99 Eurovan coolant hose suggestions
Hello all,
My 99 is getting to where coolant hoses are dropping like flies.? I fix one thing and the leaks start somewhere else.? This is a VR6 AES engine.? I replaced all of the engine plastic housings, o-rings , and crack pipe.? The o rings were just falling apart.? Then the hose that runs from the bottom of the coolant ball down over the fuel lines and down to the lower hose coming out of the radiator started leaking where it rubbed on the incoming fuel lines and developed a hole.? I patched that to get by.? Now the upper radiator hose is beginning to leak where a plastic clip goes around the hose to space it out from the other hoses.? I guess after 21 years and 240K miles, hoses deserve to be replaced.
My problem is that most are not available (Or I cannot source them!), and there are so many hoses in there!!? You can seem to readily get the upper and lower radiator hose, the one assembly that comes out of the head and has the T that runs a small line to the throttle body, but everything else I am having trouble.
Are we down to taking hoses to FLAPS one at a time and finding something similar?? Is there a list floating around out there somewhere?? I have seen some compiled lists for the 5 cyl engine, but I think that those do not help us VR6 pilots.? I have been putting this off for, well, probably a decade at least, LOL !
Thanks in advance.
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Re: It Makes Me Sick To Bring This Up... Eurovan Tires
I ended up going with the Kumho Crugen 235/60 r16 104t load rating and had them installed Saturday.? We'll see how it works out.? Even though they have a much more chunky tread pattern vs the Falken Pro G4 tires I had on previously, I have not been able to detect any additional road noise around town or on the highway.? Handling is like night and day vs any of the?tires I've run previously.? The van seems far more sure footed which I'm guessing has something to do with the 104 load rating and strength of the sidewall.? They do seem a bit more firm over small bumps however.? That's a trade off I think I'll be happy to live with but time will tell.??
It will be interesting to see how this all works out with the van loaded up with gear.? We're heading from CO to CA through the southwest desert for two?weeks starting Saturday.? Should be ample time to see how these perform.??? Thanks everyone for the input as I was making this decision.
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 10:46 AM Bernie Johnsen via <bernadou.johnsen= [email protected]> wrote: Thanks for the tire survey link!? That sorta seals the deal on sizing for me too.? Seems like 235/60 r16 will work well on my lifted and leveled EVC.? Gives me lots of choices when considering the other sizes that will also fit.??
?
On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 10:37 AM Droppin bombs via <duckdive= [email protected]> wrote: My tires survey is a bit old now... but still relevant.
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I have tried the rubber mallet, looked for the adjusting screw, one may be covered with undercoat, the other looks like a replacement and seems to have a quarter circle with a slider control. I also checked the bell of both horns as the squirrels here like to stash pine cones everywhere but those are clear. I may have to buy new horns after all.?
Noel
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If the other ideas don't work, I bought this horn from Amazon to replace one of the two non- working ones in my 95 EVC: FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster LOW Note Horn ?
¡other drivers not noticing my finger! ; )
1996 Eurovan Camper by Winnebago.?
Horn is not working. I can hear relay #53 at 11 click when horn button is pushed. I tried the other #53 relay in the same plug but it made no difference.
Plug ends at both horns appear ok and intact. They sure are placed in the stupidest position for catching rain, mud and snow BTW.?
Fuse #13 is ok.
I don¡¯t know if they ever worked, never needed it ?Van passed a pre-purchase inspection at a garage 3 years ago but the horn wasn¡¯t noted as an issue. I had no need to try it until last week.
I would appreciate any trouble shooting ideas before I go to buy new horns.?
?
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I have had similar issues with other VW horns. Everything upto the horn was 12V but the horn no tones.? I put my hand on the horn and could feel a thunk of a spring or something trying to move. A ?few taps with rubber mallet and it started working.
Worth a try?
¡other drivers not noticing my finger! ; )
1996 Eurovan Camper by Winnebago.?
Horn is not working. I can hear relay #53 at 11 click when horn button is pushed. I tried the other #53 relay in the same plug but it made no difference.
Plug ends at both horns appear ok and intact. They sure are placed in the stupidest position for catching rain, mud and snow BTW.?
Fuse #13 is ok.
I don¡¯t know if they ever worked, never needed it ?Van passed a pre-purchase inspection at a garage 3 years ago but the horn wasn¡¯t noted as an issue. I had no need to try it until last week.
I would appreciate any trouble shooting ideas before I go to buy new horns.?
?
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Might need to adjust the tone screws on the horns. if they sit for extended periods they can get corroded and a slight turn can reset the connection. easy check.
¡other drivers not noticing my finger! ; )
1996 Eurovan Camper by Winnebago.?
Horn is not working. I can hear relay #53 at 11 click when horn button is pushed. I tried the other #53 relay in the same plug but it made no difference.
Plug ends at both horns appear ok and intact. They sure are placed in the stupidest position for catching rain, mud and snow BTW.?
Fuse #13 is ok.
I don¡¯t know if they ever worked, never needed it ?Van passed a pre-purchase inspection at a garage 3 years ago but the horn wasn¡¯t noted as an issue. I had no need to try it until last week.
I would appreciate any trouble shooting ideas before I go to buy new horns.?
?
-- ~~~~~
Big Shots
3201 Corte Malpaso, Unit 302
Camarillo, CA 93012
805-484-9111
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¡other drivers not noticing my finger! ; )
1996 Eurovan Camper by Winnebago.?
Horn is not working. I can hear relay #53 at 11 click when horn button is pushed. I tried the other #53 relay in the same plug but it made no difference.
Plug ends at both horns appear ok and intact. They sure are placed in the stupidest position for catching rain, mud and snow BTW.?
Fuse #13 is ok.
I don¡¯t know if they ever worked, never needed it ?Van passed a pre-purchase inspection at a garage 3 years ago but the horn wasn¡¯t noted as an issue. I had no need to try it until last week.
I would appreciate any trouble shooting ideas before I go to buy new horns.?
?
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Re: Relay location for Secondary Air Injection? - 2001 MV
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Re: Relay location for Secondary Air Injection? - 2001 MV
On Wed, Sep 29, 2021 at 01:53 PM, willgreer wrote:
I'm guessing that it's the SAI RELAY circled in red below.
That should be it.? It's centered over the panel below it. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 212K Miles
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Relay location for Secondary Air Injection? - 2001 MV
Does anyone know where the RELAY is located for the SECONDARY AIR INJECTION on a 2001 MV?? All the documentation I've found doesn't reflect what my relay panel looks like (see photo below of RELAY panel above the main fuse panel behind and to the left of the knee bolster).? I'm guessing that it's the SAI RELAY circled in red below... THANKS!? Tom 
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Hi - I have your list and try to take notes myself anytime shops are recommended. Good info to have in hand on the road.?
Still, I do my own work if at all possible, which is 95% of the time.? I have had it aligned twice over the years since raising the torsion bars, most recently in July at a dealer.? They said the front was now dialed in but the rear needed some adjustment that they could not do because of a "missing" adjuster.? I argued that they could in fact and that's why I went to a dealer, but they held firm that they could not adjust anything on the rear.? Made me think I might start trying to align it myself too.?
No rocking in the steering.? It drives perfectly, which is one reason I hate to change anything right now, but I have decided I'll do the bearing(s) here in my shop and inspect/wiggle the axles and maybe disassemble to inspect.? I have one new outside CV now and one inside boot kit so I might just travel? with those in hand if they pass inspection.?
I did put my hand on the two front hubs the other day on the road, Duane.? No difference in heat, both sides hot, not quite burning hot.? ?Made me think that an IR thermo should be in my kit?? ?Thanks for the input guys.? Grateful to be able to talk it through, especially when I was on the road.
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On Tue, Sep 28, 2021 at 03:51 AM, Steve wrote:
On the other hand, I don't think the bearings need changing yet.
One indication that a bearing is going bad is that it will run hotter than the others.? There's not an exact temp to look for, but an IR temp gauge should show all 4 within ~20¡ãF range.? I just aim it at the center of the hub. -- Duane 05HD Rialta 212K Miles
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Good luck.? Only a couple of confirmed shops in my list that work on EVs in NM.
I started this repair shop locator about 10 years ago.? Haven't maintained it much.? I was on a road trip when I broke down, and nobody would work on the EV.? All the online VW shop locators were for Vanagons and Buses.... so I created this.
I think you'll be fine for a while.? Just don't get off the beaten path/road/mobile phone coverage path on the rest of your trip.
Did you ever do an alignment after your torsion bars?? How is your camber?? Positive?? A bit of rocking in your steering?
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I just drove back to New Mexico from California.? As I left the coast and wound through a canyon towards the valley,? ?it made the noise reliably on acceleration to the right while climbing and was very clear, a bit concerning.? ?Then I got on the interstate and heard no more.? After driving a couple days, I can't get it to make the noise at all now no matter how hard I try.? ?It seems that only when I park for days to a week and then drive, I get it.? Makes me think that the (insufficient) grease is settling then redistributing with movement and heat.??
I'm undecided.? ? ?1500 miles after it started, it's gotten better, not worse.? ?Really, the CV seems easy enough to do without special tools.? ? ?It's more the bearings that I'd hate to do in the field.? ?I suppose the safe thing is to do the bearings and inspect and re-grease the CVs.
On the other hand, I don't think the bearings need changing yet.? I think really it's one CV joint is bad or needs grease.? ?Hmm...
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Yeah quite a price difference on that year VS my 95.? ?I've been following this thread since mine has almost the exact same symptoms at the moment but it is super faint.? So faint that my mechanic can't detect it. I'm just going to keep driving it until it is louder so we can figure out if it is a bearing or CV joint.?
I just had the driver's side half shaft replaced about 20k miles ago so I'll be bummed if it is the CV joint failing so quickly.
2 Bernie My EV is a 2002.? You are probably seeing prices for pre 2001.? Different parts.??The half axles are $420 each at Europarts and not offered at Bus depot. I do buy from those sources (and FCP Euro)? and especially appreciate the Busdepot owner's input on various forums.? I'm gonna just buy the Joints themselves, which everybody has.? ?Seems like replacing the actual axle is expensive and unnecessary. Basically, I can earn >$300 by rebuilding the axle myself with fresh joints.? AND I will know I have the correct length, which seems to be an issue as much as the splines.? Though I'm sure that buying from these sources? I will get the right part either way.?
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On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 04:13 PM, mike.mcauliffe@... wrote:
use the tool to remove the bearing from the steering knuckle where it is installed and to do this all on the van.? Based on your diagnosis, remove cv axle assembly from offending side (hope it is only one), remove the wheel hub, take out snap ring that holds in wheel bearing in steering knuckle, and then remove wheel bearing.?
thanks. That's what I'm gonna do.
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On Fri, Sep 24, 2021 at 09:34 AM, Droppin bombs wrote:
Been following a bit.? The noise on turns... that sounds like CV to me.
Have you lifted or adjusted torsions?? How is the rest of your suspension?
I ask because after I did a torsion bar lift (and spacers in back) I noticed CV noise (ultimately a failure... not sure if coincidence or not).
Doing CVs is pretty easy.? I don't see why you would not do them if you don't know the status.? I'd try that first and then consider bearings.
Does the noise seem to only come from one side... or both?? Maybe I missed that.
I cranked up the torsion bars a bit, maybe 1" in 2017.? Has been running fine with the lift so I doubt it was far enough out of the original range to affect it much, but now, at 170 k, it's probably just time to do them.? I see that it's not super hard to pull the axles.? We'll see how hard it is to swap the actual CV joints off and on the shaft. I do have the Bentley for that section.? I got the CD years ago? but need to open up and print each page to PDF on my old XP machine at home and have not done but 1/3. so far.?? Traveling more, I have now sorted out that the noise is when accelerating uphill while turning right.? Hmmm would that be the left outer?? It does rumble a bit on dips and bumps when it throws the weight of the vehicle a certain way.? ? ?I'm now convinced that it's the CV.? Too specific for bearings, I figure.? ?I did order a set of bearings already so will probably do them also.?
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2 Bernie My EV is a 2002.? You are probably seeing prices for pre 2001.? Different parts.??The half axles are $420 each at Europarts and not offered at Bus depot. I do buy from those sources (and FCP Euro)? and especially appreciate the Busdepot owner's input on various forums.? I'm gonna just buy the Joints themselves, which everybody has.? ?Seems like replacing the actual axle is expensive and unnecessary. Basically, I can earn >$300 by rebuilding the axle myself with fresh joints.? AND I will know I have the correct length, which seems to be an issue as much as the splines.? Though I'm sure that buying from these sources? I will get the right part either way.?
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Steve, as a follow up (another), the noise does seem to point to wheel bearings since you talk about the exit ramps and your perception of additional noise.? This dialog piques my interest because of two things-? why and how do you hear the sounds on the ramps and not otherwise?? You should hear this in a parking lot as well, but you may need a wall to reflect the sound.? Go to a big parking lot and turn hard and as fast as you can, both ways.? See if you can find a parking lot where there is a wall nearby.? If you hear noise, lift the wheel and roll it.? Listen for sounds, move the wheel and look for abnormal deflection.? ?
HTH,? this is all I am gonna say about this.? Fix this and let us know what you figure out.
Thanks,
Mike
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Steve, as a follow up, i grabbed a parts diagram and attached as a powerpoint file.? Re wheel bearing replacement, Duane's advice seems to be the best advice for the least work.? He is advocating to use the tool to remove the bearing from the steering knuckle where it is installed and to do this all on the van.? Based on your diagnosis, remove cv axle assembly from offending side (hope it is only one), remove the wheel hub, take out snap ring that holds in wheel bearing in steering knuckle, and then remove wheel bearing.? If the cv axle assembly is the worn component, you just replace it.? My advice to take to a shop should be considered to be secondary (if you are mechanically inclined).? Generally, if I were to remove the steering knuckle, I am looking at a lot more work and a front end alignment afterward.? Work equals $ to me.??
So, HTH.? My advice about the differential earlier is not relevant since the cv axle assemblies are attached to the inner drive shaft outputs with bolts and are easily removed.
Duane, if I have not portrayed this correctly, please feel free to correct.
v/r,
Mike
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Noel
Craig
Duane