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Re: Stereo - how to wire


 

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Having just wired up a new stereo, some of this is fresh in my mind. ?A few points:

1. most modern radios have two power inputs (colored Red and Yellow). ?Red is usually supposed to be switched, and Yellow is "always on". ? I assumed that the amperage draw would mostly be on the Red wire, with the Yellow only being used for keeping the memory alive. ?However, with my newest radio install, I noticed the yellow wire is thicker than the red, which could suggest the opposite. ? In my installation, I have wired Yellow to the starting battery and Red to the House battery, but this may not be doing what I assume.

2. As you've discovered, simply having a switch in the circuit doesn't do what you want, as it ends up connecting the two batteries. ? You need a relay. ?
/g/eurovanupdate/message/161861?is an old post that shows how, but I'll include it here again.

(Note: as Duane points out, not sure if your 93 has this Accessory circuit or not?)

Here's how I wired in a custom toggle switch and relay which switches the radio into three states:
- Always On (house battery)
- On with Accessories (house battery)
- Always Off

Parts:
* A 12V relay?
* a 3 position switch (On, Off, On)
* a fuse (likely 10A to 30A, depending on your radio)
* some wire (the trigger wire can be small, but use 14 gauge or thicker wire for the red lines
* wire connectors & heat shrink tubing or electrical tape

1. First, find the nearest source of house battery 12V+. ?If you go up behind the fusebox, it's relatively easy to push a wire through the firewall and connect it to the relay in the engine compartment.

2. Add a fuse

3. Wire it up as shown in this diagram. ??
Note: switches and relays may have different?wiring diagrams, so double check your work.


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On May 28, 2024, at 6:01 PM, Droppin bombs via groups.io <duckdive@...> wrote:

I want to properly wire the following:

- Sony - Head unit stereo
- (4) Sony speakers, powered via head unit (standard speaker wires)
- Amp & sub (always connected to house battery power, amp/sub located under jump seat behind driver seat)
- AC inverter connected to house (mainly for basic charging & use of phone/laptop)
- House battery (under driver seat)
- Main/starting battery
- Retain clock/memory/settings on head unit stereo when vehicle off
- Prefer the ignition key position to still turn on radio
- Rocker switch to allow music with stereo/amp/sub powered from house battery while keeping main/starting battery isolated from significant drain

I attempted this in the past, but I don't think I had an isolator on the main/starting battery.? When I turned on the rocker switch on the dash and powering the stereo/amp/sub for extended periods while camping, I think I was allowing the House battery to drain... but ALSO then it would level with the Main/Starting battery (discharging it in the process).? At least I think that is what has been happening.

Here is a crude diagram.?

Would anybody experienced in this agree that an isolator (as indicated in red) would address the Main/Starting staying "isolated" (at least in terms of the amp/sub)??
Does the charge to the house have an isolator?

But, I also wonder that if I don't change wire #7 from main, then the (4) speakers connected to the stereo will also be pulling power from the Main/Starting battery.

On some trips, I just make a point to start the EV. But sometimes I forget for a bit while I'm rocking out for hours... and the main/starting battery drains. Not ideal as it is not really meant to do that.

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