开云体育

Just got home from doing it. What a great thing it is, too.
Hey, all the rest of you Eurovanners & Microbussers, join us next
year! Good people, good eats, good cause.
And great tee shirts, too.

Jim - please keep my address and let me know when next years' walk is
scheduled.

Paul in Pittsfield

IBruce-

I was trying to put a hose down the tube also--couldn't get to far and NO
soot--I could see because it was a clear hose. When I went to put it back
together to take to a show I realized that I did not install the new inner
part of the vent cover. And then I thought why not light it and see what
happens. Well that was it! It stayed lit for 100 miles of hiway traveling.
Crazy.
Forest

Jeff, Do you know the length of your Yakima bars? I found pair on Craig's
that are 56 inches wide. The Rack Attack people said they thought I needed
58 inches but their gear is 10 times the price. Thanks, Glen

The _BusFusion_ () website has
been recently updated. Registration deadline of May 31 is fast approaching.
Register now if you want a BusFusion 2008 T-shirt !

Le site web de _BusFusion_ ()
a été mis à jour récemment. La date d'échéance pous s'inscrire , soit le
31 mai, approche à grand pas donc,inscrivez-vous maintenant si vous voulez
obtenir le gaminet BusFusion 2008 !



Cheers,

Frank Condelli
Almonte, Ontario, Canada
_BusFusion_ () a VW Camper
camping event, Almonte, ON, June 12 ~ 15, 2008

I have a 1995 EV and my propane/grey water/fresh water/batt indicator lights just stopped
working...Has anyone an easy fix???Thanks...Ray

If I remember correctly, the EVC has a radio and speakers that are different
from all other Eurovan models. Many of us non-EVC owners are quite satisfied
with the original front-door speakers. Should any EVC owner desire the
original front door speakers in perfect condition from a Weekender, let me know.

Bob W.




****Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
()

Actually, the door speakers are 6 3/4 and the biggest issue you will
run into is finding some that are shallow enough to fit if you want a
OEM look. The cutout in the dash is for 4 inch speakers - you can
easily remove the current tweeters but also finding replacements is a
bit tricky.
The wiring is going from the stereo to the tweeter to the door speakers.

The rear panel speakers are 5 inch and there are no good and easy
replacements avail. I tried a couple of things but at the end of the
day it seemed easiest to just leave the stock speakers in.

I replaced the door speakers with a set of Sony's (cut off the coax
tweeter) and replaced the dash tweeters with a set of coaxes
(Infinities). I then added an external crossover. Net result is more
transparence in the mids and highs, still mumbling weak lows (which
almost entirely disappear when going more than 45 mph.
Its hard to make it into a concert hall.
And yes, first thing replace the stock radio unit. It sucks.
Florian
03 MVWK

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the ev_update
group.

File : /Spark Plug Replacement 2001.doc
Uploaded by : swim4au2001 <Sea2river@...>
Description : Spark Plug Replacement 2001-2003

You can access this file at the URL:


To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:


Regards,

swim4au2001 <Sea2river@...>

Two years after I had some body work done on my 99 EVC both the radio and the speakers were blown out, don't know what happened in the body shop.

Anyway, I took it to Al & Ed's Autosound and replaced the radio with an Alpine. The manager said that the only speakers that would fit the existing cutouts were MB Quart 6.5" speakers. MB Quart is a German company. The speakers were expensive at $250 for the pair but they fit and sound great. For some reason neither the tweeters (dash speakers) or the rear speakers were affected.

Larry
LA, CA

drnich2222 <drnich2222@...> wrote: I just got my 2003 EVC about a month ago. The stereo had been replaced
w/ a Sony. I was planning to replace the speakers soon. I know the
doors are 6 /12. What about the dash? I took off the cover and it
looks kinda funky. Will aftermarket speakers mount ok? What size?

Forest

I replied to your earlier email before I read this one. I first tried to stick a medium piece of Tygon tubing into the exhaust pipe but could not get it to go in very far. The size of my shop vac hose is almost exactly the same size as the frige exhaust port. All I used for a seal was my hand wrapped around the joint between the hose and the pipe. My shop vac is a handheld unit - Stinger. I have a large one but didn't feel like getting it out. The vac hose is about 1 1/4 inches in diameter. Oh yeah...I also tapped on the exhaust tube a bit with a hammer prior to applying suction. As I posted back when the fridge issue was the group's curent dead horse, I also discovered that my coach battery charge was quite low.

Bruce

forest flanigan <creoflan@...> wrote:
Mine works fine on the LP--I've never run it on either AC or DC. I went to a
a rebuilder for the part I needed so I didn't have to deal with the maker.
I tried to put a small hose hooked up to a large shop-vac but couldn't get
it more than 8" in. --How did you do it Bruce? What size hose?
Forest

Forest

I found that there was nothing to it...just take off the vent cover and put the end of the hose tight against the fridge exhaust. As I said...I got lots of soot out.

Bruce

forest flanigan <creoflan@...> wrote:
Hey Bruce-
I haven't tried that but I plan on making a setup to do it. I pulled the
fridge out last October (just after i got it) when it wasn't working at all.
At that time I found the burner completely plugged. I cleaned the burner.
The flue I cleaned with a brush i have for the propane fridge in my house.
Yes, I live with these things full time! What a joy. These units should be
cleaned at least once a year --twice if you use them alot so having a system
to clean it without taking it out is a good thing. I can't understand why
Norcold designed this fridge with no access to clean out the burner box. The
obvious problem with cleaning out the flue without access to the burner is
soot getting inthe burner. I have the feeling that Winnabago browbeat them
into this design. If you don't do this for us we will go to Dometic. I'm
sure that Norcold doesn't like to deal with the inherent problems of this
design and wish that all eurovans would go away or that we change to other
fridges. I guess we're all out of warranty now. So If you do use the vacuum
method be sure your shop vac is working well.

Forest

i did do the modification on the front hose as listed in the files
section. mine however wasnt sagging much and wasnt i believe
restricting the flow. it was while doing this that i found the back
hole on the furnace box open that was blowing the air out also. as
stated covering this hole greatly increased the air flow to the ducting
by the bench seat. anyone else found this hole uncovered? i wonder if
the furnace was worked on previously and this was inadvertently left
uncovered.

I just got my 2003 EVC about a month ago. The stereo had been replaced
w/ a Sony. I was planning to replace the speakers soon. I know the
doors are 6 /12. What about the dash? I took off the cover and it
looks kinda funky. Will aftermarket speakers mount ok? What size?

Found a loose heat shield on the catalytic converter that was making noise
when the EV was transiting over rough roads. The heat shield on the 2001 EV
is held to the bottom of the cat by four welds. In my case, the front two
welds had broken sometime in the last 122,000 miles. I figured I had three
choices: replace the cat with one with a new heat shield, tear off the loose heat
shield, or refasten the old heat shield. I elected the latter, obtained two
stainless steel screw-type dryer vent clamps ($1.60 each), joined them in
tandem, wrapped them around the cat and the heat shield, and tightened the
screws. All's quiet.

Bob W.
2001 Weekender



****Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
()

Mine works fine on the LP--I've never run it on either AC or DC. I went to a
a rebuilder for the part I needed so I didn't have to deal with the maker.
I tried to put a small hose hooked up to a large shop-vac but couldn't get
it more than 8" in. --How did you do it Bruce? What size hose?
Forest

We sold our 2002 Weekender and have left two sets of seat covers:

1. Neoprene by Wet Okole (www.okole.com) in red Hawaiian print with black borders (color
no.33). Covers for front buckets, two rear buckets and a gray custom cover for the rear pad.
These are all custom made and are in very good condition. There is some fading and a little
staining in places, but very hard to notice. Pictures available on request. We paid almost
$1000 for these two years ago. Asking $350.

2. Dark gray sheepskin covers for front buckets. Very good condition. $75.

Please e-mail me at costelloatwesternlawdot.org (obviously substitute @ and . for the
words).

Thanks,

Greg

Bruce & Forest -

Interesting info on Norcold. I've never run
my '03 EVC Norcold on LP since I checked at
dealer. It does ok on DC, & great on AC. Pre-
cooling before a trip, &/or starting with
several frozen water bottles keeps food cool
without much run time the first day +. I
also added a grid, which keeps everything
off of the bottom, allowing air circulation
+ keeping things out of condensation puddles.
I like the little DC fan mentioned here
recently.

Some add the high altitude mod. Would this
extra vent help when doing a 'vacuum + blow'
cleaning? If so, the mod may be worth it, if
it is still available.

Norcold is difficult to deal with. I made a
point of NOT telling them I had a VW Camper
when I phoned them twice. I spent a long
time on phone each time, trying to buy
plug-in AC & DC cords for a Norcold AC-DC
chest style Freezer-Cooler. They referred
me to a local RV dealer that not only didn't
stock the cords, but they had never even
seen the Norcold portable units - "but they
would be happy to order - - -"

I called Norcold again, & told them I just
wanted to know polarity of the 2 DC pins.
They refused to give it verbally, via fax,
email, or refer me to anyone who could help.
I had to take the 70# unit apart & trace
circuit.

The Freezer-Cooler works great, & you only
have to adjust the thermostat to drop below
freezing. Even with the compressor, it is
more efficient than either of my solid
state coolers. I wish it was made in China,
& had a Chinese # to call for service.

I shaved down a computer card for the AC, &
modified a second one for the DC. It is a
GREAT unit, from a company with NO customer
service. It was a 'freebie', so waiting for
$50 cords to check it out was not an option.

Regards,

Jack_son
=======================
--In ev_update@..., "forest flanigan" <creoflan@...>
wrote:

Hey Bruce-
I haven't tried that but I plan on making a setup to do it. I

pulled the

fridge out last October (just after i got it) when it wasn't

working at all.

At that time I found the burner completely plugged. I cleaned the

burner.

The flue I cleaned with a brush i have for the propane fridge in my

house.

Yes, I live with these things full time! What a joy. These units

should be

cleaned at least once a year --twice if you use them alot so having

a system

to clean it without taking it out is a good thing. I can't

understand why

Norcold designed this fridge with no access to clean out the burner

box. The

obvious problem with cleaning out the flue without access to the

burner is

soot getting inthe burner. I have the feeling that Winnabago

browbeat them

into this design. If you don't do this for us we will go to

Dometic. I'm

sure that Norcold doesn't like to deal with the inherent problems

of this

design and wish that all eurovans would go away or that we change

to other

fridges. I guess we're all out of warranty now. So If you do use

the vacuum

method be sure your shop vac is working well.

Forest

Although I have no plans call my EVC anything other than "the van" (my wife's car is the BMW), I have always thought Tantive V would be an appropriate name
for an EVC.

- you will recall that when we last saw our heroine, Leia, she was at the heart of many of the Rebel Alliance's most secret missions, using her consular
ship, the Tantive IV to travel throughout the galaxy with diplomatic immunity.

It ain't Teutonic but I think it is a great image. Especially for a member of the Imperial Senate.


Dale Lucas <da_lucas@...> wrote: My wife named the thing "Dora the Explora".
Dale, 97 EVC
Portland, Oregon
Dave <swampstomperus@...> wrote:
I think someone else on the list has used this in the past, but we call
ours "Vincent" as in it's a "van" and it does "go" (except when I'm
having immobilizer issues). The latest fix from the stealer is that it
needs a new battery. I can't complain. It's a 2001 with the original
battery, so it doesn't owe me anything....

Dave
Hollywood FL 2001 Weekender

Look at the file "furnacefix.jpg" in the files section to see what
Pete is talking about.


BD

--- In ev_update@..., "Pete Peterson" <tds3pete@...>
wrote:

Your assumption is correct. That rear outlet should have had a

cover on

it. Another thing to do is to straighten out the forward running
plastic duct that droops over time. This is the duct that runs from

the

furnace to the double outlet by the seat. If your interior plastic

is

still off, it is something to do, but not worth the effort to go in

and

do it. There is a description and picture of this fix in the files.

Pete

--- In ev_update@..., "dshel17" <dshel17@> wrote:

On my 95 EVC furnace i noticed that the rear hatch door was

getting

very warm when the furnace would blow. When looking at the

furnace I

noticed on the opposite side of the unit where the outlet duct

blows

air forward, there was another hole facing rearward that i assume
another duct could be attached. I assume this was for

applications

where you would want two ducts attached going opposite

directions.

Anyway, hot air was coming out this hole serving no purpose. I

made a

little aluminum cover with tabs that would twistlock in and cover

this

hole. Upon doing this the air volume coming out the front air

duct

was

significantly greater and my furnace works much better and heats

the

interior much quicker.

Your assumption is correct. That rear outlet should have had a cover on
it. Another thing to do is to straighten out the forward running
plastic duct that droops over time. This is the duct that runs from the
furnace to the double outlet by the seat. If your interior plastic is
still off, it is something to do, but not worth the effort to go in and
do it. There is a description and picture of this fix in the files.

Pete

--- In ev_update@..., "dshel17" <dshel17@...> wrote:

On my 95 EVC furnace i noticed that the rear hatch door was getting
very warm when the furnace would blow. When looking at the furnace I
noticed on the opposite side of the unit where the outlet duct blows
air forward, there was another hole facing rearward that i assume
another duct could be attached. I assume this was for applications
where you would want two ducts attached going opposite directions.
Anyway, hot air was coming out this hole serving no purpose. I made a
little aluminum cover with tabs that would twistlock in and cover

this

hole. Upon doing this the air volume coming out the front air duct

was

significantly greater and my furnace works much better and heats the
interior much quicker.