开云体育

Chuck,
I totally concur with Beaumont on this.? The additional advantage of this over a standard automobile policy is that it also carries with it $5000 worth of insurance on the contents of the vehicle (it is a "home" after all).? Further, this coverage and the comprehensive are valid in Mexico which is significant for Ann and I as we travel to central Mexico with some frequency (Mexican liability is still required, buy at the border).? Previously we would purchase liability and comprehensive at Sanbornes for around $260 for two weeks.? Now we can get by with liability only for about $75.
John

"Vance, Beaumont W." wrote:

Well Chuck, I knew exactly what I was talking about and that is good enough
for me ;-)

Allstate offers auto insurance (collision, theft, the standard stuff) for
$500/year. You also get contents coverage with the policy. It is about 45%
of what a regular auto policy costs. My agent (and a very close friend) is
Ken Canada, JD? 303-277-9120. He is a very good guy and not only has his law
degree, but was an adjuster for a long time. He knows his stuff.

-----Original Message-----
From: Charles Bragg [mailto:cgbragg@...]
Sent: Monday, November 08, 1999 10:30 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: New owner; extended warranty question

At 09:43 AM 11/08/1999 -0700, Beaumont wrote:
>The absolutely best coverage for the EVC (campers only). They classify it
as
>an RV and charge $500/year. My buddy is an agent if anyone interested.

??????? Beaumont, such an intriguing message, but *what* is this coverage?
Who are "they"? I'm definitely interested.

??????? -- Chuck
========
Chuck Bragg, Santa Monica Bay Audubon

cgbragg@...
fax: 209-671-6396
========

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mailto:jwwaterman@...

John Waterman
Parker,CO
?

<The next 2 avenues: cold-start valve and coolant leaks. I'm waiting to
<see if the thing has sucked any coolant since the tune-up on Monday. If
<it does, I'll ask them to do an 'engine-running' pressure test to see if
<there's an internal leak.

Mine only has this problem when it is hot, and when it does start it has a
strong smell of hydrocarbons. A malfunctioning cold start injector would
cause it to flood, and it would smell rich. And mine has never used any
coolant at all.

I looked in the Bentley manual to become familiar with the way the fuel
system is supposed to work.
The air intake temp sensor is not monitored by the on board diagnostics. If
it has a dead spot it may cause this at certain temperatures. Another
possibility is the fuel pressure regulator. It also controls the residual
pressure in the fuel system after you shut off the car. It is made out of
plastic, and may be adversely effected by temp. The fuel pump is turned on
by the computer. When you turn on the key it goes on for a certain period
of time. It has no pressure feedback, so if the fuel pressure is too low, as
a result of a pressure regulator defect, there will be insufficient pressure
in the fuel rail, and the car will not start. Turn the key twice, the pump
cycles twice, and the fuel pressure is sufficient to start the car. I
haven't checked any of this, because it requires disconnecting the plastic
fuel line. And I'm paranoid about a fire, and hard starting isn't that big
of a problem yet. I also found a note in the manual that said any clamps
that are removed should be replaced with screwed and locking clamps. I plan
on testing all this after I replace the lines with steel pipes.

Other possibilities are the manifold pressure transducer,(although this is
monitored by the OBD), ,an intermittent vacuum leak, fuel tank vacuum, etc.
In any case it is fairly repeatable and the guys at VW should be able to
hook up an ignition scope, an exhaust gas analyzer, vacuum gauge, and fuel
pressure gauge. To determine exactly what is causing this, and fix it right
the first time.

Remember don't pay for swaptronics, when the mechanic doesn't know what he's
doing. And you shouldn't pay for their time either, if it isn't fixed. Ask
them to explain how it works, and why he thinks replacing it would help.
Then ask him how he would test it, every part on this car is functionally
testable to some level.
Let me know what it ends up being.

Gregg,

thanks for taking the time to jot down a few lines on each beer
project. When I get done, I'll try and document it to help the next
person...

Jerry

gbnvi-@... wrote:
original article:

It took about 10 hours-the first time. The timing belt subsequently
slipped a tooth (it turns out the distributor rotor and cap went bad
simultaneously, and I think a misfire caused the slip), and so I had

to

redo most of the job, other than the water pump, thermostat and

coolant

. It took about 4 hours the second time. The best way to get the upper
timing belt cover off is to unclamp the throttlebody boot and move it
out of the way. I also needed to unbolt a clamp for an a/c line that
required removing the air filter housing.

I changed the coolant, but did not flush it out. I needed to unclamp
most every hose on the bottom of the engine to drain all of the
coolant. It looked very clean. I replaced the thermostat at the same
time. It did not come with a new gasket, so buy that separately. I of
course replaced the serpentine belt at the same time, as well as oil
filter. I ordered all of the parts from Europarts (an excellent

vendor)

619 451-0020, at substantial savings from the dealer. All of the parts
were German. The two special tools you can mail order from Zelenda
(dealer does not carry) at 800 221 0126. Tool numbers are 3248a and
3299. Wouldn't dream of doing the job without them. As I mentioned in
other email, cam sprocket was impossible to remove, resulting in the
need to bend the rear timing belt cover, which subsequently had to be
wired away from the sprocket at top of engine. Not pretty, but it
works. One of the idler pulleys was a puzzle to remove-once a center
bolt (very thin) is removed, the pulley stays on. I stuck a pointed

pry

bar in the middle and wiggled it off. Hammer it back in very carefully
to press it in, making sure it is aligned. The bolt is so thin, that

if

you tried to align the pulley by torquing it down, it would surely

bend

or strip out.

I have also changed both outside CV joint boots-one cracked around
75kmiles, the other at 85kmiles. Joints were fine. Pressing joint off
was not fun-even with neighbor's snap-on puller. First boot I did with
out the special tool 3250 support frames, second time I bought the
frames after the miserable first time, and was very glad I did. They
support the suspension, allowing clearance to do the work. This job is
an excellent time to replace front brake pads (which I have now done 3
times-once due to non-factory pads. Do not recommend anything but
dealer pads). I have flushed brake fluid-no big deal.

Due to the engine running very poorly after fixing the slipped timing
belt, I noticed that one plug was not getting fired-due to bad rotor
and cap. I also replaced spark plugs with the new 4 prong platinums.

$6

each, but WELL worth it-a very noticeable power improvement resulted
from them. The spark plug wire resistance was fine-fortunately since
they are VERY expensive.

I have not flushed/drained AT fluid-it's on the very long list of
delay-able items.

Sorry, no pictures.

Good luck! Most jobs on the Eurovan are very hard the first time, but
much better once you get used to it. Not for the mechanically
faint-of-heart. A 3/8 air rachet makes life much easier, especially

for

removing the bottom pan.
-Gregg Burgess


sana-@... wrote:
original article:

I'm forever getting ready to do this as well. Can you tell us how

long

it took to do this (did you do anything else besides replace the

timing

belt and water pump?). Did you take any pictures? I'm hoping to

talk

the wife into taking a few so I can document it all, thought it

might

prove useful for others later.

Since you were game for this project, have you by chance flushed

your

coolant or brake fluid... or changed the AT filter and fluid? If,

so

I'd be interested in hearing how they went.


Jerry

gbnvi-@... wrote:
original article:

I just replaced my timing belt on my 93ev myself-not a fun job
(although faster once you've done it once) at 88kmiles. The

serpentine

belt showed very significant cracking; the timing belt showed no
appreciable wear. I foolishly cranked the engine by hand while the

cam

was at top dead center-a sure prescription for disaster if there

was

an

interference problem. Nothing bad happened. However, the EV uses
hydraulic valve lifters, and since there was no oil pressure, the
valves probably provided little "resistance", and thus were not
damaged. While under acceleration with high pressure on the

adjuster,

interference probably can happen and cause damage.

btw, I bought the 2 VW tools from Zelenda: the vibration damper

holder

and the serpentine tensioner pulley tool. The ~$140 investment was

very

well worth it, as I used both tools many times during the job. I

can't

imagine trying to do it with out them.

I replaced the water pump at the same time, as it was going bad

(faint

grinding noise while running). That is the worst part of the job,

as

it

requires removal or bending up of the back timing belt cover. I

bent

the cover, and in bending it back, it now rubbed the camshaft

pulley.

I

had to wire it with aircraft safety wire to prevent the rubbing. I

was

unable to remove the camshaft pulley (the correct way to do the

job)

to

get the plate out, even with a top of the line snap-on puller.

Given the complexity of the job, I would either recommend either

DIY

if

you're mechanically competent, or take it to a VW dealer with real

EV

experience. Even with the right tools, it is a long job, and I'm

sure

the labor, expecially for the water pump, is expensive.

ltves-@... wrote:
original article:

In a message dated 9/8/99 3:35:41 PM, pjansen@...

writes:

<<Even though everyone says NO, I can assure you it CAN cause

damage.

Such as

5 exhaust valves and one intake valve in my case. $2200, thank

you

very

much. Definitely worth replacing it at the specified interval,

as I

now

have learned.>>

What is the specified interval? There is no mention of it in the

owner's

manual except to "check the condition of the belt" at something

like

60,000

miles. I asked the FLVWD about replacing the timing belt at

70,000

miles and

they said to not worry about it. They said it will go for more

than

100,000

miles, and if it does break, nothing will be damaged. I've had

timing belts

in other VWs break and nothing happen, but they were not EVs

which

are a

different bird altogether. . .

Todd

It took about 10 hours-the first time. The timing belt subsequently
slipped a tooth (it turns out the distributor rotor and cap went bad
simultaneously, and I think a misfire caused the slip), and so I had to
redo most of the job, other than the water pump, thermostat and coolant
. It took about 4 hours the second time. The best way to get the upper
timing belt cover off is to unclamp the throttlebody boot and move it
out of the way. I also needed to unbolt a clamp for an a/c line that
required removing the air filter housing.

I changed the coolant, but did not flush it out. I needed to unclamp
most every hose on the bottom of the engine to drain all of the
coolant. It looked very clean. I replaced the thermostat at the same
time. It did not come with a new gasket, so buy that separately. I of
course replaced the serpentine belt at the same time, as well as oil
filter. I ordered all of the parts from Europarts (an excellent vendor)
619 451-0020, at substantial savings from the dealer. All of the parts
were German. The two special tools you can mail order from Zelenda
(dealer does not carry) at 800 221 0126. Tool numbers are 3248a and
3299. Wouldn't dream of doing the job without them. As I mentioned in
other email, cam sprocket was impossible to remove, resulting in the
need to bend the rear timing belt cover, which subsequently had to be
wired away from the sprocket at top of engine. Not pretty, but it
works. One of the idler pulleys was a puzzle to remove-once a center
bolt (very thin) is removed, the pulley stays on. I stuck a pointed pry
bar in the middle and wiggled it off. Hammer it back in very carefully
to press it in, making sure it is aligned. The bolt is so thin, that if
you tried to align the pulley by torquing it down, it would surely bend
or strip out.

I have also changed both outside CV joint boots-one cracked around
75kmiles, the other at 85kmiles. Joints were fine. Pressing joint off
was not fun-even with neighbor's snap-on puller. First boot I did with
out the special tool 3250 support frames, second time I bought the
frames after the miserable first time, and was very glad I did. They
support the suspension, allowing clearance to do the work. This job is
an excellent time to replace front brake pads (which I have now done 3
times-once due to non-factory pads. Do not recommend anything but
dealer pads). I have flushed brake fluid-no big deal.

Due to the engine running very poorly after fixing the slipped timing
belt, I noticed that one plug was not getting fired-due to bad rotor
and cap. I also replaced spark plugs with the new 4 prong platinums. $6
each, but WELL worth it-a very noticeable power improvement resulted
from them. The spark plug wire resistance was fine-fortunately since
they are VERY expensive.

I have not flushed/drained AT fluid-it's on the very long list of
delay-able items.

Sorry, no pictures.

Good luck! Most jobs on the Eurovan are very hard the first time, but
much better once you get used to it. Not for the mechanically
faint-of-heart. A 3/8 air rachet makes life much easier, especially for
removing the bottom pan.
-Gregg Burgess


sana-@... wrote:
original article:

I'm forever getting ready to do this as well. Can you tell us how

long

it took to do this (did you do anything else besides replace the

timing

belt and water pump?). Did you take any pictures? I'm hoping to talk
the wife into taking a few so I can document it all, thought it might
prove useful for others later.

Since you were game for this project, have you by chance flushed your
coolant or brake fluid... or changed the AT filter and fluid? If, so
I'd be interested in hearing how they went.


Jerry

gbnvi-@... wrote:
original article:

I just replaced my timing belt on my 93ev myself-not a fun job
(although faster once you've done it once) at 88kmiles. The

serpentine

belt showed very significant cracking; the timing belt showed no
appreciable wear. I foolishly cranked the engine by hand while the

cam

was at top dead center-a sure prescription for disaster if there was

an

interference problem. Nothing bad happened. However, the EV uses
hydraulic valve lifters, and since there was no oil pressure, the
valves probably provided little "resistance", and thus were not
damaged. While under acceleration with high pressure on the

adjuster,

interference probably can happen and cause damage.

btw, I bought the 2 VW tools from Zelenda: the vibration damper

holder

and the serpentine tensioner pulley tool. The ~$140 investment was

very

well worth it, as I used both tools many times during the job. I

can't

imagine trying to do it with out them.

I replaced the water pump at the same time, as it was going bad

(faint

grinding noise while running). That is the worst part of the job, as

it

requires removal or bending up of the back timing belt cover. I bent
the cover, and in bending it back, it now rubbed the camshaft

pulley.

I

had to wire it with aircraft safety wire to prevent the rubbing. I

was

unable to remove the camshaft pulley (the correct way to do the job)

to

get the plate out, even with a top of the line snap-on puller.

Given the complexity of the job, I would either recommend either DIY

if

you're mechanically competent, or take it to a VW dealer with real

EV

experience. Even with the right tools, it is a long job, and I'm

sure

the labor, expecially for the water pump, is expensive.

ltves-@... wrote:
original article:

In a message dated 9/8/99 3:35:41 PM, pjansen@...

writes:

<<Even though everyone says NO, I can assure you it CAN cause

damage.

Such as

5 exhaust valves and one intake valve in my case. $2200, thank

you

very

much. Definitely worth replacing it at the specified interval,

as I

now

have learned.>>

What is the specified interval? There is no mention of it in the

owner's

manual except to "check the condition of the belt" at something

like

60,000

miles. I asked the FLVWD about replacing the timing belt at 70,000

miles and

they said to not worry about it. They said it will go for more

than

100,000

miles, and if it does break, nothing will be damaged. I've had

timing belts

in other VWs break and nothing happen, but they were not EVs which

are a

different bird altogether. . .

Todd

I found a British workshop manual for T-4 Transporters at Amazon.co.UK
site.
Just search for T-4 Transporter.
It runs 21 GBP for it and shipping.
Produced by Brooklands Books in the UK, I'll write and give a review as
to whether it's worth a damn.
Just rolling the dice.
Scott

The Bus Depot <> has them for US$130

Moe Walters

Today I spoke with my contact at VWoA and was informed that the main
wire harness in the engine compartment would probably have to be
specially made and would take 6 to 8 weeks.

At that point I decided it was time to shift gears, and came to the
point. I told her that prior to the fire, the EV was "bullet proof" ,
if I wanted to go on a road trip, all I had to do was to check the oil,
the tires, and fill it with gas and go. Given the fire damage, I
suspect that there will be some component in the engine compartment
that was weakened by fire, and I am no longer convinced that once
repaired, my EV would again be "bullet proof". So I asked if VW would
be willing to do something to replace my EV with a left-over or demo
'99 or something similar.

She said it was possible, but would now have to talk to someone who
deals with "customer assistance", ie. buying back lemons or damaged
vehicles. I was told to look for a new or left-over EV and get a price.
In the meantime she would find out how much VW is willing to go toward
the purchase of a new van.

We'll see what happens next. Anyone know if there are any more 99
left-overs out there? Maybe if VW offer is good enough, maybe I can
offer a reward for the
99 left over.


Ric

Gregg,
A wealth of information for DIYers like myself plus it is encouraging to know
these jobs are doable with a little time and patience. In the end you have
the satisfaction of knowing exactly how the job was done and the knowledge to
do it even better next time. Thanks for all the tips. I am printing this
for future reference.
Ron
'93 EV MV 5 speed
closing in on 90k

Chris:

We just had the van tuned up at the dealer (96 000 maintenance), complete
with new sparks (Champ. 101-000-029 AA). No improvement in starting it,
in fact I had to bear the embarrassment of sitting and trying it 3
(that's right, three) times in a parking lot today.

In my 1984 Vanagon I think I had to try more than once about three times
in three years. (whine, whine, whine.)

The next 2 avenues: cold-start valve and coolant leaks. I'm waiting to
see if the thing has sucked any coolant since the tune-up on Monday. If
it does, I'll ask them to do an 'engine-running' pressure test to see if
there's an internal leak.

I'll admit I had one of those in my Vanagon. Not a good scene.

As for a misfire in the 3000 rpm range, I have to admit that with all the
automatic gear-changing going on, I don't have the same feedback I'm used
to from a manual tranny. Like the one in my Vanagon. So I don't know if
there's anything funny going on.

Honest, I don't miss my Vanagon.

Marcus Elia
Peterborough, ON
dela@...
'95 EV GLS

Thanks for the info, your problem was a little different, although, in the
general area. I removed the housing and saw that the cable was disconnected
from the controller. I then had to remove the complete control mechanism. I
then reconnected the cable to the control mechanism. It took about an 1 1/2
hours and only one beer & just a few cuss words!
Again, thanks for responding.
SB

ozcolema-@... wrote:
original article:

Hi Folks,

I'm after a Bently Eurovan Book, $180 at VW Dealer. Anybody know

where I can get one used or cheaper?

I recall a few weeks ago someone posted they had some for sale for
about CDN$180.That's about USD $120.

Can't find the post, but my files show their e-mail as:

roseland@...

FWIW, my dealer sold me one new for CDN $ 189.(of course he had one in
stock.)


Frank.

I had the same problem on my '97 EVC. Dial spun but nothing happened.
Couldn't get hot air on cold feet. In my case, the housing for the
cable had come unhitched. Instead of the housing remaining fixed and
the cable operating the flap which controls air flow, the flap remained
fixed and the cable housing moved (doing nothing). During this the
cable end also came off the flap.

To remedy, I used a hose clamp to clamp the unhitched cable housing to
another right next to it. Now the housing stays in one place and the
cable operates the flap. No problems since.

If this sounds like your problem. Remove the bottom of the console in
front of the shifter. Check to make sure flap moves freely (poke with
finger). If so, look up under dash where dials are and find the black
cable housing. See if the one leading to the 'director' dial is
unhitched at the end. If so, cable tie, duct tape, hose clamp, etc to
a fixed object...



bookerj81-@... wrote:
original article:

Good afternoon to all,
Wondering if anyone has had a similar problem and if they know of a
correction, other than taking camper to dealer...
This is the second incident with this switch that is located on the

front

dash. First time (July 98) I took it to the dealer and it cost $120

to have

fixed.
The problem is that I had turn the control to have air blow up on

the

windshield to clean it off (defroster setting), I then turn the

control to

have the air blow on my face/feet nothing happened, it's like

something

becomes "unhitched". The control will work, again only on the

windshield or

feet options. I have taken the front panel off or at least as much as

I could

but I couldn't reach the part that controls the various options on

this

control. Any ideas or suggestions.
Thanks In Advance
Sherril Booker

I have the Bosch 4 electrode jobs in my 89 jetta and the did help the car it
feels more powerful and gets a little better gas mileage my car also has
189,000 miles on it
chris

Thanks for the info.
John

That is a good idea, a lot better than to mount that rack on fiberglass,
which seams to be most common solution. It's maybe a little more
complicated, but way more rigid. Those gutters should work well for you. I
installed a set of regular (short) gutters on my other car (I did not want
to drill Eurovan's body, so I solve that problem another way in my Eurovan
using some existing holes). Those gutters very rigid and work really well on
that other car. They definitely can carry more load than the rack itself (I
have Thule, but it's basically the same) and most important that they are
mounted on something rigid.


At 04:35 PM 11/8/99 -0800, you wrote:

Not wishing to drill the fiberglass poptop and unable to obtain full
length gutters from Yakima I am waiting delivery of full length gutters
from <Sklashley@...> who I believe is obtaining them from Germany.
My understanding is that they fit between the poptop seal and the body
seam just above the windows and doors. My plan is to use the removable
Yakima towers and bars with this gutter. I hope all goes as planed.

Donald Newman / 1999 EV Weekender / Eugene, OR

kenneyvogel wrote:

We are installing Yakima roof racks and a rocket box on our 1997 VW
Eurovan camper. We had seen one fellow who replaced the struts for
the popup top with beefier struts. We are hoping to do the same but
wondered if anyone had any ideas on where we might find them. The VW
dealer does not carry any heavier duty struts. We live in Hood River,
Or. Thanks for any help you might offer. kenneyvogel@...
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Not wishing to drill the fiberglass poptop and unable to obtain full length
gutters from Yakima I am waiting delivery of full length gutters from

<Sklashley@...>

who I believe is obtaining them from Germany.&nbsp; My understanding is
that they fit between the poptop seal and the body seam just above the
windows and doors.&nbsp; My plan is to use the removable Yakima towers
and bars with this gutter.&nbsp; I hope all goes as planed.
<p>Donald Newman&nbsp; /&nbsp; 1999 EV Weekender&nbsp; /&nbsp; Eugene,
OR
<p>kenneyvogel wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><style></style>
<font face="Arial"><font size=-1>We
are installing Yakima roof racks and a rocket box on our 1997 VW Eurovan
camper.&nbsp; We had seen one fellow who replaced the struts for the popup
top with beefier struts.&nbsp; We are hoping to do the same but wondered
if anyone had any ideas on where we might find them.&nbsp; The VW dealer
does not carry any heavier duty struts.&nbsp; We live in Hood River,

Or.&nbsp;

Thanks for any help you might offer.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

kenneyvogel@...</font></font>

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Severin Daniel Chayka
@ PCI Energy Services.

Try Windy, the editor/publisher of the EuroVan Update. Total cost (including
shipping) is $142. Write to HP Products, 6330 Waid Cir, Paducah, KY 42001
and enclose check for $142. I don't think you can get a better deal.

Bob Williams
93 Weekender in Maryland

In a message dated 11/9/99 10:36:44 AM Eastern Standard Time,
OZCOLEMAN@... writes:

Hi Folks,

I'm after a Bentley Eurovan Book, $180 at VW Dealer. Anybody know where I

can

get one used or cheaper?

John Coleman
'93 EV MV Weekender
Boulder, CO

Hi Folks,

I'm after a Bently Eurovan Book, $180 at VW Dealer. Anybody know where I can get one used or cheaper?

John Coleman
'93 EV MV Weekender
Boulder, CO

Jeryy,
Thanks for the interesting information on spark plugs. I'd love to try
"indexing " my plugs but somehow this isn't a priority with my wife these
days so guess I'll have to live with a random orientation ;.). I do however
plan to stick with multi-electrode plugs. Your explanation makes sense and
explains the extended life without gap adjustment. Maybe I'll try the Bosch
version instead of the Champion.
Ron