Re: 95 Eurovan Intermittent screeching when initally accelerating
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Re: 95 Eurovan Intermittent screeching when initally accelerating
The belt could easily be worn out. I would also check the condition of the tensioner and all the idler bearings, as well as the AC clutch bearing and the water pump.
Usually a squealing belt means it's either worn out completely, or the tensioner is shot, or something being driven by the belt is about to lock up.
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Re: 95 Eurovan Intermittent screeching when initally accelerating
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On Fri, Aug 12, 2022 at 9:51 AM, Joel <joellipson@...> wrote: Our 95 Eurovan has begun making a screeching noise when beginning to accelerate.? It is intermittient in that sometimes it does not happen at all and, so? far,? tends to disappear after hitting about 25 miles per hour.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Joel
95 Eurovan (Bennie)
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95 Eurovan Intermittent screeching when initally accelerating
Our 95 Eurovan has begun making a screeching noise when beginning to accelerate.? It is intermittient in that sometimes it does not happen at all and, so? far,? tends to disappear after hitting about 25 miles per hour.
Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Joel
95 Eurovan (Bennie)
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Norcold 3163 finally cured....
Last Update?: Well, at the end, it turned out that my green light was Always on when I was pressing the gas selector on the mainboard. A melting pot of troubles !!! But, I had the chance to be helped by a very knowledgeable member here, and I name Sam Letzring who helped me so much that I was finally able to solve my problems. Now, the fridge is working like a ‘NEW ONE’ on gas/electric and DC. Congrats to Sam for his precious help......and to all the others here who took time to give me some clues !!!
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Cheers,
?
Yves
‘97贰痴颁
Canada
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Re: 1993 VW Eurovan for sale.
jhodnetts, I don't think you answered Cole's question.? What do you want?? Also, you might also say the mileage, does the bike rack and storage container convey, got 15 or 16 inch tires, tire condition, poptop condition?? Little more info is helpful.? v/r,
Mike
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Re: 1993 VW Eurovan for sale.
For a van with a bad trans and needing work I’d probably take that and run.
Good luck with the sale
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On Aug 10, 2022, at 9:34 PM, jhodnetts <jamhodnett@...> wrote:
?Someone has already offered me $7500. Lots of interest. Have a great day,
James
On Aug 10, 2022, at 7:53 PM, Cole <colepford@...> wrote:
?So what do you consider a fair price ?
On Aug 10, 2022, at 4:20 PM, jhodnetts <jamhodnett@...> wrote: ?We have a 1993 Eurovan with a manual transmission. The good, engine in great working order. No coolant leaks, barely any oil leaks. Suspension is good. Tires are good. Pop top has a couple of small rips, works well. Barely any rust. Issues are manual transmission is on the way out. Radio has a short and pulled the fuse to stop that. AC is weak but works. This Van tons of potential. No low ballers.
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Re: 1993 VW Eurovan for sale.
Someone has already offered me $7500. Lots of interest. Have a great day,
James
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On Aug 10, 2022, at 7:53 PM, Cole <colepford@...> wrote:
?So what do you consider a fair price ?
On Aug 10, 2022, at 4:20 PM, jhodnetts <jamhodnett@...> wrote:
?We have a 1993 Eurovan with a manual transmission. The good, engine in great working order. No coolant leaks, barely any oil leaks. Suspension is good. Tires are good. Pop top has a couple of small rips, works well. Barely any rust. Issues are manual transmission is on the way out. Radio has a short and pulled the fuse to stop that. AC is weak but works. This Van tons of potential. No low ballers.
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Re: 1993 VW Eurovan for sale.
So what do you consider a fair price ?
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On Aug 10, 2022, at 4:20 PM, jhodnetts <jamhodnett@...> wrote:
?We have a 1993 Eurovan with a manual transmission. The good, engine in great working order. No coolant leaks, barely any oil leaks. Suspension is good. Tires are good. Pop top has a couple of small rips, works well. Barely any rust. Issues are manual transmission is on the way out. Radio has a short and pulled the fuse to stop that. AC is weak but works. This Van tons of potential. No low ballers.
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1993 VW Eurovan for sale.
We have a 1993 Eurovan with a manual transmission. The good, engine in great working order. No coolant leaks, barely any oil leaks. Suspension is good. Tires are good. Pop top has a couple of small rips, works well. Barely any rust. Issues are manual transmission is on the way out. Radio has a short and pulled the fuse to stop that. AC is weak but works. This Van tons of potential. No low ballers.
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Re: Is it the RELIGHTER module that failed on my Norcold ?
Yves
The green light is triggered by the electrical conductivity of
the propane flame ( flames are a plasma with high electrical
conductivity). If the green light is one without a flame then
something else is completing the circuit. That usually is soot?
buildup on the igniter ( the ceramic insulator withethe spark
electrode protruding from it). Check the ceramic and clean it and
see if that helps. If not- then it is a failure in the relighter.?
Sam
02EVC
On 8/10/2022 2:49 PM, Yves Desilets via
groups.io wrote:
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Hi,
I'm facing a MAJOR problem with my Norcold 3163 fridge and I
really need your hefp. My fridge suddenly stopped working on gas
!!! When I push on the gas selector in the front of the mainboard,
the GREEN light shows up without me touching the safety valve RED
button and it stays lit that way without hearing a 'poof' sound
from the burner showing me that the burner would be on ! There is
no flame in the burner at all. It's like everything was dead on
the fridge, just the GREEN light that stays lit. What could it be
? It was working very well before that thing happened. I checked
the fuses on top of the fridge, especially the 1 AMP one and all
is fine. It's also working well when connected to AC (electric). I
cannot have it checked by somebody 'cause they are all booked for
a month and I need to have it repared as soon as possible....Could
it be the RELIGHTER ? What module do you think could cause such a
thing ? When I push on the RED button, there's no sound and no
flame. It's not lighting. Just the green light that shows up
without flashing (solid green). What module is responsible of
giving a flame and a click when pressing the safty valve button
(red one) ? Thanks for your help....I'm really despaired !!!
Yves
'97EVC
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Is it the RELIGHTER module that failed on my Norcold ?
Hi,
I'm facing a MAJOR problem with my Norcold 3163 fridge and I really need your hefp. My fridge suddenly stopped working on gas !!! When I push on the gas selector in the front of the mainboard, the GREEN light shows up without me touching the safety valve RED button and it stays lit that way without hearing a 'poof' sound from the burner showing me that the burner would be on ! There is no flame in the burner at all. It's like everything was dead on the fridge, just the GREEN light that stays lit. What could it be ? It was working very well before that thing happened. I checked the fuses on top of the fridge, especially the 1 AMP one and all is fine. It's also working well when connected to AC (electric). I cannot have it checked by somebody 'cause they are all booked for a month and I need to have it repared as soon as possible....Could it be the RELIGHTER ? What module do you think could cause such a thing ? When I push on the RED button, there's no sound and no flame. It's not lighting. Just the green light that shows up without flashing (solid green). What module is responsible of giving a flame and a click when pressing the safty valve button (red one) ? Thanks for your help....I'm really despaired !!!
Yves
'97EVC
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The AAF does not have one, which is the I5 that I am used to.
On Wed, Aug 10, 2022, 11:41 AM Joshua Van Tol < jvantol@...> wrote: There is no EGR valve in the I5 engine afaik.
There certainly is on the 1995 ACU engine. I just looked at mine, and it's right there on the flywheel end of the engine, up against the intake manifold. It's also shown on the vacuum hose/emissions schematic sticker on the front radiator support.
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It's not necessary to "clean up" the transmission. You could try a different spec of gear oil in hopes of better synchro action, but chances are, they are just worn, and the only true cure will be tearing down the transmission and replacing the synchro rings.
Redline MT90 is probably what you used, and is pretty good stuff. There's also redline MTL, which is a bit thinner I think. I've had good luck with Motul gear lubes in terms of smoothing worn synchros, but again, if they're worn out, the only true cure might be replacement.
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There is no EGR valve in the I5 engine afaik.
There certainly is on the 1995 ACU engine. I just looked at mine, and it's right there on the flywheel end of the engine, up against the intake manifold. It's also shown on the vacuum hose/emissions schematic sticker on the front radiator support.
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There is no EGR valve in the I5 engine afaik.
This sounds like you may have a fuel flow issue (it's usually the fuel filter), and the ECU is attempting to compensate by richening out the mixture (it's the default VW setting as well for when things go wrong: just flood the engine with fuel)
If it's not that, it's one of the other 4 digifant sensors that control fuel mixture
Also, you may have a vacuum leak issue.? Your excellent mechanics should know about this stuff.
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Hey folks,
I've been pretty quiet for a while but I've been able to start tackling some EV projects and I have some questions for the group.?
One thing I've wondered is if this is the best place still to post questions.? There seem to be more forums out there now and Samba is more active with EV conversation as they age. Facebook groups seem to get a ton of traffic but not quite as expert advice.? Where do you find the best information?
To my topic, I've been battling with my 210,000 5spd being hard to get into 1st gear for a while and last year 5th gear started to not want to mesh up easily.? I replaced all the linkage bushings again and really paid a lot of attention to the adjustment of the shift rod and it still wasn't as good as I was hoping.??
I decided to change the fluid since I couldn't remember when but I was sure that I had changed it in the last 100k/15 years.? I discovered that it was low (I was sure I had checked at some point) and the fluid was quite nasty. It looked more like dirty motor oil and there was a fair amount of nastiness looking in the fill hole.
I refilled with the Redline fluid that GoWesty sells and have driven about 10k on it since. It feels good and goes into 1st consistently and easily.? 5th is still a difficult speed meshing of the syncro to get it into gear, especially after it warms up.
I'm curious if anyone has had trouble with the Redline oil over VW spec oil?? I have a faint memory of using an aftermarket oil in my Jetta TDI manual and I didn't like it and went back to stock for similar reasons.
Also, I'm curious if anyone has ever put Seafoam or similar in a manual trans to clean it up?? I've never seen anyone mention it.
Thanks for your help and I still follow all the posts on this group as it has certainly saved me over the years, not to mention the files section.
Kent
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Thanks Justin!? I love hearing about your TDI EV exploits and I miss getting all those details from a few years back.? It's still something that I would love to tackle when my '95 I5 gives up the ghost or one of my VR6s drives me too crazy trying to get parts.
Thanks,
Kent
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Interesting stuff. I like hearing about it, thanks.
David
On Tuesday, August 9, 2022 at 06:48:17 PM PDT, Justin Soares <greaseworks@...> wrote:
My next mods on this van will be in the performance dept. and both are ones I have some experience w in this van as well as on other platforms—not that this vans a slouch in anyway! Future perf mods: 11mm injection pump redux and propane fumigation.
this gets into the tech weeds right away so skip the rest of this message if need be. My plan is to put the 11mm injection pump back on there that I pulled off this past winter at a timing belt service interval and replaced w the stock 10mm one, as a test to see if my mpgs would get a decent bump—they did not, no gains noticeable (stock AHU IP has a 10mm plunger; but the decrease in power was noticeable! It had an 11mm IP from a a later tdi eng the ALH w A/T ?modded to fit an AHU eng on there for the last 80k miles and I swapped?it out this past winter for the mpg test.
The other mod I’ve got on the horizon is a LPG fumigation mod and something I’ve played around with on a T3 Vanagon also w a MK3 Tdi eng conversion some years ago (decades now:). That was a nice and relatively easy mod that gave a noticeable power bump as well as a slight (2-3mpg) bump, and I like to think a cleaner burn of the diesel fuel—smelled cleaner anyhow. It involves—brace yourselves—plumbing a line from the propane take to the air intake and introducing lpg into the combustion chamber. “Fumigating” a combustible had lpg into the motor via the intake air. Not something for the faint of heart. Lots more info online about this so do your research for more info. I only know diesels and obviously there are very few diesel EVs in NA. Anyhow I’ll keep the list posted on these mods and remember YMMV ;-)
I’m realizing I just hijacked my my own thread—sorry!
?
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My next mods on this van will be in the performance dept. and both are ones I have some experience w in this van as well as on other platforms—not that this vans a slouch in anyway! Future perf mods: 11mm injection pump redux and propane fumigation.
this gets into the tech weeds right away so skip the rest of this message if need be. My plan is to put the 11mm injection pump back on there that I pulled off this past winter at a timing belt service interval and replaced w the stock 10mm one, as a test to see if my mpgs would get a decent bump—they did not, no gains noticeable (stock AHU IP has a 10mm plunger; but the decrease in power was noticeable! It had an 11mm IP from a a later tdi eng the ALH w A/T ?modded to fit an AHU eng on there for the last 80k miles and I swapped?it out this past winter for the mpg test.
The other mod I’ve got on the horizon is a LPG fumigation mod and something I’ve played around with on a T3 Vanagon also w a MK3 Tdi eng conversion some years ago (decades now:). That was a nice and relatively easy mod that gave a noticeable power bump as well as a slight (2-3mpg) bump, and I like to think a cleaner burn of the diesel fuel—smelled cleaner anyhow. It involves—brace yourselves—plumbing a line from the propane take to the air intake and introducing lpg into the combustion chamber. “Fumigating” a combustible had lpg into the motor via the intake air. Not something for the faint of heart. Lots more info online about this so do your research for more info. I only know diesels and obviously there are very few diesel EVs in NA. Anyhow I’ll keep the list posted on these mods and remember YMMV ;-)
I’m realizing I just hijacked my my own thread—sorry!
?
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Justin Soares