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Marv:

I just bought a 95 EVC and live here in Chicago, but wanna explore
Wisonsin nad do some camping. Do you know of and VW camping events in
the area?

thanks, I am new to this list, I also have a 72 and have been on the
Type 2 list for a while.

-mtm
"marvin westenburg" <westenbur-@...> wrote:
original article:

sendccmai-@... wrote:
original article:

Hello campers!

I'm having some problems with my coach battery (95EVC). First I

can't get it

to fully recharge unless I plug it into a 110 source. The

alternator

will

not charge the battery to green even after a 4-hour drive. Is this

normal or

is the alternator/recharging feature malfunctioning? (It will go to

green

after charging overnight on 110 -at home)

Second. When camping in Wisconsin's winter the coach battery dies

on

the

second night due to the almost constant use of the furnace.

Propane

use is

not an issue but battery power is. It's a Wal-mart extreme deep

cycle

battery. Is it worth investing in an Optima $170.00 deep cycle

battery?

Third, Nokian all season tires rock in the snow. I have no fear of

getting

stuck. My old 87 Westy was awful in the snow compared to my 95 EVC

I guess my first question would be is your alternator charging the
coach battery at all. To check this, see what the coach battery

voltage

is without the engine running, then check it with the engine running.
If the readings are the same the battery isn't being charged by the
alternator. I'd suspect the dual battery solenoid as I had to replace
mine. It's located on the firewall in the vehicle battery compartment.
Not hard to replace, just be sure not to overtorque the nuts on the
terminals. I ordered a replacement through the Winnebago dealer.
I also use a Walmart deep cycle battery in Wisconsin and it works

fine.

Marve
'95 EVC

In a message dated 2/16/00 12:03:54 PM Mountain Standard Time,
bruce@... writes:

bruce@...

Bruce, to get the brake drums off:

1- Spray some WD40 around the center hub
2- Locate the two small metric threaded holes in the drum close to the center
hub.
3- Find the correct threaded bolts and hand thread them in as far as they
will go.
4- Using a wrench, turn them one at a time 1/2 turn each until the drum pops
free.

John P. Donahue
93 EVGL - 119,000 miles and still original rear brakes
Greeley, Colorado

Dan,
I had the same problem with my dealer. No matter how much you try to suggest
they buy the parts ahead of time , they never do. The only solution is to
buy them yourself ahead of time and then hand them to the service people.
Ron

Todd,
I already mailed it so can't confirm the address, however, this is the one on
the letter from the General Sales Manager (Frank Maguire) came with it:

VW of America
PO Box 214378
Auburn Hills, MI 48321-4378

Ron

Bill,
I also noticed the latest brochure (poster?) makes no mention of the EVC.
Very strange. I guess they figure it's completely different and shouldn't be
in the same brochure. Perhaps because of the Winnebago deal they must keep
it separate. Is there even a 1999 EVC brochure at all? I have the '95 and
'97 EVC brochure but never saw a '99 one.
Ron

I got it, though we've never owned an EV. We do own an 86 Westy, and we have
made
inquiries direclty to VW about the EV, but my wife did that, and the
poster/movie offer
came to us with my name on it.


MK



1McCulloch wrote:

The drums are a pain, but there is nothing holding them on once the wheel is
off and the one little bolt is removed. You just need to turn-and-tap with
a ballpeen hammer, lightly of course, and get the drum ringing enough to
break it loose from the center hub, where ordinary corrosion can make it
sieze.

Don't try chemicals for obvious reasons, and don't try a soft hammer either
since you'll end up having to whack too hard.

Once the drum has broke loose from the hub, you still might have some
trouble getting it past the shoes, so make sure you back off the starwheel
adjustment, thereby retracting the shoes from their usual almost-dragging
position.


Mike


----------

I changed the front brake pads with no problem.
Now I need to change the shoes on the back, but can't get the drums off!
This is on a '93 EV GL

TIA, Bruce

Please reply directly as well as to the list as I am in digest mode only.



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The rear heater is interlocked with the defrost setting. When in
Defrost the rear heater BLOWER does not work.

There can be problems with the coolant lines that go to the rear
heater. To replace it per the factory book you have to remove LOTS of
stuff. Many owners have made their own repairs. It is also possible
that some one just re-routed the hoses to avoid a leak.

The third possibility is that the electrical valve that controls the
coolant flow to the rear heater is not working.

Didn't get the card, but would love to get the movie. Could someone e-mail
the address to which you are supposed to send the card so those of us not on
VW's list can inquire about getting a video.

Thanks
Todd

<<SNIP
If the resistor pack is burnt-out, it must be
replaced. The pack snaps out easily. To locate it, look for the wiring
harness with 4 wires on the top of the blower motor/air handler housing
<<SNIP

Is this the part I need to replace if my blower only operates at high
setting?

Thanks, Leif

"93 EV MV

I'll check it out tonight, thanks.

Regards, Leif

If the fan is squealing you have to replace it too or you will be replacing
the resistor in short order. And, yes, this is the part that you have to
replace if the blower is only working on high speed. That is the indication
that the resistor is blown.

Thanks, I will check into that.

Regards, Leif

Here are the destructions..er, uh, instructions.



1. Open the hood and remove the metal retainer clip holding the plastic
squirrel cage to the blower motor shaft. The squirrel cage can be
accessed through the fresh air intake located in the engine compartment.

2. Remove the glove box. The blower housing and motor are directly above
it.
3. Remove the electrical connectors from the motor. Then, using an
offset Phillips screwdriver, remove the 2 screws holding the blower
motor to the plastic cover plate, and the 3 screws holding the cover
plate to the blower housing. Pull the plastic cover plate off the
blower housing and the motor. The cover plate is sealed to the housing
with soft caulk so you may have to pry it off gently with a screwdriver.

4. Now comes the fun. It's really tight under the dash and the only way
to get the blower motor assembly out is to first remove the squirrel
cage from the motor. You can start this process from the engine
compartment with a hammer and punch. Then from under the dash, pull the
motor and cage assembly out of the housing, pointing the motor down.
Wedge the squirrel cage between the metal support bar and the blower
housing. Now grab the motor and pull down, working the squirrel cage off
the motor shaft. It's a slow process but it does come off if you keep at
it. Tapping the cage with a hammer and rotating it periodically will
help speed its removal.
5. Once the cage is off the motor, the motor can be removed by
positioning it at the widest point between the blower housing and the
metal support bar in front of the housing. Just keep moving the motor
around until it slips through. The cage will drop right out.
6. Reverse this procedure to install the new motor and cage. The new
motor will come with the squirrel cage attached. The cage will need to
be removed to get the motor back in. Use the new cage since it is
properly balanced for the motor. Be careful not to knock the weighting
clips off when reinstalling the cage or it will be out of balance and
vibrate at the higher fan speeds. Don't push the cage too far onto the
shaft or it will rub on the housing. Re-putty any gaps before putting
the plastic cover plate back on the blower housing. Make sure the
electrical connectors line up with the holes in the motor cover before
screwing it back in. If the resistor pack is burnt-out, it must be
replaced. The pack snaps out easily. To locate it, look for the wiring
harness with 4 wires on the top of the blower motor/air handler housing.

It's really not as bad a job as it sounds. Just be prepared to twist
your body up like a pretzel when you are working under the dash. The
whole process takes about three hours; even less the second time. But
you really don't want to do this job twice. Even though it's tempting to
try and save the motor, lubing it has proven to be only a temporary fix
based on my experience and that of two others I know who tried it. The
other person that used this R&R procedure took out the front seat which
would make it easier on the back. A few cold ones after the job should
help relieve the pain though. It worked for me.

Subject: Blower motor

Has anyone replaced the squealing blower motor in the dash? If so, what
did it cost? Could I do the job myself?-----Original Message-----

From: Sukitoby@... [mailto:Sukitoby@...]
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2000 7:36 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: RE:Blower motor


thanks for your rapid response but where is the "previously posted set of
directions?"

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Whoops, I really messed that up.

I have cuts and scratches all over my hands and forearms from this
procedure. And at one point I was about ready to kill someone. So maybe you
are right, Bill.

I forgot to caution that the blades on the squirrel cage are very sharp. I
sliced my finger on one of the blades while pulling it out.

Our approach to kitchen equipment was/is 1) buy cheap. 2) live with it for
a while. 3) decide what you really like. 4) buy a quality replacement as
you travel along. Thus you end up with quality, desireability, and a
momento of some stop along your travels. Jim McCarthy

At 02:08 PM 2/15/2000 -0800, you wrote:

"steven balsley" <sdbals-@...> wrote:
original article:

Jim-

Congratulations on you new purchase. Richard Cochran's website

If you borrow kitchen gear piecemeal from your home kitchen, you'll
want to make a packing list and revise it after every trip until
you get it right.

--Rich

Jim McCarthy
ex '87 Westfalia
'95 EuroVanCamper
Somerville, MA, USA

In a message dated 02/15/2000 10:39:58 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Roy.Nakamura@... writes:

<< and ask for a $3,000 discount and work-up from there.. >>

Generally they have this much room to play. It comes down to how much the
dealer wants to get one off their lot and how long it has been there. Look
on the drivers door sticker where it has the VIN number, it will also have
the date it was made.

When I purchased mine last July I got it for about $3,000 off MSRP.

Good Luck!!

Rolland Brower
99 Weekender

At 02:07 PM 02/15/2000 -0800, Bob wrote:

An authorized California dealer just quoted me an MSRP of $37,727 on a
new EVC with companion seat and CD player. Is this real? He was willing
to take $400 off, which makes it nearly $41,000 with tax and license.
I'm astounded.

So am I, but take heart. My dealer had a list price of $48,000 on the
window of the EVC, which he never was able to explain. I bought it, with
2-passenger center seat and cassette unit, for $33,000. It was McKenna VW
in Huntington Beach, and I got the reference using Carpoint, I think. I
tried several Internet buying services and got only two responses, but one
of them paid off big-time.
McKenna has several dealerships, but you can start with the fleet manager
in HB at 714-842-2000 and see if they have one in stock.

-- Chuck (99 EVC Moby Auk)


========
Chuck Bragg, Santa Monica Bay Audubon Society

cgbragg@...
fax: 209-671-6396
========

At 06:32 PM 02/15/2000 -0500, Michael wrote:

Pretty class act, I'd say.

Or, a very deft CYA. The review stank, and I am not a VW zealot. It was
simply a non-informative cheap shot review.

-- Chuck (99 EVC Moby Auk)

========
Chuck Bragg, Santa Monica Bay Audubon Society

cgbragg@...
fax: 209-671-6396
========