开云体育

The pressure screw is in the manifold which is inside the pan, which

makes incremental tweaks a PITA.

That is true...if you want to make incremental tweaks you have to drop the pan again.

It has a ratchet feature to it that only allows you to turn it in, raising pressure.

Correct.

Personally I wouldn't touch it without first getting a pressure test. You may cause more harm than good and there is no going back, at least not without considerable expense.

For another point of view, I have yet to see any thread on this subject where someone did this and regretted it. Every post with feedback I've seen seems to have nothing but good things to say.

Here are pics and instructions. This is for a Mk4 Golf/Jetta 01M trans but the Eurovan's 01P is similar.

I have searched and searched. Is there ANYWHERE I can get some curtains for my '99 Eurovan MV? help!!

FWIW, I found mine on Ebay. They show up from time to time. My van was a '00 and the ones I got were from a '93 and they fit just fine...same snap locations. Just keep checking ebay.

I did a head job on a Honda Accord that suffered from a broken timing
belt. It ran fine for years after. As long as the valves/pistons only
bent or have dings it should be fine to rebuild. If little bits of
valves were floating around in the cylinders you would have scoring on
the cylinder walls and the engine is probably junk, unless you go
through an entire rebuild with boring out cylinders and oversize
pistons (not sure if that is an option for that engine). Getting a
used engine is not a bad idea if you can get one for a similar price.

--
Sent from Gmail for mobile | mobile.google.com

If you have a hard time finding a replacement solenoid or can't trace the
problem you can always drive with the fridge on propane . Some folks
recommend turning the propane off during fueling but I find no problem with
leaving the fridge lit while refueling. If you do turn off the fridge while
putting gas in you need a well charged rear battery to get it re lit.
Good luck
Forest

The pressure screw is in the manifold which is inside the pan, which
makes incremental tweaks a PITA. It has a ratchet feature to it that
only allows you to turn it in, raising pressure. Personally I wouldn't
touch it without first getting a pressure test. You may cause more
harm than good and there is no going back, at least not without
considerable expense. Improper fluid levels can mimic some of your
symptoms so I wouldn't go messing with settings without first taking
care of the standard stuff first. A pressure test is pretty straight
forward. I wouldn't expect to pay more than about $100 for one.
IVAN
Therefore:
I am,
Dan

Having just spent close to $3,500 replacing my roof, I would be very, very careful about doing anything that would tortionally stress the roof.

--Michael Wise
'99 EVC, '08 R32
Ketchum, Idaho


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

Sounds like slipping then. Doing the reset won't hurt but slipping

would to me be consistent with your notation of it being slower when
cold (more slipping, clutches not coming together quickly enough,
etc.). In that case I'd change the fluid and filter and also adjust
the pressure screw and see what happens from there.


I know this will be a stupid question. Should the pressure be adjusted
upwards or downwards? By how much -- quarter-turn, half-turn, or
other. Obviously, I won't do this work -- but I need to be able to
instruct someone on what to do. Where is the pressure screw?

-Erich

Kent,
Nice looking install on the A/C. I'm working on getting mine set up
the same way. BTW, I like your scope setup as well. I belong to the
San Diego club and I also have AP equipment.
I'm on my way to the Grand Canyon Star Party this next week and sure
wish I had my window A/C ready. I installed a MaxxFan recently and
hopefully that will do for now.
Clear Skies,
Jose

I use the A/C only during the hot months, but almost always use the

Reflectix

insulation except those rare (in Texas anyway) Fall or Spring days.

In

summer, the insulation keeps the heat out and the cool in, in

winter it keeps the

heat in and the cold out....Duh!!!

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC


****
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Kent. Wanna sell you USED rack that you don't USE anymore?? ;)

Best,

Billy


--- In ev_update@..., kgkirkley@... wrote:

In a message dated 6/18/08 11:55:45 AM, freeda.peeple@... writes:

I need a roof rack on my 99 EVC, but not much money. Has anyone

here

installed a "homemade rack" or where can I buy a cheap one? Go

Westy

want like 300 bucks! It's nowhere near worth that, IMO!

Thanks, Billy

Billy:

Unless you 'absolutely' have to have a roof rack.......I would

suggest no

going that route.
The roof rack and whatever you mount there will impact your gas

mileage at

least 2-4 mpg.

I have removed my Yakima Tracks towers and just put everything

inside.

An alternative would be a rear hitch mounted carrier......no drag.

Kent Kirkley
'97EVC


****
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
()


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I replaced my speed sensor a few weeks ago. The symptoms were no speedometer, or the needle would swing wildly.

It would also throw a CEL code when it stopped working. I never had an issue with the van not starting.

Are you sure they didn't say cam position sensor? This would make more sense to me. Both would throw a code though.

Steve

636-337-7700
888-797-5994 - order desk

Charley,

That's quite a story about your tranny. Yep. in this case it sounds
as if a new one was in order. However, always remain aware that at
any time, (lest you become "frightened) your tranny may start to not
shift "properly." No rhyme or reason sometimes....sometimes just
decending a steep hill will cause it to "adapt" to the condition &
then not shift out of second or third. I've scared myself a couple
times, until I remembered about the reset "trick." Learn it well!

Wow, parting with that cool Audi for an EVC must have taken
some "guts" but, IMHO, you made the right decision! This van is
unbelievably versatile! And when the apocylypse comes, you can even
live in it, if need be!! ;)

Suggestion #2 - You MUST join LiMBO! Anywhere you in America you need
help, you'll have a network of LiMBO members at your beck & call!
Some will even put you up for the night! At the least, they can point
you to a good local mechanic & give you coffee & a bagel! And you'll
have fun LiMBO sponsored campouts & met LOTS of great folks.
Read this to see why you should join.



Best,

Billy

--- In ev_update@..., "Hale, Charley" <charley.hale@...>
wrote:

Thanks Billy, I'm glad I found it, too. Let's just say that over

the

past 4-5 days (i.e., since my wife and I started getting deadly

serious

about potentially buying this van), I've been trolling the internet
pret-ty intensely!

We got a file folder with chronologically ordered, apparently

totally

complete, service and maintenance records (and in fact I was able to
look those over prior to buying the vehicle, which was good--and

more on

that below...). According to the record for its visit to have a new
transmission installed, the van abruptly "would not go into

reverse".

Yikes. So I dunno, I think maybe in this case, it really did need

a new

one...anyhow, it sure got one. I'll certainly log away your note

below

about the "reset trick", though. Interestingly, the dealer (who
specializes in near-showroom-perfect used high-end Audis and

Porsches,

and didn't know much about the Eurovan at all, in general or in
particular with this unique vehicle), and I, missed this humongous
service receipt (it shows up in the file as like a $48 bill, but the
real big ticket on the bill was "WARRANTY", which we both missed!)
initially, and so I got them to put the van on the rack and drain

out

the ATF, so we could all "witness" the condition of the fluid, see

if

there were a lot of nasty big chunks of steel on the pan magnet,

etc.

Well, as soon as the VIRTUALLY CLEAR ATF started draining out, we

all

started scratching our heads and wondering how it could possibly be
<that> near-new looking! That's when I pulled out the file folder

of

service bills they'd loaned me overnight, and we found that the
transmission had 10,000 miles on it! They were a bit miffed (bye-

bye

$100+ of perfectly good synthetic ATF!), but hey, it wasn't my

fault,

either! At least I know without a doubt that the trannie in this

thing

is..."mint", which is as good a feeling as it gets in that

department.

The one other "achilles heel component" I've read about in my

Eurovan

web wanderings, is the air conditioner compressor. Have you or

others

encountered this as an issue?

Thanks again for the welcome, I'm sure I'll have a lotta more

questions.

Charley

--by the way, I traded in a pretty beloved 2002 Audi TT with 42K

miles

on it, for this van. So, you know you definitely have a new "true
believer" on your hands here! : )

________________________________

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...]

On

Behalf Of FreedaPeeple
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:10 AM
To: ev_update@...
Subject: [ev_update] Re: Newbie must express himself...!



Charles,

Congrats & WELCOME TO EVC PARADISE! :) But I must warn you, this
place can become and ADDICTION real fast, so be prepared!

Actually, you are one of the lucky ones to find this site. Frankly,
as an EVC & EVWK owner, I would be "lost" without it. Here, you

will

find pretty much everything you'll need to know about the care &
maintenance of your EVC. Plus you're sure to make a few great

friends

that are always willing to help!

For starters...there is a good chance the tranny in your EVC just
needed to hae the "magic tranny reset trick" applied. (see files
section) Your EVC has an "adaptive" tranny, meaning it adapts to

your

driving habits, and every once in awhile you'll find it will not
shift past 2nd gear, until "reset" the tranny. Most tranny shops DO
NOT know about the reset "trick" and have taken some unsuspecting

EV

owners for a REAL EXPENSIVE, yet unnecessary "ride!"

Best of luck with your "new" EVC. You've got LOTS to learn. I've

been

here a few years & still learning!

Best, Billy"Seagull"

--- In ev_update@... <mailto:ev_update%

40yahoogroups.com> ,

"Charley Hale" <charley.hale@>
wrote:

Ok, thanks for existing and I'm glad I found you here; just

joined.

I bought one of these crazy things yesterday in Boulder, CO; 2001
Eurovan Camper with 51k miles and super fine shape (as well it

should

be, it was pretty expensive) (but I'm NOT remorseful--we're

really

looking forward to driving and enjoying this van). A few fairly
innocuous dings on the outside, and inside nothing much more than

one

of the two large black handles in the pop-top ceiling having been
yanked on too hard, it would appear (I have the handle and will

be

trying to re-install it better and for good). Its auto

transmission

completely failed in 2004 under warranty and so it now has about

10k

miles on the new one; I <guess> that's a good thing...! Poring

over

the actual machine, and all the extensive documentation that came

with

it. I'm happy to be here!

Charley Hale
Lafayette, CO

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In ev_update@..., "tkirschhofer" <toddk@...> wrote:

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@> wrote:

This response is very interesting because it does seem the rough

ideling started just after I put a new battery in. How can I find out
how to do the throttle body adaption?

Disconnect battery again, reconnect.

Turn ignition on but do not start car. Let it sit w/the ignition on

for a few minutes. Done.

I had the new coil plugs and wires put in yesterday and they reset it
for me and it seems to be ideling better, thanks for the rest info
though. I actually had lots of transmision problems last fall , spent
500 dollars in diagnostic tests with no fix and someone told me that
trick here. 20 sec. and problem gone.

So after 1200 dolars yesterday for coil etc. the vw would not start
for them, which is why I brought it in, in the first place. they are
saying I need a new speed sensor. I have no problems with the
speedometer. Does this sound realistc?

Does what sound realistic? That you keep bringing your van to these
bozos or that they want to sell you a new speed sensor?

--- In ev_update@..., gti_matt <gti_matt@...> wrote:

This response is very interesting because it does seem the rough

ideling started just after I put a new battery in. How can I find out
how to do the throttle body adaption?

Disconnect battery again, reconnect.

Turn ignition on but do not start car. Let it sit w/the ignition on

for a few minutes. Done.

I had the new coil plugs and wires put in yesterday and they reset it
for me and it seems to be ideling better, thanks for the rest info
though. I actually had lots of transmision problems last fall , spent
500 dollars in diagnostic tests with no fix and someone told me that
trick here. 20 sec. and problem gone.

So after 1200 dolars yesterday for coil etc. the vw would not start
for them, which is why I brought it in, in the first place. they are
saying I need a new speed sensor. I have no problems with the
speedometer. Does this sound realistc?

In a message dated 6/20/08 8:34:38 AM, jmagsaysay@... writes:

Kent,
Nice looking install on the A/C.? I'm working on getting mine set up
the same way.? BTW, I like your scope setup as well.? I belong to the
San Diego club and I also have AP equipment.
I'm on my way to the Grand Canyon Star Party this next week and sure
wish I had my window A/C ready.? I installed a MaxxFan recently and
hopefully that will do for now.
Clear Skies,
Jose

Thanks,
Northern Arizona is high enough that perhaps it will have cool enough days to
be bearable.
Good luck.

Kent


****
Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
fuel-efficient used cars.
()

I have searched and searched. Is there ANYWHERE I can get some curtains for my '99 Eurovan
MV? help!!
jan

Well, interference engines can break or bend valves. If you can crank the
engine over, you probably bent valves, and it's repairable. If the valves
broke off, then the engine is junk. Only way to tell for sure is to take it
apart (or use a scope to look inside each cylinder). Best bet is to just
put a junkyard engine in it, but put a new timing belt an tensioner in it
too! 36k is unacceptable for this kind of failure. Bad parts went into
this car, i.e., the tensioner.



Good luck!



Stuart



_____

From: ev_update@... [mailto:ev_update@...] On Behalf
Of TYA2
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:15 PM
To: ev_update@...
Cc: rialta-tech@...
Subject: [ev_update] Interference fit engine & head damage ???





Ok tech experts here is the tough $$$ question. I know that some of you
on the list have the experience of having a timing belt fail and getting
into engine problems. I am looking for information on what happened to
you and how things worked out. This question is not knocking the VW
products, because the engine was in a GM Korea produced Chevy Aveo (4
cylinder 1.6 L gas engine,) Basic scenario at about 40,000 miles on the
odometer.Friday night last he was driving at 60 mph on I-5 north of Seattle
Washington when he lost power in 5th gear, tried shifting down to 4 but
basically the engine died and he coasted to the side of the highway. I
know all this because I was following him in a rental car about 6 car
lengths back. The engine would not start, so we had the vehicle towed to
Everett Chevrolet. Saturday morning the dealer said it must be a timing
belt, I have no mechanic until Monday. It should be an easy job. We
continued back to Canada 900 miles further away. Monday morning I was
told yes it is a timing belt but we have no idea why it failed, there
should be no internal damage. $300. Monday afternoon we were told the
timing belt failed because the tensioner was broken. (one is now
ordered). Tuesday afternoon we were told the head is damaged. (16 valve
engine). The estimate is another $2000.00.... This car had no warranty
it expired at 3 years, 36,000 miles.

Here are my concerns what are the chances the rest of the engine is
TOAST? Even if we change the head and the pistons have no marks on them
what are chance the bits of valves are not going to destroy the engine once
it is put back together? I can do an oil change but are their bits of
debris that won't come out?

I know some of you have done the damaged timing belt, damaged valves and
head scenarios in VWs, what did you decide to do? What would you do?

I can buy a complete factory reman for $4000 or get engines out of wreckers
for 800 to 1400, with installation at about $500. The issues with this
car, is it my son's transportation, we live near Edmonton, Canada, and he
goes to college south of Seattle. We aren't really interested in
warranty, we are interested in reliability. Do we get the car fixed in
Washington, or bring it back to Canada and get the work done here?

Even U-haul is a hassle, they won't rent a tow dolly, they say I need an
auto trailer (ground clearance issues). They won't rent me a pick up
truck to tow a car with and they won't rent me a cube van because I am a
foreigner (so when did being a white Canadian male be such a big
deal?) I mean the last time we invaded the US was about 200 years ago...
and that was under a different king... :>)

Do we just swap the whole engine now and sleep better? My wife is the
worrier. I am the bill payer.

Seattle area listers can you recommend the name of good local independent
shop, or wrecking yards that might have GM products, and honest reliable
towing companies...

Please reply direct to tya2@... <mailto:tya2%404-fly.net>

Reg near Edmonton

Larry -

I was hoping this thread would last at least another
few days, so we could get a few more votes on the
"Avoid Off-Topic Posts" list.

It did show how the bogus mam-made "Global Warming"
is mostly politics - & has become a new religion -
"don't look at science, just BELIEVE".

Oh, well- it was fun while it lasted. I had many a
laugh while working on ladders on top of my EVC
today.

Regards,

Jack_son
================
--In ev_update@..., Larry Schellhase <schellhase@.> wrote:

Could we get back to EVs and EVCs? If you really need to discuss

life style and the human ability to adapt to the environment or not I
would hope there is an appropriate place for you to do that. IMO this
is not the place.

Cheers,
Larry
LA, CA

The Black [+] lead from non-battery sde of relay
goes to an insulated tie point terminal, just
forward of the Converter. The converter is
connected to that tie point, & to
rear battery [+] terminal - with a Black Wire.
There is another circuit breaker near the rear
bat. When the converter is NOT connected to
shore power, the rear bat is conectred to the
3 DC rear outlets, & appliances, & to the front
firewall relay.

BTW, on my '03 EVC, I had a very poor crimp on
one lug on the front 30A breaker. There was also
a defective identical 30A breaker inside the
Converter-Charger [excess drop with 6A load], so
my rear bat never got a full charge, from
alternator or on shore power. I drove back to
selling dealer a few weeks after purchase, but
they "found nothing wrong" [missed BOTH problems].
Good old Winnie, & VW - who never saw an EVC they
welcomed back 'home'.

BTW, I used Red and Black electrical tape to
chamge color code of ALL of Winebago's "house
wiring code", so anyone testing, jumping, etc.
would not be confused. No one working on a vehicle
ever considers BLACK = Positive. I changed colors
as different ends of ALL Winnie wires were exposed
while working on my van.

Jack_son
'03 EVC '01 Passat
===============
--In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@.> wrote:

Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above the
battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-

breaker

inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and fuse
checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection for
distribution?

--- In ev_update@..., "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:

There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the engine is
running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear

battery.

A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually

about

$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There should

be 3

wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts
holding it to the wall.

Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close to

the

rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it with

a

non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.

Duane
05HD Rialta


--- In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@>

wrote:

My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged by

the

altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an THEN!

I

go on

a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge cold

while

driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any juice

at

the

battery with the engine running and the alternator showed 14.5

VDC

output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged the

coach

battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come

to

the

conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the

shoreline and

the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1)

am

I

correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do I

change

it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help.

I installed them myself:) The hardest part was cutting the openings
in the interior panels for the seatbelt to guide through. My dremmel
didnt like it! Thank you again this was a great and cost affective
solution to my problem! They look and worl great and my neurosis is
at ease!







--- In ev_update@..., "Carl Henderson" <chendermi@...>
wrote:

GoWesty carries retrofit kits to add three-point belts for the
rear-facing Eurovan seats.

Do a product search at www.gowesty.com for "ktemv" and they'll come

up.

Carl

--- In ev_update@..., "Todd and Dana" <ddc_jtc@>

wrote:

Anyone know if I can put shoulder harness seatbelts on the rear

facing

seats in the 2003 EVMV or somehow convert it to having forward

facing

seats with shoulder harness seat belt? My rear bench has 2

shoulder and

one lap and the middle seats face rearward and have lap belts. I

have 3

young kids and am slightly nuerotic about seatbelts. Any

thoughts out

there besides get over the seatbely nuerosis? I love my van and

this

would make it perfect. The only problem I have with it.

Look for a circuit breaker or fuse at the coach battery location.

Richard Cox

--- In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@...>
wrote:

Thanks... the solenoid is located on the firewall just above the
battery and checks out! From there, there is a 30 amp circut-

breaker

inside with the regular fuses... current at the breaker and fuse
checks out. Questions is, where is the wire's next connection for
distribution?

--- In ev_update@..., "txpigeon" <txpigeon@> wrote:

There's a solenoid that is supposed to pick up when the engine is
running (actually, when the key is on) to recharge the rear

battery.

A lot of auto parts places have them or can get them. Usually

about

$20. Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid. There should

be 3

wires, 2 heavy and 1 small. Also a couple of bolts and/or nuts
holding it to the wall.

Can't help with the location, but I'd guess it's pretty close to

the

rear battery. When you find it, you might try rapping on it with

a

non-metallic object. May get you by until you get one.

Duane
05HD Rialta


--- In ev_update@..., "jastamford" <johnstamford@>

wrote:

My 95 was working fine with the coach battery being charged by

the

altnator while driving or by shoreline when parked... an THEN!

I

go on

a trip and the coach batter goes dead keeping the refridge cold

while

driving. A volt meter told me that I was not getting any juice

at

the

battery with the engine running and the alternator showed 14.5

VDC

output at the battery under the hood. Shoreline recharged the

coach

battery no problem. In trying to fix the problem, I have come

to

the

conclusion that there is a relay the switches between the

shoreline and

the alternator to charge the coach battery... question is; 1)

am

I

correct? 2) where the hell did wennibago hide it? 3) how do I

change

it? and 4) where to buy a replacement? That for anyone's help.