Hello, Curtis,

I don’t recommend aiming a parts cannon to “fix” stuff unless you know the part you're buying is the fix. But if you already have a known-good part available (free), then it's reasonable to swap the part.

Based on the symptoms you provided… and understanding I’m only guessing based on my experience.

And also understanding for most of stuff I’m suggesting here, you’ll need a scope, a multimeter, and some experience or someone who knows what to look for and/or how to interpret waveform data. If you’re a gung-ho? DIY’er, then jump on the internet. Lots of excellent video tutorials available by some amazing auto techs who willingly share their expertise with everyone.

1. Vacuum leak (unmetered air) - as rpm's and run-time increase, the ride smooths out. The engine gets hotter, and heat tends to minimize or nearly "fix" small vacuum leaks at cylinder heads and valve cover and other places so the ECU doesn’t go bonkers with unmetered air and flood the fuel injectors. So check for leaks at egr, pcv (sticking pcv can cause idle and other performance issues), air flow meter, brake booster (although the booster can be trickier to diagnose), any place there’s a grommet, hose, gasket or mating surface on engine. Really easy and cheap to diy test for many vacuum leaks with a spray bottle of water. Lots of excellent videos online. Go deeper using a vacuum gauge and/or smoke machine. Easy to setup.

2. Fuel pressure regulator is getting “stuck” but gets happy at higher rpm. Many regulators have a rubber o-ring seal. Sometimes those get smooshy-brittle and leak. You’ll need to test fuel pump pressure as other posters suggested and check before/after regulator and filter. A related issue is intermittent voltage drop to the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay. If power is being restricted to the fuel pump, the pump won’t pump the correct pressure or volume of fuel. In your case, most of the performance issue is at lower rpm, not highway driving…so inclined to think may not be the pump pressure or volume per se unless…

3. Fuel pump is ready to go – you’ll need pump specs, a scope and a multimeter to really test this, maybe a little experience as well to understand/interpret waveforms and because you’ll be checking grounds and power from the engine bay to the fuel pump.

4. Fuel injectors – really need a scope on these and check against ignition spark and crank. Are they the original 140,000 mile injectors? Ever been replaced/removed/cleaned?

5. MAF sensor – needs cleaning or needs replacing. Even with a scope this is a difficult sensor to troubleshoot. You’ll need a scope, multimeter, experience. And you’ll need to perform drive cycles. Even then, it can be a crapshoot, especially if no codes.?

6. IAC – Idle Air Control valve needs cleaning or is faulty. Not sure if your vehicle has one.

7. PCV sticking sometimes but related to air leak. Easy to check. Make sure to check grommet if it has one. If it’s rubber, it likes to leak. So check for vacuum leak. Don’t buy a new pcv if the installed pcv checks okay. That’s money you can save for a cheap burger. If you have to buy new, then make sure to get the grommet as well. ?

8. ECT. Faulty Engine Coolant Temp sensor. If temp sensor misreports, then ECU adjusts fuel because it thinks the engine isn’t running at proper temp (adds fuel if it thinks it’s “cold” which is part of reason why rpm higher on startup). Easy to test…but a real pain to get out sometimes. This is a rare issue.

If I were the tech, I’d be asking questions and looking at stuff:

How long have these symptoms been present (when did you notice and why)?
What time of day?
Are symptoms present all the time or intermittent?

What color is the exhaust at idle? After sitting all night or day? At running temp? After driving for 15 minutes on the highway?

Any fuel smell in the engine compartment?

Any wetness near the fuel injectors or fuel pressure regulator?

How’s gas mileage?

Any strange noises from the engine compartment?

What’s your air filter look like?
Battery at full charge and getting charged properly?

Were any other parts replaced before or besides the computer?

What happens when you stomp on the accelerator (wot – wide open throttle)?

What happens to rpm when you turn on a/c (if you have a/c)?

Surprising the ECU replacement “fixed” anything. It's more typical for something to get "fixed" unknowingly when a tech is banging around in the engine bay -?if the stalling is still fixed as you say – excellent!. Replacing an ECU is a big deal. It’s more typical for techs not to perform a proper drive-cycle relearn pattern when an ECU is replaced. So what you get is the default performance protocol from the ECU until the ECU adjusts itself for the signals from input/output sensors and then sends its corrections to some sensors…so from air flow to fuel to spark, the big three of any combustion engine and from evap system. Performance can change after the default system is adjusted real-time from sensors.?

PPE
* a big piece of cardboard (folds in half, stored under the rear bed). Great if you need to sit on the ground or slide under the van for any repairs.
* long-sleeve shirt you don't care about
* disposable gloves

Tools
* A long breaker bar with 19mm socket for changing tires (the VW spare tire lug bolt wrench is quite short).
* right-angle screwdriver to change the ignition switch (see below)

Gadgets
* OBD-2 scanner (or laptop with VCDS or VCDS-Lite and a USB to OBD2 adapter)

Info
* a laptop with 15+ years of archived [eurovanupdate] messages!
* don't trust the user's manual or mechanics - I had one trip almost ruined by "failed windows" where the problem was a simple blown fuse, which was mis-documented in the user manual and by a VW dealer.

Parts
* ignition switch - common failure point that causes a lot of weird electrical problems. Hard to change w/o the right tool (see above)

Dual-Use
* leveling blocks can be used as impromptu jack-stands (if you need to get under the van to work, don't trust only the VW jack)

Technique
* for driving up steep grades in the heat, learn the difference between gears where the transmission torque converter is locked up vs. slipping. The non-locked up gears will generate a lot more heat; better to shift down one gear instead.
* if you have air conditioner troubles, know the sounds & signs of impending failure and how to turn off the AC compressor - this can save your serpentine belt

On Sat, Aug 13, 2022 at 01:26 PM, stevekrival wrote:

What other useful tools should I consider?

I've found that on my Rialta, the Eurovan part anyway, as long as I have 13mm and 10mm sockets with wrench, a couple of screwdrivers, and a big pair of pliers, I can handle about anything.? There's always gonna be that oddball thing, but they're hard to prepare for no matter what.

I've also been known to make a 'day trip' to help out someone in need, so you might consider this group as an extra 'tool'.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
220K Miles

开云体育

At 86kMiles- not much should need replacing. I have 150k on my 02EVC- and I usually take a few more spares. Have spare fuses - all amperage's- maybe a spare serpentine belt- but they usually last 100k or more. I usually have my Bentley repair manual on my computer. We've driven from NM to NY many times in ours and never really had a breakdown (except for one flat tire). Having a 12 volt air compressor came in handy for that. Patched the tire with a plug- pumped it up and drove to the next town to get it properly repaired.

Good luck

sam

02 EVC

I am hitting the road in my 2001 Eurovan Camper (86K Miles) for an extended road trip. Which tools and spare parts would you take with you? In the past I have taken: 1. A canvas repair kit; 2. various screwdrivers and wrenches 3. Tire iron, jack, and gloves, good spare tire; 4. freon leak detector and yellow glasses; 5. error code detector. What other useful tools should I consider?

Thank you, Josh!

Thank you, Janet!

The belt could easily be worn out. I would also check the condition of the tensioner and all the idler bearings, as well as the AC clutch bearing and the water pump.

Usually a squealing belt means it's either worn out completely, or the tensioner is shot, or something being driven by the belt is about to lock up.

Fan belt?

Our 95 Eurovan has begun making a screeching noise when beginning to accelerate.? It is intermittient in that sometimes it does not happen at all and, so? far,? tends to disappear after hitting about 25 miles per hour.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
Joel
95 Eurovan (Bennie)

Last Update?: Well, at the end, it turned out that my green light was Always on when I was pressing the gas selector on the mainboard. A melting pot of troubles !!! But, I had the chance to be helped by a very knowledgeable member here, and I name Sam Letzring who helped me so much that I was finally able to solve my problems. Now, the fridge is working like a ‘NEW ONE’ on gas/electric and DC. Congrats to Sam for his precious help......and to all the others here who took time to give me some clues !!!

?

Cheers,

?

Yves

‘97贰痴颁

Canada

jhodnetts, I don't think you answered Cole's question.? What do you want?? Also, you might also say the mileage, does the bike rack and storage container convey, got 15 or 16 inch tires, tire condition, poptop condition?? Little more info is helpful.? v/r,

Mike

For a van with a bad trans and needing work I’d probably take that and run.

Good luck with the sale

Someone has already offered me $7500. Lots of interest. Have a great day,

James

So what do you consider a fair price ?

We have a 1993 Eurovan with a manual transmission. The good, engine in great working order. No coolant leaks, barely any oil leaks. Suspension is good. Tires are good. Pop top has a couple of small rips, works well. Barely any rust. Issues are manual transmission is on the way out. Radio has a short and pulled the fuse to stop that. AC is weak but works. This Van tons of potential. No low ballers.