Bunting on cabin filter housing
Looks like a critter got to the fuzzy stuff covering the cabin filter housing on my 02 weekender. I know other folks here have had this problem and I want to know what everyone is using to recover the housing. Anyone use some cloth thing like the oem stuff? Spencer
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On Tue, Aug 17, 2021 at 10:58 AM Paul Lugo < pelbikes@...> wrote: I bought the E-code headlight Kit with "deluxe harness and relays" from Bus Depot (see ) last year but never got around to installing them. We are now going to sell our 93 Weekender and would like to sell this kit. I don't see a "for sale" section in this group so am wondering if it is OK to offer items for sale here.
Thanks,
Paul Lugo
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I bought the E-code headlight Kit with "deluxe harness and relays" from Bus Depot (see ) last year but never got around to installing them. We are now going to sell our 93 Weekender and would like to sell this kit. I don't see a "for sale" section in this group so am wondering if it is OK to offer items for sale here.
Thanks,
Paul Lugo
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Thank you very much, got it off and fixed locking issue
On Monday, August 16, 2021, 02:31:20 PM MDT, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
The sliding door is held on with a number of plastic press-to-fit connectors. One side is glued to the door panel, the other side connects to holes in the metal of the door. ?Removal is simply putting something thin between the panel and the metal and prying outward. ?
On my van, the glue holding one side came loose on about 75% of the pieces, and I had to glue them back on. ?Use a really strong glue or epoxy. ?I found a hot glue gun was not strong enough. ?
You can see 4 of the connectors in this picture, all of them came un-stuck:
On Aug 16, 2021, at 12:28 PM, Douglas Peterson via <dpeterson253@...> wrote:
Is there a video on how to remove the door panel anywhere? ?Following the Groups suggestions it appears all is working, lock moves up and?down, it just wont lock.
On Wednesday, July 14, 2021, 08:59:59 PM MDT, Douglas Peterson via <dpeterson253@...> wrote:
thanks
On Tuesday, July 13, 2021, 10:33:32 AM MDT, Carl Hansen <carl_hansen@...> wrote:
Locks are electric, not vacuum. ?Pull the door card and git to it. ?
Small white plastic clips
get brittle, levers disconnect, the electric pins (4) can get corroded.
Be careful pulling the door card off.
Ch
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On Aug 16, 2021, at 1:35 PM, Michael Diehr <md03@...> wrote:
?and here's a photo showing the back side - locations of all the fasteners have been circled (some are present, some came unglued and fell off): <PastedGraphic-2.tiff>
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and here's a photo showing the back side - locations of all the fasteners have been circled (some are present, some came unglued and fell off): 
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The sliding door is held on with a number of plastic press-to-fit connectors. One side is glued to the door panel, the other side connects to holes in the metal of the door. ?Removal is simply putting something thin between the panel and the metal and prying outward. ?
On my van, the glue holding one side came loose on about 75% of the pieces, and I had to glue them back on. ?Use a really strong glue or epoxy. ?I found a hot glue gun was not strong enough. ?
You can see 4 of the connectors in this picture, all of them came un-stuck:
On Aug 16, 2021, at 12:28 PM, Douglas Peterson via <dpeterson253@...> wrote:
Is there a video on how to remove the door panel anywhere? ?Following the Groups suggestions it appears all is working, lock moves up and?down, it just wont lock.
On Wednesday, July 14, 2021, 08:59:59 PM MDT, Douglas Peterson via <dpeterson253@...> wrote:
thanks
On Tuesday, July 13, 2021, 10:33:32 AM MDT, Carl Hansen <carl_hansen@...> wrote:
Locks are electric, not vacuum. ?Pull the door card and git to it. ?
Small white plastic clips
get brittle, levers disconnect, the electric pins (4) can get corroded.
Be careful pulling the door card off.
Ch
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Is there a video on how to remove the door panel anywhere? ?Following the Groups suggestions it appears all is working, lock moves up and down, it just wont lock.
On Wednesday, July 14, 2021, 08:59:59 PM MDT, Douglas Peterson via groups.io <dpeterson253@...> wrote:
On Tuesday, July 13, 2021, 10:33:32 AM MDT, Carl Hansen <carl_hansen@...> wrote:
Locks are electric, not vacuum.? Pull the door card and git to it.?
Small white plastic clips
get brittle, levers disconnect, the electric pins (4) can get corroded.
Be careful pulling the door card off.
Ch
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One of my EVs has a rusty hood latch cable that needs to be replaced. It caused the same problem where it wouldn't return enough to allow the hood to latch properly.? After some lubing and working it, I was able to juuuusssttt get it to latch.?
It could be that the battery install involved pushing or pulling on the release cable since it goes right over the top of the battery and could have been in the way.? I'd focus on the cable.
Good luck,
Kent
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Alan,
Another possibility is that the battery was installed in such a way as to engage the hood unlock cable, so that the latch is always in the unlocked position.? It does indicate that an inspection of the battery installation area should be examined.? I'll go out and take a look at my 2000 GLS.? My battery is currently not installed.
v/r,
Mike?
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On Sat, Aug 14, 2021 at 01:42 PM, alanbragg01730 wrote:
For whatever it's worth, I should note that this started happening after a local vw shop replaced the battery.
A somewhat remote possibility is that they damaged the hood release cable, preventing it from releasing completely. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 209K Miles
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sometimes the mechanism in the hood needs clean?and lubed so that the spring in it can move it back to where it started.? It can get sticky and stay in the "open" position.
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There is no obvious connection between the battery replacement and the hood latch.? If trying to engage the second latch meets with a hard stop, it's possible that the second latch somehow got engaged.? If so, you can manually release it.? If the hood just doesn't engage, the latch may need to be lubricated or somehow got miss-adjusted.? You can adjust the attachment point using the nut that holds it in place.? I hope this helps.
Jim Loomis
2002 EVC
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Dropping the hood will only engage the first latch hook, Pushing again does not complete the latching process.
Got any suggestions?
For whatever it's worth, I should note that this started happening after a local vw shop replaced the battery.
Anyone have a diagram of the latch assembly?
Alan Bragg
Bedford MA
Original owner
200K miles
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Re: Jump starting battery
Some good ideas. Thank you.
Paula
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On 08/12/2021 8:09 AM Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
Duane wrote:
It is possible (though definitely bad practice!) to connect a
lead-acid battery backwards.
I know of one fellow that did that on a 2000 Rialta.? It immediately
blew the 175 amp alternator fuse. Yes; a charged battery will do this for sure! The fuse saves you from
worse problems.
But a discharged battery can't deliver enough current to blow the fuse.
That's what "sets the stage" for this sort of problem.
If you install a dead battery backwards, the fuse doesn't blow. So you
then charge it, either with an external charger, or by jump-starting and
then letting the alternator continue charging the reversed battery.
It's an unlikely scenario, but a possibility. I mentioned several others
in my previous post. I'm trying to list all the possibilities, since we
really don't have much to go on, and can't eliminate anything.
Lee Hart
--
We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for
the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity.
-- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes")
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: Jump starting battery
Duane wrote: It is possible (though definitely bad practice!) to connect a
lead-acid battery backwards.
I know of one fellow that did that on a 2000 Rialta.? It immediately blew the 175 amp alternator fuse. Yes; a charged battery will do this for sure! The fuse saves you from worse problems. But a discharged battery can't deliver enough current to blow the fuse. That's what "sets the stage" for this sort of problem. If you install a dead battery backwards, the fuse doesn't blow. So you then charge it, either with an external charger, or by jump-starting and then letting the alternator continue charging the reversed battery. It's an unlikely scenario, but a possibility. I mentioned several others in my previous post. I'm trying to list all the possibilities, since we really don't have much to go on, and can't eliminate anything. Lee Hart -- We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity. -- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes") -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: Jump starting battery
On Wed, Aug 11, 2021 at 02:22 PM, Lee Hart wrote:
It is possible (though definitely bad practice!) to connect a lead-acid battery backwards.
I know of one fellow that did that on a 2000 Rialta.? It immediately blew the 175 amp alternator fuse. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 209K Miles
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Re: Jump starting battery
Paula Hyman wrote: Thank you for your response. Would a battery installed in reverse operate perfectly fine for
months and then not work? Would it be able to be jump started? Hi Paula, It's not easy to reverse it. If someone puts a fully charged battery in backwards, it's likely that sparks will fly! It's likely to blow fuses, or melt wires, or kill electronics. But the usual way this happens is a) battery runs dead, b) battery is removed and charged out of the vehicle BACKWARDS (with the + and - reversed). The battery will actually charge up backwards; but will have very little amphour capacity and very short life. Such a battery will still work, but poorly. Instead of maybe a minute of cranking power, it can only crank an engine for a couple seconds. Now, there are also other possible things to check as well. 1. Maybe the alternator wasn't installed correctly, and isn't working. The van may have been running on just the battery weeks. You needed to "jump start" it only when it finally ran down too far to start it. 2. The old battery might have been damaged when the alternator failed. If you're still using the old battery, it might have finally gave out. 3. If you replaced both the battery and alternator, they might have been installed correctly, but suffered from "infant mortality". Maybe 1 out of 100 new things we buy are defective or fail soon, because manufacturers often skimp on testing to save money. ("It worked for one second; that's good enough -- ship it") 4. Maybe the terminals on your jump-starter are installed backwards? This can happen with cheap stuff from China etc. If you have a voltmeter, you can check the voltage of your battery, alternator, and jump-starter to figure out what's going on. Good luck! Lee Hart -- We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity. -- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes") -- Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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Re: Jump starting battery
Thank you! I¡¯ll check everything as you suggest.
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On 08/11/2021 1:07 PM sam letzring <sletz@...> wrote:
IHMO- as soon as the battery were installed backwards- most of the
electronics in the car would be fried ( electronics want to see a
negative ground!). So- I don't think therese's anything wrong with the
EV the problem is probably with the charger. If you have a multimeter-
you can check the polarity of the charger Black Negative- Red Positive.
I just looked up the charger and it looks like an all-right device- so
just measure everything.
sam
On 8/11/2021 3:50 PM, Paula Hyman wrote:
Thank you for your response. Would a battery installed in reverse operate perfectly fine for months and then not work? Would it be able to be jump started?
On 08/11/2021 12:22 PM Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
Paula Hyman wrote:
A few months ago I replaced the alternator and battery in my 2001 EVC.
Today I had to jump start my van. I used a TACKLIFE jump starter and
connected the jump starter black connector to the negative post and the
red connector to the positive post. I was immediately able to start the
van. However the jump starter indicated that I had reversed the clamps
(but I hadn¡¯t). I find this a little disconcerting. Any ideas why this
might have happened. Could it be that your battery is connected backwards?
It is possible (though definitely bad practice!) to connect a lead-acid
battery backwards. The alternator will charge it backwards, and actually
reverse its polarity! The plus terminal becomes minus, and the minus
becomes plus.
The battery still (barely) works, but has very low capacity and short life.
Lee Hart
--
We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for
the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity.
-- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes")
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
.
|
Re: Jump starting battery
IHMO- as soon as the battery were installed backwards- most of the electronics in the car would be fried ( electronics want to see a negative ground!). So- I don't think therese's anything wrong with the EV the problem is probably with the charger. If you have a multimeter- you can check the polarity of the charger Black Negative- Red Positive. I just looked up the charger and it looks like an all-right device- so just measure everything.
sam
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On 8/11/2021 3:50 PM, Paula Hyman wrote: Thank you for your response. Would a battery installed in reverse operate perfectly fine for months and then not work? Would it be able to be jump started?
On 08/11/2021 12:22 PM Lee Hart <leeahart@...> wrote:
Paula Hyman wrote:
A few months ago I replaced the alternator and battery in my 2001 EVC.
Today I had to jump start my van. I used a TACKLIFE jump starter and
connected the jump starter black connector to the negative post and the
red connector to the positive post. I was immediately able to start the
van. However the jump starter indicated that I had reversed the clamps
(but I hadn¡¯t). I find this a little disconcerting. Any ideas why this
might have happened. Could it be that your battery is connected backwards?
It is possible (though definitely bad practice!) to connect a lead-acid
battery backwards. The alternator will charge it backwards, and actually
reverse its polarity! The plus terminal becomes minus, and the minus
becomes plus.
The battery still (barely) works, but has very low capacity and short life.
Lee Hart
--
We aren't devoting nearly enough scientific research to find a cure for
the most recent pandemic; contagious stupidity.
-- paraphrased from Bill Watterson (creator of "Calvin and Hobbes")
--
Lee Hart, 814 8th Ave N, Sartell MN 56377, www.sunrise-ev.com
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
.
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Spencer Allen
Duane
Lee Hart