¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
Date

Re: amsoil ATF??

 

I wondered also if this was a stock thermostatic switch (unscrew the
VW one and install this one in its place)? If a stock switch, what
temperatures are readily available and from what source? Are you
saying both fans come on at 176 F with the new switch?

From what I've heard the VW cooling system (although operating at too
high a temperature for the ATF) has good capacity. This might mean
that the 176F fan switch alone would keep the ATF cooler (without the
separate cooler). If that's the case it might be a choice between
operating the engine too cold (176F or lower?), and operating the ATF
too high (over 200F but depends on how often you want to change ATF)
Also a factor is that the fans have been known to disintegrate with
resulting damage to the radiator, so operating the fans nearly all the
time may not be the best choice.

Rob

--- In ev_update@..., "jd_boldt" <jd_boldt@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@> wrote:
...I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c / 176f
) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before
entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far,
the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and
climbing hills.


Dale;
can you elaborate on your tranny pre-cooler, (where did you source
that?) I'm looking for one that will fit into the space. My
preliminary experiment using a heater core showed the precooler to
have a positive result, but the heater core will not fit between Rad
and grill (too thick, hoses in wrong spot)

Also did you change the engine thermostat and fan thermos yourself,
You can elaborate on that as well or email me, I need to do that too.
I find the VR-6 and eurovan to challenge my previous VW-Diesel skills.

janb
Washougal, WA


Re: Cover for main battery

 

Generousrick,

Thanks for offer, but I one just ordered. If that falls through, I
will take your offer.

Lin

--- In ev_update@..., generousrick@... wrote:

Hey friend I have an extra one with a small crack in it but it works
ok...Rick in Orlando



****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking
with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: 1993 Eurovan Antenna torn off

 

The antenna is not difficult to replace in a '93. You can see it if you remove the cover for the battery. You need to unscrew the black plastic top on the antenna and then it will pull out from underneath.

For the newer models like my '99, you need to remove a black cloth material that covers the access.

We stock OEM replacements.



Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

On May 29, 2008, at 11:40 PM, goody434 wrote:

Just got my Antenna broken off by a disgruntled fan at Dodger Stadium over a high school
championship game. I was not present, but I assume it was by the losing team fan. Does
anyone have any idea of the cost of a new Factory one? Any problems with installation? I am
bummed.
Richg


------------------------------------

To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to
mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@...
Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: 1993 Eurovan Antenna torn off

ed davis
 

If it is like the '99, the new antenna costs around $150, but is easy to install. I couldn't find an aftermarket replacement.

HTH,
Ed
'99 EVC

goody434 <goody434@...> wrote:
Just got my Antenna broken off by a disgruntled fan at Dodger Stadium over a high school
championship game. I was not present, but I assume it was by the losing team fan. Does
anyone have any idea of the cost of a new Factory one? Any problems with installation? I am
bummed.
Richg


Re: Want to Buy: Middle Seat for '95 EVC

 

do you know if it will fit in a 97?

----- Original Message ----
From: forest flanigan <creoflan@...>
To: ev_update@...
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 8:34:51 PM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: Want to Buy: Middle Seat for '95 EVC


The 2002 middle seat is different than the 95. I contacted the person
interested in a 95 and they still want it. So mine will go to her.

Forest

On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 4:58 AM, Todd and Dana <ddc_jtc@yahoo. com> wrote:

--- I have a 2002 middle seat available IN PA ddc_jtc@yahoo. com<ddc_jtc%40yahoo. com>

In ev_update@yahoogrou ps.com <ev_update%40yahoog roups.com> , "forest
flanigan" <creoflan@.. .> wrote:

I have a middle seat for a 95 EVC . Another person on the list was
looking
at it but she's in NY AND I'm in Northern Ca. I'll check with her --
Write me
off list if your interested

Forest

On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 10:50 AM, alonfw2 <alonfw@...> wrote:

If you have one or know of any please let me know. We just had
a baby
and would like him closer to us when we are out and about.

Alon :)



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Cooling problem in 93 GL

campbellmeister
 

Hello All,
I recently purchased an EV GL with 90,000 miles on it and I am loving
this thing. Unfortunately I am having an issue with the cooling system.
At random times while driving on city streets, the temp light begins to
blink and the temp gauge needle begins to climb. The needle does not
climb all the way to the top of the meter but it gets close enough to
make me concerned. Like clockwork, the light stops blinking and the
needle begins to plummet back to normal operating temperatures. My
cooling fans are operational and there is fluid in my overflow
reservoir. I was thinking that this might be a sticking thermostat. Any
advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advace!


Re: EVC Auxiliary/Coach/Deep Cycle Battery Specs?

 

Here we go with the "Coach Battery Replacement Dead Horse" again.

As has been posted several times and per the information avilable from the Optima web page, their AGM batteries are primarily starting batteries - with varying deep cycle capability. Everything I have read puts this type of battery into the "combined starting/deep cycle" battery category - which means that the Optima batteries are not TRUE deep cycle batteries and should not be used as coach bateries for optimum service life.

Bruce Webster
'97 EVC

jack_son_73 <jackr1@...> wrote:
David -

A Trojan 105 AH Marine bat came with my '03 EVC, &
I added a second 105 AH Marine for double capacity.
I built a new plastic box to fit them - tightly!.

If you plan to keep the original bat box, you may
want to buy the largest deep cycle that will fit.
Look at the AGM higher capacity & price by Optima.
Their Yellow Top are Marine batteries, which have
higher rating for a given size. Add a "T" for 3/8"
Stainless threaded terminals, to fit 3/8" wing nuts.

EVC house batteries never get a full charge from
the alternator. I use a small Harbor Freight ~1.5A
trickle "Float" charger on my house batteries - now
on sale for $6. I modified it with a resistor to
bring it up from 13.3 to 13.8V. If I charge my pair
for a day or two per week, they stay up fine.
Keeping batteries above 11 - 11.5V prolongs bat
life. If I don't drive the EVC once a week, I charge
the front bat also.

If you can't leave extension cord on van overnight,
use the converter/charger, which will top house bat
up a lot faster [at 15 Amps]. To charge front bat at
the same time, leave key on, with hand brake on to
kill the driving lights. The converter/charger will
charge front & rear bats together.

Regards,

Jack_son

==================================================
--In ev_update@..., "davidaprilh" <smithhorner@...> wrote:

The auxiliary battery in my '02 EVC is dead. The VW manual says
that
it's important to chose a replacement with the correct specs, but
neither the VW manual nor the Winnie manual list any specs other
than
12 V. The OEM battery is long gone, of course, so I can't check the
specs on the case. I don't want to assume that the previous owner
installed the right battery, and I do assume that my local battery
guy
will know nothing about the EVC.

What ARE the specs for the '02 EVC auxiliary battery? I've been
reading about Trojans, Dekas, and Odysseys on this board, but which
models match the VW specs? Or does it matter if I depart from the
VW
specs as long as I go with a deep cycle 12 V battery that fits in
the
EVC's battery box and has lots of Ah? My dead battery is a Werker
31MDC: 12V, 105 Ah, 775 CCA.

Thanks for your help!

David
'02 EVC


Re: amsoil ATF??

 

--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@...> wrote:
...I added a lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c / 176f
) and a cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before
entering the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far,
the ATF seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and
climbing hills.


Dale;
can you elaborate on your tranny pre-cooler, (where did you source
that?) I'm looking for one that will fit into the space. My
preliminary experiment using a heater core showed the precooler to
have a positive result, but the heater core will not fit between Rad
and grill (too thick, hoses in wrong spot)

Also did you change the engine thermostat and fan thermos yourself,
You can elaborate on that as well or email me, I need to do that too.
I find the VR-6 and eurovan to challenge my previous VW-Diesel skills.

janb
Washougal, WA


Re: 1993 Eurovan Antenna torn off

jack_son_73
 

Richg -

Did you retrieve the broken antenna? I have
a $2 repair that usually works. It's almost
undectable, & is written up here - somewhere.
If you can't find it I will try - or resend.

Jack_son
========================
--In ev_update@..., "goody434" <goody434@...> wrote:

Just got my Antenna broken off by a disgruntled fan at Dodger
Stadium over a high school
championship game. I was not present, but I assume it was by the
losing team fan. Does
anyone have any idea of the cost of a new Factory one? Any
problems with installation? I am
bummed.
Richg


Re: amsoil ATF??

 

Hi Dale,

I've got a 97 EVC also. Does your thermostatic switch turn both fans
on at 176f ? Does the 176f switch simply replace an existing EVC
switch or did you have to wire it in? Would the switch alone keep the
ATF in the 176f range? Did the lower coolant temperature affect your
gas mileage as far as you can tell?

Rob


--- In ev_update@..., Dale Lucas <da_lucas@...> wrote:

Adam,
We purchased our 97 EVC with 35K on it and the trans. fluid was
shot. There was also some ATF polluting the final drive gear oil.
So, before our first big trip we had it all changed, including a
filter of course.
Since then I change it myself with the help of this group, a dip
stick and using the OEM spec.fluid purchased locally from a non-dealer.
I change ours ever 20K and had the gear oil changed again and did
not find any ATF this time.
Just recently, before our last trip into the desert I added a
lower temp. thermostatic switch for the fans (80c / 176f ) and a
cooler just behind the grill to pre-cool the coolant before entering
the heat exchanger on the top of the transmission. So far, the ATF
seems to be staying below 170F, even in the extreme heat and climbing
hills.
I will still change the fluid ever 20K anyway.
Glad you found this group,
Be sure to wave when you see us on the road.
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon

Sea2river@... wrote:
Adam,

If it were me, I would get the OEM AT fluid, filter, and gasket
(europarts-sd dot com has reasonable prices), plus a sample kit from
Blackstone Lab (
_
() ) and prepare to do the
change myself or provide it to my mechanic.
As the old fluid is being changed, I would get a sample of the old
fluid and
submit it to Blackstone for analysis. A few weeks later, I will have
the
sample test results and can see if another immediate ATF change is
recommended.
While I am uncertain as to your AT's condition, I suspect you will
be OK
and will have avoided ower-reacting.

Good luck.
Bob W.


In a message dated 5/29/2008 10:28:51 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
adam@... writes:

I am new to this group and having read some recent posts on
transmission
service I have a
few questions. I have a 97 EVC with 83K on it and to my knowledge it
has not
had any trans
fluid changes. I should also say I am not a gearhead and trying to
understand the lingo as
best as I can..The local VW garage here is suggesting replacing the
existing
fluid with Amsoil
ATF.

Is this acceptable or should I insist on the factory fluid?

My mechanic also is suggesting looking at the ring and pinion oil
which he
states is often a
problem in the VR6. Is this so?

Lastly, it seems that a full flush of the system is a bit harder
than other
systems. My guys
states that it is probable that 85% of the fluid can be flushed. Am I
missing something here?

Trying my best to make it out of the "danger zone".

Thanks for your help.

Adam Mentzell

****Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking
with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
()









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: headlight chime

 

First thing you need to check is if you get a warning if you leave the
keys in the ignition and open the door. They have to have been turned
to the "on" position, so try them there and also in the off position
right before removing them.
The door switch plays a part in this- do your dome lights work
correctly? ie, coming on with door open, turning off (with timer, or
instantly with key on) when the door is closed?
The "chime" in the 93s and 95s is a tall relay on the relay panel under
the dash- it has a grill on the end of it like a speaker (which is what
it is)
On the newer VWs the chime is integrated into the instrument cluster.
gomi_


1993 Eurovan Antenna torn off

 

Just got my Antenna broken off by a disgruntled fan at Dodger Stadium over a high school
championship game. I was not present, but I assume it was by the losing team fan. Does
anyone have any idea of the cost of a new Factory one? Any problems with installation? I am
bummed.
Richg


Re: 95 EVC Towing Ability

 

And the scooter could ride on a hitch-mounted cargo shelf. Then it's
just a little extra weight, not more wheel drag and more frontal area
to push thru the air. And you won't have to pay tolls for extra
axles, either.

Paul in Pittsfield

--- In ev_update@..., "Stephen Kramar" <sgkramar@...> wrote:

Towing anything over 1500 lbs technically requires trailer brakes. Not
sure how that works with a towed car. You could probably tow a Polo (I
towed a Saturn sedan but don't try to stop quickly), but don't forget
your will get 2 to 5 mpg less while towing something behind you. May
not be worth the effort to tow anything bigger than a scooter.


Re: 95 EVC Towing Ability

 

Towing anything over 1500 lbs technically requires trailer brakes. Not
sure how that works with a towed car. You could probably tow a Polo (I
towed a Saturn sedan but don't try to stop quickly), but don't forget
your will get 2 to 5 mpg less while towing something behind you. May
not be worth the effort to tow anything bigger than a scooter.

On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 4:38 PM, Florian <fkahlert@...> wrote:
How about bicylces. Or maybe a 50cc scooter. Sure does the trick.
Florian 03 MVWK

--- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...> wrote:

Gotta love $4 gasoline. Weve gone from 40' diesel pushers towing Jeep
Grand Cherokees to EVC's towing VW Polos.....is this a great country
or what!!

Pete


--- In ev_update@..., "dkottum" <dkottum@> wrote:

We take extended (months) trips with our 95 EVC 5-spd, and find it
an excellent touring
vehicle. But it is not so good as a runabout from the campsite. Too
big and too much fuel,
and the inconvenience of breaking camp. Has anyone experience and
advice on the
possibility of towing a very tiny and light car along on our trips.
(A VW Polo or Toyota IQ
would be cool.) I have seen a towing spec of 4400 lbs for the 95
EVC 5-spd, which is more
than twice what we might need.

Doug Kottum, Battle Lake, MN

"Travel too fast and you miss all you are traveling for." -Louis
L'Amour


Re: headlight chime

 

My '93 definitely never beeped when I left (leave -- cause I just did
it last week) my headlights on. My '03 does beep. Not sure what year
it changed.

On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 3:05 PM, gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:
--- kd4fvn <kd4fvn@...> wrote:
When I bought it the headlights came on when I started the engine. In
tracing down another electrical problem I found a dangling relay and
some added wiring (sloppy installation). Also with the engine running
one of the wires going to the relay got HOT. I finally figured out
that this mysterious relay was giving me the "driving lights".
Sounds like a sloppy hack for DRLs.

The short story is: I pulled the relay and cut and respliced the
wires. Now I have to track down the beepy thing and see if I can make
it work.
My '00 has it but I guess that's no guarantee that older EVs should have had
it.

If you decide to do the always on headlight mod. use a heavy enough wire
and relay. Headlights
pull a lot of amps.

VW's stock wiring is usually 14 gauge but that's arguably a bit thin. I'd
recommend 12 gauge at least.


I would like the ignition to turn on the headlight

felixproulx
 

I have a EVC 95 and I'm going to move to Canada this summer. I know
that to have my EV registered there I have to modify the headlights so
they turn on automatically when I start the car. Does anyone know how
to do that ?
Antoine


Re: Want to Buy: Middle Seat for '95 EVC

forest flanigan
 

The 2002 middle seat is different than the 95. I contacted the person
interested in a 95 and they still want it. So mine will go to her.

Forest

On Thu, May 29, 2008 at 4:58 AM, Todd and Dana <ddc_jtc@...> wrote:

--- I have a 2002 middle seat available IN PA ddc_jtc@...<ddc_jtc%40yahoo.com>

In ev_update@... <ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "forest
flanigan" <creoflan@...> wrote:

I have a middle seat for a 95 EVC . Another person on the list was
looking
at it but she's in NY AND I'm in Northern Ca. I'll check with her --
Write me
off list if your interested

Forest

On Thu, May 22, 2008 at 10:50 AM, alonfw2 <alonfw@...> wrote:

If you have one or know of any please let me know. We just had
a baby
and would like him closer to us when we are out and about.

Alon :)






Re: Rear Torsion Bar Loose

 

Garrett, did you install HDs or regular?

What do you guys recommend for the EV Weekender? I rarely drive with
it ladened down either. I'm use to a sporty ride in my cars. The
current OEM shocks are not bouncy, but certainly soft.


Re: Check Engine light mystery

dave_king_ev
 

What was the code that the computer stored? Not being able to figure
out what caused the code is one thing, but your mechanic still should
have told you what code was stored.

(Otherwise, whether or not the engine goes into a rich mode depends on
the problem causing the code. Not all problems result in the rich
mode. Most don't.)

--- In ev_update@..., "cactuspaws" <awaytome@...> wrote:

I have a 2002 EV Weekender. A few months ago the check engine light
came on and stayed on till I was able to get it in to the shop a
month later. Miraculously, the light went off some time before I
reached the shop and didn't come on when the mechanic took it in. The
computer showed that it had been on but they couldn't determine what
caused it. I was told that when it comes on the engine is running rich
so gas mileage is reduced but there is no damage. I left without having
any more diagnostics performed and the light stayed off for several
months... then came on again a few days ago.

Anyone have an idea what might be going on? I don't really want to
make the 35 mile drive to the shop to run another inconclusive
diagnostic, but I'm not happy about it running rich when gas is so
expensive, and I worry that something awful is happening to the
engine. Is this a quirk anyone is familiar with?

Karen


Re: Check Engine light mystery

Miles Koppersmith
 

A typical cause is not putting your gas cap on tight enough. After you finally get it tighten it will generally take a number of start and stop cycles for the computer to recognize the problem is resolved and then reset the check engine light so that it will turn off. If it does not go off by itself before your next service just have them check it next time you have it in for service. Or you could stop by AutoZone and they will read the code for you for free.

Hope this helps.

----- Original Message -----
From: "cactuspaws" <awaytome@...>
To: <ev_update@...>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 2:03 PM
Subject: [ev_update] Check Engine light mystery


I have a 2002 EV Weekender. A few months ago the check engine light
came on and stayed on till I was able to get it in to the shop a
month later. Miraculously, the light went off some time before I
reached the shop and didn't come on when the mechanic took it in. The
computer showed that it had been on but they couldn't determine what
caused it. I was told that when it comes on the engine is running rich
so gas mileage is reduced but there is no damage. I left without having
any more diagnostics performed and the light stayed off for several
months... then came on again a few days ago.

Anyone have an idea what might be going on? I don't really want to
make the 35 mile drive to the shop to run another inconclusive
diagnostic, but I'm not happy about it running rich when gas is so
expensive, and I worry that something awful is happening to the
engine. Is this a quirk anyone is familiar with?

Karen


------------------------------------

To unsubscribe from this group, send a message to
mailto:ev_update-unsubscribe@...
Yahoo! Groups Links