开云体育

--- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@> wrote:

So if I was going to hot wire the switch I would run 12 volts from the
battery to where, as a test to bypass the switch run position?

I can't find the OBD connector, period.

I agree on the pump/regulator - it fires up smoothly then dies.

The vacuum hoses disconnected bother me, would the ECU turn off with a
vacuum leak?

Has anyone checked the ignition switch (behind the key). Those have
been a weak link on VWs since the Third Reich.

Don't expect OBDI to tell you what's wrong with the ignition....it
can't detect that level of detail usually.

After replacing two fuel pumps that should tell two things: there was
nothing wrong with the original pump, and there was nothing wrong with
the first replacement pump. Leave the second replacement alone.

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail, I think (at
least that's what you'd expect), but I bet your problem isn't fuel.

Best way to get a manual right away is to buy one from Bentley direct.
You can always find them on ebay, too, for a lot less.

----- Original Message -----
From: forest flanigan<mailto:creoflan@...>
To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:06 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] EVC Electrical Problem


If you have a hard time finding a replacement solenoid or can't trace the
problem you can always drive with the fridge on propane . Some folks
recommend turning the propane off during fueling but I find no problem with
leaving the fridge lit while refueling. If you do turn off the fridge while
putting gas in you need a well charged rear battery to get it re lit.
Good luck
Forest

----- Original Message -----
From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...>
To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem


Jas -

I was trying to keep you from having to access the
Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the
rear power panel, & access requires removing the
large plastic panel below the closet. The converter
has an internal breaker similar/identical to the
ones near the batteries.

I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced
mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output
into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC
'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had
6A for charging house bat.]

If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all
seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic
cover to the left of luggage area, below closet.

Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach
the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't
have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial]
access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I
will do the same.

The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches
forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via
converter], & front relay connect.

Regards,

Jack-son
========================
---In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@..> wrote:
>
> Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
> diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and
> another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a
> breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer...
through
> the air vents for the heater?
>
> --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:
> >
> > The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
> > goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
> > forward of the Converter. The converter is
> > connected to that tie point, & to
> > rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
> > There is another circuit breaker near the rear
> > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to
> > shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
> > 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
> > firewall relay.
> >
> > BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
> > one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
> > a defective identical 30A breaker inside the
> > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so
> > my rear bat never got a full charge, from
> > alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
> > selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
> > they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
> > Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
> > welcomed back 'home'.
> >
> > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to
> > chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
> > wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
> > would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
> > ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
> > as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
> > while working on my van.
> >
> > Jack_son
> > '03 EVC '01 Passat
> > ===============
> > --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@>
wrote:
> > >
> > > Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above
the
> > > battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-
> > breaker
> > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and
fuse
> > > checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection
for
> > > distribution?
> > >
> > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:
> > > >
> > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the
engine
> is
> > > > running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear
> > > battery.
> > > > A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them.
Usually
> > about
> > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There
> should
> > > be 3
> > > > wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or
nuts
> > > > holding it to the wall.
> > > >
> > > > Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close
> to
> > the
> > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it
> with
> > a
> > > > non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.
> > > >
> > > > Duane
> > > > 05HD Rialta
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford"
<johnstamford@>
> > > wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged
> by
> > > the
> > > > > altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an
> THEN!
> > I
> > > go on
> > > > > a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge
> cold
> > > while
> > > > > driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any
> juice
> > at
> > > the
> > > > > battery with the engine running and the alternator showed
> 14.5
> > > VDC
> > > > > output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged
the
> > > coach
> > > > > battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have
come
> > to
> > > the
> > > > > conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the
> > > shoreline and
> > > > > the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is;
1)
> > am
> > > I
> > > > > correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do
I
> > > change
> > > > > it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's
help.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>

----- Original Message -----
From: sparksgal2003<mailto:63342@...>
To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:38 AM
Subject: [ev_update] 3-way fridge


hi group,
noticed a recent thread on the norcold fridge. my fridge in my 1997 evc
does not work on "110volt" shore power mode. does anyone have
suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem. it works just fine on
12v and propane modes.
thanks...

----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Robinson
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 5:15 PM
Subject: [ev_update] '02 EVC with very recently rebult tranny- linkage won't go into R or P!


With slightly over 1000 miles on my rebuilt 5200+ tranny, I had an
unusual situation happen today.

I was in a congested intersection in the Poconos PA area and when I
went to go into reverse to clear the intersection, the shifter jut
sailed forward and I was still in a drive gear.

It seems that everything shifted down, so that now- as far up as I
move the shift lever, it sometimes will (thankfully) make it into
Neutral. 1st gear is literally where D would be.

So, I am now up in the mountains, ready to ride back to the NYC area
hoping that I can stay in Drive and can get it back into Neutral if
and when I need to stop. In D, there is no detent on the shifter
since it is somewhere between the actual detents,so I guess that it
can possibly get banged or slide into a lower gear.

Obviously, I will have to get the EVC back to VW, but that in itself
is a horror of scheduling.

Don't know that I am asking for advice or just venting. I have a
busy trip ahead of me. Hopefully, if I stop to gas up, I can get
the EVC back into neutral to turn off the engine and then back into
gear. I will have to rely on the parking brake alone and Neutral if
I can still slam and coax it to go above D.

Argh,
Rob - Long Beach, NY

-----Original Message-----
From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...]On
Behalf Of Rob Robinson
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 5:16 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] '02 EVC with very recently rebult tranny- linkage
won't go into R or P!


With slightly over 1000 miles on my rebuilt 5200+ tranny, I had an
unusual situation happen today.

I was in a congested intersection in the Poconos PA area and when I
went to go into reverse to clear the intersection, the shifter jut
sailed forward and I was still in a drive gear.

It seems that everything shifted down, so that now- as far up as I
move the shift lever, it sometimes will (thankfully) make it into
Neutral. 1st gear is literally where D would be.

So, I am now up in the mountains, ready to ride back to the NYC area
hoping that I can stay in Drive and can get it back into Neutral if
and when I need to stop. In D, there is no detent on the shifter
since it is somewhere between the actual detents,so I guess that it
can possibly get banged or slide into a lower gear.

Obviously, I will have to get the EVC back to VW, but that in itself
is a horror of scheduling.

Don't know that I am asking for advice or just venting. I have a
busy trip ahead of me. Hopefully, if I stop to gas up, I can get
the EVC back into neutral to turn off the engine and then back into
gear. I will have to rely on the parking brake alone and Neutral if
I can still slam and coax it to go above D.

Argh,
Rob - Long Beach, NY

In a message dated 6/22/2008 9:39:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jackr1@... writes:




John -

Yes, my original Converter was a Magnetek 30A unit,
& it had an internal breaker, with excess voltage
drop through it. Since only 6A of the 30 was used
for charging, I never got much of a charge. It is
about a $10-15 item, & would only take 1 minute to
replace, once you have the Magnetek out, & open.

I wanted higher DC output, so found the 45A model
on EBay - NIB. They were taken over by Parallax,
who has similar units with their name on them.

If your problem is that internal breaker, get one
like the front breaker on firewall left of battery.

While tracing your problem, don't overlook ALL wires
& crimped lugs done by Winnebago. They did poor work,
& perhaps the same guy was "Quality" inspector.

I kept my original Magnetek in case I had a problem
with the replacement one, but it's never malfunctioned.

I should have looked harder for a better replacement
for my Magnetek. I understand someone makes a
Converter-Charger-Converter-Charger-<WBR>Inverter [s
great to have a 3-in-one, even with limited Inverter power.

Let us know what you find.

Regards,

Jack_son

===============
--In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) , "John
Stamford" <johnstamford@joh>
wrote:

Jack-son,

Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear! Was your original

converter a Magtech or something else? You say it has an internal
breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach
battery box. I opened the access door to the converter which is
accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring
connections which I redid.

Regards, John
----- Original Message -----
From: jack_son_73<<WBR>mailto:ja<WB>
To: _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:_ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) >

Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem


Jas -

I was trying to keep you from having to access the
Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the
rear power panel, & access requires removing the
large plastic panel below the closet. The converter
has an internal breaker similar/identical to the
ones near the batteries.

I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced
mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output
into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC
'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had
6A for charging house bat.]

If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all
seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic
cover to the left of luggage area, below closet.

Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach
the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't
have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial]
access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I
will do the same.

The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches
forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via
converter], & front relay connect.

Regards,

Jack-son
============ ======== ==
---In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote:

Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and
another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of

a

> breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer...
through

the air vents for the heater?

--- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:

The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
forward of the Converter. The converter is
connected to that tie point, & to
rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
There is another circuit breaker near the rear

> > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to

shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
firewall relay.

BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
a defective identical 30A breaker inside the

> > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so

my rear bat never got a full charge, from
alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
welcomed back 'home'.

> BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to

chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
while working on my van.

> > Jack_son

'03 EVC '01 Passat
============<WB
--In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@>

wrote:

>

Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just

above

the

battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp

circut-

breaker

> > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and
fuse

checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next

connection

for

distribution?

--- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:

> > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the

engine

is

running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the

rear

> battery.

A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them.

Usually

about

> > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There
should

be 3

wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or

nuts

holding it to the wall.

> >

Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty

close

to

the

> > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on

it

with

a

non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.

>

Duane
05HD Rialta

> > > --- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_

(mailto:ev_update@...) <mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "jastamford"

<johnstamford@>

wrote:

My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being

charged

by

the

altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked...

an

THEN!

> > I

go on

a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the

refridge

cold

while

driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting

any

juice

at

the

> battery with the engine running and the alternator

showed

> 14.5

VDC

output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline

recharged

the
> > > coach

battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I

have

come

to

the

conclusion that there is a relay the switches between

the

shoreline and

the alternator to charge the coach battery... question

is;

1)

am

> > > I

correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3)

how do

I

change

it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for

anyone's

help.

> > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()

--- In ev_update@..., "sparksgal2003" <63342@...> wrote:

hi group,
noticed a recent thread on the norcold fridge. my fridge in my 1997 evc
does not work on "110volt" shore power mode. does anyone have
suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem. it works just fine on
12v and propane modes.
thanks...

--- On Sun, 6/22/08, sparksgal2003 <63342@...> wrote:










hi group,

noticed a recent thread on the norcold fridge. my fridge in my 1997 evc

does not work on "110volt" shore power mode. does anyone have

suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem. it works just fine on

12v and propane modes.

thanks...







_____

----- Original Message -----
From: mike shea
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:15 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM



hi all
thanks for the replies. i do have an aftermarket blaupunkt radio in my car.
i've had it for a long time though so i was skeptical that this was where
the problem lied. at any rate, i cut the wire as suggested on the ross-tech
page. still no difference. no reading at all at the obd II connector.
any other suggestions?
peace
mike

In a message dated 6/21/2008 11:14:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
keithtracypierce@... writes:

I bet they're all the same, but mine's a 93, with central locking,
but it's not a central locking question.

The problem is that the passenger door won't stay unlocked. At
first it seemed that the button simply 'fell' a bit when pulling the
handle; I went back to the archives to find a recent post about
a 'snubber' and electrical tape solution. The snubber must be the
little fingers that center the lock knob in the trim plate; I
tightened them and then discovered that the lock knob is actually
PULLED downward when actuating the door handle (in or out). The
door opens to the 'first notch', and any further manipulation just
pulls the knob further down.

I was in the door to replace the mirror and noticed that the lock
motor had been disconnected (the door was just 'always locked'
before, and holding the lock knob up enabled opening the door); I
hoped connecting the motor would remedy. The motor is properly
actuated by key or knob motion, both directions. But now that the
motor's connected, if you fidget trying to open the door beyond
that 'first notch' from the outside, eventually the button gets
pulled down enough that it actuates the motor and you're locked out
of the car, not good and probably why the motor was disconnected.

Any ideas how to fix it?

2) similar subject: my sliding door unlocks and locks in response to
either of the front door actuators, but unlocking the sliding door
itself (from in or outside) has no effect on the front locks. Is
this normal central locking behavior? (yes, the child safety latch
is in danger! mode)





****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars. ()