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In a message dated 6/22/2008 9:39:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
jackr1@... writes:




John -

Yes, my original Converter was a Magnetek 30A unit,
& it had an internal breaker, with excess voltage
drop through it. Since only 6A of the 30 was used
for charging, I never got much of a charge. It is
about a $10-15 item, & would only take 1 minute to
replace, once you have the Magnetek out, & open.

I wanted higher DC output, so found the 45A model
on EBay - NIB. They were taken over by Parallax,
who has similar units with their name on them.

If your problem is that internal breaker, get one
like the front breaker on firewall left of battery.

While tracing your problem, don't overlook ALL wires
& crimped lugs done by Winnebago. They did poor work,
& perhaps the same guy was "Quality" inspector.

I kept my original Magnetek in case I had a problem
with the replacement one, but it's never malfunctioned.

I should have looked harder for a better replacement
for my Magnetek. I understand someone makes a
Converter-Charger-Converter-Charger-<WBR>Inverter [s
great to have a 3-in-one, even with limited Inverter power.

Let us know what you find.

Regards,

Jack_son

===============
--In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) , "John
Stamford" <johnstamford@joh>
wrote:

Jack-son,

Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear! Was your original

converter a Magtech or something else? You say it has an internal
breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach
battery box. I opened the access door to the converter which is
accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring
connections which I redid.

Regards, John
----- Original Message -----
From: jack_son_73<<WBR>mailto:ja<WB>
To: _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:_ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) >

Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM
Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem


Jas -

I was trying to keep you from having to access the
Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the
rear power panel, & access requires removing the
large plastic panel below the closet. The converter
has an internal breaker similar/identical to the
ones near the batteries.

I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced
mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output
into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC
'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had
6A for charging house bat.]

If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all
seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic
cover to the left of luggage area, below closet.

Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach
the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't
have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial]
access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I
will do the same.

The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches
forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via
converter], & front relay connect.

Regards,

Jack-son
============ ======== ==
---In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote:

Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and
another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of

a

> breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer...
through

the air vents for the heater?

--- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:

The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
forward of the Converter. The converter is
connected to that tie point, & to
rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
There is another circuit breaker near the rear

> > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to

shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
firewall relay.

BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
a defective identical 30A breaker inside the

> > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so

my rear bat never got a full charge, from
alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
welcomed back 'home'.

> BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to

chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
while working on my van.

> > Jack_son

'03 EVC '01 Passat
============<WB
--In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@>

wrote:

>

Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just

above

the

battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp

circut-

breaker

> > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and
fuse

checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next

connection

for

distribution?

--- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...)

<mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:

> > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the

engine

is

running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the

rear

> battery.

A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them.

Usually

about

> > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There
should

be 3

wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or

nuts

holding it to the wall.

> >

Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty

close

to

the

> > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on

it

with

a

non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.

>

Duane
05HD Rialta

> > > --- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_

(mailto:ev_update@...) <mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>, "jastamford"

<johnstamford@>

wrote:

My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being

charged

by

the

altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked...

an

THEN!

> > I

go on

a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the

refridge

cold

while

driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting

any

juice

at

the

> battery with the engine running and the alternator

showed

> 14.5

VDC

output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline

recharged

the
> > > coach

battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I

have

come

to

the

conclusion that there is a relay the switches between

the

shoreline and

the alternator to charge the coach battery... question

is;

1)

am

> > > I

correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3)

how do

I

change

it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for

anyone's

help.

> > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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