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"douglas anderson" <dougal-@...> wrote:
original article:

I have access to a Canadian certified EuroVan Syncro.

E-mail me if interested.

I am also very interested in this, as I cannot find any info on EuroVan
syncros.
If you could even just suggest a site to look at, I would appreciate it.

thanks,
Michael Kamerick

i know the a2 jettas have the same problem with the headlights . the vw
expert who sold it to me told me to run a bead of silicone around the sel
where the glass from the headlight meets the metal reflective backing . i am
not sure if this works because i switched from the 2 rectangle lights to the
double round H-4's and have had no problems since.
chris
89 jetta
95 jetta
no ev :(

is your ev a weekender ed.? does it have a automatic or 5 speed tranny?

In a message dated 2/15/00 12:41:51 PM Central Standard Time,
erolz@... writes:

<< I have been monitoring the German counterpart to our list, the T-4 Forum.
Recently there was a discussion on fog lights. It was the consensus that the
original are very expensive. In Germany the dealers say that one has to
change
the bumper and install one that has some sort of support for the lights. I
am not
sure how true that is. The price they quoted was DM1800 for fog light
installation, which is about $900. I opted for a cheap set of fog lights, >>

Somewhere I have the part numbers and pricing for the factory fog lights.
I'll look around at home tonight. The pricing wasn't that bad, but still
somewhere around $300.

You don't need a new bumper, but you need to cut holes in the one you have.
This isn't a big issue if you have the black bumpers, but the painted bumpers
can be easily chipped around the cut opening.

There are also fog light kits available from Hella, but not here in the US.
I've been trying to import these for the past few months and hope to have
some good news soon.

Steve Lashley
'66 Westy
'74 Campmobile
'93 EV MV
<A href="></A>
314-614-0750
Importing German Side Tents, Carver Propane Heaters and other Accessories for
Bus, Vanagon and EuroVan

What was the sticker price?.Jim

I just purchased the Optima Marine Deep-Start battery (Model D900M) for my
'93 EV MV WK. There have been complaints that it's hard to find a good
deep-start battery that will fit into the space under the driver's seat. I
chose the Optima because it is the right type of battery for the application
and because it is completely sealed, it can be mounted in virtually any
position.

To fit under the seat, I had to mount it on it's side with the terminals
facing forward (allowing front access from the snap-off panel). To my
surprise, this fit precisely into the metal base plate that supported the
original battery. The small metal clip that bolted down to hold the old
battery simply turns sideways to fit the exact dimensions of the Optima.
(There is a God!)

Turned sideways, this clip no longer secures the battery to the base plate
eliminating movement, but it does secure the battery from sliding foreward
and backward. Enough pressure will allow you to slide the battery from left
to right, so I used two styrofoam blocks to take up the space on either side
of the battery.

I am very pleased with the battery - it is also designed to be charged via
solar panels and a voltage regulator. I highly recommend this solution as it
requires no customization (aside from turning the clip around) and makes the
limited space a non-issue.

If you would like to see how I did it, i have some photos showing the
orientation of the battery and the rotated clip and styrofoam blocks. Let
me know if you want the specifics. The battery is more expensive than
regular starting batteries, but it'd a totally different kind of battery.
Check out their website to read up
on what makes it so different.

Good luck!

Scott Bramwell
'93 EV MV WK
Colorado Springs

Steve- Could you please tell me what changes you saw between the 1999
and 2000 EVC? I'm trying to decide if the 2000 is worth the extra $$.
Tnaks. - Mary

"steve and pat mecham" <spmecha-@...> wrote:

original article:

I am one of those who has a blower with only high speed. Could you please
tell me how to lubricate and change the resistors on my 95 EVC. (What are
the values of these in ohms and watts - still trying to find out)
Steve with 95 EVC

larry schellhase <schellhas-@...> wrote:
original article:

I bought and installed this awning last summer. I do
not consider myself to be mechanically inclined and
the installation took some effort and caused some
fustration, but I am pleased with the outcome.

The awning sets up easily (the only problem I have is
remembering which poles go in which holes).

When it is very windy the Shady Boy could be a
problem. It needs to be well staked to prevent the
wind from blowing it over the top of the van.

On balance I like the fact that it is so compact and
that setup and take-down require just a few minutes.

--- Lary Saltzman <saltzman@...>
wrote:

Does anyone have any experience with the Shady Boy
awning. It does not
use poles-- it uses fiberglass rods that hold the
awning up and out
without touching the ground.
Larry--do the fiberglass poles have to be stored seperatley or do

they fit in the awning holder on the van??

Jim-

Congratulations on you new purchase. Richard Cochran's website
includes some nice ideas on how to "fine tune" your new evc, if you are
so inclined. In addition, he has a list of supplies, etc. he takes
when camping: . Of
course, every owner's camping list will be unique, but this should get
you started.

Steve Balsley
99 evc

I just purchased a new '99 EVC. I am now through all the manuals and

have

turned everything on, made all the beds, raised the roof, and

successfully

removed the middle seat. My question--does anyone have a checklist of

the

stuff they put in the EVC prior to leaving on a camping trip? If you

could

send it via e-mail, that would be wonderful. I am new at this.

Thanks, Jim

Rick,

>> I tend to think there is something about
>> VW's ergonomic design which
>> is non-intuitive.

The same could probably be said about all German cars -- they all seem to
concentrate on controls that are anything but intuitive to the first time
user -- or those of us who would rather spend our time on other things than
reading user manuals. As far as the design of the controls in our '97 EVC
go, I personally feel they're much better designed than in earlier model
VW's, but then again, maybe I'm just getting used to that German engineering
mindset. ;-)

The interior sliding door handle is definitely hard to find for first time
users -- poor location and designed to be as unobtrusive as possible and
blending in with its surrounding surface. From a safety standpoint, door
handles should be as obvious as possible to the passenger. The only thing
worse is the completely hidden interior rear hatch release handle --- I'm
sure most of us would die in an emergency before being able to locate and
activate that release. I'll bet that magazine reviewer didn't even realize
there even is a rear hatch release.

Sheldon
'97 EVC

1. I dont relly have any tips for the headlight moisture. You seem to
have some good idea.

2. Automatic vibration. The 96 Rialta I just got does this too. I
highly suspect that it is the engine/trans mount right to the rear of
where the engine and transmission join. There are two different
designs, so get the right one. Mine has the latter design and the
rubber part is visiblt sunken down somewhat. This is a common problem
but hopefully not too hard to fix.

3. Whine. There are MANY idler pulleys! The Surpentine aux belt has
two, and the timing belt also has two. The timing belt ones can be
trick to reach. The upper one is easy to do, does not even require
removing the timing belt. But the lower timing belt idler is hidden by
the crank pulley and its cover.

Lary,
There have been several threads on this in the past couple of years.
General consensus has been quite favorable.
John

Lary Saltzman wrote:

Does anyone have any experience with the Shady Boy awning. It does not
use poles-- it uses fiberglass rods that hold the awning up and out
without touching the ground.

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John Waterman
Parker,CO

Check the relay under the hood just above the battery; I would wager that it is
no longer functioning. About $12.00 at VW or less at an auto parts store.
John

Sendccmail@... wrote:

Hello campers!

I'm having some problems with my coach battery (95EVC). First I can't get it
to fully recharge unless I plug it into a 110 source. The alternator will
not charge the battery to green even after a 4-hour drive. Is this normal or
is the alternator/recharging feature malfunctioning? (It will go to green
after charging overnight on 110 -at home)

Second. When camping in Wisconsin's winter the coach battery dies on the
second night due to the almost constant use of the furnace. Propane use is
not an issue but battery power is. It's a Wal-mart extreme deep cycle
battery. Is it worth investing in an Optima $170.00 deep cycle battery?

Third, Nokian all season tires rock in the snow. I have no fear of getting
stuck. My old 87 Westy was awful in the snow compared to my 95 EVC

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Save cash today!


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John Waterman
Parker,CO

In a message dated 2/15/00 6:08:09 AM, gibbonsnc@... writes:

<< 1. I dont relly have any tips for the headlight moisture. You seem to
have some good idea. >>

Mine was the same when I purchased it. All you need to do is dry them out,
buy some silicone and seal around the lamp where the glass meets the plastic
housing on the assembly. Mine has held for three years. Do it soon, though.
My Passat had the same problem and the moisture ruined the back reflector,
making the light useless. Had to purchase a new unit at $140.00.

A little glass tip for the EV; get a low deductible on insurance. The
headlights are expensive and the front windshield's list price is around
$1,200.00. I have a zero deductible on glass and it raised my rates only $25
per year. If I replace my windshield once in 48 years, (which I have) it
will have paid for itself.

Todd Vess
Windsor, Colo.

Here is a reprint of the engine mount repair hints I've collected from this
group.

Note #1
Mine was built in 9/92 and yes, my motor mounts were in bad shape when I
replaced them. The rubber in the center one (to which you refer) had
countless cracks and the rubber was very hard. After replacement the EV feels
much better and does not vibrate and shake anymore. If you decide to change
the mounts yourself I can tell you how to do it. I paid $115 for the large
one in the middle and $ 60 for the one on the driver's side. After 88,000
miles that was a good investment.

Check
Both parts are original VW, made in Germany. The boxes must have been on the
shelf since 93 since there was a thick layer of dust on the box and in the
box.

__________________________________________________________

Note #2
A few months ago I replaces my transmission and I also did the mounts. The
Bentley was not much help. This is how I did it: (This procedure is for a
9/92 EV with the "new" mount (Bentley H 37-35 picture V37-1119) The procedure
is different if you have a pre 8/92 EV. There you have to measure
an air gap and make the necessary adjustments (Bentley H 37-39
I jacked up the EV on very good (6ton) Snap On stands and lifted it as high
as possible. I used a 6 ton floor jack. My friend is a mechanic and has
lots of neat tools. There are 3 engine/transmission mounts. on the driver's
side right next to / under the battery and one on the opposite side. The one
in the middle is the offending mount because it carries a lot of weight. I
put a floor jack under the transmission to support it. Then I loosened the
bolts on the mount. An extension came in handy. If I remember correctly
there are two bolts on the passenger side and two that you have to access
from the rear. You need good tools because the bolts are very tight. I had
to use my legs and a long handle to get them off. One is really hard to
reach. You need a (I think 15mm) open wrench which can not be too long. But
then you don't have the leverage you need and it is not easy to get the bolt
off. I used a hammer and brute strength and it came off. There is not much
room to move or turn a wrench. Once all the bolts are out you might be able
to get the old mount out. Since I was doing the tranny at the same time I
disconnected the other mount on the driver's side and the exhaust. This move
enabled me to "swing" the engine forward (supported by a jack, of course).
That gave me enough room to remove the old mount and insert the new one.
(This is only possible if the drive shafts are removed--which I had to do
anyway.) I used Locktite and then torqued the bolts as much as I could.

I would recommend you put the car on ramps, or jack it up (safely)
and take a good look at the mount. According to Bentley there are 4 bolts
on the mount and the big long one that goes through the mount. I think if
you unbolt the mount on the driver's side (if necessary) you might be able
to push the engine/transmission assembly forward enough to get the mount
out. It sure makes a difference to have new mounts. I don't know if it is
necessary to replace any other ones. I did but the other two mounts seemed
in perfect condition. Next I will get my injectors cleaned and I hope that
the old EV will be as vibration-free as it used to be, a long time ago.
_________________________________________________________

That's it. I haven't tried any of this myself but I plan to soon.

John Coleman
93 EVMV Weekender
Boulder, CO

In a message dated 02/11/2000 4:43:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
LTVess@... writes:

Personally, I don't have a problem with attachments. If I don't want to
download them because the file is too big or it's not of interest to me, I
simply delete the message after reading it.

I agree. An attached file is available to download if it is of interest,
otherwise it does not impact the retrieval time of my e-mail from my ISP to
my PC. I have found that requesting a graphic file from a member who has
offered to send it to only those interested has been less than 100% effective.

As to the referenced attachment for a bike rack, I had been ignoring the
sender's exuberance about the (unknown to me) Fiamma racks until I opened
that particular attachment. I was quite impressed with the approach and may
take that product into consideration now. Thanks, Thomas!

It would be helpful to continue to include a brief description of the
contents of an attachment with the posting to help the reader's decision to
download. On several occasions attachments on this list have made no
reference to an attachment within the text of the posting. In most cases
there is meaningful data in the attachment, but recently I have received
attachments that contain only advertisement banners from commercial web
pages. I can only guess that this is some consequence of reading/writing
mail directly from the EV_Update eGroups web site. In this age of virus
attacks, I am somewhat apprehensive about downloading an attachment of
unknown origin.

Bill Armstrong, EVC Speculator
Endwell, NY
'71 Econoline (home brew camper)
'93 Tracer Wagon

Group,
This has to do with a used '93 EV automatic that I purchased last
December. I will sincerely appreciate any help in "pointing my nose" on
the following problems.

1. HEADLIGHT ASSY MOISTURE - The front headlights accumulate moisture
inside the assembly after rain. It originally had moisture when I
picked it up from the previous owner. I took the headlights off and
placed them over my wife's oven after she had baked to purge the
condensate. Now after the recent rains in So. California there's
moisture inside again. These assemblies do not use the H4 bulb as
discussed in Robert Bentley. They use 9004s. I have my RTV sealant
ready, but was there a recall or anything related to this moisture
problem that anyone knows?

2. ENGINE VIBRATION - When stopped with gear in Drive, engine exhibits
a high level of vibration (literally enough to drop your earwax). Move
selector in Neutral and it's gone. Was this model always like this
since new? Which of the 3 mount do I need to replace to cure the
problem?

3. WHISTLING IN AIR INTAKE - I don't think this noise comes from a
tensioner or pulley with already marginal life as the former owner
suggested. He mistook it for a slipping multi-V belt (and it sounds
like it), had it replaced but the problem did not disappear. For one,
the pitch does not change and it only happens when after the engine is
started from dead cold. Rev the engine to 3000 rpm thereafter and it
generates what sounds like air being throttled through an orifice.
Pretty loud too. Once engine is warm, noise is pretty much gone except
for isolated instances when it suddenly reappears at around 3000 rpm.
Does anybody out there remember experiencing this?

Thanks in advance.


Kit

John,

We test drove a 2000 a couple of weeks ago in Colorado.
It definitely had a few changes from the `99, including the
sticker. Yep, they're out there!

- Steve

Larry,

I've seen all over that the VR6 motor using a MOTRONIC Engine Management
System (your powerplant) will run on 87 octane. However, I also know
that the VR6 has a 10:1 compression ratio so MOTRONIC will surely always
retard ignition timing to prevent pinging. Basically it's a compromise
that runs a high compression motor on cheap gas. You never really bring
out the full potential of the engine. If you travel unladen most of the
time, I guess 87 shouldn't be a problem. Of course running retarded
increases engine heat and works up your cooling system but it shouldn't
be a problem if you're in a cold region. (Are you?)

So here's my $0.02 worth.

1. If a motor uses knock sensor (like your), it is most probably high
compression. (NOTE: The older 5 cyl. EV motors had two version. The 93
later ones had knock sensors because they were high compression. The
original motor used when EV first came out was low compression, no knock
sesnors. Since VW "hints" at NOT using 87 octane on the 5-cyl high
compression motors, it does not make sense to me why they suggest it's
use on the VR6 regardless of what kind of engine management system they
put in.)

2. Personally if I had your '99 EV, I'd use 89 or even 91. I'd stay
away from 87 unless it was the "only gas available for the next 100
miles".

3. Note too that the BOSCH W8DTC spark plugs are important. These plugs
have 3 negative electrodes and the engine will only properly work with
them. There was a gas station mechanic that undermined this "hign
fangled 3-electrode plug" only to bring no power, rough idle & misfirng
problems to a 5-cyl. low compression EV that he serviced for a client in
the past on a regular basis. Since the owner was not any knowledgeable,
he eventually resorted to 91 octane just to get some kind of decent
performance. After considerable misery, he just bought a '99 EV. I
ended up buying the 5-cyl and put evenything back to specs. Now it runs
fine on 87 octane, but here I prefer using 89 because the engine runs
cooler and gives a smoother idle. (I'm in So California.)

Regards.

Kit Samson


Lary Saltzman wrote: