eurovanupdate@groups.io

Re: reset brake pad warning lamp?

You could have the sensor wire in the rear pads worn through or a faulty  
connection in the front pads.  Since the pads on all four wheels are  designed to 
wear at the same rate, I suspect it is the rear pads.
Are you sure that the sensor in the rear pads is OK?
 
As the late Gilda Radner wrote, "It's Always Something."
 
Bob W.

Show quoted text

In a message dated 6/23/2008 12:34:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
danielhpastor@... writes:

Just  replaced the front brake pads. warning lamp still on. Looks like
((0)). How  does one reset (turn off) the blasted lamp?
2003 Eurovan  GL
Thanks!

****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      ()

Re: What Ya Think on This Eurovan?

B Feddish

#104743

That's allot of money for a GLS, and with no sunroof at that. The price is
in line with dealer pricing though.  The PLUS side is it really does have
low mileage and since that's a VW dealer you'll get the 2 year warranty.  If
you are that worried about the tranny a 3rd party extended warranty would
probably be pretty cheap for vehicle with that low miles.

 

Thanks,
Bryan

 

  _____  

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of chipcook1975
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 2:46 PM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] What Ya Think on This Eurovan?

 

Looking for a EV, looking for low miles. Also scared of auto
transmissions breaking (I have only owned VW Manuals so far). 

I am in Greensboro, NC. I saw this in NJ:

<>
.com/preowned/dsp_viewcar.cfm?vin=WV2KB47023H000542

Re: EVC Luggage Carrier Mounts

jack_son_73

#104741

Casey -

I agree about the luggage bar & well on the cab. I
had my 2003 EVC cab cap off again the other day, to
replace some Ham Radio antenna cables I installed
under it. The first time I had it off, & saw that
single sheet-metal screw securing the entire center
area, & the half-riveted brackets under the luggage
rail, I wondered why they used 5/16" bolts. The non-
riveted side of my brackets had been "hot-glued"[?]
to the cab - and one was loose. I considered hot-
gluing it back, to a painted surface??

I installed a 1/4-20 Nut-Sert, or Riv-Nut, where
the sheet-metal screw hole was, & a 2nd one about a
foot behind it, using fender washers & rubber discs
inside the ABS well. I replaced the original 5/16
hdwe. with stainless steel. I wondered what would
happen if the sheet-metal screw had come loose, &
100 MPH wind scooped under the ABS cap. I started
to drill out the rivets, and install 1/4-20 Nut-
Serts under BOTH sides of the brackets. I now plan
to leave the rivets, & drill oversize holes on the
glued sides, & install Nut-Serts under them, with
washers above.

I built up the area inside the ABS luggage well
with 5 parallel Kindorf 2" channels about a foot
long; two under each luggage rail end bracket, &
one slightly longer in the center, with rubber
strips under each.

I covered the channels with a sheet of 1/8"aluminum
with split foam pipe insulation sandwiched between.
Rubber shims raise the aluminum panel to ~1/8"
below rim of the well. U-shaped weather-stripping
was glued around the aluminum plate.

The aluminum plate was added for a ground plane
under my Ham Radio antenna, but also serves to
keep some leaves, snow & water out of the well. For
me, the luggage well was useless. I never did find
a cargo box to fit, & the thought of a duffel-bag
sitting in a pool of water, snow... If I put a bag
up there now, at least it will be higher & drier.

Regards,


Jack_son
===============
--In ev_update@..., "jcaseymoore" <cmoore@..> wrote:

Show quoted text

I removed my front Luggage Carrier on a 2000 EVc to
mount some hold-downs on it. To my surprise the
underlying attachment hardware was badly rusted and
consisted of thin steel brackets each only riveted
on only one side to the EVC roof.  I cleaned up the
rust, coated the brackets with rust stopping solution
and repainted them.

But I wouldn't trust the rack with anything very heavy
or valuable.  This seems to be the rule on my van.
The Winnebago parts are not corrosion resistant, and
in some cases flimsy and not well made.  So see what
I mean go to the Photo  Section under Luggage Carrier
Front EVC

1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L

Joe R

#104740

"I can't find the OBD connector, period."

You have what is called a "2+2" arrangment.
Here's what your looking for on pre 96 VW's that have diagnostics. Including EV's.

Joe R

Re: What Ya Think on This Eurovan?

#104742

The GLS might be nice.  However, if you are concerned about automatic  
transmissions failing, perhaps an EV is not for you.
 
If it were me, I would be looking nearby for a used EV, preferably  something 
that has avoided salted roads. There is a Weekender available in  Charlotte. 
Check message #105180 that reads:
QUOTE
Hi, I'm selling my 2001 EV MV Weekender. I'm in Charlotte NC. Give
me a  call or email me if you would like some info on  it.
Thanks,
Mike
704-575-9875
UNQUOTE
 
Bob W.

Show quoted text

In a message dated 6/22/2008 11:10:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
chipcook@... writes:

Looking for a EV, looking for low miles. Also scared of  auto
transmissions breaking (I have only owned VW Manuals so far).  

I am in Greensboro, NC. I saw this in NJ:
_ 
() 




****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      ()

reset brake pad warning lamp?

Dan Pastor

#104750

Just replaced the front brake pads.  warning lamp still on.  Looks like
((0)).  How does one reset (turn off) the blasted lamp?
2003 Eurovan GL
Thanks!

Re: 1996 Eurovan Rialto 5 cylinder 2.5 L - will fire but not run

dave_king_ev

#104739

Wiggle the key in the switch, or push and hold, or buy a new one ($10
-- you can get a new one in two days from europarts or your dealer
probably has them in stock).

A vacuum leak is not going to cause a no run condition.  Your engine
runs when you crank it, and vacuum is leaking then, too, and yet it
runs.  The ECM doesn't turn off the ignition or fuel when there's a
vacuum leak.

Show quoted text

--- In ev_update@..., "John Johnson" <johnnie5@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., "dave_king_ev" <dave_king_ev@> wrote:
So if I was going to hot wire the switch I would run 12 volts from the
battery to where, as a test to bypass the switch run position?

I can't find the OBD connector, period.

I agree on the pump/regulator - it fires up smoothly then dies.

The vacuum hoses disconnected bother me, would the ECU turn off with a
vacuum leak?

Has anyone checked the ignition switch (behind the key).  Those have
been a weak link on VWs since the Third Reich.

Don't expect OBDI to tell you what's wrong with the ignition....it
can't detect that level of detail usually.

After replacing two fuel pumps that should tell two things:  there was
nothing wrong with the original pump, and there was nothing wrong with
the first replacement pump.  Leave the second replacement alone.

There is a fuel pressure regulator on the injector rail, I think (at
least that's what you'd expect), but I bet your problem isn't fuel.

Best way to get a manual right away is to buy one from Bentley direct.
 You can always find them on ebay, too, for a lot less.

EVC Luggage Carrier Mounts

#104738

I removed my front Luggage Carrier on a 2000 EVc to mount some hold-downs on it.
To my surprise the underlying attachment hardware was badly rusted and consisted of thin
steel brackets each only riveted on only one side to the EVC roof.  I cleaned up the rust,
coated the brackets with rust stopping solution and repainted them.

But I wouldn't trust the rack with anything very heavy or valuable.  This seems to be the rule
on my van.  The Winnebago parts are not corrosion resistant, and in some cases flimsy and
not well made.

So see what I mean go to the Photo  Section under Luggage Carrier Front EVC

Re: EVC Electrical Problem

jack_son_73

#104733

John -

Yes, my original Converter was a Magnetek 30A unit,
& it had an internal breaker, with excess voltage
drop through it. Since only 6A of the 30 was used
for charging, I never got much of a charge. It is
about a $10-15 item, & would only take 1 minute to
replace, once you have the Magnetek out, & open.

I wanted higher DC output, so found the 45A model
on EBay - NIB. They were taken over by Parallax,
who has similar units with their name on them.

If your problem is that internal breaker, get one
like the front breaker on firewall left of battery.

While tracing your problem, don't overlook ALL wires
& crimped lugs done by Winnebago. They did poor work,
& perhaps the same guy was "Quality" inspector.

I kept my original Magnetek in case I had a problem
with the replacement one, but it's never malfunctioned.

I should have looked harder for a better replacement
for my Magnetek. I understand someone makes a
Converter-Charger-Inverter [sine wave]. It would be
great to have a 3-in-one, even with limited Inverter power.

Let us know what you find.

Regards,

Jack_son

===============
--In ev_update@..., "John Stamford" <johnstamford@...>
wrote:

Jack-son,

Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear!  Was your originalconverter a Magtech or something else?  You say it has an internal
breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach
battery box.  I opened the access door to the converter which is
accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring
connections which I redid.

Regards, John
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...>
  To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...>
  Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM
  Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem

  Jas -

  I was trying to keep you from having to access the
  Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the
  rear power panel, & access requires removing the
  large plastic panel below the closet. The converter
  has an internal breaker similar/identical to the
  ones near the batteries.

  I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced
  mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output
  into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC
  'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had
  6A for charging house bat.]

  If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all
  seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic
  cover to the left of luggage area, below closet.

  Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach
  the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't
  have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial]
  access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I
  will do the same.

  The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches
  forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via
  converter], & front relay connect.

  Regards,

  Jack-son
  ========================
  ---In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote:
  >
  > Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal
  > diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and
  > another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication ofa
  > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer...
  through
  > the air vents for the heater?
  >
  > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:
  > >
  > > The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
  > > goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
  > > forward of the Converter. The converter is
  > > connected to that tie point, & to
  > > rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
  > > There is another circuit breaker near the rear
  > > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to
  > > shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
  > > 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
  > > firewall relay.
  > >
  > > BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
  > > one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
  > > a defective identical 30A breaker inside the
  > > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so
  > > my rear bat never got a full charge, from
  > > alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
  > > selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
  > > they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
  > > Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
  > > welcomed back 'home'.
  > >
  > > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to
  > > chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
  > > wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
  > > would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
  > > ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
  > > as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
  > > while working on my van.
  > >
  > > Jack_son
  > > '03 EVC '01 Passat
  > > ===============
  > > --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@>
  wrote:
  > > >
  > > > Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall justabove
  the
  > > > battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 ampcircut-
  > > breaker
  > > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and
  fuse
  > > > checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's nextconnection
  for
  > > > distribution?
  > > >
  > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:
  > > > >
  > > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the
  engine
  > is
  > > > > running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge therear
  > > > battery.
  > > > > A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them.
  Usually
  > > about
  > > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There
  > should
  > > > be 3
  > > > > wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or
  nuts
  > > > > holding it to the wall.
  > > > >
  > > > > Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close
  > to
  > > the
  > > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping onit
  > with
  > > a
  > > > > non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.
  > > > >
  > > > > Duane
  > > > > 05HD Rialta
  > > > >
  > > > >
  > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford"
  <johnstamford@>
  > > > wrote:
  > > > > >
  > > > > > My 95 was working fine with the coach battery beingcharged
  > by
  > > > the
  > > > > > altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked...an
  > THEN!
  > > I
  > > > go on
  > > > > > a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping therefridge
  > cold
  > > > while
  > > > > > driving. A volt meter told me that I was not gettingany
  > juice
  > > at
  > > > the
  > > > > > battery with the engine running and the alternatorshowed
  > 14.5
  > > > VDC
  > > > > > output at the battery under the hood. Shorelinerecharged
  the
  > > > coach
  > > > > > battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, Ihave
  come
  > > to
  > > > the
  > > > > > conclusion that there is a relay the switches betweenthe
  > > > shoreline and
  > > > > > the alternator to charge the coach battery... questionis;
  1)
  > > am
  > > > I
  > > > > > correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3)how do
  I
  > > > change
  > > > > > it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That foranyone's
  help.
  > > > > >
  > > > >
  > > >
  > >
  >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Re: EVC Electrical Problem

John Stamford

#104732

Forest, thanks for the suggestion.  I had thought about it, but my wife is a little safety crazy.  On second thought, I will do that until I pin point the 12 volt problem. Regards, John

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: forest flanigan<mailto:creoflan@...> 
  To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> 
  Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:06 AM
  Subject: Re: [ev_update] EVC Electrical Problem

  If you have a hard time finding a replacement solenoid or can't trace the
  problem you can always drive with the fridge on propane . Some folks
  recommend turning the propane off during fueling but I find no problem with
  leaving the fridge lit while refueling. If you do turn off the fridge while
  putting gas in you need a well charged rear battery to get it re lit.
  Good luck
  Forest

Re: EVC Electrical Problem

John Stamford

#104731

Jack-son,

Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear!  Was your original converter a Magtech or something else?  You say it has an internal breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the coach battery box.  I opened the access door to the converter which is accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring connections which I redid.

Regards, John

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: jack_son_73<mailto:jackr1@...> 
  To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> 
  Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM
  Subject: [ev_update] Re: EVC Electrical Problem


  Jas - 

  I was trying to keep you from having to access the 
  Converter-Charger. It is about 12" forward of the 
  rear power panel, & access requires removing the 
  large plastic panel below the closet. The converter 
  has an internal breaker similar/identical to the 
  ones near the batteries.

  I needed a larger converter-charger, so I replaced 
  mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output 
  into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC 
  'house' loads are connected. [Stock unit only had 
  6A for charging house bat.]

  If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all 
  seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic 
  cover to the left of luggage area, below closet.

  Someone on this list mentioned using Velcro to attach 
  the grill adjacent to the Converter, so he didn't 
  have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial] 
  access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I 
  will do the same.

  The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches 
  forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via 
  converter], & front relay connect.

  Regards,

  Jack-son 
  ========================
  ---In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@..> wrote:
  >
  > Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal 
  > diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and 
  > another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a 
  > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... 
  through 
  > the air vents for the heater?
  > 
  > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:
  > >
  > > The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay 
  > > goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just 
  > > forward of the Converter. The converter is 
  > > connected to that tie point, & to 
  > > rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire. 
  > > There is another circuit breaker near the rear 
  > > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to 
  > > shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the 
  > > 3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front 
  > > firewall relay.
  > > 
  > > BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on 
  > > one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also 
  > > a defective identical 30A breaker inside the 
  > > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so 
  > > my rear bat never got a full charge, from 
  > > alternator or on shore power. I drove back to 
  > > selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but 
  > > they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems]. 
  > > Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they 
  > > welcomed back 'home'.
  > > 
  > > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to 
  > > chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house 
  > > wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc. 
  > > would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle 
  > > ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors 
  > > as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed 
  > > while working on my van.
  > > 
  > > Jack_son
  > > '03 EVC '01 Passat
  > > ===============
  > > --In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" <johnstamford@> 
  wrote:
  > > >
  > > > Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above 
  the 
  > > > battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-
  > > breaker 
  > > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and 
  fuse 
  > > > checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection 
  for 
  > > > distribution?
  > > > 
  > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:
  > > > >
  > > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the 
  engine 
  > is
  > > > > running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear 
  > > > battery. 
  > > > > A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. 
  Usually 
  > > about
  > > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There 
  > should 
  > > > be 3
  > > > > wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or 
  nuts
  > > > > holding it to the wall.
  > > > > 
  > > > > Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close 
  > to 
  > > the
  > > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it 
  > with 
  > > a
  > > > > non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.
  > > > > 
  > > > > Duane
  > > > > 05HD Rialta
  > > > > 
  > > > > 
  > > > > --- In ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update%40yahoogroups.com>, "jastamford" 
  <johnstamford@> 
  > > > wrote:
  > > > > >
  > > > > > My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged 
  > by 
  > > > the 
  > > > > > altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an 
  > THEN! 
  > > I 
  > > > go on 
  > > > > > a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge 
  > cold 
  > > > while 
  > > > > > driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any 
  > juice 
  > > at 
  > > > the 
  > > > > > battery with the engine running and the alternator showed 
  > 14.5 
  > > > VDC 
  > > > > > output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged 
  the 
  > > > coach 
  > > > > > battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have 
  come 
  > > to 
  > > > the 
  > > > > > conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the 
  > > > shoreline and 
  > > > > > the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 
  1) 
  > > am 
  > > > I 
  > > > > > correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do 
  I 
  > > > change 
  > > > > > it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's 
  help.
  > > > > >
  > > > >
  > > >
  > >
  >

Re: 3-way fridge

John Stamford

#104730

First, check and make sure that the single push/pull 15 amp breaker in your rear panel is PUSHED IN.  Second, make sure all the ones on the left are pushed in as well.  You might want to take the double vent cover for the heater in the back off and open the access door to the converter and make sure that all of the wiring has solid connections.  Take the wire nuts off and double check the wire stripping... Winnebago has a lot to learn about good wiring!  Regards, John

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: sparksgal2003<mailto:63342@...> 
  To: ev_update@...<mailto:ev_update@...> 
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 6:38 AM
  Subject: [ev_update] 3-way fridge

  hi group, 
  noticed a recent thread on the norcold fridge. my fridge in my 1997 evc 
  does not work on "110volt" shore power mode. does anyone have 
  suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem. it works just fine on 
  12v and propane modes.
  thanks...

Tranny Fluid, how much?

David E. Fahnestock

#104729

I ordered four Quarts of the cheaper fluid from Euro Parts. Wasn't enough to come out the
over flow when engine and tranny up to temp. Looks like four quarts would be about a pint
less than four liters. Don't know the exact capacity of tranny. Maybe I'm OK.

On a side note, I could not replace the rear rotors. Could not get the bolts loose, even with a
two foot extension on the socket wrench. Had no trouble replacing the front rotors.

At 227,804 miles (Highway miles), still going strong. Change oil every 5000 miles. Uses no
oil between changes.
AC & Cruise perfect. Fridge perfect. Nothing wrong. Pretty good for a 2002 EVC.

Re: '02 EVC with very recently rebult tranny- linkage won't go into R or P!

Downtown Computers

#104728

Well Rob
Someone did not see or repair your shift linkage problem when your tranny was out...you might want look for some evidence of missing or loose fastening bolt or hardware that controls or retains your shift linkage. Wish I could be more precise, that wont happen. But if it were me I would be crawling under and around that truck before I took off..might find something very obvious and atleast do-able until the correct repair can be determined.
My '93 ev was given to me because of numerous issues including the tranny. I did every repair myself, and im a computer tech, so it cant be too awful hard to do a bit of looking into the linkage and maybe get lucky.

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Rob Robinson 
  To: ev_update@... 
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 5:15 PM
  Subject: [ev_update] '02 EVC with very recently rebult tranny- linkage won't go into R or P!

  With slightly over 1000 miles on my rebuilt 5200+ tranny, I had an 
  unusual situation happen today.

  I was in a congested intersection in the Poconos PA area and when I 
  went to go into reverse to clear the intersection, the shifter jut 
  sailed forward and I was still in a drive gear.

  It seems that everything shifted down, so that now- as far up as I 
  move the shift lever, it sometimes will (thankfully) make it into 
  Neutral. 1st gear is literally where D would be.

  So, I am now up in the mountains, ready to ride back to the NYC area 
  hoping that I can stay in Drive and can get it back into Neutral if 
  and when I need to stop. In D, there is no detent on the shifter 
  since it is somewhere between the actual detents,so I guess that it 
  can possibly get banged or slide into a lower gear.

  Obviously, I will have to get the EVC back to VW, but that in itself 
  is a horror of scheduling.

  Don't know that I am asking for advice or just venting. I have a 
  busy trip ahead of me. Hopefully, if I stop to gas up, I can get 
  the EVC back into neutral to turn off the engine and then back into 
  gear. I will have to rely on the parking brake alone and Neutral if 
  I can still slam and coax it to go above D.

  Argh,
  Rob - Long Beach, NY

Re: '02 EVC with very recently rebult tranny- linkage won't go into R or P!

airic

#104727

sounds like your cable broke, or came off the linkage on the trans, or
shifter  Hope the clip is still there if it came off the trans

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
  From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...]On
Behalf Of Rob Robinson
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 5:16 PM
  To: ev_update@...
  Subject: [ev_update] '02 EVC with very recently rebult tranny- linkage
won't go into R or P!

  With slightly over 1000 miles on my rebuilt 5200+ tranny, I had an
  unusual situation happen today.

  I was in a congested intersection in the Poconos PA area and when I
  went to go into reverse to clear the intersection, the shifter jut
  sailed forward and I was still in a drive gear.

  It seems that everything shifted down, so that now- as far up as I
  move the shift lever, it sometimes will (thankfully) make it into
  Neutral. 1st gear is literally where D would be.

  So, I am now up in the mountains, ready to ride back to the NYC area
  hoping that I can stay in Drive and can get it back into Neutral if
  and when I need to stop. In D, there is no detent on the shifter
  since it is somewhere between the actual detents,so I guess that it
  can possibly get banged or slide into a lower gear.

  Obviously, I will have to get the EVC back to VW, but that in itself
  is a horror of scheduling.

  Don't know that I am asking for advice or just venting. I have a
  busy trip ahead of me. Hopefully, if I stop to gas up, I can get
  the EVC back into neutral to turn off the engine and then back into
  gear. I will have to rely on the parking brake alone and Neutral if
  I can still slam and coax it to go above D.

  Argh,
  Rob - Long Beach, NY

'02 EVC with very recently rebult tranny- linkage won't go into R or P!

Rob Robinson

#104726

With slightly over 1000 miles on my rebuilt 5200+ tranny, I had an
unusual situation happen today.

I was in a congested intersection in the Poconos PA area and when I
went to go into reverse to clear the intersection, the shifter jut
sailed forward and I was still in a drive gear.

It seems that everything shifted down, so that now- as far up as I
move the shift lever, it sometimes will (thankfully) make it into
Neutral.  1st gear is literally where D would be.

So, I am now up in the mountains, ready to ride back to the NYC area
hoping that I can stay in Drive and can get it back into Neutral if
and when I need to stop.  In D, there is no detent on the shifter
since it is somewhere between the actual detents,so I guess that it
can possibly get banged or slide into a lower gear.

Obviously, I will have to get the EVC back to VW, but that in itself
is a horror of scheduling.

Don't know that I am asking for advice or just venting.  I have a
busy trip ahead of me.  Hopefully, if I stop to gas up, I can get
the EVC back into neutral to turn off the engine and then back into
gear.  I will have to rely on the parking brake alone and Neutral if
I can still slam and coax it to go above D.

Argh,
Rob - Long Beach, NY

VW SITE

[email protected]

#104734

CHECK IT  OUT            _www.bigbubbasautoparts.com_ 
()

Show quoted text

In a message dated 6/22/2008 9:39:57 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jackr1@... writes:

John -

Yes, my original Converter was a Magnetek 30A unit, 
&  it had an internal breaker, with excess voltage 
drop through it. Since  only 6A of the 30 was used 
for charging, I never got much of a charge. It  is 
about a $10-15 item, & would only take 1 minute to 
replace,  once you have the Magnetek out, & open. 

I wanted higher DC output,  so found the 45A model 
on EBay - NIB. They were taken over by Parallax,  
who has similar units with their name on them.

If your problem is  that internal breaker, get one 
like the front breaker on firewall left of  battery. 

While tracing your problem, don't overlook ALL wires  
& crimped lugs done by Winnebago. They did poor work, 
&  perhaps the same guy was "Quality" inspector.

I kept my original  Magnetek in case I had a problem 
with the replacement one, but it's never  malfunctioned.

I should have looked harder for a better replacement  
for my Magnetek. I understand someone makes a  
Converter-Charger-Converter-Charger-<WBR>Inverter [s
great to have  a 3-in-one, even with limited Inverter power.

Let us know what you  find.

Regards,

Jack_son

===============
--In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) ,  "John 
Stamford" <johnstamford@joh> 
wrote:

 Jack-son,

Thanks, exactly what I didn't want to hear! Was  your original converter a Magtech or something else? You say it has an  internal 
breaker... in the converter or an add-on like the one in the  coach 
battery box. I opened the access door to the converter which is  
accessable through the double grill and found some piss poor wiring  
connections which I redid.

Regards, John
-----  Original Message ----- 
From:  jack_son_73<<WBR>mailto:ja<WB> 
To: _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) <mailto:_ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) >  
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:23 AM
Subject: [ev_update]  Re: EVC Electrical Problem

Jas - 

I  was trying to keep you from having to access the 
Converter-Charger.  It is about 12" forward of the 
rear power panel, & access  requires removing the 
large plastic panel below the closet. The  converter 
has an internal breaker similar/identical to the 
 ones near the batteries.

I needed a larger converter-charger,  so I replaced 
mine with a 45A unit, which puts the full output  
into my 2 rear bats, in parallel with whatever DC 
'house'  loads are connected. [Stock unit only had 
6A for charging house  bat.]

If you checked the easier two battery areas, & all  
seems OK, then you need to remove that long plastic 
cover to  the left of luggage area, below closet.

Someone on this list  mentioned using Velcro to attach 
the grill adjacent to the Converter,  so he didn't 
have to remove the whole panel just to get [partial]  
access to converter. When I put my panel back on, I 
will do  the same.

The isolated/insulated tie point is a few inches  
forward of the converter, where the rear bat, [via 
 converter], & front relay connect.

Regards,

Jack-son 
============ ======== ==
---In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) <mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>,  "jastamford" <johnstamford@> wrote:

 Thanks for your input! I have a pdf of the coach wiring instal 
 diagram and have located a 30 amp breaker by the fuse panel and 
 another by the coach batter, however, there is no indication of a 
 > breaker at the converter. How did you access the converer... 
 through 
the air vents for the heater?

 --- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) <mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>,  "jack_son_73" <jackr1@> wrote:

The  Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay 
goes to an  insulated tie point terminal, just 
forward of the  Converter. The converter is 
connected to that tie point,  & to 
rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.  
There is another circuit breaker near the rear  > > bat. When the converter is NOT connected to 
shore  power, the rear bat is conectred to the 
3 DC rear outlets,  & appliances, & to the front 
firewall  relay.

BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very  poor crimp on 
one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was  also 
a defective identical 30A breaker inside the  > > Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so 
 my rear bat never got a full charge, from 
alternator or on  shore power. I drove back to 
selling dealer a few weeks  after purchase, but 
they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH  problems]. 
Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC  they 
welcomed back 'home'.
 > BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to 
chamge  color code of ALL of Winebago's "house 
wiring code", so  anyone testing, jumping, etc. 
would not be confused. No one  working on a vehicle 
ever considers BLACK = Positive. I  changed colors 
as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were  exposed 
while working on my van.
 > > Jack_son
'03 EVC '01 Passat
 ============<WB
--In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) <mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>,  "jastamford" <johnstamford@> 
wrote:
 >
Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall  just above 
the 
battery and checks out!  From there, there is a 30 amp circut-
breaker  > > > inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and  
fuse 
checks out. Questions is, where is the  wire's next connection 
for 
 distribution?

--- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) <mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>,  "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:
 > > > There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the  engine 
is
running  (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear 
 > battery. 
A lot of auto parts places have  them or can get them. Usually 
about > > > $20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There  
should 
be 3
 wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or  nuts
holding it to the wall. > > 
Can't help with the location, but I'd  guess it's pretty close 
to 
the > > > > rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on  it 
with 
a
 non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one. > 
Duane
05HD  Rialta

 > > > --- In _ev_update@yahoogrouev_upd_ (mailto:ev_update@...) <mailto:ev_update%
40yahoogroups.40y>,  "jastamford" 
<johnstamford@> 
 wrote:

My 95  was working fine with the coach battery being charged 
by  
the 
altnator while  driving or by shoreline when parked... an 
THEN!  > > I 
go on 
a  trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge 
 cold 
while 
driving.  A volt meter told me that I was not getting any 
juice  
at 
the 
 > battery with the engine running and the alternator showed 
 > 14.5 
VDC 
output  at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged 
the 
 > > > coach 
battery no problem. In  trying to fix the problem, I have 
come 
to  
the 
conclusion that  there is a relay the switches between the 
 shoreline and 
the alternator to charge the  coach battery... question is; 
1) 
am  > > > I 
correct? 2) where the hell  did wennibago hide it? 3) how do 
I 
change  
it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That  for anyone's 
help.
 > > >

[Non-text portions of this  message have been removed]

****Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      ()

Re: 3-way fridge

#104725

If you're sure that there's 110 getting to the fridge, there's not
much left.  There should be a fuse, the mode switch, thermostat,
thermocouple, and the heating element.  You may be able to find the
manual with wiring info here:
<>

Duane

Show quoted text

--- In ev_update@..., "sparksgal2003" <63342@...> wrote:

hi group,
noticed a recent thread on the norcold fridge. my fridge in my 1997 evc
does not work on "110volt" shore power mode. does anyone have
suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem. it works just fine on
12v and propane modes.
thanks...

Re: 3-way fridge

Larry Schellhase

#104724

I would start with the electrical panel in back of the van. Check to see that all of the circuit switches are pushed in.

Show quoted text

--- On Sun, 6/22/08, sparksgal2003 <63342@...> wrote:

            hi group, 

noticed a recent thread on the norcold fridge. my fridge in my 1997 evc 

does not work on "110volt" shore power mode. does anyone have 

suggestions on how to troubleshoot this problem. it works just fine on 

12v and propane modes.

thanks...

    _____

Re: OBD II/ VAG COM

Joe R

#104722

Check for 12 volts and ground on the obi connector. They are shown on the link I gave. Also look for pins pushed out of the connector.

Joe

Show quoted text

----- Original Message ----- 
  From: mike shea 
  To: ev_update@... 
  Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 10:15 AM
  Subject: Re: [ev_update] OBD II/ VAG COM

  hi all
  thanks for the replies. i do have an aftermarket blaupunkt radio in my car. 
  i've had it for a long time though so i was skeptical that this was where 
  the problem lied. at any rate, i cut the wire as suggested on the ross-tech 
  page. still no difference. no reading at all at the obd II connector.
  any other suggestions?
  peace
  mike

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