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Re: New topic = new thread please

 

Okay, thanks! You're right. I was on that page but not logged in. I hadn't set a password, so it gave me a log in link, then invited me to set a password. I'm all set up now and see the New Topic button. Thanks again.

On Monday, June 3, 2024 at 06:39:41 AM CDT, Duane <txpigeon@...> wrote:


On Mon, Jun 3, 2024 at 01:10 AM, John Kolak wrote:
Where is this forum page? I don't see anything like that at groups.io, and I only have the email list subscription.
The group Home page is at /g/eurovanupdate.? If you're signed in, you'll see a menu on the left side of the page that includes New Topic as about the 4th item down.? If you're not seeing that, then you're not logged in.? There's a Members Manual that includes instructions for logging in, even if you've never done so.? Note that if you're using the Groups.io app, things will look different on the small screen, but it's all still there.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles


2000 EVW alternator swap and brush change: 150A to 90A

 

This alternator service/swap 150a to 90a was done as and experiment since I decided I didn¡¯t needed the big bad 150a for my needs and could possibly achieve some very small MPG gains w a 90a. Now 3 years later I can say there¡¯s no noticeable difference...

FYI the alternator on my 4-cyl AHU TDI engine is the same as the ones on the VR6 engines and IIRC the 93-95 5-cyl models as well. ?The two are a direct swap physically. Later 2001-2003 models might have a different two pin plug style (oval vs. square) but this is something easily remedied by sourcing the correct plug (ubiquitous and STD on a basically all VW models (Jetta, Passat, Golf, Etc) in a variety of places on the wiring harness pre 2000) and replacing yours with that¡ªslickly by re-pinning but functionally the same via shadetree methods by cutting the OE plug and installing the correct one to match the alt via your preferred method, soldering or quick butt to butt wire coupler.?

?

150a alternator on the top, 90a on the bottom?

Brushes still functional with normal wear but down to the last 25%. Bentley wear limit is 0.10mm iirc so always to go still technically but as they say, ¡°an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure¡­¡±

New brush pack on L

New brushes installed?


Part number for reference?
?Post is copied from my recent blogpost:
?


--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd

501k mi :-)


Re: New topic = new thread please

 

On Mon, Jun 3, 2024 at 01:10 AM, John Kolak wrote:
Where is this forum page? I don't see anything like that at groups.io, and I only have the email list subscription.
The group Home page is at /g/eurovanupdate.? If you're signed in, you'll see a menu on the left side of the page that includes New Topic as about the 4th item down.? If you're not seeing that, then you're not logged in.? There's a Members Manual that includes instructions for logging in, even if you've never done so.? Note that if you're using the Groups.io app, things will look different on the small screen, but it's all still there.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles


Re: New topic = new thread please

 

Where is this forum page? I don't see anything like that at groups.io, and I only have the email list subscription.

On Sunday, June 2, 2024 at 08:58:12 PM CDT, Justin Soares <greaseworks@...> wrote:


Just as a general rule of thumb / good forum etiquette: ?when posting a completely new topic please start your own thread! It¡¯s simple, just click on the ¡°New Topic¡¯ button on the L menu bar (4th one down). Thread hijacking is becoming very common here and it detracts from the functionality of the well-oiled machine / searchable repository of information this forum could be. We will all benefit from this simple action.


--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd

501k mi :-)


New topic = new thread please

 

Just as a general rule of thumb / good forum etiquette: ?when posting a completely new topic please start your own thread! It¡¯s simple, just click on the ¡°New Topic¡¯ button on the L menu bar (4th one down). Thread hijacking is becoming very common here and it detracts from the functionality of the well-oiled machine / searchable repository of information this forum could be. We will all benefit from this simple action.


--
Justin
2000 EVW 1.9TDI Syncro 5-spd

501k mi :-)


Re: 3D printer designs for Eurovans

 

I have published one somewhere for the shelf brackets and a led 3rd brake light adapter

brake light is here (with the stl)

will have to dig out the shelf bracket if you want it



Le 2 juin 2024, 05:26 +0200, John Kolak via groups.io <johnkolak@...>, a ¨¦crit :

I posted my local Eurovan mechanic to eurovanrescue.com, but the Register page is not working for me to set up my account.

On Friday, May 31, 2024 at 10:37:29 AM CDT, Droppin bombs via groups.io <duckdive@...> wrote:


Just curious is there is a good repository of 3D printer designs for Eurovans.

If not, maybe I can start one. I've got access to several small 3D printers at my school (just need to buy media).

As these parts get more difficult to find, might be nice to have a resource for 3D printing some parts

A quick google yields some results - among others

I could use one of those little black screw caps that goes on the cabin fluorescent bulb covers.

I'll go ahead and start a post on eurovanrescue.com with some of the resources I find.


Re: 3D printer designs for Eurovans

 

I posted my local Eurovan mechanic to eurovanrescue.com, but the Register page is not working for me to set up my account.

On Friday, May 31, 2024 at 10:37:29 AM CDT, Droppin bombs via groups.io <duckdive@...> wrote:


Just curious is there is a good repository of 3D printer designs for Eurovans.

If not, maybe I can start one. I've got access to several small 3D printers at my school (just need to buy media).

As these parts get more difficult to find, might be nice to have a resource for 3D printing some parts

A quick google yields some results - among others

I could use one of those little black screw caps that goes on the cabin fluorescent bulb covers.

I'll go ahead and start a post on eurovanrescue.com with some of the resources I find.


Re: 3D printer designs for Eurovans

 

Great idea. I have a couple of 3D printers for small parts. I¡¯d be happy to help print some out. ?I do a fair amount of CAD, so maybe even do some ¡°upgrades¡± if wanted.?


Re: can I drive van with door harness removed

 

The OEM wire bundle is thick and doesn¡¯t flex, so it bends into a Z shape and the wires begin to break at the sharp bends. I only replaced the section removed for repair and did not add any length. You will find that all the wires will not need repair. After repair I wrapped the bundle with the same type OEM tape, sticky fabric black tape. Exercising the door with wires in place before attaching the door panel will show you the movement path, it will be minimal and seems to be acceptable. When splicing in sections try to use like gauge. If you do one at a time you will reduce your chance of a mistake, I used a piece of wood to separate out the wire being worked on from the bundle, made it easier to do soldering, also did not twist wires but just a half inch side by side solder joint making it easy to slide over the shrink wrap. Good luck!


3D printer designs for Eurovans

 

Just curious is there is a good repository of 3D printer designs for Eurovans.

If not, maybe I can start one. I've got access to several small 3D printers at my school (just need to buy media).

As these parts get more difficult to find, might be nice to have a resource for 3D printing some parts

A quick google yields some results - among others

I could use one of those little black screw caps that goes on the cabin fluorescent bulb covers.

I'll go ahead and start a post on eurovanrescue.com with some of the resources I find.


Re: can I drive van with door harness removed

 

Thanks for that info Bill. I haven't pulled the panel yet to see where the clamp is and where the wires are broken but plan to add about 6" of wire. Do you think that is too much or too little? If you don't clamp on the door side does the wire just hang or float inside the door? Thanks for the info.
Spencer


On Thu, May 30, 2024 at 8:40?AM Bill Wiggins via <billwiggins=[email protected]> wrote:
I repaired this harness on my 2003, I found a design flaw, the harness has nowhere to move when door is moved, it¡¯s clamped at both ends, inside door and in cabin. Since it needs to be clamped in the cabin, being behind fuse panel, I recommend not clamping it in the door. When you inspect the harness you will see what I found, where all the wires are breaking inside the rubber tube. I repaired by soldering in wire sections using heat shrink over the connection. It¡¯s been holding for a few years now.


Re: front door pull handle cover removal 02mv

 

Thanks all!? I got some from ebay someplace in between those two prices.? It fit *ok* but I'm going to try to adjust this weekend.? The hardest part was pulling the pin from the handle lever to get the new rubber gasket in place, and then doing the angle-tilt dance to actually put the handle back in.? I made the mistake of not paying attention to the angle when I removed it, but youtube had the answer ;)? ()

Appreciate all the help!? next up is trying to deal with the black vinyl on the B and C pillars that is peeling and cracking.? I bought a kit a year ago with precut pieces, but have been intimidated by the removal and trying to tuck the ends in without removing the windows.

MJ


On Thu, May 30, 2024 at 6:51?AM Bob H via <bob=[email protected]> wrote:
Maybe try Ali Express...? DZ Auto Parts Store.??



--
Menko Johnson


Re: front door pull handle cover removal 02mv

 

Maybe try Ali Express...? DZ Auto Parts Store.??


Re: can I drive van with door harness removed

 

I repaired this harness on my 2003, I found a design flaw, the harness has nowhere to move when door is moved, it¡¯s clamped at both ends, inside door and in cabin. Since it needs to be clamped in the cabin, being behind fuse panel, I recommend not clamping it in the door. When you inspect the harness you will see what I found, where all the wires are breaking inside the rubber tube. I repaired by soldering in wire sections using heat shrink over the connection. It¡¯s been holding for a few years now.


Re: Water Incursion Mystery

 

Check the door seal.


Re: front door pull handle cover removal 02mv

 

Search on Amazon, VW 701837209. Found the original underlay for $33.40.


Exhaust manifold - EV 93 - accordion piece between the two solid pieces

 

Anybody ever replaced just the corrugated tubing piece between the two solid pieces on the 93 exhaust manifold?

I cannot find the part available for sale other than foreign ebay/online... and expensive or part of a used assembly.? Not sure I trust it.

But, there seem to be a bunch of similar types of pieces... e.g.

If I cannot find and OEM part, I'm thinking I'd find the closest spec/dimension.? The OEM assembly does use clamps so I'm hoping that a very close fit would work.
The current spare exhaust manifold I have is good on the solid parts, but the accordion piece is ripped.
Also, the piece seems very tight on both sides.? I haven't tried to muscle it off yet.
I'm going to give it a shot so I can get accurate measurements.

I've searched online to see if I can find dimensions for the part.? No luck.

Has anybody personally done any exhaust manifold repairs on a 1993?


Re: Moderators?

 

Well¡­since I haven¡¯t sold it yet, it seems to be a white elephant.

456000 miles stops people from considering it. Typical conversation, and lots have enquired, starts with how many miles and then I'll talk to my wife then crickets!

Cheers, jc


Re: Stereo - how to wire

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Having just wired up a new stereo, some of this is fresh in my mind. ?A few points:

1. most modern radios have two power inputs (colored Red and Yellow). ?Red is usually supposed to be switched, and Yellow is "always on". ? I assumed that the amperage draw would mostly be on the Red wire, with the Yellow only being used for keeping the memory alive. ?However, with my newest radio install, I noticed the yellow wire is thicker than the red, which could suggest the opposite. ? In my installation, I have wired Yellow to the starting battery and Red to the House battery, but this may not be doing what I assume.

2. As you've discovered, simply having a switch in the circuit doesn't do what you want, as it ends up connecting the two batteries. ? You need a relay. ?
/g/eurovanupdate/message/161861?is an old post that shows how, but I'll include it here again.

(Note: as Duane points out, not sure if your 93 has this Accessory circuit or not?)

Here's how I wired in a custom toggle switch and relay which switches the radio into three states:
- Always On (house battery)
- On with Accessories (house battery)
- Always Off

Parts:
* A 12V relay?
* a 3 position switch (On, Off, On)
* a fuse (likely 10A to 30A, depending on your radio)
* some wire (the trigger wire can be small, but use 14 gauge or thicker wire for the red lines
* wire connectors & heat shrink tubing or electrical tape

1. First, find the nearest source of house battery 12V+. ?If you go up behind the fusebox, it's relatively easy to push a wire through the firewall and connect it to the relay in the engine compartment.

2. Add a fuse

3. Wire it up as shown in this diagram. ??
Note: switches and relays may have different?wiring diagrams, so double check your work.


PastedGraphic-5.png



On May 28, 2024, at 6:01 PM, Droppin bombs via groups.io <duckdive@...> wrote:

I want to properly wire the following:

- Sony - Head unit stereo
- (4) Sony speakers, powered via head unit (standard speaker wires)
- Amp & sub (always connected to house battery power, amp/sub located under jump seat behind driver seat)
- AC inverter connected to house (mainly for basic charging & use of phone/laptop)
- House battery (under driver seat)
- Main/starting battery
- Retain clock/memory/settings on head unit stereo when vehicle off
- Prefer the ignition key position to still turn on radio
- Rocker switch to allow music with stereo/amp/sub powered from house battery while keeping main/starting battery isolated from significant drain

I attempted this in the past, but I don't think I had an isolator on the main/starting battery.? When I turned on the rocker switch on the dash and powering the stereo/amp/sub for extended periods while camping, I think I was allowing the House battery to drain... but ALSO then it would level with the Main/Starting battery (discharging it in the process).? At least I think that is what has been happening.

Here is a crude diagram.?

Would anybody experienced in this agree that an isolator (as indicated in red) would address the Main/Starting staying "isolated" (at least in terms of the amp/sub)??
Does the charge to the house have an isolator?

But, I also wonder that if I don't change wire #7 from main, then the (4) speakers connected to the stereo will also be pulling power from the Main/Starting battery.

On some trips, I just make a point to start the EV. But sometimes I forget for a bit while I'm rocking out for hours... and the main/starting battery drains. Not ideal as it is not really meant to do that.

<dummyfile.0.part>



Re: Stereo - how to wire

 

On Tue, May 28, 2024 at 08:01 PM, Droppin bombs wrote:
Prefer the ignition key position to still turn on radio
I think you have a 93EV, so that's what I'm basing my response on.? On the later models, and probably yours, turning the key on turns on the radio.? Turning the key back off leaves the radio on until the key is removed from the ignition.? If that's true, then you don't need any other wiring or the rocker switch to isolate as you want to.? Just make sure the amp/sub are powered by the house battery and that the battery cu tout relay under the seat is working.
--
Duane
05HD Rialta
227K Miles