I have only heard of a few clutches needing replacement. They really
are very durable. While the job is not as simple as other VW's, say
a beetle (I can do that in 2 hrs!) it is typical of many front wheel
drive cars today.

I would expect that to have a dealer do the job would cost the most,
maybe approaching $1,000, but would also (perhaps?) do the best work.

Non-dealer mechanics might do the job cheaper but keep in mind the
parts alone can cost $300 min.

Where are you located?

Regarding Michael McCarthy's comments on the tools:

No additional work (removing motor mounts, etc) is needed to use VW's tool to reduce tension on the tensioner arm to remove the belt. The clearance is more than ample. The long length and thinness of the handle make it easy to keep tension off while doing other work with your other hand. I agree that another tool could also do this job. As far as I remember, the shop manual called for unbolting the mount and jacking up the engine only for clearance for removing the tensioner pulley assembly itself.

Regarding alternatives for supports made for removing axles- it is true that home made blocks can be used to wedge in to maintain clearance. I did this the first time and it took me a lot of extra time, and due to the jury rigging, did require additional attention to safety. For the other axle when the time came, I bit the bullet and got the supports. It saved me at least an hour of labor, and a lot more in aggravation. I also moonlight restoring an old Mercedes 190SL at $40/hour, so an hour of time saved on fixing the Eurovan, is an hour to be spent on restoration. To me, $50 for the tool is well worth it since I'm so busy (also reduces resentment over the need to do repairs), and the tool is useful for multiple jobs (boot replacement, suspension work, cv joint replacement, bearing replacement). Alternatives can always be found for those with patience and time on their hands.

It all depends on where you draw the line. I also had to replace a front wheel bearing. Zelenda offers a tool for ~$250 to replace the bearing on the EV while the brake assembly is still on the vehicle. That was too much for the twice I'll probably do this job over the life of the vehicle, so I went ahead and pulled the assembly off to replace the bearing. The $50 support tool came in handy for this since you've got to remove the axle.

Regards,
-gb

I also have the Sidewinder Awning and Side Tent. It held up beautifully
in a severe wind storm on a cliff above the CA coast recently. I thought
it would be in pieces by the time the sun rose but there was no damage
at all. I did have it installed by the dealer and although they charged
a bit they did a great job. My only complaint is that it is hard to get
it rolled up just right to fit in the case. For more info check out
www.carefreeofcolorado.com They have a trouble shooting guide, parts
list etc.

From: sukitoby@...
Subject: Re: inverter suggestions for EVC

My question: Has anyone installed an INVERTER so that you have 110
VAC while traveling and parked. There is plenty room in the battery
area.

I've used a small 200 watt inverter that plugs into the cigarette
lighter outlet. It powers a laptop computer while charging the
laptop's battery, and I also use it to charge AA batteries via a small
charger. I normally try and run the inverter only while the engine is
running, to save draw on the coach battery.

Suggested watts (300, 500, 1000 ??) Suggested Manufacturers?

Wattage ratings depend on what you want to power with the inverter.

Can it be wired to work with the existing 110 V wiring and outlets
already in the EVC.

That would be a significant job. The existing 110 V wiring is
permanently hooked to the magnatek converter. You'd have the inverter
trying to power the converter, which would try to power the inverter,
which would power the converter, etc. Sounds like a great perpetual
motion machine at first, but the laws of thermodynamics prevent that
setup from doing anything except generating lots of waste heat while
it drains the battery, at best.

You'd need a mechanism to prevent having both the inverter and the
converter connected simultaneously. You'd also need an absolutely
failsafe mechanism to prevent connecting the inverter's output and the
shorepower input simultaneously. If two unsynchronized 110VAC sources
ever compete to power the same outlet, something's going to explode.

I think it would be less trouble just to install new AC outlets, or
else rewire one (or both) of the outlets to be connected to the
inverter ONLY, and not connected to shore power.

If you DO install a high wattage inverter, put it as close to the
battery as possible. It's much more efficient to make your long cable
run with 110V instead of 12V, and keep the 12V cable as short as
possible.

Please help - by the way Sharp has just release a miniature
Microwave called The Half Pint which would be way cool for your EVC
and it has a low wattage demand.

Low wattage means it doesn't heat terribly fast, since the microwave
wattage is directly related to the amount of heat it puts into the
food in a given time. To heat a given amount of food/water to a given
temp, you end up using close to the same amount of energy out of the
battery, whether it's a high wattage draw for a short time, or a low
wattage draw for a long time.

Personally, I'm not a big fan of microwaves for use in RV's, unless
you're camped at a campground with electric hookups. I know some
folks like 'em, though. It just doesn't seem like a very efficient
way to heat food, burning petroleum to push a piston to turn a
crankshaft to spin an alternator to generate DC to charge a battery to
power an inverter to generate AC to power a microwave tube to heat
water. Far less trouble to place the object to be heated directly on
top of the burning petroleum, via a propane stove. Batteries are
terribly inefficient energy storage devices when you compare them
against propane tanks. And with the limited storage space in the
EuroVan, allocating space to a microwave plus an inverter big enough
to power it, and perhaps an additional battery to power the inverter,
just isn't a worthwhile tradeoff for me.

--Rich (the curmudgeon)

Thanks. I looked over the instructions again. Looks like the poles
are
meant to support the awning (they call them rafters) and that
special
brackets need to be installed. The additional flaps appear to be some
kind of skirting (they call them privacy panels).


--- In ev_update@..., "plthe" <plthe@e...> wrote:

I'd try the original vendor. I believe they're in Colorado and have

a Web

site.

--Lee / Phyllis Thé
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA


----- Original Message -----
From: Keith Light <light@i...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2000 7:31 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Sidewinder Awning and Tent

I recently purchased a Sidewinder Awning and Tent from my local
Volkswagon Dealership, but the tent came without any instructions.
Does anyone know what the spring-loaded tent poles and the two

small

pieces are for?, Also, after setting up the 2 side flaps and the
front flap, I found two additional small flaps, Does anyone know

what

these
are for?

Thanks,

Keith Light

----------------------------------------------------------------------
--

Old school buds here:

----------------------------------------------------------------------
--

If you can buy the awning and brackets for $309 I think you'd be
geeting a good deal. I paid $449 at a Volkswagon Dealership in
Sacramento, CA. Then there was the $250.00 to install both the awning
and the snaps for both the side and rear door screens and the
"add-a-room" side tent. I did not know that it came in color other
than white (the only color that 2000 EVC Camper comes in).

When I had the awning installed, the body shop manager was adament
that the brackets for the awning needed to be welded on. He stated
that a previous customer had had his awning separated from the
vehicle
while extended in gusty conditions. A few weeks later, I noticed that
the bolts he had used had rusted and were bleeding on the painted
brackets. I took it back and had the bolts replaced and the bracket
repainted.

One drawback of the awning is that once the clasp is released the
pole
extension will slide all of the way out of its housing and fall on
the
ground. It's a hassel to get it back in.

Good Luck!

Keith



--- In ev_update@..., gavski@a... wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "Erndog " <erndog1@h...> wrote:

Keith -

Can't say that I can help you out, but I am just getting ready to

buy

the same awning. I was going to get it directly from Carefree of
Colorado, the company that makes it for the WV dealers.

How much did you pay, for the awning, and what did it cost for
installation? What color does the "Eurovan" brand awning come in?

Carefree sells the 8' awning for $259 and the brackets for $50.

The

model is the LB Sidewinder II and it comes in a variety of

colors.

Thanks,

Erndog
'99 EVC

I'm interested in an awning/tent but my VW dealers don't know an
EVC from a TDI. Is there a website for either the VW or Carefree
awning?
- Jeff

I'd try the original vendor. I believe they're in Colorado and have a Web
site.

--Lee / Phyllis Th
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA

Are you sure it isn't the naturally hinky taste of the plastic water tank?
We'd had our EV close to 2 years and still feel the need to bring bottled
water for drinking.

--Lee / Phyllis Th
97 EVC
Palo Alto, CA

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My guess is its the pulley keeping the tension on the timing belt.
There is s recent thread on this within the last hundred messages or
so. Since your fan went out a while back. the engine may have run
hot enough to push the bearing (actually its probably the lubricant)
that finaly gave out) in this pulley. The previous owner found the
belt was rubbing against the pulley because it no longer turned.

If this is what you are experiencing, I would STOP DRIVING THE VAN
UNTIL YOU CHECKED THIS OUT - ASAP!. If your timing belt goes while
your engine is running, you may be in for more than a belt
replacement!!!

Jerry

--- In ev_update@..., Team Degenerate Motorsports
<highrpm@h...> wrote:

My 93 weekender with 88K has been running really great since fixing

the

fan fuses but now theres a new scary noise :-(

It sounds like it's dyin here.

Problem began yesterday after a pretty much normal day of use - A

noise

has appeared from the engine - squeeky almost abrasive sounding

noise

that appears to not come from any one spot but rather across the

entire

motor?

Noise is present at idle in or out of drive ( auto) and does not go

away

when RPM goes up while parked - although it may go away when you
actually get driving down the road.

Noise is there when van is warmed up and is present now on a cold

start

after sitting overnite - actually it was *very* apparent and nasty
sounding while the motor turned over *before* the van fired up -
sounding like Scraping or an abrasive noise then more of a squeek

once

fired up

I have hardly any records on this van - and do not think the timing

belt

was changed by PO - this was something I was going to do before a

big

4th of July trip but am wondering if it is the cause here???

What do you guys/gals think it is? and should I even try and drive

by

the dealer to have him listen???

TIA,

Bill

Bill,

Looked like fun!

Jerry--- In ev_update@..., Team Degenerate Motorsports
<highrpm@h...> wrote:

Well it was not as cushy as the new 29' RV's we rented for the last

5

years but Memorial day weekend trackside at Lime Rock Park was a

blast

just the same. The Casa Royal EV tent I picked up this Winter from a
listee worked GREAT -

I put up a few pics:



Bill
93 Weekender

Jeff,

I considered them last year - I live in N Va. Their size and power
requirements kept them on my list for a number of months. For this
part of the country, humidity in the summer months present a
challange for this type of cooler. At best, the model that used ice
was the only potential option. In the end, the prices knocked them
out of the running. Here's the site for the prices (they sent it to
me last year).



I felt for this kind on money, I could buy a small AC unit, take it
apart, and repackage it to fit somewhere in or under the van. Yes, I
would require 110V when I camped, but its a small price to pay to
have cooling. besides, how else can I justify getting that small
portable generator ;)

If I ever get teh time to work on this, I'll let you know what
success I had.

Jerry

--- In ev_update@..., "Jeffrey L. Krattenmaker"
<jlkrattenmaker@e...> wrote:

Has anyone had any positive or negative experience with such units

as

the Swampy or similar 12v units ?? Summertime is here and we're
still looking for ways to keep cool on hot / humid nites and to

keep

the hound cool for short periods of time while shopping.



Jeff
97 EVC
Dayton, OH

>> ?Counter holder 3248a (secures vibration damper to remove crank bolt)

My guess is that this tool IS essential; that is, the damper can't be removed without it.


>> Ribbed belt install tool 3299 (works REALLY well)

Ok, it works well, but the use of this tool REQUIRES that the engine be supported, the engine mount removed, and then the engine shifted slightly? ?My guess is that you can do the job FASTER without the special tool. ?My guess is that the special tool only saves time in a shop where hydraulic lifts make it possible to remove a motor mount and shift an engine quickly. ?In the backyard garage you are going to spend a LOT of time preparing the engine so you can save a FEW minutes using the tool. ?In the end, in this case, the special tool actually costs you more time. ?


>> Another essential tool for removing the front axles (for changing CV boots,
>> etc, NOT used for timing belt) is Support frames 3250

Essential? ?As in "can't do the job without it"? ?Not true. ?That tool is strictly a timesaver. ?How much time can you save? ?I don't know. ?I can support my front end, one side at a time, to service CV-joints, in a matter of a few minutes. ?How expensive is the tool? ?If it's more than $50 it wouldn't be worth it to me.



As far as the selling point aspect of having a nice shop with lots of cool tools, I agree with you there. ?In fact, I'd rather buy a car from someone who's done all their own work than one who advertises "only dealer repair!" and then has a thick file of dealer receipts to show me when I'm inspecting the car.

Mike

----------
From: "Jerry Carter"
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Timing Belt Tools Ordering info
Date: Tue, May 30, 2000, 8:27 PM

--- In ev_update@..., Gbnvic@a... wrote:
> The VW tools are ordered directly from Zelenda. Dealers normally
don't supply
> them. Ask if they have any used available, as they serve as a
clearinghouse
> for the tools when mechanics don't need them. The tools aren't
cheap, but all
> three listed below will cost you less than paying the labor for the
timing
> belt job.
>
> Zelenda Phone# 800 221 0126
> Counter holder 3248a (secures vibration damper to remove crank bolt)
> Ribbed belt install tool 3299 (works REALLY well)
>
> Another essential tool for removing the front axles (for changing
CV boots,
> etc, NOT used for timing belt) is
> Support frames 3250
>
> Comments on the job: replace the water pump at the same time.
However, in
> order to replace the pump, you must remove the rear timing belt
plate. To get
> the plate off, you need to remove the cam shaft sprocket. I was
unable to get
> the bolt off this sprocket (even while using the special Snap-on
tool made
> for the purpose), so I ended up bending the plate-didn't go back
right and I
> had to wire the top of it back to prevent rubbing noises. That was
the only
> bad part of the job. I imagine without the other tools parts of the
job could
> be bad-especially getting the bolt off the crank.
>
> -gb

While Mike has a valid point about having more time, I like to do
other things with my time! ?

If the tool isn't too expensive, I'll usually spring for them; they
make the job easier, take less time, and are a selling point when its
time to part with the van (if you do all of you own work, the next
buyer is going to believe it when he/she sees the receipts and tools
they get with the buy).

Thanks for letting us know about the tool.

Jerry ?

---

Hiking Biking Climbing Nature Tours Dude Ranches Rafting/Paddling Multisport ??

---

--- In ev_update@..., Gbnvic@a... wrote:

The VW tools are ordered directly from Zelenda. Dealers normally

don't supply

them. Ask if they have any used available, as they serve as a

clearinghouse

for the tools when mechanics don't need them. The tools aren't

cheap, but all

three listed below will cost you less than paying the labor for the

timing

belt job.

Zelenda Phone# 800 221 0126
Counter holder 3248a (secures vibration damper to remove crank bolt)
Ribbed belt install tool 3299 (works REALLY well)

Another essential tool for removing the front axles (for changing

CV boots,

etc, NOT used for timing belt) is
Support frames 3250

Comments on the job: replace the water pump at the same time.

However, in

order to replace the pump, you must remove the rear timing belt

plate. To get

the plate off, you need to remove the cam shaft sprocket. I was

unable to get

the bolt off this sprocket (even while using the special Snap-on

tool made

for the purpose), so I ended up bending the plate-didn't go back

right and I

had to wire the top of it back to prevent rubbing noises. That was

the only

bad part of the job. I imagine without the other tools parts of the

job could

be bad-especially getting the bolt off the crank.

-gb

While Mike has a valid point about having more time, I like to do
other things with my time!

If the tool isn't too expensive, I'll usually spring for them; they
make the job easier, take less time, and are a selling point when its
time to part with the van (if you do all of you own work, the next
buyer is going to believe it when he/she sees the receipts and tools
they get with the buy).

Thanks for letting us know about the tool.

Jerry

--- In ev_update@..., sukitoby@a... wrote:

It intrigues me that Winnebago went to all the all the trouble to
install the large and expenseive Magnatek Converter to supply 12
VDC while you are on shore power

My question: Has anyone installed an INVERTER so that you have 110
VAC while traveling and parked. There is plenty room in the
battery area.

Suggested watts (300, 500, 1000 ??) Suggested Manufacturers?

Can it be wired to work with the existing 110 V wiring and outlets
already in the EVC.

Please help - by the way Sharp has just release a miniature
Microwave called The Half Pint which would be way cool for your EVC
and it has a low wattage demand.

I took what I think was the easiest and least expensive way out for
what I needed and bought a portable inverter that plugs into the 12v
sockets. It provides 600w peak and 300w continuous through 2
grounded AC outlets, which is plenty for what I use it for (laptop
computer, camcorder, small portable fan, small portable evap.
cooler). For these uses, we rest the inverter on a rubber pad on top
of the galley, when the lid is closed. The unit works well and has
an alarm that alerts you when the 12v system begins to wane. It is a
Whistler PP300AC, and I got it at Best Buy for about $75. For
appliances that require more than 150w, Whistler recommends
hardwiring it to the battery, but provides a connectior that is too
short to be practical for the EVC.

I'm no circuithead, but I'd guess that an inverter system that powers
the existing AC outlets would be more trouble and expense to install
than it would be worth, unless you'll be using high wattage
appliances regularly. In that case, you might need to invest in a
generator too, because that level of use would drain the coach
battery quickly when you're not driving.

Joel Funk
97 EVC

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Hi evrybody, is someone out there had a problem with the shifter that
won't go on PARK position on an automatic trans on a 93. I have this
problem and i'm thinking if it's just the cable adjustement or
anything else. And is it something i can fix by myself.
Thanks folks.

I know from experience that the shifter cable can easily be damaged. Has
anyone worked on the van prior to you noticing the problem?
You can test the cable but it is a BIG pain to unhook it. Follow it from
under the van to the transmission. On top of the tranny it is attached to a
short lever. If you can reach in somehow and remove the clip from the
attachment--disconnecting the cable--you can check if it moves freely. You
should also be able to shift the transmission by moving the lever. If you
can move the lever into the Park position, then it is the cable.
Are the other gears ok? Look down at the shifter and put the van in "D".
Does it say "D" on the shifter? You can also take the plastic trim off
around the shifter inside the van (I think you remove 4 screws). There you
will find a screw for adjusting the cable.
Hope it is something simple and not a transmission problem. I bent my cable
when I installed a new transmission. Parts of the cable are an aluminum rod,
which bends easily.
Good luck
Eckhard

It intrigues me that Winnebago went to all the all the trouble to install the
large and expenseive Magnatek Converter to supply 12 VDC while you are on
shore power

My question: Has anyone installed an INVERTER so that you have 110 VAC while
traveling and parked. There is plenty room in the battery area.

Suggested watts (300, 500, 1000 ??) Suggested Manufacturers?

Can it be wired to work with the existing 110 V wiring and outlets already in
the EVC.

Please help - by the way Sharp has just release a miniature Microwave called
The Half Pint which would be way cool for your EVC and it has a low wattage
demand.