I experienced the same issue, so I disconnected the drivers side actuator power completely from my ¡®97 EVC. I actually prefer it that way. Very very difficult to get locked out :-) Roger
Thanks for your input but this did not solve the problem. I took everything apart today? and the issue seems to be the following.? Once the car is locked by either the passenger?side or the driver side? the key on the driver side can not turn and unlock that door.? . I have to go to the passenger?side and unlock the door on that side.? But that is not all. ?The driver side now has the actuator going up and down. ?I have to now pull the knob on the driverside FORCEFULLY?up? then it stays up and I can now open the driver side door. Any suggestions??????
Hi Domokos, not sure if you resolved your door lock issue, but this is usually the spring inside the door latch mechanism. If the spring breaks, then the weight of the door lock knob is enough to push the knob down and then cause all the other locks to go down.
There is a video of how to make your own spring if you want to give it a try.?
--
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Thanks for your input but this did not solve the problem. I took everything apart today? and the issue seems to be the following.? Once the car is locked by either the passenger?side or the driver side? the key on the driver side can not turn and unlock that door.? . I have to go to the passenger?side and unlock the door on that side.? But that is not all. ?The driver side now has the actuator going up and down. ?I have to now pull the knob on the driverside FORCEFULLY?up? then it stays up and I can now open the driver side door. Any suggestions??????
Hi Domokos, not sure if you resolved your door lock issue, but this is usually the spring inside the door latch mechanism. If the spring breaks, then the weight of the door lock knob is enough to push the knob down and then cause all the other locks to go down.
There is a video of how to make your own spring if you want to give it a try.?
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Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
I have the same issue very infrequently on my 95 EVC, added the lift kit and Bilstein's about 45 years ago, and new drive axels last fall, that's when I noticed the issue arising.
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Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
See on you-tube how to test wheel bearing.? It probably the rear.
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Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
Thanks for all the info and tips:
- nail or rocks in the tire? Unlikely, since the noise is very sensitive to throttle position (and goes away entirely if you are decelerating).
- which side is the noise on? W. Li points out that it may be hard to hear, and fixed the issue by changing out CV joints on both sides.
- Steve points out that having changed the right axle, might make sense to change the left one too so both are the same age.
Therefore, I'm leaning towards changing the left axle too. They are only $100 at Europarts-sd.com so not a large cost. I did the right side myself a few weeks ago and it was a 2-3 hour job (would have been easier with a helper, but with some big pry bars and a bottle jack, was doable solo).
Any thoughts about whether the left axle replacement is easier or harder than right?
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Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
I might just replace the left axle to keep the whole repair maint thing balanced and then eliminate the CV joints once and for all as a possiblity. 
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Re: tires and liftkits (long)
We manufacture and sell a last of lift spacers for these for $90.?
There are no longer shocks available for the T4 Eurovan. So you only need to upgrade if you actually need shocks¡.but not a bad time to do it.
Adjusted properly and you can fit a 225/70/16 which gives you about 45 properly rated tires instead of 5-6 choices.
Lots of wheels between 50-42 offset work great, et42 is the best.?
Cole CaveVan.com
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On Jul 22, 2021, at 10:06 AM, W. Li via groups.io <wli98122@...> wrote:
?We have had a lot of msg's re tire options and lift projects. No question the $2500 combination kit is very effective, looks swell and improves performance. However, there is a cheaper, simpler, and less sophisticated path that leaves the perfomance of this 6400lb beast unimproved (compared to the kit). My personal aim was just to gain an inch clearance to avoid scraping the propane tank. I did not need to improve handling with my "old geezer" driving habits. I do no off-road driving.
When my Michelin 205/65R15's wore out, I went and bought six Nokian WRC3 4-season 205/70R15 van tires load range 102-104 on the Web. So the only change was a higher aspect ratio. They shipped them out free but charged me 10% WA state sales tax. End result was I gained an inch in clearance. The larger diameter tire actually just fit in the OEM carrier frame in the back without any modification. These are studless snow tires that they claim can be run in the summer. I know the tire compound is softer than most, and do not expect to get more than 30K miles out of them, if that. However, where I live in the Northwest we get a lot of rain and slippery roads as well as occasional snow, and I am too lazy to switch to snow tires each winter given that it may not even snow. I figure a softer compound + the different tread pattern gives me a little more adhesion in the wet. Where we go in northern Canada on our road trips, I wanted to carry two full-sized spares. I made up a box that houses the second spare and chock blocks, and it sits behind the passenger seat and doubles as a drink table.
Over all, the speedometer reads 10% off, but the overall handling is unchanged, and the noise level about average.
I offer this option only as a suggestion for those of us that do not wish to go for the full lift kit.
There is no question that the design engineers at VW should have made all the T4's with 16 inch wheels from the very beginning.
W. Li
95 EVC?? 160K miles
Mercer Island, WA
PS:? I have three 15" used steel wheels for an EVC, free for anyone in this group who wants them.? (local pickup)
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Re: tires and liftkits (long)
We have had a lot of msg's re tire options and lift projects. No question the $2500 combination kit is very effective, looks swell and improves performance. However, there is a cheaper, simpler, and less sophisticated path that leaves the perfomance of this 6400lb beast unimproved (compared to the kit). My personal aim was just to gain an inch clearance to avoid scraping the propane tank. I did not need to improve handling with my "old geezer" driving habits. I do no off-road driving.
When my Michelin 205/65R15's wore out, I went and bought six Nokian WRC3 4-season 205/70R15 van tires load range 102-104 on the Web. So the only change was a higher aspect ratio. They shipped them out free but charged me 10% WA state sales tax. End result was I gained an inch in clearance. The larger diameter tire actually just fit in the OEM carrier frame in the back without any modification. These are studless snow tires that they claim can be run in the summer. I know the tire compound is softer than most, and do not expect to get more than 30K miles out of them, if that. However, where I live in the Northwest we get a lot of rain and slippery roads as well as occasional snow, and I am too lazy to switch to snow tires each winter given that it may not even snow. I figure a softer compound + the different tread pattern gives me a little more adhesion in the wet. Where we go in northern Canada on our road trips, I wanted to carry two full-sized spares. I made up a box that houses the second spare and chock blocks, and it sits behind the passenger seat and doubles as a drink table.
Over all, the speedometer reads 10% off, but the overall handling is unchanged, and the noise level about average.
I offer this option only as a suggestion for those of us that do not wish to go for the full lift kit.
There is no question that the design engineers at VW should have made all the T4's with 16 inch wheels from the very beginning.
W. Li
95 EVC?? 160K miles
Mercer Island, WA
PS:? I have three 15" used steel wheels for an EVC, free for anyone in this group who wants them.? (local pickup)
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Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
I had a similar problem, no easy to pin-point right from left sometimes... our ears can be fooled. In my EVC, I heard it from the "right side" ? (I thought). ? But in fact it was coming from BOTH CV joints.? Cured only by having them replace inner and outers on both sides....
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Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
We had a (possibly) similar noise on another vehicle that turned out to be caused by a nail in a front tire. I suspected this possibility from the outset but I was unable to find the nail and neither was the dealership the first and second times I asked them to look (and took a drive with them to demonstrate). Ultimately they found it when doing a winter tire swap. There was never any loss of air pressure. Perhaps you could swap your tires front to rear and see if the location of the sound seems to move. Also, maybe you could do the math to see if the noise occurs once per tire revolution. Good luck!
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Show quoted text
On Jul 21, 2021, at 10:07 PM, Craig <craig.mcclung@...> wrote:
? I know this is a long shot but do you have wheel covers or hubcap things? Pop those off. Ours come loose and start to make various sounds.?
Also maybe the sheet metal shield behind the rotor? But that not be temperature depend.
Curious the source.?
And here in Virginia I find 93 octane at a few places and on recent trip to Maine I found it here and there. On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 9:56 PM Kent Kirkley via <kgkirkley= [email protected]> wrote:
MIchael
Ok
Check your tires for a rock, etc. embedded in the tire on that side of the vehicle.
I was being humorous about the low grade gas, Ha!
Kent
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Diehr < md03@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 8:45 pm
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Help Solve the Mystery!
Kent, good idea, but I'm pretty sure it's not knock: - it happens at Tire speed, not Engine speed. E.g., I can downshift and the noise happens at the same rate.? I'd estimate the tink sounds are happening roughly 10 per second. - this van has 205/60 R16 tires which have a diameter of 25.7", or a circumference of ¦Ð x D = about 81 inches. - at 60mph, the tires are traveling 60 mph * 5280 ft/mile * 12 inches/ft / 3600 seconds/hour = 1056 inches per second / 81 inches per revolution = about 13 revolutions per second. - if it were knock, it would be happening at engine RPM - and even if it were only knocking on 1 cylinder, when driving at 3000 RPM, it would be happening at least 50 times per second. - Also, dear sir, in spite of your suggestion that I am a cheapskate, I run 91 octane gas! :-) In conclusion, I'm pretty sure it's drivetrain-related. Mike p.s. where does one find 93 octane no-ethanol gas?? At an airport? > On Jul 21, 2021, at 6:23 PM, Kent Kirkley via <kgkirkley= [email protected]> wrote: > > Michael > > > "tink. tink, tink"? > Would you say a 'rattling'? > Sound like pre detonation ('knock' is another term) to me. > What grade of fuel are you using? > I'm betting the cheapest 87 grade you can find?? > Pre detonation can damage the engine. > Fill it up with the highest grade fuel you can find, like 93. > Ethonal free is even better. > Dam the cost, you'll have no more "tick, tick, tick", better performance > better miles per gallon. > Kent Kirkley > '97EVC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Diehr < md03@...> > To: [email protected]> Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 7:56 pm > Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Help Solve the Mystery! > > Revisiting an old thread... > > 2000 EVC with about 110K miles. > > Symptom: since purchasing the van at 70K miles, I've had a "tink tink tink" noise that happens under acceleration, is worse after driving a while (e.g. after things have warmed up), varies with the speed of the wheel (not the engine), and also seems worse when the van is heavily loaded. > > Most people have said "CV Joint" and so in 2018 I replaced the right, inner CV joint.? Problem remained. > > In June 2021, I replaced the entire right axle (with both outer and inner CV joints).? Problem remained. > > So, what's left?? The sound definitely seems to be on the right side of the vehicle, but maybe it's from actually coming the left side?? Wheel Bearings?? Half shaft? > > Remanufactured axles are cheap now (under $200) so I could just replace the left side to be prudent. > > > > > > > >> On Apr 30, 2018, at 7:17 PM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] < ev_update@...> wrote: > >> > >> > >> > >> Following this thread with interest - have similar symptoms and replaced the right inner CV joint at 70K miles, but the problem remained, and am now thinking it's the outer CV joint, and am also thinking "replacing the whole axle". > >> > >> It's notable that the sound (a "tink tink tink" sound that only happens on acceleration) is more prominent when the van is heavily loaded.? It also comes on only after a while (as if the CV joint must get hot first). > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>> On Apr 27, 2018, at 7:12 PM, wli98122@... [ev_update] < ev_update@...> wrote: > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> We have had similar symptoms. Had to replace BOTH inner and outer CV joints on both sides. Upon inspection, it was the inner ones that failed due to decay of the lubricant (dry dust) and deep scoring of the runs, whereas the outer joints were fine with nice grease and shiny runs. One thing: all the CV boots were intact, with no cuts or holes in them. Our experience was unusual, since most of the time it is the outer CV joints that fail, due to holes in the boots that let grime and dirt in. This occurred for us around 120K miles. Now have 170K and both are still silent. > >>> > >>> w. Li 95 EVC 5-speed > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> __._,_.___ > >> Posted by: Michael Diehr < md03@...> > >> > >> > >> To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to > >> mailto: ev_update-unsubscribe@...> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> VISIT YOUR GROUP > >> ? Privacy ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use > >> > >> __,_._,___ > > > > > > > >
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Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
I know this is a long shot but do you have wheel covers or hubcap things? Pop those off. Ours come loose and start to make various sounds.?
Also maybe the sheet metal shield behind the rotor? But that not be temperature depend.
Curious the source.?
And here in Virginia I find 93 octane at a few places and on recent trip to Maine I found it here and there.
On Wed, Jul 21, 2021 at 9:56 PM Kent Kirkley via <kgkirkley= [email protected]> wrote:
MIchael
Ok
Check your tires for a rock, etc. embedded in the tire on that side of the vehicle.
I was being humorous about the low grade gas, Ha!
Kent
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Diehr < md03@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 8:45 pm
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Help Solve the Mystery!
Kent, good idea, but I'm pretty sure it's not knock: - it happens at Tire speed, not Engine speed. E.g., I can downshift and the noise happens at the same rate.? I'd estimate the tink sounds are happening roughly 10 per second. - this van has 205/60 R16 tires which have a diameter of 25.7", or a circumference of ¦Ð x D = about 81 inches. - at 60mph, the tires are traveling 60 mph * 5280 ft/mile * 12 inches/ft / 3600 seconds/hour = 1056 inches per second / 81 inches per revolution = about 13 revolutions per second. - if it were knock, it would be happening at engine RPM - and even if it were only knocking on 1 cylinder, when driving at 3000 RPM, it would be happening at least 50 times per second. - Also, dear sir, in spite of your suggestion that I am a cheapskate, I run 91 octane gas! :-) In conclusion, I'm pretty sure it's drivetrain-related. Mike p.s. where does one find 93 octane no-ethanol gas?? At an airport? > On Jul 21, 2021, at 6:23 PM, Kent Kirkley via <kgkirkley= [email protected]> wrote: > > Michael > > > "tink. tink, tink"? > Would you say a 'rattling'? > Sound like pre detonation ('knock' is another term) to me. > What grade of fuel are you using? > I'm betting the cheapest 87 grade you can find?? > Pre detonation can damage the engine. > Fill it up with the highest grade fuel you can find, like 93. > Ethonal free is even better. > Dam the cost, you'll have no more "tick, tick, tick", better performance > better miles per gallon. > Kent Kirkley > '97EVC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Diehr < md03@...> > To: [email protected]> Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 7:56 pm > Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Help Solve the Mystery! > > Revisiting an old thread... > > 2000 EVC with about 110K miles. > > Symptom: since purchasing the van at 70K miles, I've had a "tink tink tink" noise that happens under acceleration, is worse after driving a while (e.g. after things have warmed up), varies with the speed of the wheel (not the engine), and also seems worse when the van is heavily loaded. > > Most people have said "CV Joint" and so in 2018 I replaced the right, inner CV joint.? Problem remained. > > In June 2021, I replaced the entire right axle (with both outer and inner CV joints).? Problem remained. > > So, what's left?? The sound definitely seems to be on the right side of the vehicle, but maybe it's from actually coming the left side?? Wheel Bearings?? Half shaft? > > Remanufactured axles are cheap now (under $200) so I could just replace the left side to be prudent. > > > > > > > >> On Apr 30, 2018, at 7:17 PM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] < ev_update@...> wrote: > >> > >> > >> > >> Following this thread with interest - have similar symptoms and replaced the right inner CV joint at 70K miles, but the problem remained, and am now thinking it's the outer CV joint, and am also thinking "replacing the whole axle". > >> > >> It's notable that the sound (a "tink tink tink" sound that only happens on acceleration) is more prominent when the van is heavily loaded.? It also comes on only after a while (as if the CV joint must get hot first). > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>> On Apr 27, 2018, at 7:12 PM, wli98122@... [ev_update] < ev_update@...> wrote: > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> We have had similar symptoms. Had to replace BOTH inner and outer CV joints on both sides. Upon inspection, it was the inner ones that failed due to decay of the lubricant (dry dust) and deep scoring of the runs, whereas the outer joints were fine with nice grease and shiny runs. One thing: all the CV boots were intact, with no cuts or holes in them. Our experience was unusual, since most of the time it is the outer CV joints that fail, due to holes in the boots that let grime and dirt in. This occurred for us around 120K miles. Now have 170K and both are still silent. > >>> > >>> w. Li 95 EVC 5-speed > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> __._,_.___ > >> Posted by: Michael Diehr < md03@...> > >> > >> > >> To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to > >> mailto: ev_update-unsubscribe@...> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> VISIT YOUR GROUP > >> ? Privacy ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use > >> > >> __,_._,___ > > > > > > > >
|
Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
MIchael
Ok
Check your tires for a rock, etc. embedded in the tire on that side of the vehicle.
I was being humorous about the low grade gas, Ha!
Kent
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Diehr <md03@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 8:45 pm
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Help Solve the Mystery!
Kent, good idea, but I'm pretty sure it's not knock: - it happens at Tire speed, not Engine speed. E.g., I can downshift and the noise happens at the same rate.? I'd estimate the tink sounds are happening roughly 10 per second. - this van has 205/60 R16 tires which have a diameter of 25.7", or a circumference of ¦Ð x D = about 81 inches. - at 60mph, the tires are traveling 60 mph * 5280 ft/mile * 12 inches/ft / 3600 seconds/hour = 1056 inches per second / 81 inches per revolution = about 13 revolutions per second. - if it were knock, it would be happening at engine RPM - and even if it were only knocking on 1 cylinder, when driving at 3000 RPM, it would be happening at least 50 times per second. - Also, dear sir, in spite of your suggestion that I am a cheapskate, I run 91 octane gas! :-) In conclusion, I'm pretty sure it's drivetrain-related. Mike p.s. where does one find 93 octane no-ethanol gas?? At an airport? > On Jul 21, 2021, at 6:23 PM, Kent Kirkley via groups.io <kgkirkley= [email protected]> wrote: > > Michael > > > "tink. tink, tink"? > Would you say a 'rattling'? > Sound like pre detonation ('knock' is another term) to me. > What grade of fuel are you using? > I'm betting the cheapest 87 grade you can find?? > Pre detonation can damage the engine. > Fill it up with the highest grade fuel you can find, like 93. > Ethonal free is even better. > Dam the cost, you'll have no more "tick, tick, tick", better performance > better miles per gallon. > Kent Kirkley > '97EVC > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael Diehr < md03@...> > To: [email protected]> Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 7:56 pm > Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Help Solve the Mystery! > > Revisiting an old thread... > > 2000 EVC with about 110K miles. > > Symptom: since purchasing the van at 70K miles, I've had a "tink tink tink" noise that happens under acceleration, is worse after driving a while (e.g. after things have warmed up), varies with the speed of the wheel (not the engine), and also seems worse when the van is heavily loaded. > > Most people have said "CV Joint" and so in 2018 I replaced the right, inner CV joint.? Problem remained. > > In June 2021, I replaced the entire right axle (with both outer and inner CV joints).? Problem remained. > > So, what's left?? The sound definitely seems to be on the right side of the vehicle, but maybe it's from actually coming the left side?? Wheel Bearings?? Half shaft? > > Remanufactured axles are cheap now (under $200) so I could just replace the left side to be prudent. > > > > > > > >> On Apr 30, 2018, at 7:17 PM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] < ev_update@...> wrote: > >> > >> > >> > >> Following this thread with interest - have similar symptoms and replaced the right inner CV joint at 70K miles, but the problem remained, and am now thinking it's the outer CV joint, and am also thinking "replacing the whole axle". > >> > >> It's notable that the sound (a "tink tink tink" sound that only happens on acceleration) is more prominent when the van is heavily loaded.? It also comes on only after a while (as if the CV joint must get hot first). > >> > >> > >> > >> > >>> On Apr 27, 2018, at 7:12 PM, wli98122@... [ev_update] < ev_update@...> wrote: > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> We have had similar symptoms. Had to replace BOTH inner and outer CV joints on both sides. Upon inspection, it was the inner ones that failed due to decay of the lubricant (dry dust) and deep scoring of the runs, whereas the outer joints were fine with nice grease and shiny runs. One thing: all the CV boots were intact, with no cuts or holes in them. Our experience was unusual, since most of the time it is the outer CV joints that fail, due to holes in the boots that let grime and dirt in. This occurred for us around 120K miles. Now have 170K and both are still silent. > >>> > >>> w. Li 95 EVC 5-speed > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> __._,_.___ > >> Posted by: Michael Diehr < md03@...> > >> > >> > >> To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to > >> mailto: ev_update-unsubscribe@...> >> > >> > >> > >> > >> VISIT YOUR GROUP > >> ? Privacy ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use > >> > >> __,_._,___ > > > > > > > >
|
Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
Kent, good idea, but I'm pretty sure it's not knock:
- it happens at Tire speed, not Engine speed. E.g., I can downshift and the noise happens at the same rate. I'd estimate the tink sounds are happening roughly 10 per second.
- this van has 205/60 R16 tires which have a diameter of 25.7", or a circumference of ¦Ð x D = about 81 inches.
- at 60mph, the tires are traveling 60 mph * 5280 ft/mile * 12 inches/ft / 3600 seconds/hour = 1056 inches per second / 81 inches per revolution = about 13 revolutions per second.
- if it were knock, it would be happening at engine RPM - and even if it were only knocking on 1 cylinder, when driving at 3000 RPM, it would be happening at least 50 times per second.
- Also, dear sir, in spite of your suggestion that I am a cheapskate, I run 91 octane gas! :-)
In conclusion, I'm pretty sure it's drivetrain-related.
Mike
p.s. where does one find 93 octane no-ethanol gas? At an airport?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 21, 2021, at 6:23 PM, Kent Kirkley via groups.io <kgkirkley@...> wrote:
Michael
"tink. tink, tink"?
Would you say a 'rattling'?
Sound like pre detonation ('knock' is another term) to me.
What grade of fuel are you using?
I'm betting the cheapest 87 grade you can find??
Pre detonation can damage the engine.
Fill it up with the highest grade fuel you can find, like 93.
Ethonal free is even better.
Dam the cost, you'll have no more "tick, tick, tick", better performance
better miles per gallon.
Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Diehr <md03@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 7:56 pm
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Help Solve the Mystery!
Revisiting an old thread...
2000 EVC with about 110K miles.
Symptom: since purchasing the van at 70K miles, I've had a "tink tink tink" noise that happens under acceleration, is worse after driving a while (e.g. after things have warmed up), varies with the speed of the wheel (not the engine), and also seems worse when the van is heavily loaded.
Most people have said "CV Joint" and so in 2018 I replaced the right, inner CV joint. Problem remained.
In June 2021, I replaced the entire right axle (with both outer and inner CV joints). Problem remained.
So, what's left? The sound definitely seems to be on the right side of the vehicle, but maybe it's from actually coming the left side? Wheel Bearings? Half shaft?
Remanufactured axles are cheap now (under $200) so I could just replace the left side to be prudent.
On Apr 30, 2018, at 7:17 PM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote:
Following this thread with interest - have similar symptoms and replaced the right inner CV joint at 70K miles, but the problem remained, and am now thinking it's the outer CV joint, and am also thinking "replacing the whole axle".
It's notable that the sound (a "tink tink tink" sound that only happens on acceleration) is more prominent when the van is heavily loaded. It also comes on only after a while (as if the CV joint must get hot first).
On Apr 27, 2018, at 7:12 PM, wli98122@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote:
We have had similar symptoms. Had to replace BOTH inner and outer CV joints on both sides. Upon inspection, it was the inner ones that failed due to decay of the lubricant (dry dust) and deep scoring of the runs, whereas the outer joints were fine with nice grease and shiny runs. One thing: all the CV boots were intact, with no cuts or holes in them. Our experience was unusual, since most of the time it is the outer CV joints that fail, due to holes in the boots that let grime and dirt in. This occurred for us around 120K miles. Now have 170K and both are still silent.
w. Li 95 EVC 5-speed
__._,_.___
Posted by: Michael Diehr <md03@...>
To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to
mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@...
VISIT YOUR GROUP
? Privacy ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use
__,_._,___
|
Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
Michael
"tink. tink, tink"?
Would you say a 'rattling'?
Sound like pre detonation ('knock' is another term) to me.
What grade of fuel are you using?
I'm betting the cheapest 87 grade you can find??
Pre detonation can damage the engine.
Fill it up with the highest grade fuel you can find, like 93.
Ethonal free is even better.
Dam the cost, you'll have no more "tick, tick, tick", better performance
better miles per gallon.
Kent Kirkley
'97EVC
-----Original Message-----
From: Michael Diehr <md03@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Wed, Jul 21, 2021 7:56 pm
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] Help Solve the Mystery!
Revisiting an old thread...
2000 EVC with about 110K miles.
Symptom: since purchasing the van at 70K miles, I've had a "tink tink tink" noise that happens under acceleration, is worse after driving a while (e.g. after things have warmed up), varies with the speed of the wheel (not the engine), and also seems worse when the van is heavily loaded.
Most people have said "CV Joint" and so in 2018 I replaced the right, inner CV joint.? Problem remained.
In June 2021, I replaced the entire right axle (with both outer and inner CV joints).? Problem remained.
So, what's left?? The sound definitely seems to be on the right side of the vehicle, but maybe it's from actually coming the left side?? Wheel Bearings?? Half shaft?
Remanufactured axles are cheap now (under $200) so I could just replace the left side to be prudent.
>
>>
>>
>>
>> Following this thread with interest - have similar symptoms and replaced the right inner CV joint at 70K miles, but the problem remained, and am now thinking it's the outer CV joint, and am also thinking "replacing the whole axle".?
>>
>> It's notable that the sound (a "tink tink tink" sound that only happens on acceleration) is more prominent when the van is heavily loaded.? It also comes on only after a while (as if the CV joint must get hot first).
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> We have had similar symptoms. Had to replace BOTH inner and outer CV joints on both sides. Upon inspection, it was the inner ones that failed due to decay of the lubricant (dry dust) and deep scoring of the runs, whereas the outer joints were fine with nice grease and shiny runs. One thing: all the CV boots were intact, with no cuts or holes in them. Our experience was unusual, since most of the time it is the outer CV joints that fail, due to holes in the boots that let grime and dirt in. This occurred for us around 120K miles. Now have 170K and both are still silent.
>>>
>>> w. Li 95 EVC 5-speed
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> __._,_.___
>>
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> VISIT YOUR GROUP
>> ? Privacy ? Unsubscribe ? Terms of Use
>>
>> __,_._,___
>
|
Re: Help Solve the Mystery!
Revisiting an old thread...
2000 EVC with about 110K miles.
Symptom: since purchasing the van at 70K miles, I've had a "tink tink tink" noise that happens under acceleration, is worse after driving a while (e.g. after things have warmed up), varies with the speed of the wheel (not the engine), and also seems worse when the van is heavily loaded.
Most people have said "CV Joint" and so in 2018 I replaced the right, inner CV joint. Problem remained.
In June 2021, I replaced the entire right axle (with both outer and inner CV joints). Problem remained.
So, what's left? The sound definitely seems to be on the right side of the vehicle, but maybe it's from actually coming the left side? Wheel Bearings? Half shaft?
Remanufactured axles are cheap now (under $200) so I could just replace the left side to be prudent.
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On Apr 30, 2018, at 7:17 PM, Michael Diehr md03@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote:
Following this thread with interest - have similar symptoms and replaced the right inner CV joint at 70K miles, but the problem remained, and am now thinking it's the outer CV joint, and am also thinking "replacing the whole axle".
It's notable that the sound (a "tink tink tink" sound that only happens on acceleration) is more prominent when the van is heavily loaded. It also comes on only after a while (as if the CV joint must get hot first).
On Apr 27, 2018, at 7:12 PM, wli98122@... [ev_update] <ev_update@...> wrote:
We have had similar symptoms. Had to replace BOTH inner and outer CV joints on both sides. Upon inspection, it was the inner ones that failed due to decay of the lubricant (dry dust) and deep scoring of the runs, whereas the outer joints were fine with nice grease and shiny runs. One thing: all the CV boots were intact, with no cuts or holes in them. Our experience was unusual, since most of the time it is the outer CV joints that fail, due to holes in the boots that let grime and dirt in. This occurred for us around 120K miles. Now have 170K and both are still silent.
w. Li 95 EVC 5-speed
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Re: Mechanic for 01 EV WK in Chicago?
Thanks Droppin bombs and Spencer.
Spencer- I contacted Dan at Import Service and I will be leaving the van with him for as long as he needs to diagnose. Really nice on the phone. I also thought I might have him install a new main battery that I may or may not supply. I was going to go with and Interstate?MT-47/H5 Group H5 until I read that the cables might be to short??? Someone also said they got a Costco battery called a 24F???
Droppin- Wow- those photos are going to keep me up at night.
Either way, just trying to keep my ev wk in good shape. It only has gone out for camping and road trips. 20 years old and has less than 82000 miles on odometer!
JL
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We installed a Pioneer AH-3300NEX a few years ago and it fits perfectly (2¡± Single DIN form factor, that is the key to fitting without modification) and has a large screen that folds out from the unit when you want to see a big screen (can be operated without extending?the screen). ?Has wired CarPlay, would love wireless CarPlay as well. ?It is replaced by the AVH-3500NEX which the Pioneer site says is temporarily sold out (like many things due to covid shortages) and lists for $550. ?I ordered a USB extension cable with a panel mount USB female connector which fits perfectly in one of the blank switch plates next to the unit. Supports a rear view camera but I never got around to installing one.
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Re: Problem with my charging system ???
Hi Yves, GoWesty -?
Apologies, it¡¯s under ¡°battery isolator solenoid¡±.? Best, Alex
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On Jul 17, 2021, at 5:19 PM, Yves Desilets via < ydesilets@...> wrote:
Alex,
Where did you buy your new solenoid for charging the batteries ?
Yves
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I don't think it does Apple Play (I've never used it, so don't know what it needs to work). But I have a Dual XDVD600 radio/CD/DVD player with bluetooth in my camper. It is a standard-radio size, and so should fit in the dash like the standard radio.
The cute trick is that it has a 7" screen which "hides" inside when it's not in use. In use, it slides out like a CD drawer, then flips up vertically.
It also has a removable front panel, which doubles as a remote. With the front panel removed, the radio just presents a "dead front" so as not to be a target for thieves.
I imagine there must be other models that have similar features.
Hope this helps,
Lee Hart
--
We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for
the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity.
-- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes")
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Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
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Thanks for the great info. Who did the installation? ?Where did the rear heater controls go? Thanks?
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On Jul 17, 2021, at 10:59 PM, kta95409 <kaldrich@...> wrote: ?Thanks for all the information! Much appreciated.
Kate
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Craig
Glenn Blanc
Lee Hart