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Re: Coleman Fuel

Chris Noeske
 

<<4. Is Coleman fuel bad. I don't know. But there are so many things it
<<could of screwed up. It could of burned too hot and burned an exhaust
<<valve. Something in it could of caused some rubber parts to swell in
<<the injection system. It could of poisioned the Cat or BOTH of the
<<oxygen sensors. Since you have ODB II there are two oxygen sensors
<<(one befor and on after the cat) and they look at the cat operation
<<and if the cat is dead it will rat on you to the dealer.

OUCH!! DO NOT TRY THIS! If anyone has ever used Coleman fuel to light a
fire, like my brother(who much younger and drunk at that time), they can
tell you it light very easily! Much easier than gasoline, and burns much
faster. It was probably a bad thing to do.




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Re: tightening torque

M & T Benne
 

Are you sure this is for eurovans, My bentley manual states 118 ft-lbs.

80 ft-lbs for wheel lug bolts
reference:
VW TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 294

DATE: 1995


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Check Engine Light and Coleman Fuel

Steve Kammerer
 

Whilst returning to MD from FL, I ran out of fuel on Rte 4. I remembered a
discussion I had with my daughter a while ago where she said that Coleman
fuel is essentially unleaded gas. Having a gallon of Coleman fuel in the
rear batter/junk compartment, I tried it. My 97 EVC started and ran for
about 3 miles getting me to a gas station without the check engine light
coming on. The motor did ping and knock when I would accelerate. (By the
way, the EVC only took 19.7 gallons including the gallon of Coleman fuel.
Where is the 21 gallon gas tank?) About a half hour later while continuing
on RT 95 North, I noticed the check engine light came on and stayed on all
the way up the MD. I stopped along the way at Springfield VW in VA, where I
bought the EVC and they said they would have no time to look at the check
engine light as it takes 1 1/2 hours to read the code on a Eurovan.
1. Is this true?
2. How long does it take to reset the light? If I reset it and then wait to
see if it comes on again I could see if there really is a problem now. I've
driven the car about 800 miles since running out of gas.
3. Can I reset the light myself or can I go to any VW place to have it
reset?
4. Is Coleman fuel really bad to have used? When I filled up the EVC I used
the highest octane at the pump to try and dilute what may have been low
octane Coleman fuel.
5. Will Timmy drown in the well before Lassie returns? Tune in tomorrow.

Thanks for any help!
Trip down to Sarasota and back was great. Wish the EVC had air conditioning
for when it is parked. FL in evening with no breeze is rough. At the
campground they asked what services I would be using. The lady said will
you be needing "cable TV, sewerage or air conditioning"? I answered, "This
is great! I'll be using the air conditioning", remembering the heaters they
used to give out at drive-in theaters in the 50's. Hey why not little air
conditioners in the 2000's. Well, anyway that's not what she meant.
Stopped on way down and back at Jekyl Island off GA coast. Beautiful
beaches where they don't mind if a chocolate lab goes swimming.

Stevek
97 EVC


EV's, awnings, and fun

Ercole, Chris
 

This weekend we went to the import car swapmeet and car show at Carlise
PA. It was a lot of fun. A few Vanagon's showed up and we were there in
our '93 MV. I saw a EVC and a really cool EV crew cab pickup. The
pickup was a Diesel stick shift and light blue. Whoever owned it was
running 215/70R15 and they seemed to fit fine. Actually I liked the way
they filled up the wheel wells more then my 205/65R15. The pickup had
really cool side view mirrors too they were mounted on large steel
brackets that extended from the sides of the van more then a foot.

My friend Graham met us there in his '85 Westy. He just installed a
shadyboy awning and it worked great. Small footprint easy to set up
light weight and held up well in the rain. There is a small gap between
the awning and van that will allow rain to slip past though.

I used my $15 home made tarp awning that worked terrific as usual. I've
had it set up in Maine during severe downpours and heavy winds with no
problem and it doesn't let rain pass between the van and awning. When I
use it again this weekend I'll try to take some pictures and scan them in
if anyone wants to see it. It's made from a ten foot length of 1/2"
conduit that I tied a heavy duty tarp to, 8x6 (I think) it is then bolted
to my roof racks with muffler clamps. This does a few things, first it
lifts the awning about three to four inches above the roof line which
allows wind to pass between the roof and awning helping to keep it
stable. Second it also places the awning back over the roof past the
rain gutter so any rain falling on the roof just runs down the gutter
instead of into the windows or down the side of the van. Third it is
mounted very securely with no holes, it is easy to remove and set up
takes about ten minutes. Not too pretty though. The other side is held
up with adjustable tarp poles. I believe you can find these at K-mart or
Sears etc. I found mine in the garbage. These work great, allowing it
to be higher or lower then the roof or you can adjust it with one side
higher then the other. I've found adjusting it with one side higher
works especially well in the rain. Allowing the rain to run off one
corner and not pool on the tarp. The down side and it's a big one. It
needs to be staked out. So setting it up in a parking lot can be
difficult, but not impossible, tying it to another car works well.
Staking it is not that bad though. It only requires two lines one for
each outboard corner staked out diagonally from the tarp. I use the nice
heavy duty plastic stakes and nylon line with the slip adjusters that
came with the poles I found. I've also used this same set up on my
Vanagons with and with out roof racks. With out the roof racks the
conduit fits perfectly into the rain gutter I then used small C-clamps to
hold it in place. This also worked very well but would let some rain in
and did not offer the same head room as with it attached to the roof
racks.

CE


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Re: Serpentine Belt Tool

Michael G. McCarthy
 

Greetings Eckhard:

Forget the JC Whitney serpentine belt tool. It's slick enough, the right
length (15"), and the ratcheting heads are nice, but it does NOT fit the EV.
It has 4 fittings (two on each end, and all four ratchet in both
directions): 14mm hex, 17mm hex, 19mm (or 3/4") hex, and 19mm (or 3/4")
square.

Too bad the EV is a 13mm hex. It's a nice tool. JC Whitney will take it
back no questions asked and even reimburse some of the shipping.

Otherwise, it was EASY to rotate the tensioner with regular hand tools (I
should have tried that FIRST).

Get a long (10") combo box wrench (13mm/15mm). Craftsman has them for
cheap, but of course Matco, Mac, and Snap-on have them too. If you need
some extra leverage use a short piece of pipe over the 15mm side. There's
adequate clearance and you don't need all that much torque as you are only
rotating the tensioner's internal spring (indeed, if you find you need a LOT
of torque then you are doing something wrong.) You only have to rotate
(clockwise) a short distance to loosen the belt enough to pop it off its
path.

Mike

----------
From: "RocknRolz" <RocknRolz@...>
To: <mgmccarthy@...>
Subject: Timing Belt Tool
Date: Tue, May 16, 2000, 9:40 PM


Thanks for the message. At 90 000 miles my timing belt is overdue. Let me
know how things go.
Thanks
Eckhard

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Professionals built the Titanic!
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1993 EVMV for Sale

 

White MV, Texas, no rust

Auto, Power Door locks, PW, CC
136,300 miles

New Trans @ 80 K
Air cond system rebuilt last year ($3K)
New VW Cat Converter, rotors, belts water pump
motor mounts etc, etc
Synthetic oil

All work by VW dealer

best offer,

Wayne Van Kirk





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Re: Engine Fault Codes, late 5 cyl?

Donald Gibbons
 

4444 (or 1111 depending on how you read it) is the code for "no
errors codes stored". It thinks everything is fine.

The EV Bentley book does have a complete list of codes, but I have
not seen EV specific codes anywhere else.


Re: NOW I understand (tires)!

 

In a message dated 5/21/2000 1:44:33 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
scharold@... writes:

<< Sean,

I run currently 215/65 - 15.

Heres a little table:

Tire Size Comparison
Specification Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Revs/Mile
Difference
205/65-15 5.2in 12.7in 25.5in 80.1in 791
0.0%
215/65-15 5.5in 13.0in 26.0in 81.7in 776
2.0%
205/70-15 5.6in 13.1in 26.3in 82.6in 767
3.2%
215/70-15 5.9in 13.4in 26.9in 84.4in 751
5.3%
205/75-15 6.1in 13.6in 27.1in 85.2in 744
6.3%
215/75-15 6.3in 13.8in 27.7in 87.0in 728
8.6%

I used this calculator:
>>

Thanks for the post. TIC

swlink
s. arizona


Re: Check Engine Light and Coleman Fuel

Donald Gibbons
 

I will try and answer your questions but suspect you might be in deep
do do. First off running out of fuel can ruin your fuel pump all by
itself. that could spread all sorts of crud into the fuel system if
it does not get caught by the filter.

1. No, it may not actually take 1.5 hrs to check the codes but that
maybe the shop time they will charge you for it. This time may be to
get everything ready and warmed up and checked.

2. Some problems that make the light come on will "Go away" after a
certain time or number of starts, maybe 40 starts.

3. No, you cant reset it.

4. Is Coleman fuel bad. I don't know. But there are so many things it
could of screwed up. It could of burned too hot and burned an exhaust
valve. Something in it could of caused some rubber parts to swell in
the injection system. It could of poisioned the Cat or BOTH of the
oxygen sensors. Since you have ODB II there are two oxygen sensors
(one befor and on after the cat) and they look at the cat operation
and if the cat is dead it will rat on you to the dealer.

I "Hope" that none of this bad stuff has happened. If you are lucky
it is just that the gas cap is not tight enough. Also if you are
lucky you did not tell the dealer what you did. Even if coleman fuel
is OK to use it is not an approved fuel and will allow the dealer to
make a big profit on all the parts he will sell you to fix this.


Re: Engine Fault Codes, late 5 cyl?

M & T Benne
 

I got my check engine light to blink codes. One was stored, 4444. My
bentley did not have a listing for this code. Any ideas where I can get a
listing of the trouble codes?

Tobi

OK, it does not matter if the engine is running or not (I have done
this both ways) Open the cover to the fuse area, just to the left of
the steering wheel. Along the top edge of the opening you should have
two electrical connectors, a white one and a black one, each with two
connection points inside. Simply make a jumper wire that connects the
bottom wire of the white connector to the bottome wire of the black
connector. Putting this jumper wire in place should make the check
engine light come on and after a few seconds it will start to blink a
code.

This will give you codes to see what the ECU thinks is wrong but you
can not reset anything.


Re: tightening torque

 

80 ft-lbs for wheel lug bolts
reference:
VW TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 294

DATE: 1995


Re: NOW I understand (tires)!

John Waterman
 

Sean,
It is extremely important to have reinforced sidewalls (which the Michelin
Agilis have and I believe that the LTX do not!). You might want to consider
going back to Discount Tire and asking that they replace them, as the non
reinforced can be a safety hazard. My "99 came with 205's and as I recall,
my "95 had 195's. There is plenty of clearance with the 205's.
John

seangar@... wrote:

I have been amazed at how many posts are generated for tires (in the
vanagon group too). I just bought (had to be ordered) some Michelin
LTX (215/75R15) from discount tire. They jacked up my rear end so
much that I was afraid it would affect the fridge operation. It also
had VERY close clearence to the fender well. We tried putting them on
the front but clearence was not enough when you turned (have
195/75R15 Goodyears there). So Discount Tire decided to give me 195
Goodyears on the back (they almost had to order these too, I got
lucky and they found a pair).

What I have learned:
No matter what anyone says 215s are WAY too BIG for the 95 EVC.
Although I did like the extra clearance it gave the vehicle.
195s are the size recomended in the manual. 205s might work.
Tires for this vehilce are hard to find.
Because of above you must do your own searching and find the tire,
then convince the tire dealer it exist (they most likely will not
have it in their database).
I dont like the Goodyears that I now have, their tread is a little
zig-zagy and possibly noisy due to that.
Tires for the EVC are expensive. Last year when I bought the
Goodyears they were $150/per tire.

So this is why (IMHO) EVC and Vanagon owners are so relentlesly
chating about tires.

SeanG

BTW anyone out there running 215s?

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Re: Any Suggestions on what Porta-Pottie to Buy???

John Waterman
 

Wess,
Any RV supply store will have them.. Also, Sears makes a pretty good one for
about $60. BTW, with the addition of a porta-potty the Eurovan qualifies as
a second home for IRS purposes.
I think you will be very happy with the "95 (I had one till a lady ran
through a red light and tipped me over. Replaced it with a "99). The "95 5
cyl audi engine and transmission combination is almost bullet proof.
Probably one of the most solid engines ever manufactured! 200 to 250,000
miles before overhaul is not out of line. Mine had 126,000 miles on it when
it was wrecked and did not burn a drop of oil between 5000 mile changes,
even under hard driving conditions. The only idiosyncracy that I am aware
of is that at altitudes over 5000 feet, the idle will intermittantly jump to
2000 rpm. Numerous attempts to correct this failed and a number of others
have reported the same problem. An irritation, but nothing too serious. I
am sure you will have many delightful miles with it.
John

wess boerlage wrote:

My wife and I just bought a 1995 EuroVan Camper last Friday and we
are both excited beyond belief!!!

I need to buy a porta-pottie and was looking for some recommendations.
Any sugggestions?

Wess

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Re: Sunroof Dimensions

Donald Gibbons
 

Even though the space between the roof ribs may be a certain
dimension there can be other hardware on the sunroof itself or in the
roof that can cause fitting problems. If you are bigger then the
factory roof that might be a big as you can go?


Re: 2000 cough question???

Tim Kirwan
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Add me to the list of coughers on my '99 EV MV, 20K miles. It just happened for the first time yesterday. 60 mph, level road. The check engine light came on for less than a second.

I'm going to bring it in to the dealer just to get the event logged while under warranty. I'll let you know what they say.

Tim

-----Original Message-----
From: louwsma@... [mailto:louwsma@...]
Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 9:43 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] 2000 cough question???


I have had the same thing happen on my 99 and was wondering what it was. I
thought it was a patch of "bad gas". It has happened twice, exactly as you
describe. I have less than 3M miles on mine. Jim


Re: 93 Eurovan

Kathie Strachan
 

The seller is asking $4,495. I thought it was a great price. I saw the EV's
at a car show years ago and loved it but had a hard time with the price =-)
This EV is in pretty good shape. Cosmetically, the interior needs a little
help. The seat could use a good steam cleaning and it was owned by a smoker,
but I thought I could get it to smell better eventually. It has front & rear
AC, all the room I need & more and is an AT which is why I need a new car
(hurt knee~no more 5 sp for me)

I've decided not to buy...just too risky for us. My husband does basic
things like oil changes and such, but dosen't like to tinker with cars as a
hobby. If anyone is interested in it, let me know!

Thanks everyone for the advice. It was a great help!

kgervais@... wrote:

Kathie,

I agree. these are high maintenance and high cost to maintain if you
don't do the work yourself.

With that many miles, the EV would be in the shop and you be going to
the bank fora loan to get it out.

Out of curiosity, how mauc was the dealer willing to sell it for???

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Re: tightening torque?

punch
 

"Ercole, Chris" wrote:

Does anyone know the tightening torque for the wheel bolts of my '93 EV
MV?
The info should be in your owners manual, if you have one.
If my memory is correct, it is rather high, 118 foot lb.


Sunroof Dimensions

 

Cheryl, thanks a lot for measuring your factory sunroof for me. At
24 1/2x13, that's even smaller than the 16x32 I was sold. Perhaps the
place that installed mine really couldn't put the 36" one in, as they
said. I still doubt that, though, looking at my roof. Please, if
there is anyone on this list who has installed an after-market
sunroof in their Eurovan, will you please post as soon as possible
the size that was installed. Thanks very much, Kathy


Re: Warning about testing the Cooling fans...

Michael G. McCarthy
 

The point was to test if the fan was defective, that's all. ?Take a heavy wire and connect the ground side with some sort of solid connection between the fan and the battery. ?Take another heavy wire, connect it solidly to the positive side of the battery. ?Then, take the remaining end and momentarily touch it to the remaining connection on the fan. ?If the fan fires up or remains dead, your diagnosis is complete. ?You don't have to run the fan for a long period of time and risk taxing the current carrying capacity of your temporary set up. ?A few seconds is all it takes to determine if the fan spins or not.

50 amps at 12volts is 600watts. ?That's about the current draw of a large screen TV. ?That's a lot compared to most current draws in a car, but it's hardly "unsafe" if you use heavy wires. ?The point is just to test the fan, nothing more.

Don't make it more complicated than it has to be. ?KISS.


Mike
----------
From: Jack Lowry
To: "'ev_update@...'"
Subject: [ev_update] Warning about testing the Cooling fans...
Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 10:23 PM


Be Very Very Very Careful when trying to test a fan by wiring 12 volts directly
from the battery.

The fans draw a lot of current (thats why the fuses are 50 amps for each fan)
If yor use a wire heavy enough to power a fan and get it wrong by connecting
to ground lead of a fan, the wire will probaly weld itself at both ends,
get really hot and if you are lucky the wire will brun through.

If you are not lucky the wire will continue to pass a lot of current,
causing the battery to generate a lot of hydrogen.

One little spark possibly form the wire finally burning through, or you
cutting the wire, and you'll have a problem that's rivaled only by
fuel leaking over the distributor.

I'd suggest that you follow the troubleshooting guide that I've put
togather. Provide my guide will help you test the fans, medium speed relays,
high speed relays, resistors and fuses. The only part that can't be
easily verified (ask me I've been there) is the low speed relay,
this relay has two sets of contacts one for each fan. There is
two of everything else fans, fuses, medium speed relays, high speed relays,
and resistors.




-----Original Message-----
From: Michael G. McCarthy [mailto:mgmccarthy@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 8:40 PM
To: ev_update@...; ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Cooling fans...


You can test the fan motor by wiring 12 volts to it from the battery. ?Use a
heavy wire, and you should be able to tell which terminal is plus and which
is minus (although I don't think it matters; if you get it backwards the fan
will just spin backwards).

The big resistors contol fan speed. ?If they are crumbling I wouldn't trust
they are passing electrons properly, although they might.

Thermo-switches are BLUE, and make sure the connectors are cleaning and
actually making connections before ruling them out. ?There are two on
cooling hose coming off the front of the engine between number 1 and 2
cylinders.




----------
From: "John F. Gladu" <grungy@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Cooling fans...
Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 8:25 PM


Where were we?
Driver's side fan runs (both speeds).
Passenger side fan does not run.

The fuses are good.
My VW guru suggested checking the resistors behind the panel under the
left headlight. ?I did - both are crumbling, but still passing electrons.
I'm going to check on replacing this assembly.

I may have to bite the bullet and buy a Bentley manual - I can only guess
at the wiring without one.

I still haven't figured out where the actual thermoswitch is that
regulates fan operation.

The louvers are opening properly on the back of the fan housing.

How can I test just the fan motor?
Can I just connect the two terminals on the fan to a battery?
What do the big resistors do?

bcnu - Grungy
'93 Eudoravan MV


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Warning about testing the Cooling fans...

Jack Lowry
 

Be Very Very Very Careful when trying to test a fan by wiring 12 volts directly
from the battery.

The fans draw a lot of current (thats why the fuses are 50 amps for each fan)
If yor use a wire heavy enough to power a fan and get it wrong by connecting
to ground lead of a fan, the wire will probaly weld itself at both ends,
get really hot and if you are lucky the wire will brun through.

If you are not lucky the wire will continue to pass a lot of current,
causing the battery to generate a lot of hydrogen.

One little spark possibly form the wire finally burning through, or you
cutting the wire, and you'll have a problem that's rivaled only by
fuel leaking over the distributor.

I'd suggest that you follow the troubleshooting guide that I've put
togather. Provide my guide will help you test the fans, medium speed relays,
high speed relays, resistors and fuses. The only part that can't be
easily verified (ask me I've been there) is the low speed relay,
this relay has two sets of contacts one for each fan. There is
two of everything else fans, fuses, medium speed relays, high speed relays,
and resistors.

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael G. McCarthy [mailto:mgmccarthy@...]
Sent: Sunday, May 21, 2000 8:40 PM
To: ev_update@...; ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Cooling fans...


You can test the fan motor by wiring 12 volts to it from the battery. Use a
heavy wire, and you should be able to tell which terminal is plus and which
is minus (although I don't think it matters; if you get it backwards the fan
will just spin backwards).

The big resistors contol fan speed. If they are crumbling I wouldn't trust
they are passing electrons properly, although they might.

Thermo-switches are BLUE, and make sure the connectors are cleaning and
actually making connections before ruling them out. There are two on
cooling hose coming off the front of the engine between number 1 and 2
cylinders.




----------
From: "John F. Gladu" <grungy@...>
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Cooling fans...
Date: Sun, May 21, 2000, 8:25 PM


Where were we?
Driver's side fan runs (both speeds).
Passenger side fan does not run.

The fuses are good.
My VW guru suggested checking the resistors behind the panel under the
left headlight. I did - both are crumbling, but still passing electrons.
I'm going to check on replacing this assembly.

I may have to bite the bullet and buy a Bentley manual - I can only guess
at the wiring without one.

I still haven't figured out where the actual thermoswitch is that
regulates fan operation.

The louvers are opening properly on the back of the fan housing.

How can I test just the fan motor?
Can I just connect the two terminals on the fan to a battery?
What do the big resistors do?

bcnu - Grungy
'93 Eudoravan MV


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