I finally had a chance to get the 1993 Eurovan Weekender MV on ramps and do a test drive.

What I found is two obvious leaks when the Eurovan was at running temp only.? At cool temp, no obvious leak was detectable.

So I drove the van for about 15 minutes.? Toward the end of the drive, I started to see fumes (coolant evaporating off the engine).? That had/has me worried.

But luckily, I was close to home.? Parked it back on the ramps and took a look.

First coolant leak - under the Eurovan, near the fuel filter -?
I'm a bit confused as to what this mysterious hose/pipe is for.? Wondering if it went to a rear heater/exchanger.? So odd.

Second coolant leak - seems to be coming from the connections on the radiator -??
I intend to take the grill off to get a better look.? Assuming it is probably best to just replace the entire radiator, unless something can easily be fixed.

For my 93 EV, the solution was just replacing a faulty door lock actuator.

later model how to -?

a hack method -?https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaOL6XeX8JU

?On mine I’ve solved this prob for about .50 cents with a few—strategically placed and of strategic length—self-tapping?screws coupled w/ modest fender washers. If aesthetics were of vital concern the heads could be capped w the OE vanity screw caps and glued on if necessary. Last I checked Go Westy sells these.?

--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
492k mi :-)

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开云体育

I had a similar issue on my ‘97 - noted that the sliding door inner panel was slightly loose and interfering with the up/down locking mechanism, causing it to cycle endlessly. Took it off to see that the majority of the glued plastic clips had failed and were no longer holding the panel to the door. Working on a more permanent fix.?

On Mon, Nov 21, 2022 at 01:01 PM, Justin Soares wrote:

that door has “master” control of all the other doors unlike most (all?) of the other doors

Depends on the year.? Those that have the central locking module should have a 'master'.? The older ones don't, they all follow each other, with locked being the default.
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Duane
05HD Rialta
220K Miles

Also that door has “master” control of all the other doors unlike most (all?) of the other doors.?
--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
490k mi :-)

Agree w Duanne. 9/10 times it’s the drivers door so I’d start there. This door gets the most use of any of the doors for obvious reasons.?

--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd
492k mi :-)

On Mon, Nov 21, 2022 at 12:36 PM, Steve Krival wrote:

all of the latches in all of the doors continue to go up and down over and over again very rapidly, as if the vehicle is haunted by a ghost, until I close the door I opened, whereupon all of the latches lock in the down position

The 'ghost' is likely a wiring problem.? Unfortunately, it could be wiring to any of the locks, so it will require some extended troubleshooting.? I'd start at the looms going into the doors.? Locking after you close the door, as well as the up/down while it's open, are related to the wiring.
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Duane
05HD Rialta
220K Miles

Opening any locked door causes the latch to open and then close automatically within 5 seconds. If I grab the handle and open the door before the latch automatically closes I can enter the car. However, all of the latches in all of the doors continue to go up and down over and over again very rapidly, as if the vehicle is haunted by a ghost, until I close the door I opened, whereupon all of the latches lock in the down position. Any ideas about what is causing this happen?

Hello All, I have a 2002 VW Eurovan . About a month ago the dreaded? P1347 code came up and it wont idle at all, checked wiring and replaced sensors, no change.
I have done the timing chain before about 120K miles ago and know the task at hand, along with i have no garage and winter is upon us.
long story short I started and decided to bail on the project. Im selling as is whole not parting out. The van is complete and drove very well before the engine problem.
transmission was rebuilt about 60K miles ago and fluid replaced 20K miles ago. Since rebuilt trans has an oil cooler and the oil temp stays at a good temp even when climbing mountains
and loaded. has A8 Audi wheels with good tires, stainless exhaust, good cat, recent sensors, recent cooling fans and resistors, engine in van is a crate engine with aprox 120K on it, van has 220K,? AC works great,
reworked dash cross member to fit double DIN radio,wiring harness for driver side door rebuilt,recent ignition switch, new master cylinder, recent coil packs,
rebuilt HVAC system vent flaps? many extra parts included not limited to new timing chain kit, torque converter, coil pack, trans oil, oil filters, trans wiring harness, interior parts including heating/cooling control unit,
and more. email me here or txt me @ 2016445889
asking 4,000

What year EV?

Where are you located?

What kind of service do you need?

I have an ex-VW service employee that I use.? Also, Paradise Motorsports (used to be VW Paradise).? Quite a few coastal shops, but they are spendy.

I have used Kotter VW in Escondido and they have always been solid. There is also another in Escondido that others swear by but I cannot personally vouch for them.?

Furnace removal described within:??

Any recommendations for service in the San Diego area?

I've removed the furnace and the combustion box is rusty, as is the air intake tube. I can patch with foil tape. The installation manual suggest blowing compressed air through the combustion chamber. Is this worth doing? I would need to work out how to get the combustion chamber out of the cabinet.
Has anyone replaced their furnace with another unit? Expensive I expect. I am in the UK so would probably want to find a replacement here. ?
Any thoughts gratefully received.

So many coolant hoses....

I have found some hard to get hoses at the bus depot:?
Be sure to check all the plastic hose flanges, they are very prone to failure.?
At least they are still easily available.

I replaced?the oil cooler hose in my 93 a few years back and the transmission cooler lines were evidently replaced by the previous owner.
I developed a bunch of leaks last year, thankfully just after getting back from a huge southwest trip so I had the luxury of working on it while at home. Biggest leak was a no-longer-available plastic connector with sensor in the radiator hose but vanagain had them in stock. Decided to go ahead and replace all the hoses, flanges and sensors while I had the coolant drained, seems like they would all be getting ready to fail after 30 years and 250K miles. Worth the effort for the peace of mind. And bonus, temp gauge is working again

I know dash light blinks with low coolant (sensor in the reservoir), lots of troubleshooting info out there if you need help.

Good luck!
Scott