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Re: EVC Electrical Problem

jastamford
 

Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and
another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a
breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... through
the air vents for the heater?

--- In ev_update@..., "jack_son_73" <jackr1@...> wrote:

The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
forward of the Converter. The converter is
connected to that tie point, & to
rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
There is another circuit breaker near the rear
bat. When the converter is NOT connected to
shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
firewall relay.

BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
a defective identical 30A breaker inside the
Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so
my rear bat never got a full charge, from
alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
welcomed back 'home'.

BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to
chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
while working on my van.

Jack_son
'03 EVC '01 Passat
===============
--In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote:

Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above the
battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-
breaker
inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and fuse
checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection for
distribution?

--- In ev_update@..., "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:

There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the engine
is
running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear
battery.
A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually
about
$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There
should
be 3
wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts
holding it to the wall.

Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close
to
the
rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it
with
a
non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.

Duane
05HD Rialta


--- In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@>
wrote:

My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged
by
the
altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an
THEN!
I
go on
a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge
cold
while
driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any
juice
at
the
battery with the engine running and the alternator showed
14.5
VDC
output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged the
coach
battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come
to
the
conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the
shoreline and
the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1)
am
I
correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do I
change
it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help.
Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

gti_matt
 

Do you have an aftermarket radio? I had my EVC inspected after I
bought it used & everything was fine with the ODBII, but then had a new
stereo installed & the ODB port no longer worked. Check the archives
for info on this, I think it was even in a VW service bulletin. When I
went back to the radio installer, all he had to do was cut one line.

When I installed mine (bought from Crutchfield) it came with excellent instructions and yes there was one wire, called the K-line, that was not to be connected from the car's harness to the new radio.

Read about it here:
Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)

gti_matt
 

DDL = Daytime Driving Lights. My '03 EVC & '01 Passat have it - not sure about '95 Passat.
'95 Passats in the US and Canada were fitted with DRLs.
Re: driving/fog lights

 

They are standard equipment in 2001-3. I have them but us them
infrequently, mostly for periodically patrolling the neighborhood at slow speed as part
of the Neighborhood Watch program. The lights' pattern is very wide, probably
160 degrees, and short (less than 200 feet). The bulb is an H3, 12v, 55w.
Europarts-sd carries the bulb for $4.50.

Bob W.

In a message dated 6/21/2008 2:59:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dave_king_ev@... writes:

Does anyone use the OEM lights? I see europarts sells them for about
$300 (without the switch and relay and wiring harnesses).

You can buy toys in autoparts stores for $40 or you can buy good ones
Hella or PIAA for $400-$1000.

Here's a little reference info:

_
()
_
()
_
()

Does anyone have any experience with the OEM (that fit perfectly in
the bumper cover)? What kind of pattern do they have? What kind of
bulb? What wattage? Are replacement bulbs a VW-only part?




****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()
Re: Looking for Eurovan curtains!!!

 

I would give Campbell Nelson Auto Recycling at try. The are in
Arlington, Washington but will send stuff anywhere. They seem to
usually have several Eurovans there and I have picked up more than a
few obscure parts for my '93 weekender that were missing; cooler box,
snap in front curtain, back hatch screened curtain, upper bunk pads.
It was a while ago that I was there but there was a van with all the
curtains. There phone number is 1-888-337-7757.
Good luck,
Josh

--- In ev_update@..., "Jan" <antjan@...> wrote:

I have searched and searched. Is there ANYWHERE I can get some
curtains for my '99 Eurovan
MV? help!!
jan
Re: Need a custom gas spring for your top or hatch?

Jim White
 

Stuart MacMillan wrote:
I posted earlier about a source for the OEM gas springs:
www.spdhardware.com, and I just boosted my top from 100 lb lift to 120 lb
lift. It's great, the top opens itself practically. You do need to weigh
over 100 lbs to pull it down though! For my old shoulders, pulling is
easier than pushing!
For those of you who carry stuff on top, or need a custom gas spring for
other things (rear hatch) SPD sells a vented adjustable strut that you can
reduce pressure on until it works properly, then you can send it back and
get a set with your required pressure. Pretty cool:

The top adjustable spring is the SPD-GSVL-3100-250, with the stock spring
being 100 lbs: SPD-GSVL-3100-100, $21.53 each. I think this will also work
for the rear hatch. So, if you have rack on the hatch and want extra lift,
here's how you get it. ...
Verrry interesting!

My rear hatch springs are just fine for just the door and the door with the bike rack (Fiamma Carrybike T4 - looks so good it gives Wolfie some extra pizzaz even without the Cannondale) but not with the bike on it. It would be great to get some springs that worked with the bike on the rack (and given that I'm using ViseGrips to solve the problem currently, I'm likely to need some new ones sooner rather than later... ;-)

Thank you!

Jim & Wolfie sitting out a *very* hot day in SoCal...
Re: Fw: tranny questions again

Judy
 

Thanks-I did have the filter changed with the belated fluid change done at 52K, and I plan to do another fluid/filter change in 2K miles-I hope to get a filler tube from Europarts to make it easier to check fluid level-

The ATF service was not done with the 40K service, but the dealer agreed to do it-after I much later found the info on this list.
Am I better off to go to an ATRA place for the next ATF service, or stick with the dealer (and get parts from Europarts)?

With a cold start, the engine idles fast for about 2 minutes, then slows down, "clicks" at 900RPM, and then it's easier to shift into R.

All advice appreciated!
Judy

----- Original Message ----
From: "Sea2river@..." <Sea2river@...>
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 6:51:45 PM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Fw: tranny questions again

Good advice. It is likely that whoever changed the fluid 6k miles ago may
have failed to have the engine running when topping off the fluid, thus
leaving you a bit short.

Bob W


In a message dated 6/19/2008 1:58:59 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gti_matt@... writes:

My 2002 EVWK has 58K miles. It's hard to shift into reverse, esp when cold,
and there is an occasional lag.

The lag between P and R, P and R, R and D, etc. is a bit typical of these
transmissions IMHO.

However if you're noticing a significant difference between when cold and
when warm, you probably have any combination of low fluid and/or dirty fluid. I
would have the fluid level checked (you might have a leak). I see you said
that at 52K you had the fluid changed. Did they also change out the filter
too? I'm thinking that since it was changed at 52K (and not necessarily at 40K?)
that you had VERY dirty fluid and probably could be due for another change,
since these changes don't get all of it out. Make sure the filter is changed
as well. While in there, do the pressure adjustment screw mod too
(search/google)H

My questions-are there any signs of a transmisssion about to fail?
I wouldn't think so here. These are more typical of dirty or low fluid.

What is "limp mode"?
Usually does that to protect itself and refuses to go into some of the
higher gears. Doesn't sound like that's what you are experiencing.






****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()





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Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)

jack_son_73
 

Larry -

DDL = Daytime Driving Lights. My '03 EVC & '01
Passat have it - not sure about '95 Passat.

I am still using original Trojan house bat, &
picked up a marine 'deep-cycle' the same size.
I built a larger bat box, air & water tight,
vented like the original, with drain. I added
additional +/- DC cables from front battery
relay to converter, & to new bat box.

For my Ham transmitter amplifier, I need about
30% of the house battery current with key down
while sending Morse Code, but part of that
comes from alternator when it's running.

I'm considering a higher current alternator.
The 3/4" plastic box was such a big project, I
wish I had just put in a pair of Optima bats,
& omitted the bat box. I could even have added
a 3rd Optima, and still had storage space.

Jack_son
================
--In ev_update@..., Larry Schellhase <schellhase@..>
wrote:


What house battery do you have and what is a DDL?

Thanks
Larry
Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

 

I've read about the after market radio thing, too. It may be in the
information I read when I bought the vag com. Have you checked their
site?

On Fri, Jun 20, 2008 at 8:06 PM, mike shea <m_shea@...> wrote:


i've been to advanced auto and firestone and niether of them could get
connection either.

From: "Steve@..." <steve@...>
Reply-To: ev_update@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:35:09 -0500

Mike,

What are you using to scan with? You might stop by an Autozone and see
if they can scan it.

Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk
On Jun 20, 2008, at 4:26 PM, vweuro00 wrote:

my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II
port. i checked the wires going to it. two of them are ground wires
that both have a good ground. one has 12v going to it and that one is
fine. the other is the gray/white wire. i'm not sure where that one
goes to. the bentley manual shows that it goes to the radio. that
doesn't seem right to me. at any rate, i'm two months past my
inspection now as i've been trying to figure this out. i'd love to get
any ideas.
thanks
mike
Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run

 

Only one fuel pump for the motor. Not sure if there is another one
somewhere for something on the RV part.

Starts and quits could be electrical, but could also be
- lack of fuel (not enough pressure to keep up with running engine but
gets enough catch -- unlikely in my opinion)
- inability to exhaust properly (catalytic converter clogging the
exhaust -- we've seen this before on this list)
- lack of enough fresh air into firing chambers, but I have a hard
time imagining an air filter that dirty.

On Fri, Jun 20, 2008 at 5:05 PM, John Johnson <johnnie5@...> wrote:

Are there two fuels pumps - a primary and secondary? I see mention of
a regulator also - mechanical or electric.

I'm thinking that if the motor starts but then quits there is an
electrical problem?
Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

 

i've been to advanced auto and firestone and niether of them could get connection either.

From: "Steve@..." <steve@...>
Reply-To: ev_update@...
To: ev_update@...
Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 16:35:09 -0500

Mike,

What are you using to scan with? You might stop by an Autozone and see
if they can scan it.

Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk
On Jun 20, 2008, at 4:26 PM, vweuro00 wrote:

my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II
port. i checked the wires going to it. two of them are ground wires
that both have a good ground. one has 12v going to it and that one is
fine. the other is the gray/white wire. i'm not sure where that one
goes to. the bentley manual shows that it goes to the radio. that
doesn't seem right to me. at any rate, i'm two months past my
inspection now as i've been trying to figure this out. i'd love to get
any ideas.
thanks
mike
Re: Need a custom gas spring for your top or hatch?

quiltdog
 

Thanks Stuart! I was thinking about getting something like this for
our 2002.

I'm still looking for the middle passenger seats for it, BTW.

Ann McD


For those of you who carry stuff on top, or need a custom gas spring for
other things (rear hatch) SPD sells a vented adjustable strut that
you can
reduce pressure on until it works properly, then you can send it
back and
get a set with your required pressure. Pretty cool:




The top adjustable spring is the SPD-GSVL-3100-250, with the stock
spring
being 100 lbs: SPD-GSVL-3100-100, $21.53 each. I think this will
also work
for the rear hatch. So, if you have rack on the hatch and want
extra lift,
here's how you get it.
Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)

forest flanigan
 

Hey Larry --

I have refilled at many stations that did not have a recovery system--in my
last camper (cab over on a pick up) I refueled all the way down the Baja
Peninsula with the propane on , and that camper had a "normal " fridge where
you could open the door on the outside and see the flame burning. In fact
thats how I had to light it ---my wife would hold the red button in and I
would put a flame to it.

Again -I 'm not stating this is safe practice. This is a recommedation to
the writer that was losing to much battery.

Jackson may have the right idea--pull the sucker out and put in one that
really works. Both Sportsmoble and GTRV put electrics in their rigs.

As I have stated many times on this forum this is the worst designed propane
refer I have come across--and by far the hardest to maintain--I have had
mine out 4 times this week to get it ready for summer. I think that
Winnebago must have threatened Norcold into this design. Maybe saying --"if
you don't make it this way we will go elsewhere for our parts". Norcold
should have told them they would NOT build such a sh%^%tty unit so as to not
ruin their reputation. But in the era of the big boy's pushing us all around
that's not how business is done. It's a proven fact that companies make
different types of the same product for different stores. Iwanted to get
some T-shirts years ago to make some Chrstmas presents --bought some Haines
from K-mart and they were so thin that I couldn't use them --I went looking
for a better brand and wound up buying Haines --just not "the they made for
K-mart " as the seller said. Why would a good company that makes a good
product do this?

Forest
with a finally working Norcold
Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

 

Do you have an aftermarket radio? I had my EVC inspected after I
bought it used & everything was fine with the ODBII, but then had a new
stereo installed & the ODB port no longer worked. Check the archives
for info on this, I think it was even in a VW service bulletin. When I
went back to the radio installer, all he had to do was cut one line.

Bill
01 EVC
Rosa Blanco



--- In ev_update@..., "vweuro00" <m_shea@...> wrote:

my check engine light is on and i'm getting no signal to the OBD II
port. i checked the wires going to it. two of them are ground wires
that both have a good ground. one has 12v going to it and that one is
fine. the other is the gray/white wire. i'm not sure where that one
goes to. the bentley manual shows that it goes to the radio. that
doesn't seem right to me. at any rate, i'm two months past my
inspection now as i've been trying to figure this out. i'd love to
get
any ideas.
thanks
mike
Re: Looking for Eurovan curtains!!!

[email protected]
 

Why bother. We use masking tape and hefy bags for the windows where the EVC
curtains don't work. Pretty is as pretty does!!!



****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()
Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run

 

If it's a Rialta, it's probably on a 95 chassis. The 10th digit in
the VIN will tell you for sure. S=95, T=96. The 95 had OBDI and used
a 2-pin connector. It's under the dash on the left side. There are
actually 2 separate connectors, 1 black and 1 white. They look sort
of like spade lugs inside plastic housings.

Duane
05HD Rialta

--- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:

I was asked to look at a hanger queen that several shops have worked
on. Look under hood reveals many vacuum lines disconnected and the
decal is not helpful - is there an online hose map for this engine?

The owner states two fuel pumps replaced to correct no start
condition. But engine turns over and fires but when key is released
to the run position the engine stops?

This is a 1996 but I cannot find any OBD connector under the dash.
Can someone give me an idea where the connector is?

Is there any way to check from the VIN the actual date of the
chassis/engine? I'm thinking it may be earlier than tittle stated 1996?

Are there two fuels pumps - a primary and secondary? I see mention of
a regulator also - mechanical or electric.

I'm thinking that if the motor starts but then quits there is an
electrical problem?

Best way to obtain a manual?

Vehicle was driven to its present location after a "hard start" then
refused to run.

Help
Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run

John Johnson
 

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@...> wrote:
So if I was going to hot wire the switch I would run 12 volts from the
battery to where, as a test to bypass the switch run position?

I can't find the OBD connector, period.

I agree on the pump/regulator - it fires up smoothly then dies.

The vacuum hoses disconnected bother me, would the ECU turn off with a
vacuum leak?

Has anyone checked the ignition switch (behind the key). Those have
been a weak link on VWs since the Third Reich.

Don't expect OBDI to tell you what's wrong with the ignition....it
can't detect that level of detail usually.

After replacing two fuel pumps that should tell two things: there was
nothing wrong with the original pump, and there was nothing wrong with
the first replacement pump. Leave the second replacement alone.

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail, I think (at
least that's what you'd expect), but I bet your problem isn't fuel.

Best way to get a manual right away is to buy one from Bentley direct.
You can always find them on ebay, too, for a lot less.
Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run

dave_king_ev
 

Has anyone checked the ignition switch (behind the key). Those have
been a weak link on VWs since the Third Reich.

Don't expect OBDI to tell you what's wrong with the ignition....it
can't detect that level of detail usually.

After replacing two fuel pumps that should tell two things: there was
nothing wrong with the original pump, and there was nothing wrong with
the first replacement pump. Leave the second replacement alone.

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail, I think (at
least that's what you'd expect), but I bet your problem isn't fuel.

Best way to get a manual right away is to buy one from Bentley direct.
You can always find them on ebay, too, for a lot less.

--- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:

I was asked to look at a hanger queen that several shops have worked
on. Look under hood reveals many vacuum lines disconnected and the
decal is not helpful - is there an online hose map for this engine?

The owner states two fuel pumps replaced to correct no start
condition. But engine turns over and fires but when key is released
to the run position the engine stops?

This is a 1996 but I cannot find any OBD connector under the dash.
Can someone give me an idea where the connector is?

Is there any way to check from the VIN the actual date of the
chassis/engine? I'm thinking it may be earlier than tittle stated 1996?

Are there two fuels pumps - a primary and secondary? I see mention of
a regulator also - mechanical or electric.

I'm thinking that if the motor starts but then quits there is an
electrical problem?

Best way to obtain a manual?

Vehicle was driven to its present location after a "hard start" then
refused to run.

Help
Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)

Larry Schellhase
 

What house battery do you have and what is a DDL?

Thanks
Larry

--- On Fri, 6/20/08, jack_son_73 <jackr1@...> wrote:
From: jack_son_73 <jackr1@...>
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Refueling with Frig Lit was(EVC Electrical Problem)
To: ev_update@...
Date: Friday, June 20, 2008, 2:12 PM











Larry -



Most fuel pumps I've used in the past few years

have the vapor recovery system. They even draw

gas gurgling back underground if you try to over-

fill, of course. However, it was not until I was

following this list for a few years that I

realized I was possibly damaging my vehicles by

topping off the tank. While trying to FILL my

tank for accurate measurements, or max miles

before next fill-up, I sometimes overflowed gas

on my feet, ground, car... Yeah, not smart, and

sometimes our first big mistake is our last. I

may have pulled the nozzle out too far - as some

tank necks will not take high pressure fuel pumps

w/o resetting. The vapor would only need to travel

1 foot - but if I can smell it from two feet

away, the Norcold might ignite it.



I would not use propane devices while driving,

& especially while near others who are refueling

next to me. None of the pump jockeys went to

"refueling school" - & I obviously skipped that

part of my education.



Some tunnels have signs prohibiting propane tanks,

even if turned off. You are supposed to stop for

inspection, or be directed to an alternate route.

They mostly look for large reefer trucks, but it

also applies to the small "BBQ" LP tanks.



With my extra deep-cycle house battery, there is

no trouble keeping up with the [15A?] Norcold -

as inefficient as it is. I'd disable my DDL if 15A

was that critical. I run 20 to 85A with my Ham Rig

on. Winnie must have a brother-in-law or other

connection at Norcold, to have helped them unload

so many poorly designed refrigerators.



My main reason for never using ANY propane EVER,

is the difficulty, inconvenience, & expense of

refilling. After reading about the soot problems

with Norcold & furnace, + lighting & relighting,

cleaning - I am very happy. I'd take both

appliances out, & leave them out, if it wasn't

such a difficult task. My chest Norcold would

fit in place of the original unit, & I'd have a

choice of freezer or cooler, a fully adjustable

thermostat, and only 1/3 the current. + I could

leave it out when not needed.



My LARGE chest-style Norcold portable cooler-

freezer only draws 4-5A on 12V [I've never

measured AC amps], and it naturally runs a lot

less if set above -32F. It's hard to believe it

has a compressor, yet draws the same current as

my DC 6-pack or large Koolatron - both solid

state coolers, @ ~4.5A. I must use an external

power supply to run the solid state units on

117V AC, but the compressor unit just plugs

into 115V AC,



Regards,



Jack_son

============ ===

--In ev_update@yahoogrou ps.com, Larry Schellhase <schellhase@ .> wrote:

Forest do you do this in areas that do not have vapor recovery
systems on the gas pumps? I feel relatively safe refueling with the

Norcold running on propane when the gas pump has a vapor recovery

system, but when the pumps do not have vapor recovery I turn the

fridge off before filling.

* * * Warning - I am not stating this is a safe practice or
recommending that anyone else should do what I do. * * *

Larry
LA, CA




























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run

John Johnson
 

I was asked to look at a hanger queen that several shops have worked
on. Look under hood reveals many vacuum lines disconnected and the
decal is not helpful - is there an online hose map for this engine?

The owner states two fuel pumps replaced to correct no start
condition. But engine turns over and fires but when key is released
to the run position the engine stops?

This is a 1996 but I cannot find any OBD connector under the dash.
Can someone give me an idea where the connector is?

Is there any way to check from the VIN the actual date of the
chassis/engine? I'm thinking it may be earlier than tittle stated 1996?

Are there two fuels pumps - a primary and secondary? I see mention of
a regulator also - mechanical or electric.

I'm thinking that if the motor starts but then quits there is an
electrical problem?

Best way to obtain a manual?

Vehicle was driven to its present location after a "hard start" then
refused to run.

Help
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