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1995 EVC Shurflo Faucet Upgrade

 

I upgraded the original faucet to the shurflo electric faucet (included with 97 and later). I had it wired up with one of the blue wires connected in to the middle pole wire on the back of the monitor panel and the other to a constant 12V purple wire behind the panel.?
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This installation worked great for about 4 months, the faucet would activate the water pump, and both front and rear switches continued to work in the van. On a recent trip, the monitor panel was showing low battery and our fridge had shut off due to low voltage. I am not sure exactly how I came around to getting it fixed, but within a couple minutes the fridge powered back on and my battery was showing full. After the monitor panel showed full battery again and everything seemed to be working, the powered element of my faucet stopped. Water will still run just fine, but I need to turn on the pump with the switch on the monitor panel.?
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I re-wired everything with new 14awg wire and was hoping that was the fix, but now I cannot seem to get the electric side of the faucet working again. I have tested the faucet wiring for continuity, and it does show a current when connected to a multimeter. GoWesty support has been helpful and they recommend replacing the water pump and the monitor panel, but I am hoping to get some insight some anyone here that may have come across a similar issue.?
 

Have you checked that the switch in the faucet is good? You can do this by disconnecting the wires to the faucet, and connecting an ohm meter to the wires. You should see open circuit when the faucet is off, and a short (nearly 0.0 ohms) when it's on. You'll probably see something like 0.2 ohms or so, depending on your meter and the resistance of the test leads.
 

I second Joshua's suggestion. That was the issue with mine, corroded/poor connection at switch.?
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Pete
2000 EVC, ~210k miles
 

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When I swapped out my faucet for the Shurflo upgrade, I added a relay switch to the system to avoid running continuous current driving the pump through the faucet itself. If your faucet is indeed fried, this could be something to do to avoid this issue in the future.?

Good luck,
Quinn

On Sep 27, 2024, at 5:00?PM, Pete via groups.io <pdebarber@...> wrote:

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I second Joshua's suggestion. That was the issue with mine, corroded/poor connection at switch.?
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Pete
2000 EVC, ~210k miles
 

I did test the faucet as you described. I’m no expert, but I was getting 0.0 when off, and then when faucet was turned to the on position, I received a readout, I believe around 2 ohms sounds right, but I was really only looking for some kind of change, and it definitely is completing a circuit. Based on what had happened though, I was convinced it was a wiring issue with the faucet until I tested it today.?
 

I would be interested in this as an option. I am not sure if the faucet is fried as I am still drawing a short when the faucet is clicked on, but at this point I will likely be re-wiring the setup anyway, so I may need to learn how to install a relay as it seems this could be a safer solution. On yours, were you able to keep the switch on the monitor panel working as a backup, or did you de-comisson that??
 

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I decommissioned the switch on the panel, but I did keep the switch on the back near the sprayer operational. I think that when I added the relay, I wired battery +12v to two prongs, battery ground to the third, and used the faucet switch connected to ground on the fourth. When the faucet was switched, it connected battery to ground while the pump current flowed through the other connection.?

Thank you,
Quinn

On Sep 27, 2024, at 8:21?PM, goeddyvans@... wrote:

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I would be interested in this as an option. I am not sure if the faucet is fried as I am still drawing a short when the faucet is clicked on, but at this point I will likely be re-wiring the setup anyway, so I may need to learn how to install a relay as it seems this could be a safer solution. On yours, were you able to keep the switch on the monitor panel working as a backup, or did you de-comisson that??

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