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Thanks, Jim. I’ve got an email into Suburban to see if I can slip a new, updated core into the furnace cabinet. Seems promising. ?Stay tuned—I’ll let y’all know how this works out.

I installed a Propex HS2211 in my 2000 Weekender. Here’s a lil write up I did on it:

Hi folks

We have a '97 Eurovan Camper with the original furnace. ?I believe it's a Suburban unit, although I don't know which model, etc. ?I've learned that these can be upgraded with a new, more efficient and quieter core. Alternatively, I'm looking at a unit called the ProPex HS 2000, which gets good reviews.

Has anyone had experience with upgrading their EVC furnace and would like to share any advice?

Not sure if the heater core could have damaged the "Sport Mode" rocker switch...
but, since I did the radiator and the heater core bypass, I have only recently been able to test drive.

I noticed that the shifting was weird... like it didn't know where it wanted to be.? I checked my wires and my TCM.? All good there.

For a while (even before the heater core blew), I noticed that the Sport Mode switch would sometimes blink.

So I removed it the Sport Mode rocker switch.? Shifting normal again.? Maybe the switch or the wires going to it are problematic.

Wonder if transmission issue troubleshooting includes removing that switch... Definitely an easy test.

Does anyone know where to get a new drain plug for the automatic transmission in a 2002 Eurovan? ?My shop says I need a new one, and wants me to get it before the next ATF change (they said they 'fixed' my old one, which was banged up, but good enough until it has to come off again.)

Thanks for any pointers!
Ricki
2002 Weekender

Part No: 7D1-809-159 Description outer panel, driver's (gas tank) side. Apparently, VW stopped making this panel. I am looking for one in good condition. No significant dents. Most paint issues are acceptable.

Part No: 7D1-809-159 Description outer panel, driver's (gas tank) side. Apparently, VW stopped making this panel. I am looking for one in good condition. No significant dents. Most paint issues are acceptable.

Thanks for recommendations.

as luck would have it we found Trinidad Motors in Ocean Beach. A mile from our home.

Angel is a fifteen year authorized VW mechanic who has open his own shop. We took our 1995 EuroVan in for thorough tune up and rebuilding the heater exchange. He did great work.

Trinidad Motors is now our realiable place to go when any work is needed on the vehicle.

I recently had my 1995 Eurovan serviced at Trinidad Motors in San Diego. Angel has worked for fifteen years at dealerships and has opened his own garage. I have nothing but good things to say about his work. If you are in the San Diego area I don't think you'll find a better place for service and repairs. You can see reviews on Yelp and find his website online. (I have no personal or financial relationship with the shop. I know how difficult it is to have these vehicles serviced by someone who has knowledge and experience.)

My 2000 EVC has over 100k miles.

In the past few years I've noticed some symptoms, and I wonder if they could be connected:

* very gassy / rich smelling exhaust at startup - not "evacuate the neighborhood" bad but "air out the garage for a while" bad. Definitely coming from the exhaust pipe only.
* after the van warms up, this stops, and subsequent warm starts don't have this problem
* sometimes, a "tick tick tick" noise upon cold start, especially if the van hasn't been driven in weeks. This usually goes away in minutes as the van warms up, and often doesn't come back for days.
* when it's very hot and/or at high altitude, gas fumes - these are not coming from the exhaust, but possibly from the EVAP system hoses around the gas tank or maybe from engine compartment?
* sometimes the tank "gurgles" after filling, and this happens even after I rehabilitated and later replaced my EVAP canister

On the positive side:
* R&R evap canister
* new gas cap
* new N80 valve
* all new plugs, wires, and coil packs (which fixed some misfires, but did not change these other symptoms)
* no codes
* MPG is expected
* passes smog

Basically, if you only encountered this van after it had warmed up, and never took it to the high desert, you would think it was running perfectly.

I have a few ideas - some of these are my own, and some distilled from prior posts on the list:

1. this is all normal, the van always runs in "open circuit" mode at startup, which runs rich, and I'm not remembering how gassy older vehicles are (I do live in California and my other car is an EV).
And, the other gassy smell when hot & high is due to extreme driving conditions (110F, high altitude) and just a flaw with Eurovans.

2. the "tick tick" noise sounds like a hydraulic valve lifter that lost pressure, which could cause incomplete combustion leading to the gassy exhaust.
Once the lifter pumps up, the problem goes away. (This does not explain the hot + high gassy smell, however)

3. it's one of the oxygen sensors? An oxygen sensor malfunction might not trigger a CEL?
But a malfunction could lead to rich running problems, explaining the super rich running at cold start.
Also, (so I've read) oxygen sensors are tied into the N80 (the valve which pulls gas fumes from the tank / charcoal canister and burns them).
If one or both of the Oxygen sensors is bad, this could explain both problems (ultra rich @ startup, and N80 not venting enough).

4. bad fuel injector - it gets stuck open when cold, dumping fuel into the cylinder, but when very hot, leaks into the engine compartment?
(This seems unlikely to me...)

I like #3 because it explains both problems, but am not sold on any theory at the moment, and some of my assumptions are likely wrong.

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Lemme know if you come across anything!

Might have one for you. Need to check

Hey everyone…I’m new here,. ?I have a 1999 Eurovan that I’ve had for many years that I’m planning on doing some upgrades and eventual sale. The van was originally from Canada and has a speedo with KM/Hr only and I’m looking to replace the speedometer head or the gauge cluster with a MPH unit.

?2 questions…1) any thoughts where I might a replacement unit?…2) has anyone done this and if so any advice?

It's quite simple to do the radiator.? It tilts so that helps and also just move the condenser to the side and the aftermarket tranny cooler if equipped.? ? I swapped mine in the parking lot across from the VW parts store in Kingman AZ after a fan exploded and shrapnelled out the radiator and the other fan.? ?I already had the fans off, which is half the job.? Worst part was the belly pan.?

That front radiator would be the AC condenser, shouldn't have to mess with that.
Once you get the hoses disconnected from the radiator you should be able to pull the radiator(s) way back away from the engine and have plenty of room to work.
I have not removed the radiator on the EV myself but would imagine it to be a pretty straightforward job.

I have replaced a couple radiators in my Subarus - there are a lot of plastic parts on the radiator that eventually break down after all the heat exposure and develop unrepairable cracks.

I would agree/investigate (keep in mind, mine is a 1993, so some differences)

- ignition switch, being weird (but doubtful)
- blue wire -??
- inspect transmission cable -??
- swap a known good TCM - my TCM experiences ()

I seriously believe that some decent Eurovans have gone to pasture due to people unable to properly diagnose issues.? Case in point -??

Yeah, the project morphed.? The heater core bypass is still in place.? But shortly thereafter the radiator gave out.

Leak at passenger side.

The replacement was ok, just the AC condenser in front cause it to be a bit more tedious.

On Jan 29, 2023, at 11:24 AM, july1744ac via groups.io <July1744@...> wrote:

"Old battery was struggling to turn engine over but new one is not better"

That sounds like a red flag - are you sure the new battery is OK? If it is fully charged, then maybe the problem is elsewhere - the ignition switch is a common failure item in Eurovans and when it goes bad, you can get all sorts of weird problems.