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Last year my Eurovan was broken into and I have not been able to find an Owners Manual, paper, copy or electronic. I would appreciate any leads on where to acquire one. Thanks. (Thief pulled up the louvered window (above the stove) and reached through to pop up the drivers door lock. I have now installed a metal mesh screen over the first foot)
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Steel rear bumper needed
Looking for a Eurovan rear bumper impact bar for an '03 near Valley Forge, PA. Thanks, Bryan
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Wanted: 1999 AC High Pressure Hose
2
Anyone happen to have a high pressure AC hose for a 1999 eurovan? The hose that goes from the compressor to the firewall? My hose has developed a crack and I'm looking for a replacement. Thought y'all might have a spare parts bin or a few parts vehicles to pull from. Part number 7D0-820-721-S
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Wanted: 1993 Eurovan distributor
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I am in need of an OEM 1993 Eurovan distributor. I bought an aftermarket, and it worked for a short time... then failed. Anybody have one, even used? Or know a good reputable source?
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Won't shift into 3rd, 2nd or 1st
4
Working on my sisters 1997 EVC. Driving it from Austin to San Antonio was shifting fine. As I got off at my exit it tried to down shift automatically to first, very strange. Then ran really poorly for a few blocks, didn't want to shift and had little power. Got home, turned it off, waited a while, started right up, shifts into reverse and drive, but when I try to go into 3rd or lower, the button on the shifter is frozen and it won't shift. Have brake lights, and since it comes out of Park and into Reverse or Drive I don't suspect the brake switch. Is there another switch that could have gone bad that prevents it going into the lower gears? Or is the problem probably in the shifting mechanism (which was working just fine, I had down-shifted to climb a couple of hills on the way home). Any advice as to what may be causing this would be appreciated. Scott 1997 EVC San Antonio
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leaving group
When we age, we have to face reality We are giving our Camper to our grandson Great to be part of such a nice group! Good bye W Li
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2002 VW Eurovan MV Weekender for sale - $18000
Hi, We have decided to sell our Eurovan. I am sure we will miss it terribly. We are the second owners and bought it from the original owner thru this email list. It is a great rig. Nothing is wrong. It has a lot of miles but will certainly go a lot more. I would not hesitate to drive it across the country. It is all clean waiting for its next owner to pick it up. Our zip is 98204. Rather than type everything out in a big email, here is a link to the advertisement on theSamba.com . It is also listed on Facebook Marketplace. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2707315 Thank you to everyone on this email list. I have learned a lot thru the years and have enjoyed sharing my experiences. Mike Clough
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The diaphragm inside my 2000 EVC's PCV/breather is warped and leaking oil and the part is NLA. Anybody have one they are willing to sell or have advice on how to get around this issue. -John
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Ecoflow integration into EVC?
Has anyone replaced their house battery with something like and Ecoflow? https://ca.ecoflow.com/products/delta-3-series-portable-power-station?variant=45159091077274 That one is 15.7 x 8.3 x 11 in / 400 x 211 x 281 mm - I haven't measured yet, but may fit in the battery box (or just replace the batter box?). There are various sizes/capacities. Charges while driving, or AC, or by solar. If anyone has tried this, I would be interested in hearing about your experience. Regards, gny -- George Y 95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area
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To recap: Some of us experience the following symptoms: - when it's very hot out (like 95F or higher) - driving at a medium speed (20-40 mph) - up a steep hill - arriving at a high altitude (5000' - 7000' ) Positive symptoms: - strong raw gas smell (around the gas tank area, not from the engine compartment or tailpipe) - gas tank literally sounds/feels like it's boiling - pressure in gas tank (relieved if you open the gas cap) Negative symptoms: - typically no CEL or codes via VCDS - van otherwise drives just fine - once the van cools down, starting and driving at altitude is normal Background: - reports are more common with the 1997-2000 Eurovans vs. the 2001-2003 Eurovans (which have a redesigned Evap system) - this problem seems new - several of us who drive the same routes each year began to notice it 5-10 years ago. - some people report that it gets better with parts replacement (typically N80) - however, many of us have R&R many parts (Evap canister, N80 valve, gas cap, Oxygen sensors...) with no improvement. Design flaw? The Eurovan's gas tank is right behind the engine, and with the right combination of factors (speed, temperature, altitude) you can get in a situation where tons of hot air are coming off the engine and radiator, blowing right by the gas tank, causing the gasoline to boil. Even if the N80 and evap system are working properly, gas fumes are created faster than the engine can burn them, eventually overloading the evap system leading to pressure release of gasoline fumes. An argument consistent with this is that the 2001 and later models have a beefier evap system, seem to be less likely to have this problem, suggesting that VW may have indeed fixed this flaw. The main argument against this theory is that many of us feel like this is a new problem that didn't happen when the van was younger, suggesting that something changed. Malfunction? If something has changed, it's most logical to think something has worn out or broken in our vans. E.g., if the evap system were working better, the problem would go away. The main argument against this theory is that several of us have R&R multiple parts and never found a cure. Could it be the Gasoline? Perhaps something else has changed? If the fundamental problem is gasoline boiling in the gas tank, perhaps gasoline formulations have changed to increase the vapor pressure? In fact, around 2003 California phased out MBTE and started using about 5% Ethanol, and around 2010 rules changed to allow up to 10% ethanol in California fuel blends. Link It so happens that E10 gasoline is allowed to have a Reid Vapor Pressure (RVP) up to 1 psi higher: Link
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sliding door jamb reinforcement hook plate
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I've never paid attention to it but on my 02 mv Should the hook on the sliding door reinforcement plate- 701809284C - be able to move around? I can wiggle it some and the door makes a snapping noise there when opened and doesn't seem to catch when closing. May be just worn out. Any suggestions?Thanks. Spencer 02 mvwk
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1995 EVC Shurflo Faucet Upgrade
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I upgraded the original faucet to the shurflo electric faucet (included with 97 and later). I had it wired up with one of the blue wires connected in to the middle pole wire on the back of the monitor panel and the other to a constant 12V purple wire behind the panel. This installation worked great for about 4 months, the faucet would activate the water pump, and both front and rear switches continued to work in the van. On a recent trip, the monitor panel was showing low battery and our fridge had shut off due to low voltage. I am not sure exactly how I came around to getting it fixed, but within a couple minutes the fridge powered back on and my battery was showing full. After the monitor panel showed full battery again and everything seemed to be working, the powered element of my faucet stopped. Water will still run just fine, but I need to turn on the pump with the switch on the monitor panel. I re-wired everything with new 14awg wire and was hoping that was the fix, but now I cannot seem to get the electric side of the faucet working again. I have tested the faucet wiring for continuity, and it does show a current when connected to a multimeter. GoWesty support has been helpful and they recommend replacing the water pump and the monitor panel, but I am hoping to get some insight some anyone here that may have come across a similar issue.
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selling my 1997 Eurovan camper at 115k miles
Hello folks, We have been in this group for so long and have found information helpful to our Eurovan questions. After 10+ years with her, as we have spent less and less with her, it's time to let her go for a new adventure. We are in Denver, CO and we frequently go to Fort Collins. So if you are interested, please let us know. Our Eurovan camper has very good mechanical condition and performance. Never had any issue with the v6 engine and the automatic transmission, and always runs great. Replaced the van battery a month ago. And new front breaks for just a few thousands of miles. The 2nd/mid row bench seat is included. You can lock it to the floor and carry more family and friends when needed, or put down the back of the bench seat and use it with the back bench as a sofa chaise (shown in a picture). Or remove it and enjoy the spacious van with the back bench seat and the swivel front seats with 2 tables attached - don't forget to raise the top to make it even roomy. And the back bench also turns to a comfortable bed for sleep. ~115k miles on the original odometer. We are the third owner. Very clean history. No accidents, no mechanical issues. We always maintain the van at the VW dealer in town using full synthetic oil and VW coolant. Installed a 1,000+ W inverter for AC power from the house battery of the van. We used it to power a microwave shown in one of the pictures. It also has a hitch receiver for racks and bikes. Inside, a custom made mattress is included in addition to the original folding mattress. The pop-top has a crack going from side to side on the exterior, but that's a common situation to Eurovan campers. We have been using a professional seal tape to cover and seal the crack and only needed to replace the tape once in the past 10 years. We still have plenty unused tape left if you are interested. The sliding door has a crack on the paint for many years and it never bothers us and never got worse. There are some small cosmetic worn signs that are reasonable. Here's a link to Craigslist that has photos: https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/denver-1997-vw-eurovan-camper-115k/7786686666.html We can send you more pictures if you need. Let us know if you are interested. Thanks!
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99 VR6 AES fuel injectors
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Good morning all, I have a 99 with VR6 12 valve AES engine. I had a fuel injector crap out on me over the summer. I have pretty much quit using the van since then, but I need to get the van back on the road here soon. So I am faced with the dilemma of just replace one injector or replace all 6? I have replaced some in the past with used injectors. This one that failed was replaced once already with a used one, about 7 -10 years ago. You get into needing new o rings etc and all of that adds up if just replacing one injector. Plus, when is the next high mileage injector going to fail? I am a little bit sick over the price of a set of new injectors from FCP Euro. A set of six, stock Magneti Marelli injectors is upwards of $700. But to replace one on the van that has had several used ones used to replace bad ones in the past, and I am at 240K miles, I feel like maybe the best option is to replace all six with new injectors. Does anyone know of a new set available for private sale? Maybe in your stash and you have moved up to a 24 valve engine? I know it is a long shot. Let me know on any advice you have relating to this subject. I have changed them before and I will do it again this time. It is not a super huge job but a big enough job that I am not sure that I want to do it again after this. Thanks, Mark
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Vss failing
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Finally getting around to replacing the VSS. I found it but I can’t figure out how remove the electrical connector. How do you manipulate those 2 wire bails? Please let me know the technique Stephen
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help can't remove fuse box off "ears" 02
working on replacing driver side wiring harness but am snagged on removing fuse box off the holding brkt. I have unclipped the two holding clips and can lift the right side of box out of the cradle but left side will not lift up at all. Seems like something above on that side is preventing it from being able to lift up. any suggestions? Thanks all. Spencer 02 mvwk
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SUCCESSFUL $7 FIX FOR RUNAWAY DOOR LOCKS!
A previous post linked to YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaOL6XeX8JU) with the clever idea of installing a simple spring to solve the issue of locks going up and down uncontrollably—an issue normally requiring expensive hours of door panel removal and troubleshooting—but did not suggest a source for the spring. After a couple of trials I found a spring on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M4YFSN $7.19 for set of 10) that works great! The inside diameter was slightly too small, but I could easily unwind the light gauge spring with enough force to widen it so it slides up and down on the knob easily and does not go down into the knob hole on the door rim. Furthermore, it was not clear from the video if this would fully restore the remote lock and unlock capability, so I was delighted to find out it does! (Not sure why it works, but I'll take it.) One additional tip: To gain access to the van without setting off the runaway locks, simply disconnect the battery, use your manual key to unlock the driver's door (the only lock that permits this on my 2002 MV), then go inside to remove the passenger side knob, install the spring, replace the knob, reconnect the battery, and ... voila, full lock functionality restored in minutes for seven bucks and change!
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What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
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Hello, I'm troubleshooting a 1995 Rialta with ACU engine for a friend who just bought it. There were monkeys in the engine bay: loose wires, disconnected vacuum hoses, SAI check valve cut out, radiator blower fans bypassed with a switch - a real mess. In comparison to my old AAB, this engine has some extra complications, like the SAI system. My question is this: should I try to reconnect and repair the SAI, or should I rather do away with it. Has anyone successfully removed that system? Will the engine run correctly without it? Thanks for any suggestions, Radek
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should I add wire to door harness repair
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I'm about to repair a driver's door harness with broken wires. May end up doing all 22 wires. Some you can see the cracked and exposed wire others-esp the smaller ones- nothing shows. Would adding about 6" of wire help with the door pinch? Are the smaller (22gauge) wires less prone to being broken? Some posters have just cut the wire & soldered at break without adding extra wire.Anyone who has done this repair have any tips on this. Thanks all. Spencer 2002 mvwk
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Weird problem with all automatic door latches
14
Opening any locked door causes the latch to open and then close automatically within 5 seconds. If I grab the handle and open the door before the latch automatically closes I can enter the car. However, all of the latches in all of the doors continue to go up and down over and over again very rapidly, as if the vehicle is haunted by a ghost, until I close the door I opened, whereupon all of the latches lock in the down position. Any ideas about what is causing this happen?
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