little toe out on the rip fence.?

On 7/26/20 12:48 PM, joelgelman via wrote:

For the calibration of the rip fence for toe out (or to not have any toe out), I was made aware of a method I had not previously considered. ?That method was to use a gauge along the fence with a dial indicator where measurements are compared at the front of the blade and at the back of the blade (with the blade rotated so the measurement is at the same part of the blade).

I always thought the best way was to first make sure the blade was parallel to the slider and the crosscut fence was perfectly square to the slider-blade. ?Then, bring the fence towards the slider and use something clamped to the fence or slider or a square indexed to the miter slot to compare the distance to the fence front to back as the slider is moved. ?The toe out is the difference front to back. ?Alternatively, I see that some cross cut a good sized piece of wood (eg MDF) on the slider, then push it along the crosscut fence until it is touching the rip fence to see how it touches along the length of the rip fence.

Any thoughts? ?If the gauge is a better way, then I will buy or borrow one, such as a Oneway multi-gauge, and change how I calibrate.