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for all, the events of the past 36 hours have been
overwhelming. I am
sure there are people on this list that have been lost or
who have lost
loved ones. The everyday issues that we tend to whine
about seem so
mundane, and trivial now.

All that aside, I drove into a hole and blew out an
Agilis. I cannot
find a replacement. Does anyone have a spare tire or 2
with decent
tread that they would be willing to sell? (my spare is a
goodyear).

Peace, and hope --
Kate
93 MV



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--- In ev_update@y..., "Vance, Beaumont W." <Beaumont.Vance@v...>
wrote:

I have 101k on my 95 EVC> According to an Audi mechanic I talked to

they

will run 300k easily. He said that it is easy to find used Audi 5

cylinder

engines because they outlast the auto body.

I know I'm replying to an old message but...I was told that the Audi
2.5L is a truck motor used in Europe. Is this motor easily found in
North American wrecking yards? If so, what vehicles had it?

...lars

Just looked at a Westfalia this evening. My wife and I were
originally planning on spending around CAD$8000 (USD$5000) on a
Vanagon and then doing a motor swap but came across a '92 Eurovan
Westy for CAD$19,000 (USD$11,875) tonight. It was in immaculate
condition and has 185,000km (115,000 mi) on it.

Every looked good except the motor (Audi 2.5L) made a kind of a
ticking noise. It wasn't exactly a tick sound but similar...maybe a
small exhaust header leak...or maybe it was normal, I'm not sure.
When it first started up, the motor sounded a bit noisy (remotely
similar to a diesel) but smoothed out with 1 or 2 seconds. Now, I've
heard that '93 EVs had a piston slap problem and I am wondering if
that's what I heard on this '92. Opinions?

If it is a piston slap problem, would VW provide a cheap replacement
motor if I'm the 2nd or 3rd owner? Ok, stop laughing, it was worth a
shot.

Is the piston slap problem serious or just an annoyance? Some Jeep
4.0L motors had the same problem but it wasn't supposed to adversely
affect the motor's lifespan (although I've been skeptical).

Anything else I need to watch out for? I might have another look at
it tomorrow in the daylight.

Oh, I do all the work on my wife's Subaru and my Jeep YJ. They're
both really easy to work on. The EV's engine compartment looked very
crowded. Anyone have opinions on that? Is it a real bear to work
with?

When does the timing belt need to be changed and how ugly is the
job? What about the water pump?

One more question: how many miles or km can I expect to get from the
2.5L motor? Has anyone swapped in a VR6? How difficult was the job?

Thanks in advance for taking the time to answer my newbie questions.



...lars

Ok, I did some checking and repairs.
The 2 resistors under the left side headlight where broken (old),
Then the auxilary water pump was ceases because of a leaking sensor
wired to it. Both were replaced.
My 50amp fuses are not blowing anynmore.

Now I'm getting to the A/C that is not working.
I tried this afternoon to turn on the contact without starting the
engine and turn on the A/C.
The front fans on the radiator are not starting so I conclude I

to go through the checks for the 5 relays on top of the left side
headlamp.

Can someone confirm that this will be the 1st step.
Again, my A/C is not starting, the Compressor is not engaging,
and the fans are not starting.

Thanks
Christian

--- In ev_update@y..., "Christian R." <drz400@c...> wrote:

Thank you for the precious information
I will go through the checking this weekend.
Christian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
To: <ev_update@y...>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans

Christian,

Here's a short summary of where the fans and coils and controls

are

located

on your EV, and basically what they do. Remember, these things

work by

moving HEAT around (you don't move "cold" around). You making

something

hotter by moving heat in, and you make something cooler by

heat

out.

Fans (two) -- under the hood:

There are two fans under the hood. They work together at all

times and

run

at three different speeds (between each fan and the engine is a

plastic

shutter system than opens and closes by a mechanical lever

controlled by

expanding/contracting wax). The three speeds are controlled by

set of

relays (behind the driver's side headlight) that determine

circuit

supplies the fans with current. Those relays send current

through a pair

of

heavy-duty resistors (under the headlight behind an exterior

panel) to set

the various speeds. The entire circuit is protected by three

fuses -- one

inside the EV on the fuse panel (controlling current to the

relays), and

the

other two in the small plastic housing behind the headlights

(controlling

current to each fan). Practically every component mentioned

above will

need

to be repaired/replaced at some point.


Coils (two) -- under the hood:

In front of of the two fans are two coils. One is the

which

moves

heat out a mixture of water and anti-freeze for the engine and

passenger

compartment heaters, and the other is the evaporator, which

heat out

of R134a refrigerant for the air conditioning system. The coils

themselves

will quite possibly last the entire life of the vehicle. There

are a

bunch

of control/sensor/sender components along the coolant lines and

along the

refrigerant lines that will eventually fail and will then need

be

diagnosed and repaired. The lines and hoses connecting all

stuff

together are generally very reliable, but there are a few hoses

and

fittings

(just a few) that are known to fail.



Fans (two or three) -- in the cab:

There is a large interior fan under the dash that force

compartment air and/or fresh air through the coils under the

dash. There

is

also a fan on the floor forcing air through another small coil,

and a fan

in

the back (if you have rear air conditioning) forcing air

yet

another

coil and distributing it through the roof vents. All or these

fans are

multiple speed (determined by resistors) and are protected by

fuses on the

fuse panel. The large interior fan can suffer bearing failure,

and

resistor

packs can fail too.



Coils (three or four) -- in the cab:

Under the dash and near the large interior fan are two coils.

One is the

heater coil, containing a mixture of water and anti-freeze,

moves

heat

into the cab when the 4-speed fan is running and red/blue

temperature

controls are set the right way. The other coil is a condenser,

containing

R134a refrigerant, which moves heat out of the cab when the 4-

speed fan

is

running and red/blue temperature controls are set the right

There is

also a small coil containing water/anti-freeze underneath the

floor near

center of the rear cab for moving heat into the rear. Finally,

if you

have

the rear air conditioning option then there is another coil (a

condenser

containing r134a) for moving heat out of the rear passenger

compartment.

Again, the hoses, lines, fittings and control gizmos connecting

all this

stuff together might fail, but the coils themselves will most

likely last

the entire life of the vehicle.

I have 101k on my 95 EVC> According to an Audi mechanic I talked to

will run 300k easily. He said that it is easy to find used Audi 5

engines because they outlast the auto body.

Thank you for the precious information
I will go through the checking this weekend.
Christian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
To: <ev_update@y...>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans

Christian,

Here's a short summary of where the fans and coils and controls

located

on your EV, and basically what they do. Remember, these things

moving HEAT around (you don't move "cold" around). You making

hotter by moving heat in, and you make something cooler by moving

out.

Fans (two) -- under the hood:

There are two fans under the hood. They work together at all

run

at three different speeds (between each fan and the engine is a

shutter system than opens and closes by a mechanical lever

expanding/contracting wax). The three speeds are controlled by a

relays (behind the driver's side headlight) that determine which

supplies the fans with current. Those relays send current

of

heavy-duty resistors (under the headlight behind an exterior

the various speeds. The entire circuit is protected by three

inside the EV on the fuse panel (controlling current to the

the

other two in the small plastic housing behind the headlights

current to each fan). Practically every component mentioned

need

to be repaired/replaced at some point.


Coils (two) -- under the hood:

In front of of the two fans are two coils. One is the radiator,

moves

heat out a mixture of water and anti-freeze for the engine and

compartment heaters, and the other is the evaporator, which moves

of R134a refrigerant for the air conditioning system. The coils

themselves

will quite possibly last the entire life of the vehicle. There

bunch

of control/sensor/sender components along the coolant lines and

refrigerant lines that will eventually fail and will then need to

diagnosed and repaired. The lines and hoses connecting all this

together are generally very reliable, but there are a few hoses

fittings

(just a few) that are known to fail.



Fans (two or three) -- in the cab:

There is a large interior fan under the dash that force passenger
compartment air and/or fresh air through the coils under the

is

also a fan on the floor forcing air through another small coil,

in

the back (if you have rear air conditioning) forcing air through

another

coil and distributing it through the roof vents. All or these

multiple speed (determined by resistors) and are protected by

fuse panel. The large interior fan can suffer bearing failure,

resistor

packs can fail too.



Coils (three or four) -- in the cab:

Under the dash and near the large interior fan are two coils.

heater coil, containing a mixture of water and anti-freeze, which

heat

into the cab when the 4-speed fan is running and red/blue

controls are set the right way. The other coil is a condenser,

R134a refrigerant, which moves heat out of the cab when the 4-

is

running and red/blue temperature controls are set the right way.

also a small coil containing water/anti-freeze underneath the

center of the rear cab for moving heat into the rear. Finally,

have

the rear air conditioning option then there is another coil (a

containing r134a) for moving heat out of the rear passenger

Again, the hoses, lines, fittings and control gizmos connecting

stuff together might fail, but the coils themselves will most

the entire life of the vehicle.

Long time lurker, first time poster...
I know this has probably been addressed before but...
I would like to know if any of you good folks can tell
me how to check and reset (if required) the EGR light
on a 1997 Eurovan-Camper (VR6). On my late 80's
Vanagons it was a simple black box on the speedo cable
with a little hole to stick a pencil in - push the
pencil in and the button will make a click sound and
is reset. Had to do that every 30K if I remember
correctly. Heck if I can find a similar setup on this
Eurovan!
So here is the deal, at 48.8K (and change) the
"check-engine" light comes. It is running cool... I
pull over and check oil, leaks, water, etc. - all is
o.k. so I drive it to the dealership - Hueberger in
Colorado Springs, CO - they won't even look at it for
a
week :-/ (terrible service) So I set an appointment.
In the meantime I would like to check that EGR / OXY
to see if it is a simple reset until I can get it in
the shop. YES I WILL GET IT LOOKED AT. BTW - I just
had a smog test on it - passed with ease.
Thanks in advance for the help.
Al Ferguson

__________________________________________________
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Thank you for the precious information
I will go through the checking this weekend.
Christian
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael G. McCarthy" <mgmccarthy@c...>
To: <ev_update@y...>
Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2001 4:01 AM
Subject: Re: [ev_update] Re: 93 evmv cooling fans

Christian,

Here's a short summary of where the fans and coils and controls

located

on your EV, and basically what they do. Remember, these things

moving HEAT around (you don't move "cold" around). You making

hotter by moving heat in, and you make something cooler by moving

out.

Fans (two) -- under the hood:

There are two fans under the hood. They work together at all

run

at three different speeds (between each fan and the engine is a

shutter system than opens and closes by a mechanical lever

expanding/contracting wax). The three speeds are controlled by a

relays (behind the driver's side headlight) that determine which

supplies the fans with current. Those relays send current

of

heavy-duty resistors (under the headlight behind an exterior

the various speeds. The entire circuit is protected by three

inside the EV on the fuse panel (controlling current to the

the

other two in the small plastic housing behind the headlights

current to each fan). Practically every component mentioned

need

to be repaired/replaced at some point.


Coils (two) -- under the hood:

In front of of the two fans are two coils. One is the radiator,

moves

heat out a mixture of water and anti-freeze for the engine and

compartment heaters, and the other is the evaporator, which moves

of R134a refrigerant for the air conditioning system. The coils

themselves

will quite possibly last the entire life of the vehicle. There

bunch

of control/sensor/sender components along the coolant lines and

refrigerant lines that will eventually fail and will then need to

diagnosed and repaired. The lines and hoses connecting all this

together are generally very reliable, but there are a few hoses

fittings

(just a few) that are known to fail.



Fans (two or three) -- in the cab:

There is a large interior fan under the dash that force passenger
compartment air and/or fresh air through the coils under the

is

also a fan on the floor forcing air through another small coil,

in

the back (if you have rear air conditioning) forcing air through

another

coil and distributing it through the roof vents. All or these

multiple speed (determined by resistors) and are protected by

fuse panel. The large interior fan can suffer bearing failure,

resistor

packs can fail too.



Coils (three or four) -- in the cab:

Under the dash and near the large interior fan are two coils.

heater coil, containing a mixture of water and anti-freeze, which

heat

into the cab when the 4-speed fan is running and red/blue

controls are set the right way. The other coil is a condenser,

R134a refrigerant, which moves heat out of the cab when the 4-

is

running and red/blue temperature controls are set the right way.

also a small coil containing water/anti-freeze underneath the

center of the rear cab for moving heat into the rear. Finally,

have

the rear air conditioning option then there is another coil (a

containing r134a) for moving heat out of the rear passenger

Again, the hoses, lines, fittings and control gizmos connecting

stuff together might fail, but the coils themselves will most

the entire life of the vehicle.

Hi All:

I just notice lately that the temp GAUGE has start touching 230
degrees. I like to solicit opinions to as what might be wrong in

kind of scenario.

My car is a 93 EV GL. Any inputs is highly appreciated.


Thank you!

JC

Dear List,

I am looking for suggestions for a lightweight flatbed

tow behind a Eurovan. Contents will be a 250 lb ultra light
airplane. Fuselage about 16 feet long, wheel width about 60

two wings each about 13 feet long to be carried. I am hoping to

a trailer in Kansas and tow it back to Canada with the aircraft I

to buy in Emporia KS.

Reg