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Re: Noise from roof luggage rack

 

I had a similar problem and noticed some cracks appearing near the hold down? area.? That was several years ago and I solved it by drilling small holes at the end of the cracks to keep them from advancing and reinforcing the area under the hold downs with a rigid plastic type material (I used pieces of the old camper top, which I had replaced)? glued down with a Loctite product that I got by contacting Loctite.? It was a slow setting super glue material.? I have had no problems since and there is no continued cracking.

Jim Loomis
2002 EVC


Re: Noise from roof luggage rack

 


Take it off and inspect the mounting hardware. When I checked mine everything was rusted out. Gowesty has a great stainless steel retro kit.?

I also got some expanding foam from Home Depot and sprayed it under the front wedge, above that windshield, and it stopped the high speed, or really windy, flapping noise.

Good luck.
Darin
¡®95 EVC



On Fri, Jul 23, 2021 at 6:13 PM Paula Hyman <paula.hyman@...> wrote:

I¡¯m getting noise from my luggage rack which sounds like rocks hitting it. Usually on the highway. I think it began while driving through a windy area. I have tightened everything down but I still get this noise. I¡¯ve heard of some luggage carriers cracking or people losing them entirely. I don¡¯t want that to be me. Do any of you have any suggestions?

Paula
2001 EVC
Oakland, CA

--
~~~~~
Big Shots
3201 Corte Malpaso, Unit 302
Camarillo, CA 93012
805-484-9111


Noise from roof luggage rack

 

I¡¯m getting noise from my luggage rack which sounds like rocks hitting it. Usually on the highway. I think it began while driving through a windy area. I have tightened everything down but I still get this noise. I¡¯ve heard of some luggage carriers cracking or people losing them entirely. I don¡¯t want that to be me. Do any of you have any suggestions?

Paula
2001 EVC
Oakland, CA


Re: tires and liftkits (long)

 

OK
CaveMan, just didn't know who Cole was.
Thanks
Kent Kirkley
'97EVC



-----Original Message-----
From: Cole <colepford@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, Jul 23, 2021 12:35 pm
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] tires and liftkits (long)

What would you like to know?

We have been making lift spacers for the Eurovan for many years.?

Seems I can¡¯t post a link here as it gets stripped out. Our website is CaveVan ?just look for the lift spacers.?


Cole?

On Jul 23, 2021, at 11:33 AM, Kent Kirkley via <kgkirkley@...> wrote:

Coles?? More information please.

Kent Kirkley
97EVC




-----Original Message-----
From: David Springe <d.springe31@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, Jul 23, 2021 11:10 am
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] tires and liftkits (long)

I swung by Cole¡¯s a few years ago as i was passing through Colorado. He put a set of Bilsteins and a set of his spacers on my 2003 MV. Even adjusted my torsion bar. Made a huge difference in the ride.

His spacers are a good inexpensive option to gain a little extra room.

David Springe


, please excuse my typos.







Re: tires and liftkits (long)

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

What would you like to know?

We have been making lift spacers for the Eurovan for many years.?

Seems I can¡¯t post a link here as it gets stripped out. Our website is CaveVan ?just look for the lift spacers.?


Cole?

On Jul 23, 2021, at 11:33 AM, Kent Kirkley via <kgkirkley@...> wrote:

Coles?? More information please.

Kent Kirkley
97EVC



-----Original Message-----
From: David Springe <d.springe31@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, Jul 23, 2021 11:10 am
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] tires and liftkits (long)

I swung by Cole¡¯s a few years ago as i was passing through Colorado. He put a set of Bilsteins and a set of his spacers on my 2003 MV. Even adjusted my torsion bar. Made a huge difference in the ride.

His spacers are a good inexpensive option to gain a little extra room.

David Springe


, please excuse my typos.







Re: tires and liftkits (long)

 

Coles?? More information please.

Kent Kirkley
97EVC



-----Original Message-----
From: David Springe <d.springe31@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Fri, Jul 23, 2021 11:10 am
Subject: Re: [eurovanupdate] tires and liftkits (long)

I swung by Cole¡¯s a few years ago as i was passing through Colorado. He put a set of Bilsteins and a set of his spacers on my 2003 MV. Even adjusted my torsion bar. Made a huge difference in the ride.

His spacers are a good inexpensive option to gain a little extra room.

David Springe


, please excuse my typos.






Re: tires and liftkits (long)

 

I swung by Cole¡¯s a few years ago as i was passing through Colorado. He put a set of Bilsteins and a set of his spacers on my 2003 MV. Even adjusted my torsion bar. Made a huge difference in the ride.

His spacers are a good inexpensive option to gain a little extra room.

David Springe


Sent from my iPhone, please excuse my typos.


Re: Antenna

 

Thanks was your problem on passenger side or driver side ? And you changed the side with the problem or the slave side?

On Jul 23, 2021, at 9:27 AM, Brian Hirsch via groups.io <kd4fvn@...> wrote:

?Have you tried replacing the door lock actuator?
I had a similar problem with my drivers door. Turned out to be a passenger door actuator.

Brian





Re: Antenna

 

Have you tried replacing the door lock actuator?
I had a similar problem with my drivers door. Turned out to be a passenger door actuator.

Brian


Re: Help Solve the Mystery!

 

Rotate your wheels and see if the noise follows.? Swap the suspected one to the most opposite spot.


Objet : [eurovanupdate] Antenna

Yves Desilets
 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Once, I had that issue with my locking doors on my ¡®97EVC. As I remember, when I tried to lock them with my Wireless remote, the knobs began to go up and down and I wasn¡¯t able to do anything. But, before going at an electronic shop with the van, I found that a botton on the sliding door was pushed down by mistake. So I just had to raise it up and everything went normal after !!!

?

Yves

?

Provenance?: pour Windows 10

?

De?: Domokos Hadnagy
Envoy¨¦ le?:22 juillet 2021 15:21
??: [email protected]
Objet?:Re: [eurovanupdate] Antenna

?

Thanks for your input but this did not solve the problem.

I took everything apart today? and the issue seems to be the following.?

Once the car is locked by either the passenger?side or the driver side? the key on the driver side can not turn and unlock that door.?

. I have to go to the passenger?side and unlock the door on that side.?

But that is not all.

?The driver side now has the actuator going up and down.

?I have to now pull the knob on the driverside FORCEFULLY?up? then it stays up and I can now open the driver side door.

Any suggestions??????

?

?

?

On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 6:46 PM Vanny 2 <Peter.haug@...> wrote:

Hi Domokos, not sure if you resolved your door lock issue, but this is usually the spring inside the door latch mechanism. If the spring breaks, then the weight of the door lock knob is enough to push the knob down and then cause all the other locks to go down.

There is a video of how to make your own spring if you want to give it a try.?


?

--

Domokos Hadnagy

?


Re: Antenna

 

I experienced the same issue, so I disconnected the drivers side actuator power completely from my ¡®97 EVC. I actually prefer it that way. Very very difficult to get locked out :-)
Roger

On Thu, Jul 22, 2021 at 3:21 PM Domokos Hadnagy <domokos.hadnagy@...> wrote:
Thanks for your input but this did not solve the problem.
I took everything apart today? and the issue seems to be the following.?
Once the car is locked by either the passenger?side or the driver side? the key on the driver side can not turn and unlock that door.?
. I have to go to the passenger?side and unlock the door on that side.?
But that is not all.
?The driver side now has the actuator going up and down.
?I have to now pull the knob on the driverside FORCEFULLY?up? then it stays up and I can now open the driver side door.
Any suggestions??????



On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 6:46 PM Vanny 2 <Peter.haug@...> wrote:

Hi Domokos, not sure if you resolved your door lock issue, but this is usually the spring inside the door latch mechanism. If the spring breaks, then the weight of the door lock knob is enough to push the knob down and then cause all the other locks to go down.

There is a video of how to make your own spring if you want to give it a try.?



--
Domokos Hadnagy


Re: Antenna

 

Thanks for your input but this did not solve the problem.
I took everything apart today? and the issue seems to be the following.?
Once the car is locked by either the passenger?side or the driver side? the key on the driver side can not turn and unlock that door.?
. I have to go to the passenger?side and unlock the door on that side.?
But that is not all.
?The driver side now has the actuator going up and down.
?I have to now pull the knob on the driverside FORCEFULLY?up? then it stays up and I can now open the driver side door.
Any suggestions??????



On Sat, Jul 17, 2021 at 6:46 PM Vanny 2 <Peter.haug@...> wrote:

Hi Domokos, not sure if you resolved your door lock issue, but this is usually the spring inside the door latch mechanism. If the spring breaks, then the weight of the door lock knob is enough to push the knob down and then cause all the other locks to go down.

There is a video of how to make your own spring if you want to give it a try.?



--
Domokos Hadnagy


Re: Help Solve the Mystery!

 

I have the same issue very infrequently on my 95 EVC, added the lift kit and Bilstein's about 45 years ago, and new drive axels last fall, that's when I noticed the issue arising.


Re: Help Solve the Mystery!

 

See on you-tube how to test wheel bearing.? It probably the rear.


Re: Help Solve the Mystery!

 

Thanks for all the info and tips:

- nail or rocks in the tire? Unlikely, since the noise is very sensitive to throttle position (and goes away entirely if you are decelerating).
- which side is the noise on? W. Li points out that it may be hard to hear, and fixed the issue by changing out CV joints on both sides.
- Steve points out that having changed the right axle, might make sense to change the left one too so both are the same age.

Therefore, I'm leaning towards changing the left axle too. They are only $100 at Europarts-sd.com so not a large cost. I did the right side myself a few weeks ago and it was a 2-3 hour job (would have been easier with a helper, but with some big pry bars and a bottle jack, was doable solo).

Any thoughts about whether the left axle replacement is easier or harder than right?


Re: Help Solve the Mystery!

 

I might just replace the left axle to keep the whole repair maint thing balanced and then eliminate the CV joints once and for all as a possiblity.


Re: tires and liftkits (long)

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

We manufacture and sell a last of lift spacers for these for $90.?

There are no longer shocks available for the T4 Eurovan. So you only need to upgrade if you actually need shocks¡­.but not a bad time to do it.

Adjusted properly and you can fit a 225/70/16 which gives you about 45 properly rated tires instead of 5-6 choices.

Lots of wheels between 50-42 offset work great, et42 is the best.?

Cole
CaveVan.com




On Jul 22, 2021, at 10:06 AM, W. Li via groups.io <wli98122@...> wrote:

?We have had a lot of msg's re tire options and lift projects. No question the $2500 combination kit is very effective, looks swell and improves performance. However, there is a cheaper, simpler, and less sophisticated path that leaves the perfomance of this 6400lb beast unimproved (compared to the kit). My personal aim was just to gain an inch clearance to avoid scraping the propane tank. I did not need to improve handling with my "old geezer" driving habits. I do no off-road driving.

When my Michelin 205/65R15's wore out, I went and bought six Nokian WRC3 4-season 205/70R15 van tires load range 102-104 on the Web. So the only change was a higher aspect ratio. They shipped them out free but charged me 10% WA state sales tax. End result was I gained an inch in clearance. The larger diameter tire actually just fit in the OEM carrier frame in the back without any modification. These are studless snow tires that they claim can be run in the summer. I know the tire compound is softer than most, and do not expect to get more than 30K miles out of them, if that. However, where I live in the Northwest we get a lot of rain and slippery roads as well as occasional snow, and I am too lazy to switch to snow tires each winter given that it may not even snow. I figure a softer compound + the different tread pattern gives me a little more adhesion in the wet. Where we go in northern Canada on our road trips, I wanted to carry two full-sized spares. I made up a box that houses the second spare and chock blocks, and it sits behind the passenger seat and doubles as a drink table.

Over all, the speedometer reads 10% off, but the overall handling is unchanged, and the noise level about average.
I offer this option only as a suggestion for those of us that do not wish to go for the full lift kit.

There is no question that the design engineers at VW should have made all the T4's with 16 inch wheels from the very beginning.

W. Li
95 EVC?? 160K miles
Mercer Island, WA

PS:? I have three 15" used steel wheels for an EVC, free for anyone in this group who wants them.? (local pickup)


Re: tires and liftkits (long)

W. Li
 

We have had a lot of msg's re tire options and lift projects. No question the $2500 combination kit is very effective, looks swell and improves performance. However, there is a cheaper, simpler, and less sophisticated path that leaves the perfomance of this 6400lb beast unimproved (compared to the kit). My personal aim was just to gain an inch clearance to avoid scraping the propane tank. I did not need to improve handling with my "old geezer" driving habits. I do no off-road driving.

When my Michelin 205/65R15's wore out, I went and bought six Nokian WRC3 4-season 205/70R15 van tires load range 102-104 on the Web. So the only change was a higher aspect ratio. They shipped them out free but charged me 10% WA state sales tax. End result was I gained an inch in clearance. The larger diameter tire actually just fit in the OEM carrier frame in the back without any modification. These are studless snow tires that they claim can be run in the summer. I know the tire compound is softer than most, and do not expect to get more than 30K miles out of them, if that. However, where I live in the Northwest we get a lot of rain and slippery roads as well as occasional snow, and I am too lazy to switch to snow tires each winter given that it may not even snow. I figure a softer compound + the different tread pattern gives me a little more adhesion in the wet. Where we go in northern Canada on our road trips, I wanted to carry two full-sized spares. I made up a box that houses the second spare and chock blocks, and it sits behind the passenger seat and doubles as a drink table.

Over all, the speedometer reads 10% off, but the overall handling is unchanged, and the noise level about average.
I offer this option only as a suggestion for those of us that do not wish to go for the full lift kit.

There is no question that the design engineers at VW should have made all the T4's with 16 inch wheels from the very beginning.

W. Li
95 EVC?? 160K miles
Mercer Island, WA

PS:? I have three 15" used steel wheels for an EVC, free for anyone in this group who wants them.? (local pickup)


Re: Help Solve the Mystery!

W. Li
 

I had a similar problem, no easy to pin-point right from left sometimes... our ears can be fooled. In my EVC, I heard it from the "right side" ? (I thought). ? But in fact it was coming from BOTH CV joints.? Cured only by having them replace inner and outers on both sides....

W. Li
95 EVC?? 160K