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Hi try this, and let us know what you find. Feel free to write me directly
if you need more help.

I've just been diving into the fans on my '93.

First I kind wonder about one other comment I have seen about fans running
independently. On my EV there are 5 relays. Reviewing the copy of the wiring
diagram I have for mine and the actual connections I note that both fans are
activated at the same time and speed.

The first relay has two sets of contacts (one set for each fan) that when
activated (by either the AC or a temperature switch) supplies power through
the end tap of the resistors (interesting the maximum resistance in series
with the fans) providing the slow fan speed. This relay only has one coil
and input and seems to have only two states. On and off.

Medium speed is provided by a pair of relays that share the same input. When
these contacts close power is provided to the center tap of the resistors
inserting a minimum of resistance in series with the fans.

High speed is provide by a set of relays that also share a common input that
when activated provide battery power directly to each fan. Based on comments
from a tech at a local dealer a EV should almost never reach this state.
My Personnel experience with high speed is when the fans run at high speed
you know about it.

Also worthy of note is a set of 50 amp fuse mounted in the area near the
relays over the drivers side head light.

My current problem (I feel pretty good that I have the problem nailed down,
and am waiting for the parts to come in from Camelback) was a lack of
interior cooling when sitting still or moving slowly through a parking lot.

The under the hood look around led me to a cracked fuse I bought 4 replaced
2 and put the others in the glovebox. Things where better but not quite
right.

Monday night I dug into it again memorized the diagram and think the
following steps will work to troubleshoot this collection.

Get some 1-2 feet of 16 gage wire, electrical tape, two alligator clips a
fuse holder and a supply of 2-3 amp fuses to fit the holder. Put a alligator
clip on one wire of the fuse holder. Attach the other end of the fuse holder
to the 16 gage wire and attach the other alligator clip to the other end of
the 16 gage wire. This setup will be used to activate the relays for the
test. I suggest this type of test setup so as to protect you and your
vehicle from inadvertent connection of +12v directly to ground.

1. Do a visual on the fuses. Before disturbing a possibly bad fuse take a
moment to observe the condition if cracked in the middle be happy it's
probably just age and heat that has caused the fan to fail. If the fuse is
obvious melted get a little worried you may have something (the fan) drawing
to much power. Replace if required.
2. Provide +12v to point 3 on the relay with the 114 stamped on the top.
Verify operation of both fans at low speed.
3. Provide +12v to point 85 on either of the relays stamped 86 on the top.
Verify operation of booth fans at medium speed.
4.. Provide +12v to point 86 on either of the high speed relays marked with
111 on the top. Verify operation of both fans at high speed. Keep pets and
small children away from front of vehicle as the may be sucked up against
the grill. If one fan fails all tests you hopefully have a bad fuse. cause
I'll bet the fans are really expensive.

If a fan fails a low or medium speed test do a visual on the resistors. Swap
them around and see if the problem moves to the other fan. If so you have a
bad resistor, call Camelback and get the for $30 something instead of $50.

If after swapping the resistors around you still fail a low speed test on
the same fan you probably have a bad low speed relay. Because of the way
this is setup you can't do much more than replace the relay.

If after swapping the resistors around you still fail a medium speed test on
the same fan you probably have a bad medium speed relay. Verify that you
have the radio security code, disconnect the negative battery cable and swap
the medium speed relays(98 stamped on top). Reconnect the negative battery
terminal and test the medium speed fans. If the failing fan has moved you
have a bad relay. Buy a new one, disconnect the battery cable, flip a coin
and put the new in. Test. If both fans operate at medium speed have a cold
beverage of your choice.

If you fail a high speed fan test you can also exchange the relays marked
with 111 following the steps noted above.


Back to what I have found on my EV. After I replaced the cracked fuse. I
noted that the fans seemed to be short cycling. Often on for less than 10
seconds at a time and only one fan operating at the low speed. Both fans
operating at medium and high speeds. The one fan only at low speed turn out
to be a bad resistor. The "short cycling" at low speed turned out to be a
flaky set of contacts in the low speed relay.

Here's the kicker: the bad resistor was on the good set contacts in the low
speed relay. So when the low speed relay turned on the fans one did not run
due to a bad resistor, and the other would only run sometimes. I swapped the
resisters around and am reliably getting one fan at low speeds.

There is one more thing that my EV is doing that could be a useful flag to
help indicate problems with the setup.
The interior ventilation fans continues to run for about 5 seconds after I
turn the beast off. This could be caused by a combination of overpressure
switches etc. that are activated due to high temperature caused by a lack of
fans that is allowing the interior fans to continue to receive power after
the key is switched off.

This would be similar to the trick that older VW's would allow you to power
accessories without the key by turning on the headlights and pulling and
holding the dimmer switch.