Re: ECU for 1993 Eurovan (manual trans)
Very nice to know.? Maybe I'll hold on to it them.
But still, if anybody is in the market... lmk.
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Intake Air Pre-Heater Hose (I think) has a hole/rip in it
Can anybody confirm that this is the Intake Air Pre-Heater Hose?
It is behind the engine and close the the exhaust manufold.
I was inspecting, and I noticed that it appears to have a hole/rip in it.
I'm not sure if this would have a real impact on performance, but guessing any holes in hoses are bad.
But what would be the impact of this?? I live in San Diego... so not sure that the pre-heating matters... but dirty air would be bad. I can't really tell about how to connect a new one.? Looks like it just slides on the engine side.? The air filter side is hidden, and I can't tell how it would attach. Any tips?   
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On Mon, Sep 9, 2024 at 10:00?AM Droppin bombs via <duckdive= [email protected]> wrote: If you do, please document it for everyone. My heater core is shot, and I'm considering dropping my dash.
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I have seen a video where a guy repaired his blender door without dropping it.? Not helpful for me, but if that is your issue, you could try that... tho with the fire, you may want to take a look around.
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If you do, please document it for everyone. My heater core is shot, and I'm considering dropping my dash.
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I have seen a video where a guy repaired his blender door without dropping it.? Not helpful for me, but if that is your issue, you could try that... tho with the fire, you may want to take a look around.
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I believe the vacuum goes through the firewall at the same location as the heater hoses. On mine there is a barb connector that the vacuum hoses connect on either side of the firewall.
Good luck?
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Re: Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
I was able to find TDC using the "rod in #1 plug hole" method.
Then I re-adjusted the distributor to have the "pointer" at #1 spot on cap.
Tried starting several times with no luck.
Then adjusted distributor a few degrees each attempt until it started/ran reliably.
If starting seemed worse, I changed direction.
Prob gonna have a shop fine tune it.
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I think you¡¯re right I was hoping not to have to drop the dash.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 6:02?PM Domokos Hadnagy via <domokos.hadnagy= [email protected]> wrote: I can move the blender door by hand by actuating the solenoid. The switch doesn¡¯t actuate the solenoid so I¡¯m fairly certain that there is no vacuum coming to it. It is such a rats nest under there that I can¡¯t see where it goes through the firewall. I think my best bet is to try to figure out if there is a vacuum there at all and any suggestions?? I had a 20 second fire in the engine compartment that melted some of the vacuum lines. I think I¡¯ve replaced them all.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 5:34?PM George Parrino via <geoverde= [email protected]> wrote: Arev you sure the blender door haven't lost all their foam covering? I believe one can see where the vacuum diaphragm is on the blender box, can it be traced from there? May have to drop the dash to see.
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I can move the blender door by hand by actuating the solenoid. The switch doesn¡¯t actuate the solenoid so I¡¯m fairly certain that there is no vacuum coming to it. It is such a rats nest under there that I can¡¯t see where it goes through the firewall. I think my best bet is to try to figure out if there is a vacuum there at all and any suggestions?? I had a 20 second fire in the engine compartment that melted some of the vacuum lines. I think I¡¯ve replaced them all.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2024 at 5:34?PM George Parrino via <geoverde= [email protected]> wrote: Arev you sure the blender door haven't lost all their foam covering? I believe one can see where the vacuum diaphragm is on the blender box, can it be traced from there? May have to drop the dash to see.
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Arev you sure the blender door haven't lost all their foam covering? I believe one can see where the vacuum diaphragm is on the blender box, can it be traced from there? May have to drop the dash to see.
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Working on the air conditioner on my 1995 Eurovan. I discovered that I wasn¡¯t getting adequate flow from my air conditioner. The air was very low.. taking off the panels below the dashboard I discovered that the blender door for heat is mechanically controlled, but the blender door for the air conditioner is vacuum controlled.
I am trying to determine two things ¡¡Where does the vacuum line come through the firewall from the engine to the dashboard? I can¡¯t find it.
And secondly, how does one test if the vacuum system is sealed and working?
Any help would be appreciated
thank you
Domokos
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Re: Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
Also worth checking¡did you get OEM type or China version? I ask because I learned this lesson the hard way years ago.
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On Sep 7, 2024, at 2:07?AM, Kyle via groups.io <kboberlee@...> wrote:
Timing is probably off. If you have the firing order correct. It¡¯s timing. Not to hard to set it on these but you will need a timing light.? I replaced my 1993 distributor.? I took care to mark the bolt locations.? I put the wires back to the same spots.
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When I start, it hesitates and then it stalls.
Starting my research now.
Figure I'd post while I'm searching.
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Re: Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
Timing is probably off. If you have the firing order correct. It¡¯s timing. Not to hard to set it on these but you will need a timing light.?
I replaced my 1993 distributor.? I took care to mark the bolt locations.? I put the wires back to the same spots.
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When I start, it hesitates and then it stalls.
Starting my research now.
Figure I'd post while I'm searching.
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Replaced distributor - now hesitates when starting then stalls
I replaced my 1993 distributor.? I took care to mark the bolt locations.? I put the wires back to the same spots.
?
When I start, it hesitates and then it stalls.
Starting my research now.
Figure I'd post while I'm searching.
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I had a small, very short fire in my van, due to a gas leak, and a spark from a bad wire. With the help of people on this site, I¡¯ve been able to make the repairs. however, I still have one problem. It appears one of the vacuum lines melted and I can¡¯t find where it¡¯s supposed to go. If anyone has this version of eurovan, r. R five cylinder, please take a look at the pictures. Perhaps you can tell me where the vacuum line is supposed to go thanks again in advance..Domokos
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Re: ECU for 1993 Eurovan (manual trans)
Yes, I've done a bunch of ECU research while fixing my own.
Do you have your old ECU?
The 1993 units have a letter designation that follows the ECU P/N
The relevant information that is specific to that letter designation is stored on the EEPROM chip inside the ECU.
I've confirmed this: You only need to swap the EEPROM to change what vehicle the ECU supports.
For example, if you own a "H" unit, you can buy a "G" unit, and swap the EEPROM to make it an "H" unit.
I was able to buy an ECU from a 1993 Eurovan (manual trans) recently.
I didn't know the EV was manual, and as I understand / compared, the ECU is different from my auto trans 1993 EV ECU.
Anybody with a manual in San Diego area that needs one?? I want to get my money and time back.
Also, I have VCDS, and I'm wondering if I were to hook it up to mine... just to get a scan to validate it responds properly... I was thinking I should disconnect my TCM first though.
Or does anybody have any thoughts on how to validate the ECU?
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ECU for 1993 Eurovan (manual trans)
I was able to buy an ECU from a 1993 Eurovan (manual trans) recently.
I didn't know the EV was manual, and as I understand / compared, the ECU is different from my auto trans 1993 EV ECU.
Anybody with a manual in San Diego area that needs one?? I want to get my money and time back.
Also, I have VCDS, and I'm wondering if I were to hook it up to mine... just to get a scan to validate it responds properly... I was thinking I should disconnect my TCM first though.
Or does anybody have any thoughts on how to validate the ECU?
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Re: 2002 transmision with the. GoWesty cooler 224f deg
When you say stuck, what do you mean?? High trans temp so you don't want to drive?? Limp mode? Something else?
Have you had a shop diagnose?? Have you scanned?
I've been stuck in Reno before (on the way to )'( )? - partial story and later follow up here - http://www.eurovanrescue.com/2019/06/23/have-you-ever-seen-a-tcm-that-is-damaged/
By the "stuck in Reno" comment and timing, are you passing through? Which way did you arrive in Reno? 80, 395 or other?
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2002 transmision with the. GoWesty cooler 224f deg
I am stuck in Reno for the night I have 177000 miles and the scan gage usuals at 179 went to 224 and would no come down There is a small leak somewhere but can¡¯t tell if this cause of overheating
I will check the auto trans fluid tomorrow and run a scan check using my laptop and the VCDS light program
Any ? suggestions
Bernard
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Re: Eurovan Gasoline Fumes when Hot & High - Recap
Replacement of the N80 purge valve on 1997 EVC 8/24/24
Tested the old N80 valve. Applied 12 volts DC, it clicked. I could, by blowing on the input side, get some air to pass, but very little and I had to blow very hard.
I replaced the original Bosch 0-280-142-308 valve with an aftermarket URO P/N UR-077133517C. Tested the new N80 valve and could easily blow air through it with 12 volts applied.
The N80 is attached to the same support used to support the radiator reservoir, with the use of an additional bracket, a bolt, and a clever rubber fitting that holds and surrounds the valve.
Replaced the hose from the Intake manifold to the N80 with some Fuel line/PCV/EEC hose 5/16¡±, part# NBH H176, from NAPA and added hose clamps.
Reused the short piece of hose from the input side of the N80 valve. This hose is 3¡±- 4¡± long and formed into an ¡°L¡± shape. It looks to have a part number on it of ¡°VW DE COO 701 201 801 C32 96¡± This hose runs horizontally towards the driver¡¯s side and then drops down once past the radiator reservoir support. VW even put a slight notch in the support and added a piece of rubber to prevent it from cutting into the hose as it turns downward after passing the radiator reservoir support.
Attached a NAPA fuel filter part # FIL 3002, using some of the new hose from NAPA and some more hose clamps. The filter ¡°nests¡± vertically behind the radiator reservoir, and pressed up against the vacuum boost for the breaks. It sits about an inch forward of where the original hose came up to meet the N80 valve, so the rubber on the notch was removed and saved for posterity.
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If anyone sees something that looks problematic drop me a line. In the meantime, I will monitor the filter and see if the new, functional N80 valve helps with the fuel vapor issue.
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Re: Eurovan Gasoline Fumes when Hot & High - Recap
On Fri, Aug 23, 2024 at 03:27 PM, JallyCamper wrote:
it looks huge, 2" diameter and 4" long. Up stream of the N80 valve is understood, but where precisely?
It basically replaces the hose from the driver end of the N80 to the upright solid line.? The only 'old' hose you need is enough to make the connections.
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Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles
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Sean Robinson
Duane