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Ecoflow integration into EVC?
Has anyone replaced their house battery with something like and Ecoflow? https://ca.ecoflow.com/products/delta-3-series-portable-power-station?variant=45159091077274 That one is 15.7 x 8.3 x 11 in / 400 x 211 x 281 mm - I haven't measured yet, but may fit in the battery box (or just replace the batter box?). There are various sizes/capacities. Charges while driving, or AC, or by solar. If anyone has tried this, I would be interested in hearing about your experience. Regards, gny -- George Y 95 EVC Winnabago - Ottawa ON area
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To recap: Some of us experience the following symptoms: - when it's very hot out (like 95F or higher) - driving at a medium speed (20-40 mph) - up a steep hill - arriving at a high altitude (5000' - 7000' ) Positive symptoms: - strong raw gas smell (around the gas tank area, not from the engine compartment or tailpipe) - gas tank literally sounds/feels like it's boiling - pressure in gas tank (relieved if you open the gas cap) Negative symptoms: - typically no CEL or codes via VCDS - van otherwise drives just fine - once the van cools down, starting and driving at altitude is normal Background: - reports are more common with the 1997-2000 Eurovans vs. the 2001-2003 Eurovans (which have a redesigned Evap system) - this problem seems new - several of us who drive the same routes each year began to notice it 5-10 years ago. - some people report that it gets better with parts replacement (typically N80) - however, many of us have R&R many parts (Evap canister, N80 valve, gas cap, Oxygen sensors...) with no improvement. Design flaw? The Eurovan's gas tank is right behind the engine, and with the right combination of factors (speed, temperature, altitude) you can get in a situation where tons of hot air are coming off the engine and radiator, blowing right by the gas tank, causing the gasoline to boil. Even if the N80 and evap system are working properly, gas fumes are created faster than the engine can burn them, eventually overloading the evap system leading to pressure release of gasoline fumes. An argument consistent with this is that the 2001 and later models have a beefier evap system, seem to be less likely to have this problem, suggesting that VW may have indeed fixed this flaw. The main argument against this theory is that many of us feel like this is a new problem that didn't happen when the van was younger, suggesting that something changed. Malfunction? If something has changed, it's most logical to think something has worn out or broken in our vans. E.g., if the evap system were working better, the problem would go away. The main argument against this theory is that several of us have R&R multiple parts and never found a cure. Could it be the Gasoline? Perhaps something else has changed? If the fundamental problem is gasoline boiling in the gas tank, perhaps gasoline formulations have changed to increase the vapor pressure? In fact, around 2003 California phased out MBTE and started using about 5% Ethanol, and around 2010 rules changed to allow up to 10% ethanol in California fuel blends. Link It so happens that E10 gasoline is allowed to have a Reid Vapor Pressure (RVP) up to 1 psi higher: Link
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sliding door jamb reinforcement hook plate
2
I've never paid attention to it but on my 02 mv Should the hook on the sliding door reinforcement plate- 701809284C - be able to move around? I can wiggle it some and the door makes a snapping noise there when opened and doesn't seem to catch when closing. May be just worn out. Any suggestions?Thanks. Spencer 02 mvwk
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1995 EVC Shurflo Faucet Upgrade
7
I upgraded the original faucet to the shurflo electric faucet (included with 97 and later). I had it wired up with one of the blue wires connected in to the middle pole wire on the back of the monitor panel and the other to a constant 12V purple wire behind the panel. This installation worked great for about 4 months, the faucet would activate the water pump, and both front and rear switches continued to work in the van. On a recent trip, the monitor panel was showing low battery and our fridge had shut off due to low voltage. I am not sure exactly how I came around to getting it fixed, but within a couple minutes the fridge powered back on and my battery was showing full. After the monitor panel showed full battery again and everything seemed to be working, the powered element of my faucet stopped. Water will still run just fine, but I need to turn on the pump with the switch on the monitor panel. I re-wired everything with new 14awg wire and was hoping that was the fix, but now I cannot seem to get the electric side of the faucet working again. I have tested the faucet wiring for continuity, and it does show a current when connected to a multimeter. GoWesty support has been helpful and they recommend replacing the water pump and the monitor panel, but I am hoping to get some insight some anyone here that may have come across a similar issue.
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selling my 1997 Eurovan camper at 115k miles
Hello folks, We have been in this group for so long and have found information helpful to our Eurovan questions. After 10+ years with her, as we have spent less and less with her, it's time to let her go for a new adventure. We are in Denver, CO and we frequently go to Fort Collins. So if you are interested, please let us know. Our Eurovan camper has very good mechanical condition and performance. Never had any issue with the v6 engine and the automatic transmission, and always runs great. Replaced the van battery a month ago. And new front breaks for just a few thousands of miles. The 2nd/mid row bench seat is included. You can lock it to the floor and carry more family and friends when needed, or put down the back of the bench seat and use it with the back bench as a sofa chaise (shown in a picture). Or remove it and enjoy the spacious van with the back bench seat and the swivel front seats with 2 tables attached - don't forget to raise the top to make it even roomy. And the back bench also turns to a comfortable bed for sleep. ~115k miles on the original odometer. We are the third owner. Very clean history. No accidents, no mechanical issues. We always maintain the van at the VW dealer in town using full synthetic oil and VW coolant. Installed a 1,000+ W inverter for AC power from the house battery of the van. We used it to power a microwave shown in one of the pictures. It also has a hitch receiver for racks and bikes. Inside, a custom made mattress is included in addition to the original folding mattress. The pop-top has a crack going from side to side on the exterior, but that's a common situation to Eurovan campers. We have been using a professional seal tape to cover and seal the crack and only needed to replace the tape once in the past 10 years. We still have plenty unused tape left if you are interested. The sliding door has a crack on the paint for many years and it never bothers us and never got worse. There are some small cosmetic worn signs that are reasonable. Here's a link to Craigslist that has photos: https://denver.craigslist.org/cto/d/denver-1997-vw-eurovan-camper-115k/7786686666.html We can send you more pictures if you need. Let us know if you are interested. Thanks!
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99 VR6 AES fuel injectors
5
Good morning all, I have a 99 with VR6 12 valve AES engine. I had a fuel injector crap out on me over the summer. I have pretty much quit using the van since then, but I need to get the van back on the road here soon. So I am faced with the dilemma of just replace one injector or replace all 6? I have replaced some in the past with used injectors. This one that failed was replaced once already with a used one, about 7 -10 years ago. You get into needing new o rings etc and all of that adds up if just replacing one injector. Plus, when is the next high mileage injector going to fail? I am a little bit sick over the price of a set of new injectors from FCP Euro. A set of six, stock Magneti Marelli injectors is upwards of $700. But to replace one on the van that has had several used ones used to replace bad ones in the past, and I am at 240K miles, I feel like maybe the best option is to replace all six with new injectors. Does anyone know of a new set available for private sale? Maybe in your stash and you have moved up to a 24 valve engine? I know it is a long shot. Let me know on any advice you have relating to this subject. I have changed them before and I will do it again this time. It is not a super huge job but a big enough job that I am not sure that I want to do it again after this. Thanks, Mark
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Vss failing
5
Finally getting around to replacing the VSS. I found it but I can¡¯t figure out how remove the electrical connector. How do you manipulate those 2 wire bails? Please let me know the technique Stephen
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help can't remove fuse box off "ears" 02
working on replacing driver side wiring harness but am snagged on removing fuse box off the holding brkt. I have unclipped the two holding clips and can lift the right side of box out of the cradle but left side will not lift up at all. Seems like something above on that side is preventing it from being able to lift up. any suggestions? Thanks all. Spencer 02 mvwk
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SUCCESSFUL $7 FIX FOR RUNAWAY DOOR LOCKS!
A previous post linked to YouTube (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaOL6XeX8JU) with the clever idea of installing a simple spring to solve the issue of locks going up and down uncontrollably¡ªan issue normally requiring expensive hours of door panel removal and troubleshooting¡ªbut did not suggest a source for the spring. After a couple of trials I found a spring on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076M4YFSN $7.19 for set of 10) that works great! The inside diameter was slightly too small, but I could easily unwind the light gauge spring with enough force to widen it so it slides up and down on the knob easily and does not go down into the knob hole on the door rim. Furthermore, it was not clear from the video if this would fully restore the remote lock and unlock capability, so I was delighted to find out it does! (Not sure why it works, but I'll take it.) One additional tip: To gain access to the van without setting off the runaway locks, simply disconnect the battery, use your manual key to unlock the driver's door (the only lock that permits this on my 2002 MV), then go inside to remove the passenger side knob, install the spring, replace the knob, reconnect the battery, and ... voila, full lock functionality restored in minutes for seven bucks and change!
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What to do with the Secondary Air Injection system (ACU engine)
7
Hello, I'm troubleshooting a 1995 Rialta with ACU engine for a friend who just bought it. There were monkeys in the engine bay: loose wires, disconnected vacuum hoses, SAI check valve cut out, radiator blower fans bypassed with a switch - a real mess. In comparison to my old AAB, this engine has some extra complications, like the SAI system. My question is this: should I try to reconnect and repair the SAI, or should I rather do away with it. Has anyone successfully removed that system? Will the engine run correctly without it? Thanks for any suggestions, Radek
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should I add wire to door harness repair
7
I'm about to repair a driver's door harness with broken wires. May end up doing all 22 wires. Some you can see the cracked and exposed wire others-esp the smaller ones- nothing shows. Would adding about 6" of wire help with the door pinch? Are the smaller (22gauge) wires less prone to being broken? Some posters have just cut the wire & soldered at break without adding extra wire.Anyone who has done this repair have any tips on this. Thanks all. Spencer 2002 mvwk
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Weird problem with all automatic door latches
14
Opening any locked door causes the latch to open and then close automatically within 5 seconds. If I grab the handle and open the door before the latch automatically closes I can enter the car. However, all of the latches in all of the doors continue to go up and down over and over again very rapidly, as if the vehicle is haunted by a ghost, until I close the door I opened, whereupon all of the latches lock in the down position. Any ideas about what is causing this happen?
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The enclosed picture is the hose I am looking for . Can anyone help me.Number is by screwdriver. It is a five cylinder 1995 engine. Thanks Domokos
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ECU for 1993 Eurovan (manual trans)
3
I was able to buy an ECU from a 1993 Eurovan (manual trans) recently. I didn't know the EV was manual, and as I understand / compared, the ECU is different from my auto trans 1993 EV ECU. Anybody with a manual in San Diego area that needs one? I want to get my money and time back. Also, I have VCDS, and I'm wondering if I were to hook it up to mine... just to get a scan to validate it responds properly... I was thinking I should disconnect my TCM first though. Or does anybody have any thoughts on how to validate the ECU?
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Can anybody confirm that this is the Intake Air Pre-Heater Hose? It is behind the engine and close the the exhaust manufold. I was inspecting, and I noticed that it appears to have a hole/rip in it. I'm not sure if this would have a real impact on performance, but guessing any holes in hoses are bad. But what would be the impact of this? I live in San Diego... so not sure that the pre-heating matters... but dirty air would be bad. I can't really tell about how to connect a new one. Looks like it just slides on the engine side. The air filter side is hidden, and I can't tell how it would attach. Any tips?
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Eurovan 1995
7
Working on the air conditioner on my 1995 Eurovan. I discovered that I wasn¡¯t getting adequate flow from my air conditioner. The air was very low.. taking off the panels below the dashboard I discovered that the blender door for heat is mechanically controlled, but the blender door for the air conditioner is vacuum controlled. I am trying to determine two things ¡¡Where does the vacuum line come through the firewall from the engine to the dashboard? I can¡¯t find it. And secondly, how does one test if the vacuum system is sealed and working? Any help would be appreciated thank you Domokos
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Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
4
I replaced my 1993 distributor. I took care to mark the bolt locations. I put the wires back to the same spots. When I start, it hesitates and then it stalls. Starting my research now. Figure I'd post while I'm searching.
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I had a small, very short fire in my van, due to a gas leak, and a spark from a bad wire. With the help of people on this site, I¡¯ve been able to make the repairs. however, I still have one problem. It appears one of the vacuum lines melted and I can¡¯t find where it¡¯s supposed to go. If anyone has this version of eurovan, r. R five cylinder, please take a look at the pictures. Perhaps you can tell me where the vacuum line is supposed to go thanks again in advance..Domokos
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2002 transmision with the. GoWesty cooler 224f deg
2
I am stuck in Reno for the night I have 177000 miles and the scan gage usuals at 179 went to 224 and would no come down There is a small leak somewhere but can¡¯t tell if this cause of overheating I will check the auto trans fluid tomorrow and run a scan check using my laptop and the VCDS light program Any ? suggestions Bernard
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Wire for alternator
3
Trying to get the wire unplugged from the alternator but I can barely reach my hand up there. What¡¯s the secret to getting that off in the cramped space? If anyone has a picture of it so I can even see what type of connector it is I would appreciate it. Thanks, Bryan
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