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Hi try this, and let us know what you find. Feel free to write me directly
if you need more help.

I've just been diving into the fans on my '93.

First I kind wonder about one other comment I have seen about fans running
independently. On my EV there are 5 relays. Reviewing the copy of the wiring
diagram I have for mine and the actual connections I note that both fans are
activated at the same time and speed.

The first relay has two sets of contacts (one set for each fan) that when
activated (by either the AC or a temperature switch) supplies power through
the end tap of the resistors (interesting the maximum resistance in series
with the fans) providing the slow fan speed. This relay only has one coil
and input and seems to have only two states. On and off.

Medium speed is provided by a pair of relays that share the same input. When
these contacts close power is provided to the center tap of the resistors
inserting a minimum of resistance in series with the fans.

High speed is provide by a set of relays that also share a common input that
when activated provide battery power directly to each fan. Based on comments
from a tech at a local dealer a EV should almost never reach this state.
My Personnel experience with high speed is when the fans run at high speed
you know about it.

Also worthy of note is a set of 50 amp fuse mounted in the area near the
relays over the drivers side head light.

My current problem (I feel pretty good that I have the problem nailed down,
and am waiting for the parts to come in from Camelback) was a lack of
interior cooling when sitting still or moving slowly through a parking lot.

The under the hood look around led me to a cracked fuse I bought 4 replaced
2 and put the others in the glovebox. Things where better but not quite
right.

Monday night I dug into it again memorized the diagram and think the
following steps will work to troubleshoot this collection.

Get some 1-2 feet of 16 gage wire, electrical tape, two alligator clips a
fuse holder and a supply of 2-3 amp fuses to fit the holder. Put a alligator
clip on one wire of the fuse holder. Attach the other end of the fuse holder
to the 16 gage wire and attach the other alligator clip to the other end of
the 16 gage wire. This setup will be used to activate the relays for the
test. I suggest this type of test setup so as to protect you and your
vehicle from inadvertent connection of +12v directly to ground.

1. Do a visual on the fuses. Before disturbing a possibly bad fuse take a
moment to observe the condition if cracked in the middle be happy it's
probably just age and heat that has caused the fan to fail. If the fuse is
obvious melted get a little worried you may have something (the fan) drawing
to much power. Replace if required.
2. Provide +12v to point 3 on the relay with the 114 stamped on the top.
Verify operation of both fans at low speed.
3. Provide +12v to point 85 on either of the relays stamped 86 on the top.
Verify operation of booth fans at medium speed.
4.. Provide +12v to point 86 on either of the high speed relays marked with
111 on the top. Verify operation of both fans at high speed. Keep pets and
small children away from front of vehicle as the may be sucked up against
the grill. If one fan fails all tests you hopefully have a bad fuse. cause
I'll bet the fans are really expensive.

If a fan fails a low or medium speed test do a visual on the resistors. Swap
them around and see if the problem moves to the other fan. If so you have a
bad resistor, call Camelback and get the for $30 something instead of $50.

If after swapping the resistors around you still fail a low speed test on
the same fan you probably have a bad low speed relay. Because of the way
this is setup you can't do much more than replace the relay.

If after swapping the resistors around you still fail a medium speed test on
the same fan you probably have a bad medium speed relay. Verify that you
have the radio security code, disconnect the negative battery cable and swap
the medium speed relays(98 stamped on top). Reconnect the negative battery
terminal and test the medium speed fans. If the failing fan has moved you
have a bad relay. Buy a new one, disconnect the battery cable, flip a coin
and put the new in. Test. If both fans operate at medium speed have a cold
beverage of your choice.

If you fail a high speed fan test you can also exchange the relays marked
with 111 following the steps noted above.


Back to what I have found on my EV. After I replaced the cracked fuse. I
noted that the fans seemed to be short cycling. Often on for less than 10
seconds at a time and only one fan operating at the low speed. Both fans
operating at medium and high speeds. The one fan only at low speed turn out
to be a bad resistor. The "short cycling" at low speed turned out to be a
flaky set of contacts in the low speed relay.

Here's the kicker: the bad resistor was on the good set contacts in the low
speed relay. So when the low speed relay turned on the fans one did not run
due to a bad resistor, and the other would only run sometimes. I swapped the
resisters around and am reliably getting one fan at low speeds.

There is one more thing that my EV is doing that could be a useful flag to
help indicate problems with the setup.
The interior ventilation fans continues to run for about 5 seconds after I
turn the beast off. This could be caused by a combination of overpressure
switches etc. that are activated due to high temperature caused by a lack of
fans that is allowing the interior fans to continue to receive power after
the key is switched off.

This would be similar to the trick that older VW's would allow you to power
accessories without the key by turning on the headlights and pulling and
holding the dimmer switch.

I was alway taught that the way to inflate your tires is to (1) calculate the load on the tire (and usually front and back are different); (2) divide #1 by the maximum load allowed by the tire mfr; (3) calculate the proper inflation by multiplying this fraction times the maximum pressure allowed by the mfr.

Example: load on the front of a vehicle is 3000 pounds. Each tire is therefore loaded to 1500 pounds. Maximum allowed load on the tires is 1700 pounds. Maximum allowable tire pressure is 55 psi:
Calculation: (1500 / 1700) * 55 = 48.5 psi.

-- Chuck

At 07:25 PM 09/08/1999 -0700, you wrote:

I have an '97 EVC and just bought new tires, Michelin Agilis 51.
Tires size 205/65/R15C.
I kwew that the Eurovan door sticker say 51 psi front and 45 psi rear.
The Winnebago door sticker say 50 psi front and 50 psi rear.

<snip>

The same thing happened to me. Check the fuse. When you buy a new one,
make sure you get one with the correct Amps. My dealer had a little
Ziplock bag with 50 or so fuses. If I had not checked I would have
gotten the wrong one. They all look alike, so read what's printed on
it. I think they cost $1.50 each.
Good luck
Eckhard

There is a toll free number for VWoA customer service in Michigan that I have used to get information about the warranty service
history on VWs. You give them the VIN and they check the computer for repairs which were done under warranty. Tell them you want
to purchase the EV and they should give you the information. If the dealer got reimbursed by VWoA for any warranty work it should
show up in the computer. The phone number is 800-822-8987. Ask for customer service. Any dealer can also access these service
records directly. I would also find out what the lemon laws are in your state and check the VIN with the state to see if anything
comes up. There is one certainty in buying a car: Do not believe anything the salesman tells you.

Check the 50 amp fuses, in the black plastic fuse block next to the fan
relays, they are probably cracked.

My cooling fans have stopped working on my MV I had the relays,and
resistors replaced in April. any suggestions?

The EV6 engine has no timing belt, guys. It has a chain instead...whew, let
no more of this kind of gossip be promulgated on line, please.

Gary from Maine

I can safely say based on experience that no damage occurs to the 5
cylinder Eurovan when the timing belt breaks. The VR-6 is probably an
interference engine meaning the pistons would hit the valves if the
timing belt broke. I believe the replacement interval is 60k. It does
leave you stranded when it breaks. Has anyone done this job themselves?
I replaced the front brake pads on my 93 MV this past weekend. A one
hour job which turned into a 5 hour night mare due to a stuck caliper
sliding pin.

Harry Thompson
93 EV MV

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Eurobagans,

We did get 40000 miles from the standard Goodyears and they were run with
the Winnebago 50 lb pressure, but...the center began to wear too soon. That
means over-inflation. After seeing that I began to reduce said pressure but
lost a significant amount of mileage due to the worn center of the three
tires.

I think I'd agree that 50 is too much tire pressure. Some others have
suggest 45-48 with good wear on the Agilis tire. When mine get on (after
the body is fixed) they will start with 45 lbs. unless the list can suggest
a better pressure.

Any reports on the Backpacker trailer left to read?

Gary from Maine

We've never had such a problem so I can't tell you.

DL

Can't tell you the place we ordered it from now as it was about 6 years
ago. I found the address in an ad that was in a shortwave radio
magazine that I picked up at the newstand. That's about the only way I
know to buy one for a car. And now I can't remember the name of the
magazine but if you go to a good newstand you'll find one. We love the
radio as it makes it possible to travel without losing a signal,
especially at night and other times in the a.m. when BBC comes in
strong.

DL

In a message dated 09/06/1999 9:44:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
Sklashley@... writes:

It seems to me that the hoses only leak when the engine is cold. Is there
extra pressure in the hoses at that point? Something related to the cold
start valve?

I have a similar symptom with my lower radiator hose. It leaks when cold,
even when the engine has been off for several weeks, but it does not leak
when the engine is warm. My theory is that when the rubber is warm it is
pliable enough to conform to the shape of the radiator fitting, but when it
is cold it is stiff and allows a gap between mating surfaces.

Bill Armstrong, EVC Speculator
'71 Econoline (home brew camper)

I have heard conflicting information about the timing belt in the 5
cylinder eurovan engine. If this belt breaks does internal engine
damage happen?

I had a VW mechanic tell me there would be no damage.

--

Bill Salopek
ICQ: 20536257
No worries...
Business:
Home:

I cannot keep the sliders open on my MV when moving without getting an
annoying air noise that no one can take very long.

Hmmmm...good to know.

Thanks.
--

Bill Salopek
ICQ: 20536257
No worries...
Business:
Home:

Claude,

I have been running the pressures in my 95 EVC at 48 psig front and
rear. Reason is that at 50 psig tires showed some over inflation wear
(centre of tread wearing more than the rest of the tread), but at 48,
on all four tires, wear is quite even and tires are running cool -
this is after many long trips at the lower pressure. There are a lot
of variables so your experience could be different.

Dick
Vancouver Island

I have an '97 EVC and just bought new tires, Michelin Agilis 51.
Tires size 205/65/R15C.
I kwew that the Eurovan door sticker say 51 psi front and 45 psi rear.
The Winnebago door sticker say 50 psi front and 50 psi rear.
Now the tire dealer has a "1999 Tires Guide" that rate the
1999 Eurovan Camper at only 42 psi front and 36 psi rear.
The guide do not have as reference for 1997 model year.
I always put 50 PSI in my tires but also always found the ride a bit
hard.

I will like comments on tires pressure if anyone is driving on less
than
Winnebago door sticker.

Thank you

Claude
'97 EVC

In a message dated 9/8/99 3:35:41 PM, pjansen@... writes:

<<Even though everyone says NO, I can assure you it CAN cause damage. Such as
5 exhaust valves and one intake valve in my case. $2200, thank you very
much. Definitely worth replacing it at the specified interval, as I now
have learned.>>

What is the specified interval? There is no mention of it in the owner's
manual except to "check the condition of the belt" at something like 60,000
miles. I asked the FLVWD about replacing the timing belt at 70,000 miles and
they said to not worry about it. They said it will go for more than 100,000
miles, and if it does break, nothing will be damaged. I've had timing belts
in other VWs break and nothing happen, but they were not EVs which are a
different bird altogether. . .

Todd

Someone once told me that whether your timing belt breaking damages the
engine will depend on what the car is doing at the instant it breaks. So
it's certainly best to replace it before it breaks, of course.

Even though everyone says NO, I can assure you it CAN cause damage. Such as
5 exhaust valves and one intake valve in my case. $2200, thank you very
much. Definitely worth replacing it at the specified interval, as I now
have learned.